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Lowered the D and got my wheels in....

44K views 45 replies 30 participants last post by  Cristian1311  
#1 ·
#3 ·
Very nice
 
#4 ·
I have 265/40/22 rims and tires.....don't remember if they are 9" or 9.5" rims but I know I didn't go with 10" as I was afraid of clearance issues.

I haven't had any issues so far with rubbing but I'll keep you all posted if I do. My D is AWD and I used the Eibach lowering springs for the JGC and the back really didn't seem to drop much but maybe it will settle more later down the road but the front was probably almost a 1.5 to 2" drop.

I meant to take pics as I did it as I haven't seen anyone do it, but they probably had the same intentions I did but once you get into it you just wanna get it done....back was simple, front.....sucked!!! I disassembled my front pass side first and then tried something a lil different on the drivers.....both worked okay.
 
#6 ·
Looks badass! Feels good, don't it?
I took a ton of video clips when I lowered mine but never got them edited and posted. I think I put up a bunch of pics tho.
Did you get it aligned right away, and did it get within specs? I had rubbing issues up front on mine UNTIL I had aligned. Now I can't hardly get it to rub, when it does it barely brushes it. Front left was just outside of spec, front right was on the edge of specs, and rears were well within.
The back won't settle much. Mine settled in at 0.75" rear drop, that is because of the load leveling shocks. I got some Monroe's, and KYB makes some too, but they are 12mm threads and our leveling shocks are 10mm. When I get mine back from the body shop I am going to work on drilling out the sleeves in the bushings to make them work. We'll see how much drop I get then! Will have to align again too.
 
#7 ·
Right on Brian, look forward to see pics after you install shocks. I took mine straight to the alignment shop and the back came in no issue and the fronts were pretty much like your specs I believe....don't have the sheet in from t of me at the moment. Looks nasty though, I like it.....debating what to do next.....possibly a supercharger. I traded my RAM SRT10 that was supercharged also in on the Durango so the power is night and day! Not a big fan of the tranny on this though and how it shifts and the power output is weak compared to the Ram 5.7's......
 
#19 ·
Funny, I also traded a RAM SRT10 for the D and mine is also Black, 10 was a Silver QC. Nice. My 10 was NA but still big difference in power, had headers, tune, CAI, Magnaflow, and HTS valvebody. However, I really like the D overall. Has way more features than the 10 did, minus a Viper engine of course :)

Nice you went with a little 10 nostalgia with the wheels, looks good on the D.
 
#8 ·
Looks Great
STEVE
 
#14 ·
That's a nice truck if you like that badass wicked mean looking beast!! Sweet sweet looking truck!! Your time and energy to find the right combinations paid off big time!!
 
#17 ·
Your durango looks bad ass. i have a 2014 r/t and was trying to find out if the jgc springs would work and you answered my question. thanks alot. btw the rear may not go down if you have the self leveling rear suspension. i had a 2010 charger r/t daytona with the self leveling rear suspension and had the shop do some modification to that system to lower the rear of the car. anyways your D looks great and it gave me some new ideas for mine.
 
#18 ·
Your truck looks great! Same springs I have and same stance. I'll probably still go with the non-nivomat rear shocks in the near future, I just haven't decided whether to cut the threading on the replacement shocks down to 10MM or have the stock shock bushings drilled out to 12MM

If I cut the threading down on the replacements and go that route I can always put the originals back on if I need to.


Anyway your DD is Badass!!!
 
#23 ·
I'll probably still go with the non-nivomat rear shocks in the near future, I just haven't decided whether to cut the threading on the replacement shocks down to 10MM or have the stock shock bushings drilled out to 12MM

If I cut the threading down on the replacements and go that route I can always put the originals back on if I need
When I get my D back, I am reaming out the sleeve in the bushing and installing non-Nivomat shocks, have the Monroe shocks already. Stay tuned. I STILL haven't got my D back, the shop forgot to order my back wheels so I took them stockers today. Tomorrow they are supposed to put those on & align, detail it, run a check on electrical, polish paint, and replace RR door glass that they scratched! If they get that done, I can do shocks this weekend. Otherwise will be next weekend. Tomorrow is 2 months since my accident! I am SO ready to get my ride back!!!
 
#27 ·
Those are Viper Reps
STEVE
 
#30 ·
Hey, just saw this forum and signed up. I have a 2005 Durango AWD that I have been looking to lower. Your D looks awesome. I'm guessing that lowering my '05 will take about the same amount of work. I have found the lowering springs by Eibach and have researched on lowering the front with the torsion bars. Do you remember about how many turns it took to get it where you want it?

I am debating on putting 260/50-20 or 285/50-20 on it. I'm afraid the 285/50-20 might stick out too far and hit the wheel well at the top when it hits a bump.

I have also heard that by lowering it there is a possibility of the exhaust rubbing on the undercarriage. I have a custom dual exhaust installed with 40 series flowmasters and in order for them to fit they had to be placed side by side standing up instead of flat. Any idea if I will run into issues with that?

I am also going to be using Bilstein shocks. The OE shocks are finally gone at 190,000 miles.
 
#32 ·
The Gen 3's are completely different from yours, there's no torsion bars or leaf springs. All coils.
 
#31 ·
If they charged you for the rear alignment, i'm afraid you got ripped off. If it is a solid rear axle like on my '05 Durango, they have no alignment adjustment which is why it came in with no issues after you made your adjustments. Don't let a shop fool you on doing a 4 wheel alignment when you have a solid rear axle.