So its been a year since I've purchased my 2018 Durango GT. Haven't had a single issue.. then the battery died on me. I put plugged the truck to charge but quickly noticed that the battery wasn't holding the charge and kept loosing volts. my dealer warranty had expired so I went to replace the batteries and found that I had two batteries. Took them to Autozone and got two new batteries. I installed the main battery with out a problem but when I installed the auxiliary battery sparks flew and the whole truck went dark. I wasn't too sure what happened and I started doing some research and found that the auxiliary battery they gave me has the positive terminal on the right and the negative on the left.. backwards from the original auxiliary battery... I know.. I'm an idiot. I need help now. Is there a main fuse or ECU fuse that would blow in times like these?
HeLP!... Ugh i feel like an idiot.
arkitekt
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Looks like the rear shock. There is a self leveling version that is used on factory equipped tow package models so best to look the part up by your VIN number. Replacing a rear shock should not require alignment.
What is disturbing is it looks like your parking brake cable has been cut.
![Image]()
What is disturbing is it looks like your parking brake cable has been cut.
I was wondering what that was that was broken. So that cable has been like that for a while.
i mentioned the alignment because I feel the steering wheel vibrate when I’m going maybe about 70mph and and my passenger seat starts vibrating as well. Earlier today I hit a curb and my steering wheel was not straight after that and as I drove the tire started screeching soon after
i mentioned the alignment because I feel the steering wheel vibrate when I’m going maybe about 70mph and and my passenger seat starts vibrating as well. Earlier today I hit a curb and my steering wheel was not straight after that and as I drove the tire started screeching soon after
Also, thank you. You have been extremely helpful, I truly appreciate it.
Makes a lot of sense. Thank you.
that thing I circled is that part of the shock? I’m sorry I’m just trying to understand the whole suspension
that thing I circled is that part of the shock? I’m sorry I’m just trying to understand the whole suspension
I see what you’re speaking of now! I’ll have that checked out.
If I may ask, are you a mechanic or just Have great knowledge of vehicles?
If I may ask, are you a mechanic or just Have great knowledge of vehicles?
I am an R&D engineer but repair, modify and maintain all my vehicles.
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I know this is a little off topic. I work at carvana as a technician. Has anyone ever had a issue with no crank no start after a windshield replacement. I don’t know if there is a ground in the dash above the window or a sensor. It’s a 2018 Dodge Durango GT. So far I changed the two batteries and fuse block located on the positive jump terminal. The 150 amp fuse was blown and the aux battery was junk. I figured changing out those it would start. Still no crank no start. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
What do you think caused the huge fuse to blow? Did you short out one of the battery terminals? Did it happen when someone tried to jump the car? Maybe reversed the cables? Depending on the options of the car you could have a camera or two and a sensor in the front of the mirror behind the glass, however none of those would blow a 150A fuse. That is more likely a battery or charging system mistake. You might actually have a blown main battery depending on the order of events.
Sounds very interesting!!
Mechanic took a look at the suspension and it turns out the prior owner went over a bump or had went over some type of high concrete I’m not sure what it was. When I purchased the truck the rim in the tire I’m having problems with was almost entirely scraped.
So when they had that accident the spindle and a bar sort of bent a good amount to affect the mobility of the wheel which is why I was feeling that wobble when I drive at highway speeds. I need help if you happen to know what this bar is called please
Oh geez, I thought that bent bar was the rear sway bar but it is not. Wow, that alignment must have been out of wack.
Look like it is the toe link assembly (Item 3)
Suspension - Rear - 2020 Dodge Durango
MoparPartsGiant.com offers genuine Suspension - Rear for 2020 Dodge Durango with great price and fast delivery.
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Not sure what repair manuals you have access to but I use this link.
McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair
mcdowellpubliclibrary.org
So only thing I can think of that would get impacted by the windshield replacement is the mirror harness. Nothing there to impact that 150amp fuse.
That fuse goes to the power control relay (PCR) which is part of the ESS system and only info I found on that is in the PDF in this link (page 13-14) and it is mounted near the passenger side strut tower.
Engine rattle....bad high/low lift rocker or cam...
Update: To spare folks reading the entire thread, the problem was the high lift lobe on cyl #5 was wiped. Over the weekend I was accelerating off the line hard with my 2017 DDGT and noticed a rattle/light rapid knocking. I thought it was rod knock but to me it seems like maybe valvetrain...
www.dodgedurango.net
The PCR pinout is as follows.
Other than that there is not much on the ESS system besides this section in the chilton site.
ENGINE STOP START
How does Engine Stop Start (ESS) system function - simple overview:
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calibration makes the decision when to shut off the engine and when to restart the engine again
- The ESS shuts the engine off when the vehicle stops. The vehicle has to be stopped for a pre-set time before the engine is switched off.
- When the engine stops, a 12-volt auxiliary battery keeps accessory features powered, like the fan, wipers, headlights, audio system, etc.
- Then, ESS system autostarts when the driver releases the brake pedal allowing the vehicle to move. An in-rush current relay (ICR) is used to smooth out voltage dips when the starter cranks the engine.
Primary Autostop Enablers - Brake pedal depressed (automatic transmission).
Secondary Autostop Enablers- Vehicle speed, coolant temperature, hood closed, doors closed, driver’s seat belt latched, interior climate and settings, battery state and energy demand, steering wheel angle, steering wheel torque, ambient temperature, time and speed since last autostop, transfer case position, and ESC status, No stop-start related faults present.
Autostop Events
- Autostop state broadcast on Controller Area Network (CAN) bus.
- Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) telltales illuminate.
- Engine shutdown begins.
- Fuel and spark restart permissible.
