Ark:
The smaller battery is for the autostart system. I would do some investigating in the fuse panels under the hood. Hopefully, you have just blown one of larger ones..

Don

 

I would check all of your electrical systems in the DD to make sure none are drawing power when the vehicle isn’t running. I had a similar problem to you on my boat- the new Bluetooth radio system I had installed was drawing power when the boat wasn’t running (days at a time), and the main battery would be dead by the time we got there. This also ruined the batteries and I had to replace them. Maybe a similar thing caused your batteries to go bad.

 

I don't follow, where is this 2nd Battery? There is one underneath the Passengers seat which is the main battery, so where is the other one?

 

Is under the passenger seat in front of the main larger battery. You have to take out the auxilary battery first to take out the main battery

 

Mantis:
I believe it is next to the main battery. The V8 models don't have the 2nd battery, since they don't offer the auto start feature as far as I know.

Don

 

0n a 2019 it is next to the main battery

 

Yep.....V6 models only. For Start/Stop with 2nd battery.

 

DuRonbo is correct. I was just as surprised..

I went back to Autozone and the gave me the right auxiliary battery and I installed. I was able to turn the truck on for a couple of minutes but it definitely didn't work properly. My guess is that it wasn't getting enough juice from the batteries. As soon as I disconnected the auxiliary battery again everything went dark again.. then with the main battery connected only, I check the terminals under the hood and was still getting enough voltage. Something is interrupting the flow to the rest of the truck.. All the fuses in the fuse box.. any thoughts?

I've also read about high current fusses but I don't know where they are located in the truck. Does anyone know?

 

Clearly something is wrong in the system between the fuse box terminal and the actual electronics. My guess is that rust under the hood shorted one or more wires. This would cause your battery to drain and the electronics not to work. I would check the wires for rust and possible short circuits.

 

Just trying to help out...Chrysler used to use fusible links on main power wires. They look just like a wire and are usually soldered into the main harness. Sometimes they had a rubber tab. They were usually located near the starter. Maybe have a look there?? And start tracing some main wires. Should be red.

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A quick search cuz I was curious. Found this which I'm guessing would be mounted in fuse box

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quick search cuz I was curious. Found this which I'm guessing would be mounted in fuse box

Thanks keegantimber. I took your advice and started following the wires from the battery and I found it.. it was staring at me the entire time. I was looking for the fuse block that is part of the remote positive jump terminal under the hood. Then i took it out and saw that the 150A fuse was blown. I was able to run down to the Dodge dealership and get a replacement. Installed the replacement part (68089468AA) and plugged the batteries back up and the lights came back on.. I turned on the truck but I still have the check engine light on and the radio display doesn't turn on..Ugh!

 

First. Good luck with those issues. Hopefully it's a simple fix for both. A DTC might help you with engine light. Just a guess that it might be something to do with charging system? Or maybe the code set as a result of the blown main fuse and you can just clear it?

Thanks for posting your findings! I learned something today![emoji4]

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First. Good luck with those issues. Hopefully it's a simple fix for both. A DTC might help you with engine light. Just a guess that it might be something to do with charging system? Or maybe the code set as a result of the blown main fuse and you can just clear it?

Thanks for posting your findings! I learned something today![emoji4]

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Now worries.. I'm going to get to the bottom of this.. I did find a blown radio fuse that is located in the battery compartment.. thanks to @41Deacon for his post.. it helped.. here's a photo

 

Does your radio work now?

 

Yes.. radio works and the rest of the controls and display work. The only issue I'm noticing is that my windshield wipers fuse keeps blowing.. not entirely sure why.

 

UPDATE: It was the 150A fuse in the block fuse after all. Phew! Saved me a ton of headaches.

 

can i ask where is this located ?

 

Thank you for this... This was my issue with the battery swap. I somehow popped the 150amp fuse on the fuseblock. I would have never found it. thanks again!

 

FYI here is a link that give you online access to chilton where you can get wiring diagrams, wiring layouts and info about where all the fusible links are.

McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair

mcdowellpubliclibrary.org

 

Where did you find that fuse box? I’m having the same exact issues with my 2017 GT.

