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For anyone with a 2014 Durango Limited (not an SXT!), I can confirm that the JDM AStar 3157s (item #JDM ASTAR-3157-5730-21Y) found on Amazon do in fact work right out of the package with no resistors necessary. My Durango has the LED DRL strips under the headlights, along with the LED supplementary signals in the mirrors (I'm assuming all Durangos with the "racetrack" tails have LED in the rear). I was a BIT skeptical, as earlier references to these bulbs seemed to be from guys who have SXT trim and I don't believe that trim has the LED DRLs or supplementary mirror signals. Other comments/recommendations were from owners of 2013. Furthermore, the product description on the Amazon page DOES state: "Note you might need to add 50W 6-Ohm load resistors or change flasher rely to prevent the LED bulbs from hyper flashing". Given that the two locally purchased options I tried (see below) needed resistors to work right, I wasn't overly confident.

Since I'm impatient, and because I could get them right away, I tried the Pilot 3157A bulbs that claimed to be CANBUS-Ready from Wally World, and they worked as HAZARDS (although I don't think they were much brighter than the incandescent bulbs), but not as turn signals- I got the 'bulb out' error on the dash and the dash indicators and mirror lights hyper-flashed. I got the SAME result using the Sylvania ZEVO Super Bright 3157A LED bulbs from AutoZone: hazards flashed normally, but using the actual TURN SIGNAL caused the hyper-flashing indicators/mirrors and a "bulb out" error. I did NOT try the Sylvania LED 3157A bulbs that were also available at AutoZone.

Again, I tried those two bulbs only because they were locally available and I could try them right away. Once I found they would require resisitors I returned them both and ordered the JDM AStars (ordered on Friday 9/30, they were delivered today 10/2, a Sunday. Thanks Amazon Prime!). I was a bit skeptical if these would work right out of the box on my Limited, but I quickly installed the passenger bulb (since that one takes all of 30 seconds to swap), and first off, I was thrilled when I oriented it correctly the first time (quick test: hit your remote unlock button, and the signals flash- if your LED bulb doesn't light up, turn it around and re-seat it). The initial act was to activate the hazards which of course worked fine (supplementary signals do NOT light up with the hazards), then I turned the Durango on and activated the turn signal. I expected a few flashes then the error, but no error was noted! So I swapped in the driver side bulb (that side is NOT just a 30 second swap...I want to throat punch the engineer who arranged that! Although even with moving the airbox around, it's only a couple minute job, but it's a tight squeeze on the forearm), and then took a short drive to get some coffee, and no errors popped up even with all the left and right turns I need to make to get around the maze of one-way streets near my house.

I hope this might help someone who's running a Durango that DOES have the LED DRLs/Supplementary mirror signals to know that these JDM AStars DO work, and are pretty darn bright as well. For my money, they should do the job pretty well. I obviously can't yet speak to the durability...that remains to be seen, but you can get four sets of these bulbs shipped to you for less than one pair of the Amber-only Triton V3s ($110/pr). The JDM AStars may not be as bright as the Tritons, but they ARE brighter than stock to my eye. I don't have pics/vids, but perhaps if requested, I can do so.
 

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For anyone with a 2014 Durango Limited (not an SXT!), I can confirm that the JDM AStar 3157s (item #JDM ASTAR-3157-5730-21Y) found on Amazon do in fact work right out of the package with no resistors necessary. My Durango has the LED DRL strips under the headlights, along with the LED supplementary signals in the mirrors (I'm assuming all Durangos with the "racetrack" tails have LED in the rear). I was a BIT skeptical, as earlier references to these bulbs seemed to be from guys who have SXT trim and I don't believe that trim has the LED DRLs or supplementary mirror signals. Other comments/recommendations were from owners of 2013. Furthermore, the product description on the Amazon page DOES state: "Note you might need to add 50W 6-Ohm load resistors or change flasher rely to prevent the LED bulbs from hyper flashing". Given that the two locally purchased options I tried (see below) needed resistors to work right, I wasn't overly confident.

Since I'm impatient, and because I could get them right away, I tried the Pilot 3157A bulbs that claimed to be CANBUS-Ready from Wally World, and they worked as HAZARDS (although I don't think they were much brighter than the incandescent bulbs), but not as turn signals- I got the 'bulb out' error on the dash and the dash indicators and mirror lights hyper-flashed. I got the SAME result using the Sylvania ZEVO Super Bright 3157A LED bulbs from AutoZone: hazards flashed normally, but using the actual TURN SIGNAL caused the hyper-flashing indicators/mirrors and a "bulb out" error. I did NOT try the Sylvania LED 3157A bulbs that were also available at AutoZone.

