Please see my post on "All About the Harman-Kardon 19 Speaker Premium Upgrade (Including replacement and recommendations)" post to learn more.
KEY:
Red - Pop Rivets
Blue - Phillips Screw
Purple - Torx T25 Screw
Yellow - 10 mm bolt
Brown - 7 mm bolt
White - Note
These are some of the hardest speakers to replace as far as I'm concerned. Mostly because there is no clear and easy way to take the door off. What I have found is FIND A HELPER. I have a 7 year old son who I gave $5 per door to to help hold the door panel while I did what I needed to do. And I would have paid him $20 per door to do it. (Also, roll the window DOWN before you start. You'll thank me later)
First you will need to remove 2 sockets. A 10mm and a 7mm. See image 1 below. These are located behind little "flaps" that can be removed. Like you're going to open your door, pull back the door handle and the plastic right behind it will come off. In the door handle, there is a small flap that does not come out, but you can flip it up enough to do what we need to do. Once the screws are removed you'll need to pop out the window/lock switches (white). This is easily done with a pry tool. Be very gentle, it doesn't take much to pull it out. The plug is not a push plug to release, instead you need to pull the colored piece back about 1/4 of a inch and then it will easily slide off and on.
Image 1:
![Image]()
Image 2:
![Image]()
Image 3:
![Image]()
Once you have removed those two screws you can start to remove the panel. Be warned the pop rivets used here are "new" to me. I've never seen this style used before and have no special technique for getting them off and it was very difficult to do so. They're so tight and so close together it was impossible to get any leverage on them. I had to yank fairly hard (probably 50lbs of force or more) to get the first one off. Most of the rest came off pretty easy once you had some leverage, but be careful. I broke 2 of the rivets on my first door. The remaining 3 doors I broke 2 between the 3. The door did go back just fine after spending 5-10 minutes lining everything up.
But this isn't even the most difficult part. The worst part is the door handle and the door latch release cable are virtually not removable AND the door panel itself has cables running through it. So when you do pull - DO NOT PULL FAR. You can pull hard, but do not let it go more than 4-5 inches away from the door or you will break something. Once the door panel is off, my highest suggestion is to have someone hold the door panel at a 90 degree angle to the door itself, with the top half resting on where the window is.
You should now see the 6x9 speaker in the door as well as the 3.5in speaker mounted to the door panel that we just removed. In the image below, I actually took the time to remove the door panel although after doing this once (and taking nearly 75 minutes or more to take it apart and put it back together, I got my son to just hold the door panel for me and I worked underneath it. Cut the time from ~75 minutes down to about 25 minutes.
Image 4:
![Image]()
The 3.5 in speaker is removed by two philips screws. It is fairly easy to replace, but keep in mind the top mounting depth is big, but the mounts themselves are not forgiving. In my replacement, I got 1/8th inch spacers I used to give it a little more room. Also, mount it with the speaker terminals facing UP. See Image 4 in white. If you face them down it might ground on the window motor. Otherwise this is a easy replacement.
The 6x9 however is a bit more difficult because the holes don't line up perfectly with the standard 6x9 hole placement. It is off just enough to make me mad. This is held in by T-25 screws. So you'll need to be patient while putting the screws back to hold your new speaker up. Once again, plenty of top mounting depth and more than enough bottom mounting depth.
The tweeter however is housed behind another plastic assembly. I was able to pull this up (start from the bottom and work your way up) and replace this, however it is NOT easy. I did break away the plastic pieces and removed the speaker grill (it kinda pops out) and put the new tweeter in while using gorilla glue to hold it in place. But, this will ensure you're never able to put the factory ones back on AND might not work with all tweeters. By all metrics I would consider this particular speaker not replaceable only because of its mounting hardware and limitations, and you will need to splice your own wire. I can't find a adapter for it.
If you feel adventurous then look at it yourself and figure it out. I don't want to be responsible for leading people down a "easy" path that just isn't realistic. But you can do it with a LOT of patience and a "can do" attitude.
NOTE: I'll be honest, the tweeters are one of the weaker parts of the system. When it was all OOTB I thought they were probably some of the best parts of it. But after comparing it with proper speakers, I honestly think that it is one of the weaker parts with the sub itself. So it might be nice if you're feeling adventurous to play around with these when you are here.
NOTE: I pulled the door panel off and thought (with two) I broke the pop rivets. I actually come to learn opening the other doors, they were probably broke when I got it. I was able to clearly see another door had it broken before I even popped my first rivet. These are some weird style rivets, and I'm not sure where I can find a good replacement. Not sure how to explain and teach this - but something to think about.
