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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, so I only have 1500 miles on my DDSRT but I've already started a list of little annoyances that I just don't think should exist for a $70K+ SUV. So far nothing major but for that price there's a whole lot of other cars you could pick from. I'm going to submit my list to Dodge once I think it has stopped growing, but for now here's what I've got so far:

1) Gas tank will not fill up unless I hold the pump a certain way; otherwise the pump will shut off over and over

2) There's a spot in the clear coat by the left rear quarter panel that looks like it was not properly applied; its a hazy color and I'm sure it will start to peel there around the 60 or 70K mile mark

3) On the drive home after buying it it started shaking between 50mph and 80mph, that was fixed pretty quickly but still annoying after buying a brand new truck

4) The dash started squeaking the other day. It was very brief and during a cold spell but still audible

5) The exterior door lock button drives me nuts. When walking up to the car there's a delay before the button on the door lets you unlock the car. Also, pressing it twice does not unlock the passenger doors, you have to do that from the inside. The worst though is trying to lock the doors using the door button. I have to press the door lock button at least 5 or 6 times to get it to figure out I want to lock the doors. After the delay detecting the key fob it then unlocks the doors regardless of the current unlock/lock status of the doors. So the first press will always result in it trying to unlock the doors. The second press is usually ignored, the 3rd - 5th press might finally get the doors to lock. I've now decided it is easier to just use the key fob every time

My GTR and every other Nissan I've driven is perfect....if it is unlocked a single press of the outer button locks all of the doors. If it is locked a single press unlocks the driver's door, two presses unlocks all of the doors and there is no delay ever between walking up to the car and pressing the button. In the DDSRT UConnect menu you can set the outer button to unlock all of the doors, but why can't you just press it twice when you want all of the doors unlocked and once for the driver's side only?

6) The power hatch is just annoying to me. A lot of times I just need to grab something quick from the back, with the power hatch I now either have to wait for it to eventually reach all the way to the top or grab it and fight with it trying to open while I'm trying to close it. This is my first vehicle with that 'feature' maybe they are all like that, but regardless it is pretty annoying.

7) The drive selector does not let you shift from neutral to drive without pressing the brakes. At my local car wash the car must be in neutral to use the conveyor belt. At the end of the wash tunnel you then need to shift to drive to get off the belt. Also though, you cannot press the brakes or it will lock up the conveyor belt and your car and any cars behind you on the belt are now stuck until the attendant resets the machine that you locked up by pressing your brakes. I've never had a car that mandated you press the brakes to shift from neutral to drive. I now have to tap the brakes but without engaging them then shift into drive all without locking up the conveyor belt or getting ran into by the car a few feet behind me on the belt.
 

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A few comments - I don't have an SRT, but many of the functions are the same across the line...

1 - Some people have reported that, some have it happen all the time, some only at certain stations, many not at all - in 112K miles, I haven't really had any problems filling up. You may need to try a different station/pump, or adjust how you hold the pump.

5 - I'm not sure what is happening...unless it has changed, the button on the door handle doesn't unlock the door, you need to slide your hand behind the handle. There is a short (maybe 1 second) delay, so you can't just grab the handle and pull, you need to let it unlock first. When you lock it, make sure your hand isn't around the handle, as that will prevent it from locking. You can set it so unlocking the driver's door with the handle will unlock just the driver's door, or all the doors. If you unlock the front passenger door with the handle, it will unlock all four doors.

6 - If the hatch is opening, you can grab something out of the back, then hit the inside button (on the left side of the opening) and it will reverse direction without opening all the way. I do that all the time.
 

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Some of these are just annoyances that have nothing to do with the price tag. Just the nature of the beast. But...

The gas pump thing is more station related than car. I have had this happen with certain pumps, but change stations or change the pump position and problem solved.

The door lock. It doesn’t sound like it’s being used correctly. The unlock sensor is behind the handle. The button doesn’t unlock it. It just locks it. To unlock it, grab the handle. Should be like a half second delay. To lock, just make sure you take 1 finger and push the button. Don’t grab the handle and push with hour thumb. That will confuse it.

The power tailgate I believe can be turned off in settings. Don’t quote me on that, but I think I saw that setting.

