I never experienced that with my 18...but I hope you obeyed the proper breakin procedure for the first 500 miles..

 

Idk about why the Durango is doing it. But when you run the heater it is drawing heat away from the engine. Maybe it's actyally programed to do it to keep Temps down?

Also giver hell. Break in procedures are just another man's opinion lol

 

it's most likely just air from the engine bay getting into the cabin intake...nothing to be concerned about..

Break in procedure is to allow the engine to settle into itself...also warranty people will know better...just sayin i had one blown engine from an 392 durango at my shop. with only 1200 km's on it...our warranty dept said no as we pulled all the data from the computers....just sayin

 

I always find these 1 post members suspicious...lol

 

Why? People have a problem. Sign up. And ask a question. Otherwise they’re not into forums. Happens.

 

like the yeti....

 

.because they are supposed to have no lives and need the warm and fuzzy feeling one can only get on a car forum...like me and the Capt.

 

Thank You from those who offered their help. To the other a-holes who like to run off new forum members I say, "KMA"!!!
As for break-in recommendations from FCA, I usually follow them. But, who can really resist flooring it to see what that $75,000 worth of horses can do?

 

Thank You from those who offered their help. To the other a-holes who like to run off new forum members I say, "KMA"!!!

Unfortunately there are a few people on this forum who feel it necessary to shit on new members right off the bat for whatever reason. This forum isn’t nearly as bad as the good ol’ boy toxicity of the Hellcat forum, but it’s inching ever so close.

 

Ass kissing is one of my many talents....being fond of anus's as I am. Keep on floorin....

 

Your lack of resistance is dangerous and may bite you in the ass one way or another on this motor. If you only made one full power run you will probably be okay but if you did multiples you might be in trouble.

 

I'm concerned....
Why do you say that? What am I missing?
Thanks.

 

The factory says to break it in in a specific way and to ignore that could endanger the life of your very expensive engine. Like LTRaven said, if the engine fails and the computers show how you drove it you will not get warranty coverage.

 

Man the fact they can/will check that is shitty, imo. The two 6.1 SRTs I owned I ran them hard as hell from start and never had issues.

Just crazy town.

 

I also would get a blast of heat, after spirited onramp accelerations. Now that's winter, I don't notice it.

 

ok.....

 

This is exactly why I find it best to insult, belittle, and berate both old and new forum members equally.

 

I Luv It!

 

I'm an old geezer airplane pilot and Harley rider who always liked speed and rapid acceleration. So, I bought my SRT Durango and traded in my 2018 Charger Scat Pack, which I rode hard and it ran like a dream.
I have had dozens of V8 new cars and trucks and I always broke them in hard. I have been lucky and never had an engine problem with any of those. Nice, smooth idles and even acceleration, no abnormal oil consumption or rod knocks, etc.
But, the few V8's that I followed break-in guidelines religiously with ended up as rough-running oil burning pigs with latent defects that would have shown up earlier if I had rode 'em hard instead of babying them during breakin.
I don't want to hurt my new ride but I think a few rapid starts up to 120 will reassure me that all is well under the bonnet and that my Pirelli's and mag wheels don't shake my false teeth out of my mouth at 75-85mph +.

 

This thread has turned into the exact reason why forums are dead and FB groups have taken over. The old angry guys stay here, the new members move to FB.

 

The way I see it is that in every technical forum like this one where we want to exchange, seek or offer our actual topic-related experiences or advice, there are always guys like a few here that want to take over and derail the technical thread discussions by interjecting their irrelevant opinions as to how forums should work or why the discussion is useless, etc.
To all you guys: If you can't stay on topic and contribute to the discussion that the thread is dealing with, GO THE F8CK AWAY!!!
Their neediness to hear themselves pontificate and read their own drivel has no place in these kinds of technical support forums!
Goddammit, I see this crap in my car, gun, computer, smartphone, aviation, medical and other forums all the time. Either contribute to the topic of the thread or go play with yourselves in the woodshed and let the rest of us try to help each other!

 

Incorrecto. Us old guys try to go to Faceplant and then are restricted to blank, empty screens because we don't play the "friend" game that Faceplant wants. This extends to FB Groups too. It's just a bad business model that we don't want them to make money off of us. That is the "price" for privacy. FB marketplace is also a joke because everyone trying to sell something ghosts the people asking for more info or pictures or whether they will ship, etc.

 

Yet every business moves to FB because that's where the audience is. Forums had their place! But they're dead now except for the extremely small percentage who choose to boycott for whatever personal reason.

 

FB is a stock you want to buy..now.....but a cesspool to swim in.....

 

Incorrectamundo once again. I am on three very busy forums which are the best places to get good information and help on Durangos, B-Body Mopars and vending machines. You're confusing good forums with dead forums and newsgroups. Social media sites are not for people who want truth, it's for people who only want to hear what they believe and to espouse what they think is wrong and right in the world. Their opinions don't actually matter to any sane person and yet the sites all suck them in by convincing them that their thoughts do matter.

 

I have not noticed that with my SRT. Perhaps, even though the climate is OFF, the vents are actually open and you're getting warm air from the engine bay. Doesn't seem to be something to worry about.

I usually go easy on new cars for the first 500/1000 miles and will go up in RPM every 100 miles for a short distance.
I have always done that on all my new cars/motorcycles and they always performed well after break-in. There are different schools of thought with regards to break-in, but I follow whatever routine that's worked for me for the past 30 years or so.

Remember that the motor oil in a new car is NOT regular, synthetic oil, it's specifically designed for the break-in period. If you're going to go nuts, at least put some synthetic stuff in there.

 

These are just guesses about the cause of the hot air blast into the cabin, but they are common on many vehicles. First, it is common for a vehicle to automatically disengage the A/C clutch at full throttle in order to improve acceleration performance. Second, the reduction of intake manifold vacuum at full throttle can cause the heater core water shutoff valve to open. Either or both of those effects can cause a hot air blast at full power.

 

THANK YOU!!!
I was kind of thinking along the lines of the heater core valve but you explained it so I could really visualize and understand it. THANKS AGAIN.

 

Back to the original question, To me, it sounds like a Full ( or near Full Throttle) AC Compressor Cutout. I have not noticed this on my RT but I rarely hit full Throttle and never until the engine is fully warmed up, so the car would already be cooled down and less noticeable. This would only be noticeable in the summertime when you are trying cool down a hot car. I have no inside knowledge of the workings of the Computer Controls in Durango. Perhaps there is a Chrysler Controls Tech that can confirm this.

 

This has never been an issue with RTs and mine certainly doesn't do it.

 

My R/T never did the heat blast thing like my new SRT does but, the AC compressor clutch cutoff is pretty standard on all vehicles.

Again, the SRT only does the heat blast at initial full throttle acceleration. As soon as you release full pedal pressure, the heat stops, probably because the heater core valve closes.

I think that type of valve action is controlled by intake manifold vacuum levels rather than electrically or electronically?

 

A heater core valve closes off coolant from running thru the heater core. What you are calling the heater core valve is actually the temperature control blend door. Which isn't actuated by vacuum, but electrically driven actuators and gears. Even the recirculation door is driven electrically now.