They usually jack from these spot so as to compress the springs thus getting the tires off the ground that much quicker. I usually jack from the factory points but this takes much longer as the spring/shocks have to fully extend before the tires clear the floor. Don't think it'd do any damage unless it was jacked from the rear differential which is a BIG no-no.

I'd let other more knowledgeable users chime in on this before making a final decision.

 

It's fine to lift by the front control arm for the front and the rear axle is the rear lift point.

You can raise it by the differential, you just have to be careful the jack isn't putting pressure on the cover.

 

That's fine if you don't have the shop lifts.

 

It's fine to lift by the front control arm for the front and the rear axle is the rear lift point.

You can raise it by the differential, you just have to be careful the jack isn't putting pressure on the cover.

I stand corrected

 

They usually jack from these spot so as to compress the springs thus getting the tires off the ground that much quicker. I usually jack from the factory points but this takes much longer as the spring/shocks have to fully extend before the tires clear the floor. Don't think it'd do any damage unless it was jacked from the rear differential which is a BIG no-no.

I'd let other more knowledgeable users chime in on this before making a final decision.

whoa whoa who!! why is this a BIG no no?? I've jacked mine up that way a couple of times because it compesses the leaves and is the center point? I knew it wasn't the best thing, but please elaborate on why its a BIG NO NO

 

As I indicated above, the danger is if the jack begins to press on the cover.

 

As I indicated above, the danger is if the jack begins to press on the cover.

ok thanks! I thought that may be the case? I tend to make sure that most of the diff itself is on the jack and least amount of pressure on the cover? I'm also using a jack with a rubber "plate" on it so I'm sure that helps the pressure?

 

As I indicated above, the danger is if the jack begins to press on the cover.

ok thanks! I thought that may be the case? I tend to make sure that most of the diff itself is on the jack and least amount of pressure on the cover? I'm also using a jack with a rubber "plate" on it so I'm sure that helps the pressure?

This was a my baaad? see above.

 

Only time its bad to jack from a rear diff is if it's aluminum. None of them are on the D so its a non issue.

 

I have to disagree here. I have seen first hand what happens if you keep lifting from the differential. I had to get my axle tubes welded to the center section on my Nova because of this. The axle tubes are simply pressed into the center section and held with dimples. Repeated lifting at this point stresses this and caused my axle tubes to loosen up and sag, a BIG NO NO for axle/pumpkin geometry.

My Nova has a 8.5" 10-bolt rear end. The Durango rearend is a 9.25" 12-bolt rear, but I'm pretty sure its constructed the same way. The only rear that I know that isn't built like this is the Ford 9".

Now, all that said, I do lift my Durango in the rear this way, as it's pretty much the only way without lifting it 18" in the air by the frame rail to get the suspension to drop. I've been doing this since I've had it and no problems yet (knock on wood), but still, as soon as I get it up I throw the jackstands under the axle and left off the weight ASAP.

Like I said, it probably doesn't cause a problem as the axle may be constructed stronger/differently/better, etc., but I have screwed up one diff this way and still cringe every time I have to do this.

 

FSM says no to jacking on the differential with a floor jack.

 

FSM says no to jacking on the differential with a floor jack.

a-ha!

I do the same thing? I use a piece of wood between the jack and differential to help distribute the weight, no issue here either.