So its been a year since I've purchased my 2018 Durango GT. Haven't had a single issue.. then the battery died on me. I put plugged the truck to charge but quickly noticed that the battery wasn't holding the charge and kept loosing volts. my dealer warranty had expired so I went to replace the batteries and found that I had two batteries. Took them to Autozone and got two new batteries. I installed the main battery with out a problem but when I installed the auxiliary battery sparks flew and the whole truck went dark. I wasn't too sure what happened and I started doing some research and found that the auxiliary battery they gave me has the positive terminal on the right and the negative on the left.. backwards from the original auxiliary battery... I know.. I'm an idiot. I need help now. Is there a main fuse or ECU fuse that would blow in times like these?
arkitekt
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Please help me figure out where this piece is. My 2019 Durango gt is having the same problem and I’m trying not to spend thousands at the dealership.
FYI here is a link that give you online access to chilton where you can get wiring diagrams, wiring layouts and info about where all the fusible links are.
mcdowellpubliclibrary.org
McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair
mcdowellpubliclibrary.org
Going to assume you have this figured out by now but posting for others.
There's two tables on the side and the cover just slides off.
In all my years I've never shorted battery terminals out. I was under the false impression that each battery was isolated since it's supposed to be an auxiliary battery. When in fact they are both running to the same terminals it just seems that the positive terminal on the aux battery is intended to make sure the voltage can be read in order to allow the start/stop to be enabled on startup.
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0n a 2019 it is next to the main battery
Sorry for reviving an old topic, I am having exact issue, were you able to find the cause of the blown wiper fuse?
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Sorry for what could be a stupid question but: I hate the start-stop system and I even read there are ways to permanently bypass/disable it. I didn't have chance yet to study wiring diagrams. Anyone would know if is possible to take the aux start-stop batter OUT permanently, just taking it away and never replace/reconnect it. If this would just give me the yellow "start-stop unavailable" dash light but not affecting anything else, I'd definitely do it. Thanks for any comments or suggestions!
I believe someone makes a start/stop bypass kit. Try searching the forum for it.
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If you haven't opened the battery compartment cover yet the Auxilliary Battery is in the same compartment right next to the Main Battery.
Here is a link to everything Aux battery related.
www.dodgedurango.net
This link goes to a PDF which describes ESS operation.
www.dodgedurango.net
2017 Durango GT won’t start!
I was sitting at a stop light, and my Durango cut off with absolutely no warning. I finally got it to crank and got it home. The next day it won’t crank at all. The cab lights and dash lights come on, but when I push my start button, it just clicks and won’t turn over. We tried to jump it off...
www.dodgedurango.net
This link goes to a PDF which describes ESS operation.
Battery issues
Hello friends For the last couple weeks i have been having starting issues with my 17 durango 3.6L sxt. I had to jump it couple of times. Yesterday i replaced the main battery but today it took longer to start. Here are few facts 1. Checked all lights and made sure they are off 2. Aux...
www.dodgedurango.net
Hello I am having similar problems as you. My vehicle asked me to pull over because my vehicle was going to shut off. I replaced my main battery and we found the positive terminal fuse box is burn out. I still have to replace that, however my mechanic was able to start my Durango. Once started everything was fine but my dashboard will not light up. Do you happen to know where the dashboard fuse is located?
Thank you!! I will check for it! im glad I found this chat I am a 25 year old woman with no knowledge about cars and you all may seem like a great source of help. I appreciate you for replying quickly!
This is the burnt box. However the fuses did not break and I am hoping once this is replaced everything is well and running back to normal. My mechanic mentioned it is a possibility the shock that happened reached the inside components of the alternator so I’m keeping faith beacuse I do not have over $500 laying around for a new alternator
The jumper post fuses are apparently a common failure when the battery (or batteries on the V6) fail. The V6 versions with ESS have a somewhat complex relay setup that uses an intelligent battery sensor to determine which battery to use (PCM controls a relay called the PCR). My guess is if one of the batteries has a high internal resistance it can draw a lot of current thru the system causes fuses to pop.
More info on the ESS here.
Engine rattle....bad high/low lift rocker or cam...
Update: To spare folks reading the entire thread, the problem was the high lift lobe on cyl #5 was wiped. Over the weekend I was accelerating off the line hard with my 2017 DDGT and noticed a rattle/light rapid knocking. I thought it was rod knock but to me it seems like maybe valvetrain...
www.dodgedurango.net
BTW if you are interested in learning more you can access the FSM here. Gives wiring diagrams and sometimes diagnostic steps.
McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair
mcdowellpubliclibrary.org
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