Again, I tried those two bulbs only because they were locally available and I could try them right away. Once I found they would require resisitors I returned them both and ordered the JDM AStars (ordered on Friday 9/30, they were delivered today 10/2, a Sunday. Thanks Amazon Prime!). I was a bit skeptical if these would work right out of the box on my Limited, but I quickly installed the passenger bulb (since that one takes all of 30 seconds to swap), and first off, I was thrilled when I oriented it correctly the first time (quick test: hit your remote unlock button, and the signals flash- if your LED bulb doesn't light up, turn it around and re-seat it). The initial act was to activate the hazards which of course worked fine (supplementary signals do NOT light up with the hazards), then I turned the Durango on and activated the turn signal. I expected a few flashes then the error, but no error was noted! So I swapped in the driver side bulb (that side is NOT just a 30 second swap...I want to throat punch the engineer who arranged that! Although even with moving the airbox around, it's only a couple minute job, but it's a tight squeeze on the forearm), and then took a short drive to get some coffee, and no errors popped up even with all the left and right turns I need to make to get around the maze of one-way streets near my house.

I hope this might help someone who's running a Durango that DOES have the LED DRLs/Supplementary mirror signals to know that these JDM AStars DO work, and are pretty darn bright as well. For my money, they should do the job pretty well. I obviously can't yet speak to the durability...that remains to be seen, but you can get four sets of these bulbs shipped to you for less than one pair of the Amber-only Triton V3s ($110/pr). The JDM AStars may not be as bright as the Tritons, but they ARE brighter than stock to my eye. I don't have pics/vids, but perhaps if requested, I can do so.
might have to try them if they truly are plug and play... was considering the Sylvania Zevo 3157 Amber and adding resistors.. but I'd be about $30 going that route while having to tap in the resistors... but for $25, and no wiring, gunna have to try these.. thanks for the detailed post on them... as I will be putting them in a 2014 Limited as well!
 

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And no resistor needed?
 

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One of the questions in the Amazon ad asked about needing a resistor and the seller responded at yes, one needed to be added. That's not Durango-specific but buyer beware...
 

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No resistor added. Now I dont know if that will work for all years/models, but for me no issues as all. Simple bulb swap.

 

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Installed LED turn signals today. I got the bulbs from Automotive Lighting & Accessories: HID Kits | LEDs | Audio/Video. After reading the forum and comparing all the different types I figured I would give these a shot from a local Seattle company. I went with the "3157 3057 4157 – 30W CREE LED Bulb" for $29.99. They also have an 80w for $39.99 but I compared the lumins between 30w and 80w, the 30w is slightly brighter than stock. They are plug and play out of the box. No errors/alerts/rapid flashing or any resistors needed, just the led bulb.
IMG_1410.JPG
IMG_1409.JPG

Install was simple. I did have to loosen the coolant reservoir on the pax side cause my man hands couldn't quite squeeze behind it. Driver side was simple cause the K&N is much easier to get behind than the stock air filter.
IMG_1412.JPG
IMG_1413.JPG

Left (pax) side is the new LED, right (driver) side is stock bulb.
IMG_1433.JPG
 

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Looks great, going to check them out!
 

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Did you also do your backup lights? Looks good. I want to do signals and backups.
Thanks! Backup LED and HID fog/headlights are all on the to-do list. Nothing ordered yet.
 

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Installed LED turn signals today. I got the bulbs from Automotive Lighting & Accessories: HID Kits | LEDs | Audio/Video. After reading the forum and comparing all the different types I figured I would give these a shot from a local Seattle company. I went with the "3157 3057 4157 — 30W CREE LED Bulb" for $29.99. They also have an 80w for $39.99 but I compared the lumins between 30w and 80w, the 30w is slightly brighter than stock. They are plug and play out of the box. No errors/alerts/rapid flashing or any resistors needed, just the led bulb.
View attachment 49817
View attachment 49825

Install was simple. I did have to loosen the coolant reservoir on the pax side cause my man hands couldn't quite squeeze behind it. Driver side was simple cause the K&N is much easier to get behind than the stock air filter.
View attachment 49833
View attachment 49841

Left (pax) side is the new LED, right (driver) side is stock bulb.
View attachment 49849
Funny how different the coolant tank is on the 3.6 vs the 5.7. Was nothing to move on mine to get to the passenger bulb.
 

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Thanks! Backup LED and HID fog/headlights are all on the to-do list. Nothing ordered yet.
Funny how things work...this morning I got a front right signal out message...went and ordered the same bulbs you installed. Thanks again for the info.
 

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Tried installing LED switchbacks on my SXT+....the new LED lit up white with parking lights on (like it should) and blinked at the normal speed with the turn signal. However, the inside turn indicator hyper-blinked, and I had a bulb out warning/chime.

For those of us to have to use a resistor to cancel the bulb out/hyper-blink issue, where and how did you mount the resistors?

After poking around under my hood, it seems the best place would be the steel radiator support/frame cross bar just under the hood behind the radiator. There are some holes already stamped in the bar, if I can find a self tapping sheet metal screw of the proper size. The holes are slightly larger than 1/4" and smaller than 5/16", tested with drill bits to try to gauge size.

Thoughts?
 
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