As far as the clear goes. If that’s truly a fault in the clear it will be a warranty issue. I highly recommend having it ceramic coated. If you do this with a good detailer, they will do “paint correction” prior to coating. I bet that will resolve the problem.
 

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Had the gas tank issue happen with me today on my first fill up lol found a cheap gas station for 2.99 per gallon of 93 and it kept tripping the pump, I got so frustrated after 2 minutes of that, I just drove on down the road a paid 40 cents more per gallon at a station that worked.

Will be interesting so see what happens at first car wash, also conveyer belt but I'm assuming once I get to the end at the green light the belt will give me enough time to get off regardless...
 

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5. You're using it wrong. Button only locks the doors, touching the rest of the handle will make it unlock. The delay is because the nfc, near field communication for lack of better term, has to send an encrypted signal to your key fob, fob then sends an encrypted signal back to the car, car has to verify that signal, and then unlock.

You can also set it to only unlock the drivers door, or unlock all the doors. Should be in the settings either on the radio or the center dash. Even my Caliber let's me choose.

6. Yes it's slow, yes they're all like that, yes it's annoying.

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5. enough said...I too just use the keyfob.
6. Yes, too slow IMO as well...again, I use keyfog when approaching after shopping.
7. You can thank Chekov(Star Trek actor) who got crushed by his Jeep after jumping out and not putting it into Park and instead it was in N. I also believe you can't put the vehicle in R with door open now either. But you should be able to disconnect the solenoids that require pushing the brake pedal at least you can on other FCA vehicles. You can hear them, they are near the shifter when you step on the brake prior to shifting from P.
 

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Just my opinion but:
1. I have 10k miles on mine and have never experienced an issue pumping gas. Might be the station you are using.

2. Did you bring that spot to the attention of your dealer? Why wait until you have 70k miles on it if it is a warranty issue that can be addressed now?

5. As already stated, that button LOCKS the doors. Grabbing the handle will unlock ALL doors.

7. I don't know what car wash you are using but, EVERY car wash I have ever used pushes the vehicle clear of the conveyor to avoid exactly this from happening. This isn't an issue with your vehicle. It is an issue with the car wash you are using. The hand car wash I go to now does not have a conveyor. Maybe you should try switching to a brushless car wash.
 

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1. no issues pumping gas here. have encountered occasional issues like that at certain pumps with other vehicles. its always an issue with specific pump handles, not the car.
5. i think everyone has already replied enough about you doing it wrong :) i will add that if you have a cell phone in your pocket with your keys and the fob is between they phone and your leg, it sometimes takes an extra second or two for the car to see the fob. this happens on my durango, hellcat and my previous ram 1500 all with keyless enter and go. i normally carry my phone and keys in separate pockets but if im going out for lunch and have my work cell (second phone) on me, its in my pocket with the keys. i try to make sure my keys/fob are to the outside of my pocket.
6. yeah its annoying.
7. dont use automatic car washes if you value your paint.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies

1) Gas issue; I simply do not buy that it is the gas stations, I have been driving over 20yrs, never had a single problem with pumps or gas until now. I think it's a design flaw in either the return tube or the way the nozzle is attached to the tank. Sure some stations work better than others but in 20yrs to never have this problem, now suddenly have to hold the pump a certain way just to pump gas is not the station's fault.

2) Paint issue; most people do not realize that the minute you get your car painted for ANY reason, it loses at least 10% of it's value. I have had many cars over the years and dealerships use paint meters when you trade the car in to verify that no part of the car has been repainted. If it has been repainted for ANY reason they will deduct from their offer price. Their excuse is that it may have been in an accident that does not show in the history report, they do not care what explanation you give even if you have the original work order in hand. For this reason I hate having to get anything painted or repainted on a car. So to have this problem on day one of owning the truck is a bigger problem than most people realize.

5) Locks; I tested them today after seeing the replies and was pleasantly surprised. Yes I was doing it wrong. The dealership lady told me that the button on the outside locks and unlocks the doors, or maybe I just wasn't paying attention because I thought I already knew how it worked; I never knew about putting the hand into the handle. The delay is also gone, I think the delay was me pushing the button trying to open the door then pushing the button a few more times while confusing the door lock system.

