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Discussion Starter #21
I had to send my whipple in for warranty work as well. Are you talking about the pulley? I'm not completely technically versed.

My whipple had to have it's pulley replaced, and they rebuilt it as well - "just in case."
Same. That's kind of crazy. There was a wobble front to back and up and down that manifested itself on the pulley - the root of it was the shaft behind the pulley that runs to the back gear case. It was minor and barely visible, but add lots of rpms to it and it spells trouble. Eventually it would have also cause bearing failure. I did take some videos of it all for whipple to review. If you touched your finger nail to the smooth face of the pulley at idle, you could feel your finger fluttering from the wobble. When you do that now, post repair, it's smooth and true. They rebuilt it, new shaft, new bearings.

Our units only being built likely a month apart must have suffered from a batch of bad shafts or something.



2016 Dodge Durango RT - Whipple SC - Corsa Exhaust - 505AWHP
 

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Thank you for that information, that's huge for me. Same problem along with a slight delayed valve close on my whipple that was creating an approximate 1-2 tenths of a delay going into boost.
 

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Any updates from either of you guys? I plan on getting a whipple for my 2017 RT when the warranty is up.
You have a ways to go my friend...but I like how you do your homework. That would be a fun mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Any updates from either of you guys? I plan on getting a whipple for my 2017 RT when the warranty is up.
Yes indeed!

Whipple did rebuild my input shaft. It runs true now and everything on the truck is working as I would expect. Not sure what happened to begin with but the D hauls butt. I have about 3200 miles on it since the rebuild.

I still need to hit the track and get some numbers other than dyno but it's a blast to drive. Just ticked 17k on the odometer, 5-6k have been super charged.

I have an AWD DD but purchased a Taser module which allows me to force RWD only...that has made things a lot more entertaining. Tires will scream on demand under straight power in 1 & 2 (no down shift required in 2nd, just punch it at 35mph in manual mode in 2nd and they will break and lay a 20ft patch). For a heavy SUV it peels out nicely...my wife hates that part. :). Highly recommend the Tazer for shenanigans, however you cannot enable sport mode (which is needed for good WOT shifts) when in force RWD mode, but you can enable Sport first and then enable RWD force and you're good to go until you shut it off. It can all be done on the fly.

Since install I've been changing oil (Penn Ultra Platinum) every 3000 and have been sending oil in for lab analysis (Blackstone Labs). I just got the second change done yesterday and need to send the oil sample in and see where my wear levels are at.

Otherwise life is good, I still would like to lower a hair, slap on brembos and 22's, but there are other demands for $ elsewhere right now, so it will wait.
 

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Yes indeed!

Whipple did rebuild my input shaft. It runs true now and everything on the truck is working as I would expect. Not sure what happened to begin with but the D hauls butt. I have about 3200 miles on it since the rebuild.

I still need to hit the track and get some numbers other than dyno but it's a blast to drive. Just ticked 17k on the odometer, 5-6k have been super charged.

I have an AWD DD but purchased a Taser module which allows me to force RWD only...that has made things a lot more entertaining. Tires will scream on demand under straight power in 1 & 2 (no down shift required in 2nd, just punch it at 35mph in manual mode in 2nd and they will break and lay a 20ft patch). For a heavy SUV it peels out nicely...my wife hates that part. :). Highly recommend the Tazer for shenanigans, however you cannot enable sport mode (which is needed for good WOT shifts) when in force RWD mode, but you can enable Sport first and then enable RWD force and you're good to go until you shut it off. It can all be done on the fly.

Since install I've been changing oil (Penn Ultra Platinum) every 3000 and have been sending oil in for lab analysis (Blackstone Labs). I just got the second change done yesterday and need to send the oil sample in and see where my wear levels are at.

Otherwise life is good, I still would like to lower a hair, slap on brembos and 22's, but there are other demands for $ elsewhere right now, so it will wait.
So it seems you have a good background on SC applications. We plan on towing would it be safe to do the whipple still? I would hope we have another vehicle by then and this can be my toy but we will be getting a camper soon. Prob around the 6000lb range.

Also twoduckdad I love doing research and making it perfect. I have done cheap half assed mods in the past and will never do that again. You end up spending twice as much when you cheap out and cut corners.


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Discussion Starter #27
So it seems you have a good background on SC applications. We plan on towing would it be safe to do the whipple still? I would hope we have another vehicle by then and this can be my toy but we will be getting a camper soon. Prob around the 6000lb range.

Also twoduckdad I love doing research and making it perfect. I have done cheap half assed mods in the past and will never do that again. You end up spending twice as much when you cheap out and cut corners.


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The whipple will help with low end torque and towing (and using more fuel). The mileage hit isn't that bad. Many are seeing 16city 23hwy with the stock hemi (as did I for my first stock 10k miles). I see 15 city and 20hwy now... towing will dramatically impact that, but I can definitely feel when I tip into the throttle and the whipple bypass valve closes at low rpm. The truck has dramatic low end torque, similar to the 6.4L hemi, if you've ever driven a vehicle that has one.

