or with the aftermarket wheels on? I have big wheels and tires and would like to get a corredt alignment?
thanks for your help!
thanks for your help!
is it best to have the D aligned with the factory wheels on?
greendurango
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4,249 Posts
or with the aftermarket wheels on? I have big wheels and tires and would like to get a corredt alignment?
thanks for your help!
thanks for your help!
Joined
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1,295 Posts
It really doesn't matter that much, though a lot of aftermarket wheels don't get along well with the alignment heads, as there's not much lip to clamp to like there is on a factory wheel.
If there's enough lip on your aftermarket wheels to clip a balance weight to the outside, then there's enough to get the heads to fit.
That'd be the only determining factor I'd consider if I was thinking about getting it aligned with one set of wheels or the other on it.
If there's enough lip on your aftermarket wheels to clip a balance weight to the outside, then there's enough to get the heads to fit.
That'd be the only determining factor I'd consider if I was thinking about getting it aligned with one set of wheels or the other on it.
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2,079 Posts
Align & More
I'd keep the AM wheels on for the alignment. Balance only if you need it (feel it vibrating.) My advice, find a shop that only does alignments, not some kid who can line up the arrows on a Hunter unit. If your AM wheels are wider, the scrub area has changed due to the increased width. Height of a wheel is of no consequence. Your OEM optimal angles may no longer apply. It takes an old hand to nudge your toe just enough for even wear on the new, wider tires.
If the tires need balancing, insist on seeing the printout to confirm 0.00s. And if too much weight is applied, also insist that the whole assy be match-mounted to the wheel. This puts the heaviest spots of each opposite each other (less weight on the wheel.)
If you can, use nitrogen instead of air. I used to poo poo this until I saw some real world tread life. That stuff works and it's not as susceptible to leakage through the rubber and will maintain proper inflation longer. But one top off with regular air will negate the cooling effects. Refill with nitrogen only.
Just how I'd treat my mom's ride.
Bill
I'd keep the AM wheels on for the alignment. Balance only if you need it (feel it vibrating.) My advice, find a shop that only does alignments, not some kid who can line up the arrows on a Hunter unit. If your AM wheels are wider, the scrub area has changed due to the increased width. Height of a wheel is of no consequence. Your OEM optimal angles may no longer apply. It takes an old hand to nudge your toe just enough for even wear on the new, wider tires.
If the tires need balancing, insist on seeing the printout to confirm 0.00s. And if too much weight is applied, also insist that the whole assy be match-mounted to the wheel. This puts the heaviest spots of each opposite each other (less weight on the wheel.)
If you can, use nitrogen instead of air. I used to poo poo this until I saw some real world tread life. That stuff works and it's not as susceptible to leakage through the rubber and will maintain proper inflation longer. But one top off with regular air will negate the cooling effects. Refill with nitrogen only.
Just how I'd treat my mom's ride.
Bill
Joined
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13,701 Posts
A real alignment shop is a thing of beauty in this case.
The place I use when (a) I have TireRack drop ship tires, or (b) I have an issue and want a good job is a place probably 20 miles from here called "Daigle's Steer-O-Master." They're primarily an alignment/suspension shop. They do have a related body shop and will nicely mount/balance tires (though they don't sell tires.)
They can align anything from your lawn tractor to a 40-ton dumptruck.
If you say "I'd like to talk to the tech before he aligns it", you will and they'll ask you about how you drive, how you want to trade off various possibilities, what you think about the current alignement, etc., etc.
I'm pretty sure they can clamp any wheel, though the alignment doesn't specifically depend on the wheels. A good alignment tech can look at the wheel/tire setup and figure out how he's going to have to modify the factory specs to properly deal with the way the rubber is going to behave. So I'd say you'd want to have the rubber you're gonna be running when you go in for the alignment.
The place I use when (a) I have TireRack drop ship tires, or (b) I have an issue and want a good job is a place probably 20 miles from here called "Daigle's Steer-O-Master." They're primarily an alignment/suspension shop. They do have a related body shop and will nicely mount/balance tires (though they don't sell tires.)
They can align anything from your lawn tractor to a 40-ton dumptruck.
If you say "I'd like to talk to the tech before he aligns it", you will and they'll ask you about how you drive, how you want to trade off various possibilities, what you think about the current alignement, etc., etc.
I'm pretty sure they can clamp any wheel, though the alignment doesn't specifically depend on the wheels. A good alignment tech can look at the wheel/tire setup and figure out how he's going to have to modify the factory specs to properly deal with the way the rubber is going to behave. So I'd say you'd want to have the rubber you're gonna be running when you go in for the alignment.
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