 

I'm a couple years behind but we just found that ours is broken as well. What was the price of it at the dealership? If you don't mind me asking

 

Sorry for what could be a stupid question but: I hate the start-stop system and I even read there are ways to permanently bypass/disable it. I didn't have chance yet to study wiring diagrams. Anyone would know if is possible to take the aux start-stop batter OUT permanently, just taking it away and never replace/reconnect it. If this would just give me the yellow "start-stop unavailable" dash light but not affecting anything else, I'd definitely do it. Thanks for any comments or suggestions!

 

I believe someone makes a start/stop bypass kit. Try searching the forum for it.

 

Here is a link to everything Aux battery related.

2017 Durango GT won’t start!

I was sitting at a stop light, and my Durango cut off with absolutely no warning. I finally got it to crank and got it home. The next day it won’t crank at all. The cab lights and dash lights come on, but when I push my start button, it just clicks and won’t turn over. We tried to jump it off...

www.dodgedurango.net

This link goes to a PDF which describes ESS operation.

Battery issues

Hello friends For the last couple weeks i have been having starting issues with my 17 durango 3.6L sxt. I had to jump it couple of times. Yesterday i replaced the main battery but today it took longer to start. Here are few facts 1. Checked all lights and made sure they are off 2. Aux...

www.dodgedurango.net

 

Now worries.. I'm going to get to the bottom of this.. I did find a blown radio fuse that is located in the battery compartment.. thanks to @41Deacon for his post.. it helped.. here's a photo View attachment 110399

Hello I am having similar problems as you. My vehicle asked me to pull over because my vehicle was going to shut off. I replaced my main battery and we found the positive terminal fuse box is burn out. I still have to replace that, however my mechanic was able to start my Durango. Once started everything was fine but my dashboard will not light up. Do you happen to know where the dashboard fuse is located?

 

 

Thank you!! I will check for it! im glad I found this chat I am a 25 year old woman with no knowledge about cars and you all may seem like a great source of help. I appreciate you for replying quickly!

 

 

View attachment 128370

Makes me wounder if someone accidentally grounded the + post? Has the vehicle ever been jumped?
BTW IIRC there is a 5A fuse that is located in the battery area under the passenger seat that is sometimes missed.

 

This is the burnt box. However the fuses did not break and I am hoping once this is replaced everything is well and running back to normal. My mechanic mentioned it is a possibility the shock that happened reached the inside components of the alternator so I’m keeping faith beacuse I do not have over $500 laying around for a new alternator

 

The jumper post fuses are apparently a common failure when the battery (or batteries on the V6) fail. The V6 versions with ESS have a somewhat complex relay setup that uses an intelligent battery sensor to determine which battery to use (PCM controls a relay called the PCR). My guess is if one of the batteries has a high internal resistance it can draw a lot of current thru the system causes fuses to pop.

More info on the ESS here.

Engine rattle....bad high/low lift rocker or cam...

Update: To spare folks reading the entire thread, the problem was the high lift lobe on cyl #5 was wiped. Over the weekend I was accelerating off the line hard with my 2017 DDGT and noticed a rattle/light rapid knocking. I thought it was rod knock but to me it seems like maybe valvetrain...

www.dodgedurango.net

BTW if you are interested in learning more you can access the FSM here. Gives wiring diagrams and sometimes diagnostic steps.

McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair

mcdowellpubliclibrary.org

 

Yes actually. When my vehicle shut off a man from mechanic shop tried to jump start my truck but failed. So he went in the truck and connected the jumper cables to the auxiliary battery in order for me to move my truck on to a parking lot because I was in the middle of the road.

 

Actually, the batteries should not be jumped at their terminals and only at the jumper posts in the engine bay. Also with the aux battery it is very easy to misjudge which is + an -, as the post below shows.

2017 Durango GT won’t start!

I was sitting at a stop light, and my Durango cut off with absolutely no warning. I finally got it to crank and got it home. The next day it won’t crank at all. The cab lights and dash lights come on, but when I push my start button, it just clicks and won’t turn over. We tried to jump it off...

www.dodgedurango.net

 

Thank you. I checked the assigned fuse for the dashboard and It wasn’t cracked or broken but I am wondering if the color of it means it’s damaged? Forgive me , like I said. I know little to nothing about vehicles.