6) Hatch; looks like I'll just have to fight with it. The main problem is if I don't pull into the garage perfectly the hatch will hit the garage door when it opens, so with my last SUV I'd just guide the whole process by hand and not open it all the way. With the auto hatch its a fight to keep it from hitting the garage door and getting it to stop where I want it to stop.

7) Drive Selector; I just hate nanny features like these. I already have lane assist, adaptive cruise, brake assist, etc. etc. turned off. No, my favorite car wash does not have room for error when leaving the tunnel. The attendants put the cars into it with less than 2' to spare, if you hit the brakes at the wrong time you will either get rear ended or you will lock up the conveyor belt. I think at a minimum this should be a feature that can be disabled, I'd sign a disclaimer or whatever else was needed.

I know auto car washes are bad for the car/paint/etc but I live in FL and have a blk SUV; it rains every 5min here, gets coated in pollen for 2 months out of the year, gets coated in love bugs for 3 months out of the year, and gets covered in sand and dust for 12 months out of the year. I take the lesser of two evils so I go to my favorite car wash which takes 3 minutes, unlimited washes per month with a membership and yes damages the paint a bit each time; but it's still better than having caked up dirt 7 days a week or spending hrs getting it hand washed every other day. I took my last truck to this same car wash for 6yrs and yes it had a few scratches from the brushes in the car wash but other than that the paint was perfect.
 

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On the lift gate... If you pull the handle, release it, then quickly pull it again it'll go into manual mode and let you open and close it much quicker.

As for the fuel thing... Yeah, a lot of people have mentioned it. It's probably not venting normally that 99.99% of other cars do. But there are a few stations around me that even my 2011 gives me problems... Can't go full blast or I gotta cock it at a weird angle. I just go one below full blast and that seems to solve it.

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1. The slight rattle every time you close the left rear door of the wk2 and WD platforms. Can’t believe they haven’t got this one sorted.

2. No switchable “quiet mode” for exhaust.


Not much. If it didn’t handle, stop, or go so well, then I’m sure I could could come up with more.
 

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I've not had a single issue refueling with early pump shut-off with my '14, so maybe there is a problem with the venting on yours?
 

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Having gone from German /SUVs/cars to a JeepSRT and DSRT sitting in the garage I’d say your quality concerns are about right. But that was sort of expected as these things are basically cars that were designed to sell for $30k... so we get FCA quality engineering and assembly... just part of the FCA ownership experience. There are a ton of threads on the Jeep SRT forums as well.


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Having gone from German /SUVs/cars to a JeepSRT and DSRT sitting in the garage I’d say your quality concerns are about right. But that was sort of expected as these things are basically cars that were designed to sell for $30k... so we get FCA quality engineering and assembly... just part of the FCA ownership experience. There are a ton of threads on the Jeep SRT forums as well.


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From an engineering point of view, Mercedes-Benz (when it was Daimler-Chrysler) helped design the Jeep Grand Cherokee/Dodge Durango platform based on the M-B GL class. Apparently, for some, quality control and assembly are not up to Mercedes standards. So far, I have to say that both my JGCSRT and DDSRT have good fit and finish and (knock on wood!) no problems or issues.:thumbsup:
 

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HAHA you people kill me. Buy a high performance machine and expect it to be a refined luxury caddy. Y dont you go by the caddy? Of the list of complaints all were either bs or ignorance.
 

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HAHA you people kill me. Buy a high performance machine and expect it to be a refined luxury caddy. Y dont you go by the caddy? Of the list of complaints all were either bs or ignorance.
That's hardly a fair thing to say. While it's not like Dodge is Yugo-like, they are not the tightest finished vehicles out there. If I'm going to pony up $70k for a vehicle, I would hold it to pretty dang high standards too. I wouldn't call the listed issues either ignorance or bs. We clearly like Durangos here more than the average people out there, but there's no need to defend it at the expense of a fellow owner.
 

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HAHA you people kill me. Buy a high performance machine and expect it to be a refined luxury caddy. Y dont you go by the caddy? Of the list of complaints all were either bs or ignorance.
for $70k, most of his complaints were understandable, except the door locks which he just misunderstood. We aren't talking about a $35k base model. Performance and quality are not mutually exclusive. I feel like some people in here love to act like the Durango is the best thing since sliced bread. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my 15 R/T, my wife likes it better than her 2016 CTS as far as ride goes, but its not without its faults.
 
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