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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Documenting my process of taking a 2014+ HID (xenon) headlight and swapping out the factory HID bixenon D3S projector with a frensal lens to an OEM RX350 HID bixenon D2S projector with a clear lens (STi-R) swap. I purchased a chrome headlight as a donor to practice and mock things up on.

Why the upgrade?
1. D2S (RX350) has better bulb options than D3S (factory projector)
2. Factory projector low beam is adequate, high beam is horrible and almost nonexistent
3. Sharp cutoff of the RX350 (STi-R lens upgrade) vs blurry cutoff of OEM projector (fresnel lens)
4. RX350 is a better overall 3” projector than the 3” factory projector
5. I can’t leave ANYTHING alone!!

1. Disassembled the headlight by taking off everything I could access from the outside: turn signal bulb, self leveling motor and associated components, HID ballast and dust cap.

2. Baked the headlight via my cardboard box oven and heat gun put on the high setting. Took 3 heat cycles of 15-20 minutes to work the headlight open. The sealant used is definitely not a butyl but more of a silicone sealant that dries hard but if heated will become workable but not gooey and sticky.



3. Front lens off (followed this video for some inspiration: https://youtu.be/uDMaUKfqlKw)



4. Bare headlight housing



5. Internal components

*LED DRL/Amber LED side marker




*Outer bezel (chrome version)



*Inner low beam/high beam bezel


*Turn signal reflector


*Lens


*OEM projector





*OEM projector trim ring





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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Started creating an adapter bracket to marry the RX350 projector to the OEM projector headlight mounting bracket.

1. Purchased a RX350 AFS to NonAFS bracket from a company online (RX350 AFS to Non AFS Adapter C-Brackets). First created a cardboard template combining both the mounting points of the RX350 and OEM projector bracket mounting holes.




2. Test fitting cardboard template inside the OEM projector bracket.





3. From the cardboard template created an 1/8” ABS plastic bracket.



4. Mounted RX350 to adapter bracket first and then mounted to the OEM projector bracket.








*Ordered 12 gauge stainless steel sheet to make the adapter bracket out of metal as I’m worried the ABS plastic adapter bracket might warp and deform under the high heat created from the HID bulb.




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Very cool. I have a 2014 w chrome HIDs that I want to black out. What do you think I would need to do this once I crack open the light using your method? Also what do you plan to use to reseal the light? Keep up the good work.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What do you think I would need to do this once I crack open the light using your method? Also what do you plan to use to reseal the light? Keep up the good work.
Not sure I completely understand your first question, can you elaborate?

When I reseal the lens to the housing I will be using a rubber butyl that I have used in the past with great results. It will make re-opening the headlights again much easier if needed.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you want to match the factory blacktop headlights you need to paint this piece minus the amber reflector:



You can take it a step farther and paint the projector surround black as well. This piece is not painted on factory blacktop headlights but I think it would look a lot better if it was. I will be painting this piece gloss black; even the clear DODGE piece. It just sits in front of the turn signal bulb:




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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@DurangoCitadel

If you have HID headlights with the LED DRL they should be interchangeable between any housing whether it’s chrome or black.

What I don’t know is if you have a halogen headlight without the LED DRL is if you can add the HID projector and LED DRL to that housing.

I would assume the outer shells are the same between the two variations for the mounting points, however, I wouldn’t know for sure without opening up a halogen projector/non LED DRL based headlight.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update: only one internal piece needed to be painted black after stripping the chrome. All pieces that were plated chrome are actually black plastic!! FCA...save yourself the hassle and just blackout everything!

Turn signal reflector = black
DRL reflector = black
Projector surround inner bezel = black
Main bezel = black






Waiting on a new red LED board for the demon eye since I got a defective one.

Next step: integrating the factory wiring harness with the aftermarket relay harness and variable wattage (35W/46W/55W) HellaGen3 ballasts.

Here is my relay board to control the variable wattage ballasts. The Maestro RR2 that was installed with my Pioneer HU has 3 programmable outputs and can be programmed with many OEM buttons on the vehicle. Here’s the setup:



*Red Demon eyes will come on automatically when the Durango’s engine is on and in PARK. They will turn off anytime the gear selector is in DRIVE and will come on when put back into PARK.

*If the Vol+ button is pushed and held it will activate the 55W setting on the custom HellaGen3 ballasts. If the Vol+ button is pushed and held again it will de-activate the 55W setting and go back to 35W. It is setup as a latched switch.

* If the Vol- button is pushed and held it will activate the 46W setting on the custom HellaGen3 ballasts. If the Vol- button is pushed and held again it will de-activate the 46W setting and go back to 35W. It is setup as a latched switch.

I will also have 55W activated whenever the high beams are activated. The HellaGen3 ballasts have a custom wiring harness to integrate into the factory wiring and aftermarket relay harness.


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What's the point of all of the adjustable wattage settings with the volume controls?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What's the point of all of the adjustable wattage settings with the volume controls?
Most ballasts (OEM or aftermarket) are rated at 35W of output. However, those numbers are usually not true when actually bench tested. Many ballasts output 25W-30W. I have modified these ballasts with better internal components to output a true 35W (default) and 46W/55W on demand.

That being said a higher wattage produces more light output. I can set the wattage I want (on demand) to produce more or less light with the steering wheel controls but when the high beams are activated I have it wired to automatically boost to 55W.

Another way to say it is I can put more lumens out on the road at the flip of a switch.

With the D2S RX350 bixenon projectors, clear lens swap, D2S OSRAM CBI HID bulbs and custom HellaGen3 ballasts I have an increase anywhere between 500-1200 lumens depending on which wattage I select (based on my calculations). I will test with a lux meter after the retrofit is done.


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Most ballasts (OEM or aftermarket) are rated at 35W of output. However, those numbers are usually not true when actually bench tested. Many ballasts output 25W-30W. I have modified these ballasts with better internal components to output a true 35W (default) and 46W/55W on demand.

That being said a higher wattage produces more light output. I can set the wattage I want (on demand) to produce more or less light with the steering wheel controls but when the high beams are activated I have it wired to automatically boost to 55W.

Another way to say it is I can put more lumens out on the road at the flip of a switch.

With the D2S RX350 bixenon projectors, clear lens swap, D2S OSRAM CBI HID bulbs and custom HellaGen3 ballasts I have an increase anywhere between 500-1200 lumens depending on which wattage I select (based on my calculations). I will test with a lux meter after the retrofit is done.


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Ok, that is great and all, but seems so unnecessary. The lights are pretty cool though. I personally will stick to more performance based mods. All of this extra stuff is kinda like the guys who are really into stereo systems and spend a whole lotta time and money on things that ultimately don't do a whole lotta anything. But, I do admire your technical know how and like seeing what you're working on... I just don't get it. So, hopefully you're not offended.
PS...please don't blind people with the new setup. :)
 
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