My 2015 Ram had buzzing at the bottom of the windshield. It was the factory alignment tabs that was causing it. Fix was to break it off completely because it was half broken and flapping during high speed causing the buzz. As far as the whine sounds like your rear axle causing it, maybe the pinion bearing.
The anti freeze smell could be coming from your heater core but not enough to overtake the HVAC drain so it is not getting on your floor, yet.
The crayon smell, see the anti freeze smell response.

 

Yea I was thinking heater core with the antifreeze but dreading taking the D apart to check it out. Also have some smeary fogging on the windshield in the morning which I've also heard can come from an antifreeze leak.
As far as the buzz, I was thinking that black plastic strip along the bottom of the windshield might not be seated properly. Nothing looks broken tho...
And how would I go about diagnosing the pinion bearing for the whine? Since it only happens around that speed, how can I check it out while I'm under there? And the D is stationary.
Thanks!

 

As for the anti freeze smell / foggy windshield issue, if $$$ are tight and you can't afford to tear into a heater core replacement right now, try a small 8 oz. container of K Seal as a temp fix. $10 - $12 from Walmart. Follow directions on container. I've had very good luck with temp fixes on minor leaks, and not clogging up entire cooling system.

Whine sound symptoms seem an awful lot like a rear end issue. Before sinking BIG $ into that, you may try draining and refilling diff with some full synthetic 75W90 or similar to see if it quiets it down, but if it's something majorly worn, then time to dig into that further, or consider trade in time.

 

I would concur with the heater core problem...its not a fun task to pull the dash out, now doing it over a dozens times now its gets easier every time....there are some videos on youtube that shows how to pull it all apart...hardest things though is dealing with the a/c lines, they need to be recovered and detached. as for the whine....you need to get her up in the air...4 floor stands (not harbour freight) slide underneath and wiggle the drive shaft and rear diff connections...then start the engine disable traction control and slowly bring up to speed....IF your feeling its secure enough get back under and listen for the sound. if you don't have a mechanic stethoscope then you can use a socket extension and touch it to the part and to your ear. For the bass problem this might be tricky ...do you have the extra sub? you can do a system reset by disconnecting the battery and touching the terminals together for 10 secs, after that hard to say you may need a new radio or amp. whistling sound...easy way to check that is to get painter tape, the wider type and tape off areas of the windshield where you think its coming from...don't tape off everything at once cause you won't be able to tell where it's coming from, go section by section.

 

Hmm maybe I'll try the leak stop stuff first. Been leary of stuff like that ever since I used that bars stuff in one of my old vehicles and completely shut down all fluid movement. Sounds better then tearing the dash apart tho, esp since the cooler lines have to come off.
I was looking at some vids on the differential and tbh it seems a bit more involved then I'd like to get. Maybe I'll just bring it somewhere for that and let them diagnose and possibly fix it.
As for the radio, not sure if I have the extra sub or not, but today for the first time it didn't do what it normally does. I did play with the settings a bit, I'll keep an eye or actually an ear on it.
For the flapping noise ppl are saying it's the black plastic strip where the windshield meets the hood... which I tend to believe, just a matter of reshaping it or sealing it better.

 

The thread title describes my mother!

 

“Slow down, you’re going too fast” [emoji28]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Or possibly, mother in law.

Don

 

Was just checking around the web and it seems there has been an update to the uconnect software I never got. My current version is 18.13.17. anyone know if the update might have addressed the audio equalizer issues I'm having?

 

Whatever you do, do something about that antifreeze smell.

If you can smell it or see white fog when the AC is running, you have aerosolized antifreeze blowing into your passenger compartment and you and your family are inhaling it.

That stuff is toxic and long term exposure is not good.

 

Don't see any fog, and the smell coming from the vents smells like crayons more than anything else. Windshield does fog up pretty often tho and engine compartment always seems "filmy" I can smell it on the outside of the D when I park and get out, but never see a leak and level is good in hose and reservoir. Not sure if they are related. Options for testing without tearing the dash apart? Might try that stop leak stuff... Worse comes to worse and something needs to be replaced, then the water will have to come out anyway.

Edit: btw, the coolant temp needle on the dash never goes higher than 25%. Shouldn't it sit in the 50% range? Oil temp also only goes up to about 25% (170°)

 

This is after driving a half hour in 80° humid weather.