- Restart prohibited.
- Restart permitted, based on start system employed.
When in autostop:
- IPC ESS telltale remains illuminated.
- IPC displays the autostop state message.
- Body Control Module (BCM) starter relay driver is then energized providing the PCM with direct starter control.
- Consumer electronics continue to function in a normal manner.
- Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (HVAC) fan speed and other setting adjusted to maximize cabin comfort and autostop duration (based on climate control settings and conditions).
- Electric Power Steering (EPS) maintained during autostop, possibly with reduced maximum assist.
- Battery State.
- Brake Vacuum.
- Climate control stress.
- Vehicle speed.
- Steering wheel angle or torque.
- Transmission selector position.
- Vehicle systems monitored that may disable stop-start (requiring a key restart if in autostop) include: hood opened, occupant sensing indicating driver not present, unsafe gear shift position for autostart and critical system faults.
- All autostart enablers present.
- Brake pedal released or shifter place in reverse (automatic transmissions).
- Clutch pedal depressed past the up-stop position (manual transmission).
- Throttle pedal depressed.
- Autostart state broadcasted on the CAN bus.
- IPC ESS telltale illumination cancelled.
- IPC message changed to previous IPC message (outside temp and compass, etc).
- Voltage Stability Modules (VSM)’s are placed in voltage conditioning mode.
- Hill Start Assist (HSA) requested.
- Starter relay commanded to initiate cranking.
- Engine achieves idle speed.
- Automatic transmission clutches engaged.
- HSA released.
- HVAC control returned to pre-autostop conditions.
- ESS state (ready) broadcasted on the CAN bus.
- Embedded IPC ESS message indicating “Stop/Start Ready” displays.
| Planned Autostart (Engine On) Enable Conditions: |
|---|
| 1. Valid target gear and brake switch pressure condition. |
| 2. Completed initial engine key start. |
| 3. Occupant sensing allow engine start condition met. |
| 4. On Board Diagnostics (OBD) allow engine start condition met. |
| 5. Vehicle hood not Ajar. |
| Potential Autostop (Engine Off) Enable Conditions: |
|---|
| 1. Tow haul mode not active. |
| 2. Steering wheel angle within defined range. |
| 3. Steering wheel angle gradient within defined range. |
| 4. Steering column torque within defined range. |
| 5. Battery health state of function greater than threshold. |
| Planned Autostop (Engine Off) Enable Conditions: |
|---|
| 1. Valid target gear and brake switch pressure state combination. |
| 2. Threshold vehicle speed exceeded or timed-out since last shift out of reverse. |
| 3. Transmission ready. |
| 4. 4WD Low mode not active. |
| 5. Starter cool down condition met after reaching max allowable consecutive restarts. |
| 6. Ambient temperature within defined range. |
| 7. Engine coolant temperature within defined range. |
| 8. Catalyst temperature within defined range. |
| 9. Battery temperature within defined range. |
| 10. Barometric pressure greater than threshold. |
| 11. Brake booster delta pressure less than threshold. |
| 12. Fuel level greater than threshold. |
| 13. Vehicle hood not Ajar. |
| 14. No throttle request. |
| 15. No engine stop inhibit request by HVAC. |
| 16. Battery state of charge greater than threshold. |
| 17. Battery voltage state of function greater than threshold. |
| 18. Engine speed less than threshold. |
| 19. Vehicle speed less than threshold. |
| 20. Threshold vehicle speed exceeded since last engine start. |
| 21. Occupant sensing allow engine stop condition met. |
| 22. OBD allow engine stop condition met. |
| 23. Engine runtime greater than threshold. |
| 24. ESS "Off" switch not activated. |
| 25. Flex fuel learn mode not active. |
| 26. Antilock Braking system (ABS) brake event not present. |
- IPC message states Stop/Start Autostop Active
- No Chime.
- Normal Use.
- Pop-up maintained for 5 seconds.
- Displays with green hard telltale.
- Single Chime.
- Driver put gear shift in gear without using Clutch; customer needs to return to Neutral or fully depress clutch pedal.
- Pop up maintained for 5 seconds.
- Single Chime.
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or ESS system fault preventing safe state confirmation during autostop.
Stop/Start Ready
- Stop-Start conditions met to enable engine stop.
- Stop-Start turned off by the customer at the switch.
- Stop-Start conditions are not met to enable engine stop (ex: HVAC settings, engine temperature, etc).
- Stop-Start condition not met with steering wheel turned past calibrated angle.
As for the ESS wiring diagram, here is what is given. Wonder if any of the fuses shown are blown?
![Image]()
BTW on my 2017 GT I notice the FSM gave incorrect battery polarity and it was a good thing I made a note of how the old aux battery was connected. More info in this link.
www.dodgedurango.net
BTW on my 2017 GT I notice the FSM gave incorrect battery polarity and it was a good thing I made a note of how the old aux battery was connected. More info in this link.
2017 Durango GT won’t start!
I was sitting at a stop light, and my Durango cut off with absolutely no warning. I finally got it to crank and got it home. The next day it won’t crank at all. The cab lights and dash lights come on, but when I push my start button, it just clicks and won’t turn over. We tried to jump it off...
www.dodgedurango.net
Yes that is the bar that is bent. He took a picture of it on the opposite side to be able to identify it a little easier. It wasn’t bad at first , however when I went other that curb it was horrible and it surprises me because I didn’t go over it that bad the rim didn’t get scrapped or anything I guess it was sort of like a major shub on the tire
**The one you circled in blue
Yeah that looks to be the toe link assembly. See my previous post as I provided a link to the part.
Sorry didn’t catch that. I appreciate you!! 🙂
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