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Leaking Transmission Line

11K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  Durangutan  
#1 ·
Year and a half ago or so, I noticed a few drops of tranny fluid under the D one morning. I looked, and one of the transmission lines where the metal ties into the fitting and converts to rubber was leaking right at that junction. I wiped it clean and before I did anything about it, the leak stopped. I knew that wasn't going to last.

Anyway, fast forward to last week. The dripping has started again, this time in earnest. It's leaking constantly now, leaving fluid everywhere I park. I looked under it this morning and it's leaking at the same junction again. It's leaking much more heavily now. Until I get it fixed, I will not drive it. It will certainly rupture and strand me and I won't take that chance. So here's the reason for the thread...

What repair is available for this, short of getting a whole new line? Are replacement fittings and rubber hose assemblies available? Is it possible to cut and paste a double clamp bypass and get rid of those seemingly weak links altogether? I know those lines operate under fairly heavy pressure, so I don't want to hack repair it. But, if a double clamp fix is acceptable, I will go that route.

Anyone have any experience with this particular issue?
 
#2 ·
This is the line. $60 isn't a huge outlay of cash so if that's the route I have to take, that's fine. But this involves time lost in shipping, whereas I could go to O'Reilly's and get hose and a few clamps today. The thick area towards the front of the line is where it converts to rubber, and that is where the leak is.

Chrysler Transmission Oil Cooler Oil Cooler Tube 55056533AB | eBay
 
#4 ·
I had this same issue. Couldn't find the part at the local parts store. Dealer was about $100.00, plus $300.00 to install it.
This is a high pressure line so I'd be careful using hose clamps, etc.
You can do the line yourself if you have the quick connect tool and can get the line out.
Mine happened in winter and I didn't have a place to work on it so the dealer got my money. :(
 
#5 ·
It's the high pressure aspect that ultimately led to me just getting the entire replacement line. Some things you can cobble together, but I didn't want to leave any question marks in my head. Replacement looks straightforward. Heck, to save $300 in labor I'd lay in the snow (may have to anyway, actually :eek: )
 
#6 ·
I didn't want to spend the $ for a line from the stealership, so I bought a larger aftermarket cooler and mounted it in place of the factory. Cut the crimped connectors off and used a couple of brass barbs and clamps to tie into the aftermarket. High pressure line in the transmission isn't so high that a barb and clamps won't hold.
 
#7 ·
I hate noob questions, sorry I have to ask this.

I assumed (foolishly) that the line was connected with a hex head threaded nut, like any transmission line I recall working on in the past. Anyway, this line just has what looks like some quick disconnect thing? How do I disconnect the old line and connect this one?
 
#8 ·
Transmission line tools they look like the fuel line tools
STEVE
 
#10 ·
OK, little help...

The line where it connects to the cooler was a simple pop-off with the quick-disconnet tool. However, the end where it goes into the transmission is a different story. I can't get the QD tool to go into the fitting to get the line out. Any tips? It's also fairly hard to reach so I really can't do a whole lot in there. Free likes for good advice!!
 
#13 ·
Spraying it down may have dislodged some accumulated grime, but it didn't help get it disconnected. Not wanting to waste too much time or risk causing damage with excessive force or a home made tool, I ordered a jiffy-tite specific disconnect. I will add the link below in case anyone is interested. The plastic disconnect set worked great for the radiator side but not the jiffy-tite side. The tool came today and I got the line out in a matter of seconds. I'm not always a fan of a single-purpose tool, but I am glad to have this. Made the disco s breeze. And if you've been under a gen 2 with the 545rfe, you know the lines are pretty tight to the exhaust and frame, This little fellow was a massive help.

Amazon.com: Lisle 22930 3/8" Low Profile Disconnect: Automotive
 
#14 ·
And for the final chapter, I'll just add that quick-disconnect does not mean quick-connect. In my case, I could not get the new line to snap in to the fitting, There wasn't enough leverage, so I had to remove the inner fender to get proper leverage. Oh well, it was almost a super quick job. Still not the biggest PIA ever, by far.