 

I suggest a shop that specializes in auto air conditioning for an inspection.

When this sort of thing happened in my old Durango, a $100 inspection confirmed that my heater core was leaking. I would up bypassing the heater core rather than tearing the dash apart.

I live in southern AZ though, so being without heat was doable. Might not be for you.

 

Excuse my ignorance, buy why would cold air from the ac be passing by the heater core and picking up those fumes?

Anyone know where I can score a service manual or Haynes or something? In the old days you could find just about anything online. 🤫

 

AC and heating all share the same ductwork. A leaking heater core will be letting coolant drip into that ductwork. Doesn't matter which is running, the air moving through will pick up the aerosolized coolant and push it into the cabin.

 

Time to add one more issue now. Rear brakes were squealing due to wear indicator contacting rotor. Ok, bought new pads and installed them yesterday. Only problem was, the old pads were wearing unevenly... and by that I mean, on BOTH sides of the vehicle, the outer pads were worn down to nothing while the caliper side pads looked almost brand new. Since we don't have sliders or guides that the pads sit in (the metal clips) and therefore nothing to bind them up, what could be causing this issue? All the pins seemed fine and I greased them up again as well as the edges of all the pads that contact the bracket. Any ideas?

 

My rear pads often make a snap noise when stepping on the brakes. Got 9k miles on it. Our last one (2020) did the same thing when new. Dealer replaced those as a “goodwill” measure, sound went away.

Guessing that yours are like mine, binding instead of sliding smoothly. I haven’t bothered taking them apart yet, but it sounds like you’ve done the right thing. I’d check it after driving a bit to see how well things still slide.

 

Sooo.... I brought the D in for recall work, and while it was there I had them check the antifreeze smell and the whining noise. still waiting on the whine, but they said the radiator and the water pump were leaking. Seems I see a lot of issues with these water pumps. Any recall or extended warranty for them? Were they failing completely or just leaking? Are new pumps any better than the originals or should I go aftermarket?

 

The Hemi water pumps were failing early due to bad bearings...but I haven't heard of V6 water pumps suffering the same early failures.

 

He said it was a leak, not failing due to bearings or anything. Also he didn't have a chance to check the rear diff since it was raining pretty hard and he didn't want to drive it that fast (65). Have to bring it back.

 

Shoot one more issue I forgot to mention. The rear seat heater on the driver's side... When I press it, the light comes on for a few seconds, 10 maybe?, but then goes out and the seat doesnt get warm. Passenger side rear works fine, except that's where the car seat is.

 

Ok guys... Got it inspected at the nearest dodge dealership and dude says I need a new rear diff for the whine. Said the gears were shot, then proceeded to quote me 3k to get that done. Seems a bit high to me, what do you all think? Also don't think it's something I want to tackle myself, never really messed with diffs before other than fluid changes. I'm in the Raleigh, NC area... Anyone have a place they'd recommend? Thanks.

Quick question... He would have had to open it up to make that decision, correct? Originally from the test drive he said might be pinion bearing, but now saying a whole new diff? Also it only has 105k miles on it. Do they go bad that fast? We don't drive it crazy and have towed less than 5 times. Not sure about previous owner though...

 

No, typically last the life of the car unless there is a fluid leak out a seal which then would cause the fluid level to get too low and then hurt bearings.
But you can pick up a good used diff for your vehicle for around $200-250. A good local repair shop or a driveline/4 wheel drive shop can install quickly. I'd make a few calls for quotes. Install cost should not exceed $500.

 

How would I know if I have the 7.68 or 9.06? Is the awd different than the rwd?

 

2014 RWD V6 has the 3.45 ratio rear diff...should be a 230mm.
But you can take your VIN to dealer and the parts counter will tell you exactly what it came with.

 

Awesome thanks for the info. Is the whine something to be concerned about or can it be put off for awhile. Don't hear any grinding or anything... Also how would they know the gears were bad unless they opened it up?

 

Assuming the fluid level is correct and noise is not getting louder...should be fine to put off.
They wouldn't know for sure about the gears unless they pulled the rear cover, coated the gears with marking paint and rotated the gears around to see the pattern and compare it to what the pattern should be. But if they have seen several of the same, then the mechanic may know the outcome. Typically if the gears are not set up correctly, they will wear wrong and you'll get noise which can only be corrected with new gear set.

 

Ok thanks.