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Yeah, I focused on trans fluid as the transfer case was mentioned earlier but like you said could be engine oil. On my 5.7 RT challenger if the valve covers leak I get oil mostly on the exhaust manifolds and you can smell it because it tends to collect at the rear and bottom corner of the heads. I have had a rolled valve cover gasket and things do get smokey. Also the intake bolts (at least on the manual challengers, never had a problem with my 2013 JGC) seem to back out over time to the point that the intake starts leaking (no codes ever pop up). Had that happen on my RT with only ~13k miles on the engine. So those are the two spots I would check first. A cracked PCV tube can weep out oil but never heard of that being a problem on the 5.7. Other than that could be a cam/crank seal so if there is a trans inspection plate and you can see oil slung all over the TC and bell housing that would probably be the problem.
I have a ‘12 SRT charger recently had a bad vacuum leak through the intake I wonder if those bolts backed off. How’d you find out yours had? Did the car shut down or something happen?
 

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2017 AWD durango GT 3.6
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I have a ‘12 SRT charger recently had a bad vacuum leak through the intake I wonder if those bolts backed off. How’d you find out yours had? Did the car shut down or something happen?
I saw staining around the ports which made me check the bolts for proper torque. Took about 2 1/2 turns to hit the correct torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yeah, I focused on trans fluid as the transfer case was mentioned earlier but like you said could be engine oil. On my 5.7 RT challenger if the valve covers leak I get oil mostly on the exhaust manifolds and you can smell it because it tends to collect at the rear and bottom corner of the heads. I have had a rolled valve cover gasket and things do get smokey. Also the intake bolts (at least on the manual challengers, never had a problem with my 2013 JGC) seem to back out over time to the point that the intake starts leaking (no codes ever pop up). Had that happen on my RT with only ~13k miles on the engine. So those are the two spots I would check first. A cracked PCV tube can weep out oil but never heard of that being a problem on the 5.7. Other than that could be a cam/crank seal so if there is a trans inspection plate and you can see oil slung all over the TC and bell housing that would probably be the problem.
Just heard it is the oil pan gasket. Wanted to follow up. THANK YOU.
According chiltons online site repair estimates, see the images below, should take about 0.5-0.7 hours on a 5.7 AWD.

View attachment 122097

View attachment 122098
All 3 garages that I called previously said it's a 6 to 8 hour job as they need to drop the engine....any thoughts on that?
That makes sense...it must be leaking down the trans bellhousing.
I'd have your mechanic check the valve cover gaskets too...as they typically leak with that age on them.
Thank you so much for your answer. He said about 6 hours as well.
 

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Well considering these are general shops and not dealerships (generally charge more per hour) that have the proper tools, like the bracket used to lift and support the engine once the intake is removed, 6-8 is on the high side but not terribly unreasonable. If you go to the link I posted it give the entire procedure which basically involves raising the engine and supporting it while dropping most of the front suspension and differential. On AWDs the oil pan is pretty much blocked by the front differential. Dropping the pan to a DIYer like me would probably take most of my weekend to do, but then again I don't have a chassis lift to make the job go by quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Are you sure that is the source of the leak and that its not leaking from above and running down or hitting there? Take a mirror and check all around to make sure.
Oil from the where the trans bolts up to the rear of the engine typically would be the rear engine main seal....and it looks like engine oil from the picture and not transmission fluid..but sometimes hard to tell if the oil has mixed with dirt.
It is the oil pan gasket that needs to be replaced. I appreciate your response!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well considering these are general shops and not dealerships (generally charge more per hour) that have the proper tools, like the bracket used to lift and support the engine once the intake is removed, 6-8 is on the high side but not terribly unreasonable. If you go to the link I posted it give the entire procedure which basically involves raising the engine and supporting it while dropping most of the front suspension and differential. On AWDs the oil pan is pretty much blocked by the front differential. Dropping the pan to a DIYer like me would probably take most of my weekend to do, but then again I don't have a chassis lift to make the job go by quicker.
I talked to my mechanic earlier and he said he will get his 2 guys on it and he charges 75.00 per hour. He said more than likely 6 hours will get it done. So I am happy with that. I had another garage return my call earlier and they said it's a tough job to do. So I am happy it will get fixed and not at 150.00 an hour like a dealership would charge. ✅️✅️✅️❤
 
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