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Discussion Starter #1
Getting that distinctive popping noise from the passenger side front CV joint, so its time for an axle. Got the part, was going to rent a wheel bearing puller and have at it. Anyone know of any surprises waiting for me that I can prepare for or is it a relatively straightforward swap?

  • pull wheel, brake, rotor, etc off.
  • Pull the wheel bearing
  • Yank out the old axle
  • Reverse procedure with the new axle.
Sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So doing the CV axle was surprisingly easy, pull all the brake hardware off the hub, pop off the steering tire rod end and the upper ball joint so you can get the axle out of the hub, put a big crowbar on the far end of the axle by the differential and a couple good pops and out it comes.

Unfortunately it did NOT resolve the problem which is a popping-ish noise that seems to come from the passenger side front wheel area when backing up at full steering angles.

Any other thoughts for what it might be?
 

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Mayhem:
Sorry to hear that the new axle did not cure the issue. My '04 had a similar noise under the same scenario, pulling into or out of a parking space with with the wheel at left lock. I tightened up the lug nuts on both front wheels, after finding the RF lugs hand tight. I had been tightening them to 100 ft lbs. Turns out, the FSM calls for 140 ft lbs!
No problems since. (fingers crossed)
If your lugs are to spec, then I would look at ball joints.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ball joints are all good, 3 out of 4 replaced in the last 3 years, 4th one is still solid, just checked them all. I've replaced almost every part of the front of this truck in the last 4 years...shocks, ball joints, sway bar endlinks, steering rack, one wheel bearing. I'm due for a sticker so I need to get the MIL taken care of and drive it...this is my last planned sticker for this vehicle, wife is due for a new-to-her SUV next spring.

I've got all 4 wheels up in the air now, locked in 4wd so both fronts will move at the same time, I can't hear anything except the rubber bellows on the cv axle squeaking a bit from being a full lock.

I've been torquing my lugs to about 100lb too so I'm going to give this a shot. I'm encouraged by your success!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Don, you are THE MAN!!

Left 2 and right rear were pretty snug, all bolts gave a bit at 140lb. Right front was the one I had off to do the axle and I'm positive I torqued it to around 100lb. Drove it around and it felt considerably tighter..heard one clunk in about 20 minutes versus several per minute...I'm thinking that axle might have been bad regardless because its been doing it for awhile now, even after I just had 4 new tires put on and since the other 3 tires were torqued properly its reasonable to assume the 4th one was too...something else had to be making that popping noise. Thats what I'll tell myself anyway.

Thanks very much!

In other good news, a new leak detection pump seems to have gotten rid of the gascap message and I hope the P0457 MIL. Now just waiting to see if the Evap Purge Valve that wasn't holding a full seal so I replaced it takes care of the P0456.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Grrrrr! Still making a clunk when I go full lock to the left. Always seems to be low speeds, backing up to turn around, pulling out of a side street, etc.

Maybe the sway bar end links? Front driveshaft u-joints?
 

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Mayhem:
I was hoping that tightening up your nuts would have been the solution, after all, it seemed to work for me! 😂😂😂
I would not think steering angle would affect the front shaft U joints. My oem end links were done last year. During a PM, I found the top of one missing. That end of the sway bar was flapping in the breeze.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I replaced the end links when I did the front shocks, that was probably 3 years ago now...probably around 50k miles and I think I went low budget so maybe they're due. I do hear and feel a bit of a rattle when I go over rr crossings and such. Not really a satisfying enough answer for why the front end clunks at full lock to the left though, but probably worth chasing.

My MIL cleared and I just need a taillight bulb and I'm good to get what should be the alst inspection sticker I'll be putting on this truck. Still in good shape, but the rust is starting to take over more and more. It'll be time for a new ride next spring...but maybe the D will go to one of the kids.
 

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Possibly some hardware from the install has come loose. That lower bolt on the control arm is a tough one to tighten, and they spec it a 125 ft lbs. I got mine as tight as I could with the tools I had, but likely nowhere near that.

Don
 

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The horizontal one that goes from the end link, to the front of the LCA.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The lower sway bar endlink bolt? That seems like a really big torque for that, but I'll check it.

Checking online, on an 04 RAM 1500, which should be at least pretty similar, it looks like it ought to be 75lb.


Do you happen to have a complete list for front end torque specs for an 07 Durango? I feel like I should just recheck everything if I've been possibly using the wrong specs.
 
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