KEY:
Red - Pop Rivets
Blue - Phillips Screw
Purple - Torx T25 Screw
Yellow - 10 mm bolt
Brown - 7 mm bolt
White - Note
These are some of the hardest speakers to replace as far as I'm concerned. Mostly because there is no clear and easy way to take the door off. What I have found is FIND A HELPER. I have a 7 year old son who I gave $5 per door to to help hold the door panel while I did what I needed to do. And I would have paid him $20 per door to do it. (Also, roll the window DOWN before you start. You'll thank me later)
First you will need to remove 2 sockets. A 10mm and a 7mm. See image 1 below. These are located behind little "flaps" that can be removed. Like you're going to open your door, pull back the door handle and the plastic right behind it will come off. In the door handle, there is a small flap that does not come out, but you can flip it up enough to do what we need to do. Once the screws are removed you'll need to pop out the window/lock switches (white). This is easily done with a pry tool. Be very gentle, it doesn't take much to pull it out. The plug is not a push plug to release, instead you need to pull the colored piece back about 1/4 of a inch and then it will easily slide off and on.
Image 1:
Image 2:
Image 3:
Once you have removed those two screws you can start to remove the panel. Be warned the pop rivets used here are "new" to me. I've never seen this style used before and have no special technique for getting them off and it was very difficult to do so. They're so tight and so close together it was impossible to get any leverage on them. I had to yank fairly hard (probably 50lbs of force or more) to get the first one off. Most of the rest came off pretty easy once you had some leverage, but be careful. I broke 2 of the rivets on my first door. The remaining 3 doors I broke 2 between the 3. The door did go back just fine after spending 5-10 minutes lining everything up.
But this isn't even the most difficult part. The worst part is the door handle and the door latch release cable are virtually not removable AND the door panel itself has cables running through it. So when you do pull - DO NOT PULL FAR. You can pull hard, but do not let it go more than 4-5 inches away from the door or you will break something. Once the door panel is off, my highest suggestion is to have someone hold the door panel at a 90 degree angle to the door itself, with the top half resting on where the window is.
You should now see the 6x9 speaker in the door as well as the 3.5in speaker mounted to the door panel that we just removed. In the image below, I actually took the time to remove the door panel although after doing this once (and taking nearly 75 minutes or more to take it apart and put it back together, I got my son to just hold the door panel for me and I worked underneath it. Cut the time from ~75 minutes down to about 25 minutes.
Image 4:
The 3.5 in speaker is removed by two philips screws. It is fairly easy to replace, but keep in mind the top mounting depth is big, but the mounts themselves are not forgiving. In my replacement, I got 1/8th inch spacers I used to give it a little more room. Also, mount it with the speaker terminals facing UP. See Image 4 in white. If you face them down it might ground on the window motor. Otherwise this is a easy replacement.
The 6x9 however is a bit more difficult because the holes don't line up perfectly with the standard 6x9 hole placement. It is off just enough to make me mad. This is held in by T-25 screws. So you'll need to be patient while putting the screws back to hold your new speaker up. Once again, plenty of top mounting depth and more than enough bottom mounting depth.
The tweeter however is housed behind another plastic assembly. I was able to pull this up (start from the bottom and work your way up) and replace this, however it is NOT easy. I did break away the plastic pieces and removed the speaker grill (it kinda pops out) and put the new tweeter in while using gorilla glue to hold it in place. But, this will ensure you're never able to put the factory ones back on AND might not work with all tweeters. By all metrics I would consider this particular speaker not replaceable only because of its mounting hardware and limitations, and you will need to splice your own wire. I can't find a adapter for it.
If you feel adventurous then look at it yourself and figure it out. I don't want to be responsible for leading people down a "easy" path that just isn't realistic. But you can do it with a LOT of patience and a "can do" attitude.
NOTE: I'll be honest, the tweeters are one of the weaker parts of the system. When it was all OOTB I thought they were probably some of the best parts of it. But after comparing it with proper speakers, I honestly think that it is one of the weaker parts with the sub itself. So it might be nice if you're feeling adventurous to play around with these when you are here.
NOTE: I pulled the door panel off and thought (with two) I broke the pop rivets. I actually come to learn opening the other doors, they were probably broke when I got it. I was able to clearly see another door had it broken before I even popped my first rivet. These are some weird style rivets, and I'm not sure where I can find a good replacement. Not sure how to explain and teach this - but something to think about.
