[Spong]

I'm getting ready to hardwire a Valentine One radar detector in my Durango like I've been doing on all my vehicles for 25+ years.

Couple questions, where's a good place to get Ignition switched 12V power inside? There's a keyed DC plug at the front of the console but it's been my experience those have accessory 12V and I want only 12V with the ignition in the run position. When I had this V1 in my Town & Country, I had to run a wire to the fusebox under the hood to get switched power. I'm hoping there's a place inside on the Durango so I don't have to go through the firewall.

Second question, any special tips to popping off the A pillar inside trim? Usually it's just clips but I want to ask first rather than end up breaking something.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Moose135]

You can use a MirrorTap connection to plug into the power for the mirror, no need to run something to the fusebox. Here's an old thread on it. I installed an Escort Redline that way.

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/...ussions-2014/14769-radar-detector-installed-2014-durango-mirrortap-install.html

 

[Spong]

Thanks for the reply. I use the concealed display with my V1s so those mirror taps are not an option for me.

 

[76Aspen]

Apparently Fuse 96 in the assembly power distribution center is a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN mode, and apparently only serves the "lamp-flashlight" which I assume is the little rechargeable unit in the back left of the vehicle?

If you don't have a sunroof, then Fuse F66 is also a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN/START modes.

 

[ekaz]

I can confirm that the outlet in the console is active in accessory mode.

 

[Spong]

Apparently Fuse 96 in the assembly power distribution center is a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN mode, and apparently only serves the "lamp-flashlight" which I assume is the little rechargeable unit in the back left of the vehicle?

If you don't have a sunroof, then Fuse F66 is also a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN/START modes.

Thanks for the info! I still have to go to the fuseblock under the hood though right?

I can confirm that the outlet in the console is active in accessory mode.

Yeah, I confirmed that too. Dang it!

 

[ekaz]

Yeah, I confirmed that too. Dang it!

Still used it for my radar detector though cause it doesn't bother me that much.

 

[Spong]

Still used it for my radar detector though cause it doesn't bother me that much.

I'll most likely end up poking a wire through the firewall to the fuse block. I liked it better when the fuse blocks were inside the cabin!

 

[ekaz]

I'll most likely end up poking a wire through the firewall to the fuse block. I liked it better when the fuse blocks were inside the cabin!

Much better. Nice little fuse tap and done.

 

[Moose135]

I'll most likely end up poking a wire through the firewall to the fuse block. I liked it better when the fuse blocks were inside the cabin!

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/durango-discussions-2014/55689-firewall-through-access.html
http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/durango-discussions-2014/24519-wiring-through-firewall.html

 

[76Aspen]

"Originally Posted by 76Aspen View Post
Apparently Fuse 96 in the assembly power distribution center is a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN mode, and apparently only serves the "lamp-flashlight" which I assume is the little rechargeable unit in the back left of the vehicle?

If you don't have a sunroof, then Fuse F66 is also a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN/START modes."

"Thanks for the info! I still have to go to the fuseblock under the hood though right?"

I don't know. In the "good old days" vehicle wiring sets were all alike and if you did not have an option (such as a sunroof), the wire was still there, just not plugged up to anything. But that is probably not the case anymore. Probably save 7 cents by having a wiring set without the sunroof connector. I personally would not run a wire through the firewall, but that is more or less laziness on my part.

 

[tomk]

Kind of a wild guess, based on the '14 GC wiring diagrams:
There should be a pink with yellow tracer wire going to the in-car ambient temp sensor in the dash.. This should be hot in run only. Whether this is true in your rig is not clear.

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Tom any in overhead of the JGC should be similar in Durango that will have same power source.
I got the Harness from Blend mount
STEVE

 

[Spong]

"Originally Posted by 76Aspen View Post
Apparently Fuse 96 in the assembly power distribution center is a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN mode, and apparently only serves the "lamp-flashlight" which I assume is the little rechargeable unit in the back left of the vehicle?

If you don't have a sunroof, then Fuse F66 is also a 10A circuit that is active in the RUN/START modes."

"Thanks for the info! I still have to go to the fuseblock under the hood though right?"

I don't know. In the "good old days" vehicle wiring sets were all alike and if you did not have an option (such as a sunroof), the wire was still there, just not plugged up to anything. But that is probably not the case anymore. Probably save 7 cents by having a wiring set without the sunroof connector. I personally would not run a wire through the firewall, but that is more or less laziness on my part.

With a meter, I've always been able to find a place somewhere on the inside fuse block to get power. There are often unmarked points where power is present but every car is different. It's getting hard to tap into power now with these tiny micro fuses.

I haven't had time to look at the Durango in depth, but a nice cleanly run 14ga wire from the underhood fuse block provides a good switched source inside for the detector or any other things I want to add. I prefer this over cutting or tapping into OEM wiring inside.

 

[Spong]

Well I finally got around to doing this today. I was originally going to go thru the firewall on the driver's side and run the wire along the engine bay. After looking under the dash at both sides, I found a nice plug just perfect for poking the wire through on the passenger side. So I tapped into a Run position hot point on the fuse block and ran the wire inside.

Here's the plug on the passenger side of the firewall when I found it.

After wire

Finished setup

 

[silverunicorn]

Well I finally got around to doing this today. I was originally going to go thru the firewall on the driver's side and run the wire along the engine bay. After looking under the dash at both sides, I found a nice plug just perfect for poking the wire through on the passenger side. So I tapped into a Run position hot point on the fuse block and ran the wire inside.

Here's the plug on the passenger side of the firewall when I found it.

View attachment 82209

After wire

View attachment 82217

Finished setup

View attachment 82225
View attachment 82233
View attachment 82241
View attachment 82249

Very clean install! Did you just tuck the wire behind the trim panels?

Looks pro, but I would expect nothign less from you after knowing you on the TB forum

Great work!

Chris

 

[Spong]

Very clean install! Did you just tuck the wire behind the trim panels?

Looks pro, but I would expect nothign less from you after knowing you on the TB forum

Great work!

Chris

Thanks! Yes, the wire for the main unit up top runs under the A pillar trim then under the headliner to the unit. The wire for the concealed display on the column runs under the dash then up and out under the column. I've done it this way on every vehicle.

Speaking of the TB, I whacked a deer with it last Sunday. Busted the grill and the AC condenser behind it. First accident with the TB in the 11.5 years we've had it. She goes for a nose job Wednesday.