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Discussion Starter #1
Lets first start about 2 weeks ago when I noticed that the engine didn't seem as smooth at idle. So after checking the maintenance records I added a can of Berryman's B12 to a full tank of gas thinking maybe one of the injectors was dirty. She already has 71K miles on her and I have a fresh set of; spark plugs, ignition coils and a new oil cooler assembly as well as the upper and lower intake gaskets on the shelf in the garage - but no sign of the eventual oil cooler leak, hey this is a 2014 Pentastar V6 after all.

Last evening I notice a oil stain on the driveway under the Durango and I figure well its time to change the leaky oil cooler. So after work this evening I started poking around the oil cooler with a long wire, forcing it into the valley around and under the oil cooler. Every time it came out dry - hmm. So I put her up on a set of ramps and starting looking around underneath her. The driver's side of the front differential was coated with a dark messy oil, as was the drivers side front-to-back tubular member of the front sub frame and the inside edge of the drivers side LCA. I then noticed that the bottom of the drivers side engine mount was coated as well, but nothing above or around it.

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Are these liquid filled engine mounts and if so, do I have a leaky one? While still under the Durango (after taking the pictures) I started searching the internet for Jeep Grand Cherokee and Durango leaking engine mounts. Sure enough "lookie at what I found", Mopar is on their 7th p/n for these V6 engine mounts, which means six redesigns. revisions / updates. So that is what I was noticing a few weeks ago - more vibration due to a faulty engine mount. I also watched a few videos on how much fun it is to replace them, especially the drivers side. To raise the engine up high enough to replace the engine mount, you have to remove the upper intake plenum - well if that has to come off, I might as well do the spark plugs and coils at the same time and see if the oil cooler has truly not started to leak yet.

This evening a ordered a pair of the latest p/n I could find (68252518AA) engine mounts hoping I will not have to do this job more than once.
 

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Well that looks like fun....I know Lexus uses the same type of mount...they also have issues of failing before 100K.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ordered a pair of those newest p/n engine mounts and only one showed up. WTF!?! So I called the folks and they were very apologetic and offered to send out the second one next day air on their dime due to it being their mistake. Cool! The only problem was that UPS deemed the fluid filled engine mount as a hazardous material that can't be air shipped and returned the unit to the sender. Really !?! Grrr....

So now I have to wait for the ground shipment and figure out how and when I am going to fit this job in over the busy father's day weekend or take a day off during the week, which sounds better yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Half way though the job and I just have to post that this is one of the worst automotive jobs I have ever done in a long time. Between the blind bolts, the tight cramped working areas and having to do most of the work from below - what a royal PITA. It would be impossible without the QuickJack and an extra low profile creeper, or better if you have access to a 2-post lift. The driver's side would be much easier if it were RWD vs AWD. Looking up at that starter, I hope it never goes bad. That lower 13mm bolt for the throttle body bracket is down right masochistic /sadist for anyone expect those with tiny hands. You have to invent ways to get at the lower mount bolts, like interlocking a couple 15mm box/open end wrenches due limited movement for the front bolts as well as the fact that the exhaust and cats are in the way for the rear bolts. I had every 3/8" and 1/2" drive 15mm socket (normal and deep well, 6 pts and 12 pts) wrench, short breaker bars, extensions and wobblers as well as ratching box end wrench with me on the creeper. Getting at those lower bolts is easier with the engine up, but I really don't like to have my hands/fingers in there waiting for the jack to fail or something to slip. Can't wait to try and get everything back together! When raising the engine, the passenger side comes up higher/quicker than the driver's side, so I at least I have the passenger side replaced (not bolted in yet). I just could not get that last needed 1/4" raise on the drivers side that I needed to remove the loose mount. I need to try to lift the engine from another spot to get the drivers side up higher. Or maybe try it with the passenger mount bolted loosely in place so as to limit the raise on the passenger side and force the driver's side higher. Yesterday I was using rubber blocks from the QuickJack with the floor jack and lifting the engine at the bell housing - just enough room behind the small stamped oil pan section and the sub-frame rail. Also make sure to remove the two transmission mount bolts so that every thing comes up nice and easy. I can now understand why the dealership charges $1K for this job. I sure hope these latest redesigned mounts will never have to be replaced! Oh well, time to finish my coffee and head back out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Finally figured it out. There is a not so great YouTube video of the fix where the photograph is only so-so and I couldn't figure out what he was trying to illustrate.

Turns out on the driver's side you also have to remove the cast aluminum bracket that bolts onto the side of the engine block to gain the needed room to remove the driver's side mount. Shown in the picture below. I was able to wiggle the mount out without have to loosen the heat hose tubing hold downs - but it might have been quicker/easier if I had. I tightened the lower bolts on the mounts first - so if you do that, watch to make sure the upper threaded stud goes back into the hole on the passenger side as you lower the engine. Also make sure the extra heat side on the passenger side is rotated and lined up correctly, small square hole on the tab. I had to use a crow bar to gently push the stud into place on the passenger side. Don't forget to reinstall those heat shields over the mounts (or you will be doing this repair again shortly) as well as the two transmission mount nuts. Heading back out now to button up the front splash shield assembly and drop her down off the QuickJack. Then its time for new spark plugs and reinstalling the upper intake manifold.

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Got her back together, along with new spark plugs and ignition coils. The gap on the 72.4K mile factory Champion spark plugs had opened up to 0.049-0.050" so with the upper intake already off I am glad I had planned on replacing them. Went with Autolite XP Iridium spark plugs. I once again double checked looking for the eventual oil cooler leak - nothing yet, so I skipped that job for now. She fired right up on the first try and took her for a ride around the block. Silky smooth with no vibrations and best of all no codes - swear she was brand new. Changing the motor mounts is something I would not recommend trying at home unless your V6 Durango happens to be RWD. Plus you can't do the job unless you get her way up in the air, so you need some type of lift or a really high ramp setup. It sure was not much fun under there and I am glad I survived that job with just a few bloody knuckles!
 
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