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No A/C in the D

5K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  Tin Foil Hat 
#1 ·
Crap!! I drove for 2 hours to get home last night and it was blowing cold the whole time. Get out there this morning and it won't cool. The compressor is coming on, I have good freon levels, and the switch is working fine but its blowing warm. Any help? Now I have no heat or A/C, which sucks!!
 
#2 ·
Is the proper air flow coming out of the proper vents? Could the vacuum controls not be working on the doors? Could the blend door be stuck?
 
#4 ·
x3.

Check that all your mode and temperature controls work correctly?

edit: do you have rear A/C? does it work correctly?
 
#6 ·
Pipes are both hot and the rear A/C is warm as well. The heat has been out for 2 years but it doesn't really get cold enough here to worry about it. The A/C however is a must have.
 
#7 ·
Sounds like you need to charge it up with dye in it and see how long it lasts. Then look with a UV light and glasses to see if you can find the leak. I was just at autozone and they have cans with the dye in them. Watch out as you can get the dye on everything and not know it if you don't look with the light and the glasses.
 
#8 ·
hm, compressor runs, but both lines at the compressor are hot?

Are both lines (A/C, not heater) hot at the firewall?

Is the compressor cycling on and off fairly often (like every ten seconds or so) or does it keep running?

?tom
 
#9 ·
tomk said:
hm, compressor runs, but both lines at the compressor are hot?

Are both lines (A/C, not heater) hot at the firewall?

Is the compressor cycling on and off fairly often (like every ten seconds or so) or does it keep running?

?tom
yeah, the compressor turns on and stays on with the dash switch and the aluminum lines are both hot instead of 1 hot and 1 cold. There's a connector right by the lines and, if it's unhooked, the compressor turns off. If the freon was low the compressor wouldn't run right?
 
#10 ·
Well, the compressor should kick out if there's low pressure in the suction line, which ought to be what happens if you're low on freon.

On the other hand, if the discharge pressure is high, you should hit the high-side cutout or blow a pile of freon and dye out (your system probably came with dye from the factory.)

So I don't get how the compressor stays running with all the lines being hot, unless there are multiple things wrong. I suppose the expansion valve could be stuck wide open, but that should produce at least some temperature difference in the two A/C lines at the firewall.
 
#11 ·
Until the evaporator ices solid. It'd cool for a little and then there would be no airflow from the vents and the blower would sound funny.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Can anyone tell me where the 99 Durango suffers from ac leaks the most? Locations of leaks. I have a leak I can't find doing it at home cause I don't have the money for the shop. Most common leak locations. 1 Condensor, Evap Lines, Ac compressor I ran dye nothing can be seen.
I have replaced the expansion valve on the front side mainline. I have put O rings on all lines. The only thing Is I do not own a sniffer. Does anyone know where I can pick up a cheap but good working sniffer for at home?


I want to share that my ac never worked Since we bought the vehicle in 2005 It had like 30 miles on it. It now has 150k on it. I just dump freon in it when I can. Works for few days then stops.
Typically what happens is It blows cold very well.
Then Front slowly starts getting warmer.
Back still blowing very cold. After a few days, It just stops.
Blowing cold air. I know it's a leak, the compressor runs when freon is in it. When freon gets low Compressor starts kicking on and off a lot. Or not at all. It's very hot and humid where I live in Louisiana can anyone help? Should I move this post?
 
#14 ·
You should have started you own post. With all the money and time you have spent on this since 2005 (I doubt you only put 30 miles on it) you could have paid someone to fix it and you wouldn't have suffered for 16 years. The sniffer won't help you much since these lines run everywhere and you can't get to a lot of them. The UV dye is better to use which is why all mechanics use it. You didn't say if you have looked to the front seal on the compressor or to the rear condenser and its lines. But really, why not let a pro fix this? It will be money well spent as long as they don't guess with your money. If you never use a mechanic then you will not, unfortunately, have found one that you feel you can trust.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I think you mis-read my post I picked it up in 2005 used car lot. With 30 miles on it. Also I am living on an 800 dollar budget a month. There is no way I am bringing it to a shop. They will rip my eyes out. I used to work at one.
Now that errors in my sentences have been fixed. Maybe you can not be a D-bag about it?
 
#16 ·
Then you are in the wrong car ownership business, my friend. Just run it with 440 air like we did as teenagers before every car had A/C. If it REALLY only had 30 miles on it in 2005 then I think you know why it was there. Again, too bad you couldn't have spent money on it in the last 16 yrs and had it fixed a long time ago.
 
#18 ·
Post it in Durango 1st Gen "Discussions" as this isn't considered an accessory issue. Good luck, I doubt that anyone can be very specific on this vague issue.
 
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