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Discussion Starter #1
This may be a dumb question, but I'm not really mechanically inclined. The environment selector switch in my 99' SLT only works in defrost. Do I need a new switch and is putting a new one in a "easy fix"?
 

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It could be the switch or a vacuum source.
 

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Defrost is the "default" setting if there's no vacuum to the selector switch to move the doors so it's most likely a vacuum issue. I had the same symptom on my 98 a few years back and it turned out the vacuum check valve was clogged up. On my 98 it was located on the driver's side beside the power brake booster and "should" be the same on your 99.



FYI, it's a "one-way" valve so make sure you put it back on the same way it came off. Also, If blowing thru it to check if it's blocked doesn't work, [highlight]DO NOT[/highlight] try sucking on it (been there, done that, got the nasty taste in my mouth to prove it!! :wall:) Flip it around instead and try blowing thru it from the other side. If it's clogged, you'll see a lot of black crud come out.

If it's not the check valve, then look at the vacuum supply line which runs across the firewall to ensure the hoses to the heater-A/C control, speed control and vacuum reservoir under the cowl are still attached. If none of those are loose/bad, then it's gonna be either a vacuum hose in the dash or the selector switch itself. I've never had to pull the heater-A/C control section on mine, but have read on here it can be a real PITA to get it out and back in!

Good luck!
 

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Al and everyone, I'm on my 2nd Durango now and have yet to find this "environment" switch??

I'm really excited about it though and hope when the weather here in Ohio is cold and snowy, I can operate it and bring about an instant sunny and 70° day! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Don
 

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Big Al's correct, that's common issue on older D's.
There have also been a few who found that line to be broken or disconnected from the firewall.
Look at the diagram and trace out the lines from the manifold to the firewall and you should find your problem.
Steve
DOC Pres
 

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More than likely when you were changing the back plug on the drivers side you knocked the vacuum line off the tee at the firewall. It's happened to others before!
Steve
DOC Pres
 

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Don Fox said:
Al and everyone, I'm on my 2nd Durango now and have yet to find this "environment" switch??
Don
Somebody here in the northeast clearly set the environment selector to "heat" today; 94°F on April 16th is insane! Leah and I were on Cape Cod for the long weekend and we went out to Nauset Beach at 8am today before heading home and it felt like a July morning; still air, warm and humid.
 

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We hit 88 here as well yesterday! :(

If we're already hitting the high 80's in April, just imagine what July will be like? Perhaps we need a club swimming pool at Carlisle??
 

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Not good for me, my front A/C appears to not be working. The control goes from heat to no heat, but it never gets cold. The rear A/C and the pipes get cold, but it appears to not be getting to the front evaporator and I can't tell if the front evaporator is getting cold.

Seems a little strange to me that the front isn't getting cold. Anyone know if there's a way the doors can screw up so they bypass both the heater core and the A/C evaporator?
 

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Taz, do you hear the mode doors functioning? If not, then check the vacuum supply as referenced in this listing. If you do hear the doors functioning, you may have a blocked H-valve in the front A/C that needs replacing. Good luck.
 

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I can tell the air is switching from floor, to upper vents, to defrost. I did have trouble with that eariler, but I gave the vacuum system a wiggle here and there and it went away. I noticed a few weeks back that the A/C up front never blows cold air. I think I can hear the door doing the right thing and I can switch from heated air to cooler air, but I never get cold air.

I see in the service manual there's a door that flips to bypass the heater core, but it looks from the drawing like it might be two doors and I was thinking one might be moving but not the other. I was just wondering if that was a possibility? In the end, the whole dash has to come out anyway and The book isn't giving me a good understanding of how everything is put together under there. :(

I had the H-valve replaced when the heater core was done, guess I should have left it alone. lol or crying out loud more the case here.
 

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You could have a bad switch or something not working the mode doors properly. I'd pull the switch and use a hand vacuum pump like those used for brake bleeding to test for proper functioning of the doors to find what's actually wrong with your system.
 

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I want to put an A/C switch in my 99. I'm not liking the invisible snowflake anymore and would like the ability to have both floor and dash vents going without the A/C turning on.

83 here today, Tuesday was in the low 90's.
 

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Squeeze the clamp with a pair of piers and move it up the hose so that it's off of the fitting. Twist the hose carefully to break it's adhesion to the fitting or use a hose removal tool to break the hose from sticking to the fitting and remove. If the hose is original, replacement may be necessary.
 

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Channel locks work fine, however they do make a special tool for those types of clamps. It'll likely slip a few times before you get it figured out, clamped tight in the open position enough to work the hose off.

+1 on a nice hose puller. Just used one last month for the first time in my life and it indeed makes things easier.

IndyDurango
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I took my 99' D to the mechanic to have my vent issues diagnosed and was told I needed a "panel defrost door actuator." The dealer quoted me a price of about $68 for the part and the mechanic estimates a $300 repair cost. Is this a difficult part to replace? Where's it located in my 99' D? Does the whole dash have to come out?
 
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