I think you have the 45RFE tranny like I do, so there should be two filters and no bands to tighten. Be sure to clean the magnetic metal shaving collector real well. What fluid do you plan on using?

 

Welcome TJ!

On the fluid, go back in with ATF+4 and get a real Mopar filter.

On your 4.7l mated tranny? there are no bands to adjust.

When doing the tranny, I find that's the perfect time to service the diffs also. 75w90 Mobil1

HTH,

IndyDurango

 

You have a 545RFE, so there's no governor pressure solenoid.

Your transmission has two filters. The "main" filter must be installed correctly, or it'll suck air and trash the transmission. You need to get a new seal for that filter (don't know if it comes with the filter or not)

See attached.

?tom

 

X2 what Tom said
I can't believe Dealer is such a PUTZ that he doesn't know the info.
2 filters copy what Tom sent you and Live By it!
Get that seal in place correctly
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Per the gazillion other posts re tranny issues, I did get Mopar ATF+4 and both filters.
No Gov. Pressure Solenoid on a 4.7? :wall: I read him like a book?glad I play poker!
Tom, Thanks for the tip re the main filter seal! I forgot to ask, is there a recommended RTV for the pan?

TJBONAZ

 

I forgot to ask, is there a recommended RTV for the pan?

TJBONAZ

Mopar brand is fine. If you don't go that route, any "Automotive" RTV will do. Black is preferred as it has the requisite additives to help prevent oil from degrading it. Red is hi-temp, isn't required for this service, and may not have the additives it needs for long life in oil. Blue is probably OK, but read the label carefully to see if it's suitable for oil service.
If in doubt, stick with the black RTV.

Joe

 

FWIW I used the blue RTV (Permatex brand, I think?) on the GC's tranny pan and many times on my other vehicles as well, and it's been just ducky. Never had a leak due to sealant failure. Have had problems being too lazy to get all the old stuff off, so make sure you do that.

I don't know if these are the same, but the pan on the GC was sealed SO TIGHT after the bolts were removed, it took a lot of massaging to break that factory pan seal. Pain in the hiney.

 

Thanks for the RTV tips!
I checked my Stealership receipt and notice the GPS item is "Transducer, Pressure Sensor". Is this something different he thought was a GPS? They had to order and it came in today, so I'm wondering if I should keep/replace or forget about it?

TJBONAZ

 

this is the only sensor I could find that sounds anything like that?

this regulates line pressure, which will affect shift quality slightly (but not the shift points, as governor pressure would)?

 

I just did my first tranny service last weekend, so its still fresh in my mind. I just went with the black Mopar sealant, Mopar filters, the main and the screw on type and Mopar ATF 4 tranny fluid. I also had the surging your describing and I dumped in fuel injector cleaner a few weeks back, filled the tank with gas, visted my son out in college and put on about 500 miles round trip. The injector cleaner did the trick. Do your diffs and your transfer case while your under there as well. Just get a suction tool, suck out the old diff fluid and replace. Piece of cake. **NOTE** You may have to get a smaller oil filter wrench to filt the spin on tranny filter.

 

RJL?Can I get this suction tool at Autozone? I assume this is done through the plug on the differential? How do I know how much to put in the differentials? I'll check my filter wrench size tonite, thanks!

TJBONAZ

 

Marine stores and some auto catalogs have an oil changer pump that works wonderfully for this. It's electrically powered off your batery. You feed the suction hose through the fill plug and move it around to the lowest point of the diferential. The brand that I like is made by ITT Jabsco, but it's rather expensive, but I have seen inexpensive one in J.C. Whitney.

IIRC it takes a total of 3 qts to do both differentials.

 

TJ, I got mine at autozone. It was 15 bucks or so. You can also use it to fill up your transfer case after you've drained that as well. And you're correct, just pop off the plugs, suck the old fluid out and refill with the 75W 90 gear lube. Your tranny case takes ATF 3 I believe. Get yourself a Chiltons or Haines repair manual, Gives you all the specs, capacities and the like. My dealership was outstanding, they ran my vin, told me what tranny I had and what exactly I needed. I ran down there, picked everything up and had the tranny, diffs and transfer case drained and refilled in a few hours. It took me a little longer than most, I've never done that before. Oh, get some gasket remover from autozone while your at it and spray it on your tranny pan and get all the old sealant off. No gasket to worry about either.

Good luck.

Bob

 

The tranny fluid change went without a hitch, thanks to everyone's help! I wasn't able to locate an oil changer pump, so the diffs will wait till I get one.

TJBONAZ

 

Glad it all went well give it a day or so then Top off fluid as necessary
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Well, I'm still having the odd behavior of, when cold, staying in 1st gear through 2-2.5k rpms (and very loud) until it warms (run a couple miles.) In addition to the tranny fluid change, I've replaced the TPS. Any ideas?

TJBONAZ

 

Could it be your Clutch fan staying on too long when cold making it seem like its struggling
Steve
DOC Pres[/b]

 

Hmmm. I had a new fan-clutch put on just prior to this symptom showing. Can I adjust it's turn-off point?

Thanks
TJBONAZ

 

No but it could be a generic replacement and they're sometimes fickle
On Your 4.7 you can see if the fan is what's up by completely removing Clutch fan assembly as your truck is outfitted with a factory electric so it won't overheat
If condition Improves Replace Clutch fan or replace electric with something stronger and eliminate the clutch fan
Or I have my Clutch fan I took off my 01 4.7

Steve
DOC Pres

 

I forgot to ask, is there a recommended RTV for the pan?

TJBONAZ

Mopar brand is fine. If you don't go that route, any "Automotive" RTV will do. Black is preferred as it has the requisite additives to help prevent oil from degrading it. Red is hi-temp, isn't required for this service, and may not have the additives it needs for long life in oil. Blue is probably OK, but read the label carefully to see if it's suitable for oil service.
If in doubt, stick with the black RTV.

Joe

Awww SHUCKS! I just changed the TF last month and all I had in the shop was red so I used it. Oh well?I plan on dropping the pan - hopefully replace it - in the Spring anyway.

On a side note, the reason I dropped the pan wasn't just to change the oil but also look for a small leak. Every once in a while I noticed a few drops of fluid on the pavement and was losing about a quart every month since July.

Turns out the leak wasn't from the pan like I suspected, but from a line going to the cooler in the radiator. No matter what I did I couldn't clamp it tight enough so I replaced the clamp with a new one.

No dice, still leaked. Sooo I shortened the hose and put two clamps on and it still leaks a tiny bit.

Thing is the hose (on the line FROM the cooler) connects to a BRASS FITTING (on the line from the tranny) IS that stock? I don't recall seeing a brass fitting on any other vehicle I've worked on. Why can't I just connect the hose to the steel line from the tranny? Why the braass fitting and why only on one of the lines? (IIRC it's the one closest to the ground)

I know this is kinda confusing so I'll try and get a pic and post to a new thread tomorrow. Basically I'm thinking about replacing the whole thing with new parts. It'd be nice to wait until Spring to do that though?

prisoner6