The trans temps are something to keep your eye on. These things tend to run hot even stock when not towing. Mind have been doing ok, but in 90 degrees I see 195-198 commonly. If I romp on it and do a 0-100 pull I will see the temp spike to 205ish, then it will come back down once I drive nice... for what it's worth the trans temp gauge range is at its midpoint at 200 degrees. I hear people talk about seeing 215 commonly, and have seen some post picture of their gauge reading in the 270's! (Yikes). Anyways, something to watch.

I haven't done much towing other than hauling a trailer with a wall behind snow blower around, but again specifically the whipple with its low end boost will only help and the load leveling rears on the RT are nice. Plenty of guys towing 6000lb campers stock all day.

Good luck!


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Thanks, so add trans cooler to the list lol.

I'm seeing 15-16 on short city trips. I actually got 25-26 highway in the mountains. Was quite surprised.

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks, so add trans cooler to the list lol.

I'm seeing 15-16 on short city trips. I actually got 25-26 highway in the mountains. Was quite surprised.

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An add-on trans cooler unfortunately may not solve the issue, here's why as I understand it:

The existing transcooler that comes stock has a valving system that ties into the stock engine radiator frame. The engine cooler and transcooler share the same cooling chassis, but separate liquid systems. The engine radiator is actually used to heat the transmission fluid (and subsequently the trans) on purpose so the transmission reaches operating temp faster. All of that adds complexity and means that the radiator actually heat soaks the trans cooler. You can put a cooler in, but those that have done so have generally not seen any improvement in cooling what so ever, since ultimately you are fighting the engine coolant system/thermostat. I put a 180 degree thermostat in my truck versus stock 203 degree, which may be why my trans stays a bit cooler than others I've read about on here...which sounds crazy until you understand the relationship of the two and shared radiator chassis.



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An add-on trans cooler unfortunately may not solve the issue, here's why as I understand it:

The existing transcooler that comes stock has a valving system that ties into the stock engine radiator frame. The engine cooler and transcooler share the same cooling chassis, but separate liquid systems. The engine radiator is actually used to heat the transmission fluid (and subsequently the trans) on purpose so the transmission reaches operating temp faster. All of that adds complexity and means that the radiator actually heat soaks the trans cooler. You can put a cooler in, but those that have done so have generally not seen any improvement in cooling what so ever, since ultimately you are fighting the engine coolant system/thermostat. I put a 180 degree thermostat in my truck versus stock 203 degree, which may be why my trans stays a bit cooler than others I've read about on here...which sounds crazy until you understand the relationship of the two and shared radiator chassis.



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Well that sucks. I'll have to do more research on it.


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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Have any of you SC guys dragged a SRT charger or challenger?


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I owned a blue 2012 Challenger. Whipple'd DD is significantly quicker than the stock SRT Challenger, best I ran with my gen3 gtech meter on the Challenger stock was 13.1 at 108. I put a procharger on the Challenger about 2k miles before I sold it...with the procharger it's a toss up. IF you could finesse the Challenger throttle just right and keep the wheels planted it might beat the D. Best I ever got with the procharger on my gtech was 12.1 @ 122. The D's AWD and weight means it's all business. The gtech has the Whipple'd DD at 11.8 @ 118. AWD launch for the win. I'll take the DD down to the local strip this fall and get a real slip. The gtech is good for ball park only.

The DD is actually the quickest vehicle I've ever owned from a stop. I had a 600hp 2001 Ford Lightning too, and it ripped, but launch would make or brake the race. The pro charged Challenger was a beast from a roll though and pulled a littler harder on the highway, not much though. For 5500lbs loaded the DD really motivates with the Whipple.

DD is always the same no matter what with AWD.

It's all just banter until I get a video and a slip. So take it for what it is.

There's a guy with a new M4 and another with an S6 on my route to work. Those guys stopped trying after a couple weeks of beat downs.


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Nice, I'm going to have a few things more then just the whipple by then. Going to have powered heads and cam with long tube headers and corsa. So it may scoot a little better.

I have tossed around the idea of building an engine and just swapping when I get the whipple.


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Discussion Starter #34
I suspect I'm at the top of where a person should be without going forged, maybe a little beyond. The canned Whipple tune is good for +130-150hp at the wheels. My custom tune did +230ish on 93 octane. Point being the tune is important.

If you have the funds to do it right, by all means. There's a guy local here that out Long Tubes on his Whipple'd SRT GJC and only got like 25 horse out of it. Not sure if that justifies the 2k investment, but what you are talking would be on my list if I had no other bills!

Good luck!


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I suspect I'm at the top of where a person should be without going forged, maybe a little beyond. The canned Whipple tune is good for +130-150hp at the wheels. My custom tune did +230ish on 93 octane. Point being the tune is important.

If you have the funds to do it right, by all means. There's a guy local here that out Long Tubes on his Whipple'd SRT GJC and only got like 25 horse out of it. Not sure if that justifies the 2k investment, but what you are talking would be on my list if I had no other bills!

Good luck!


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It will be a slow build, I'm talking swapping when I hit 75k lol.


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I suspect I'm at the top of where a person should be without going forged, maybe a little beyond. The canned Whipple tune is good for +130

The SRT JGC 6.4L has shorty headers from the factory, so I can see how long tubes would not give much more than 25hp or so without adjusting boost.

But a 230hp increase is INSANE!
 
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