[stoopalini]

You can pop off the SRT button on your SRT center stack and put it on your TNG center stack

I tried to pop them off a while ago and stopped because I thought I was going to break the panel. Do they just pop off with force, or are there any clips or release mechanism of some sort?

I'm thinking the ECO button is probably the better one to repurpose, since we never use that physical button and I believe Whipple will disable ECO in the supercharger tune anyway. I know they disable MDS for certain, and am thinking also ECO.

 

[80363]

They come off with a lot of force, a small pick or screwdriver helps. I broke the first SRT panel I took apart, but after getting it all apart I figured it out.

From everything I can gather ECO mode on the 2021+ RTs only deactivates or changes the characteristics of MDS. I’m keeping MDS enabled in my tune even after the supercharger because some of the reason I bought a TnG over a 392 was the fuel mileage, even though the 392 also has MDS, the fuel mileage doesn’t compare to the TnG.
On the 2021+ 392 models ECO mode changes the transmission and possibly how sensitive MDS is, but I haven’t looked at a 392 ECM file to confirm.
On the HC models ECO mode only changes the transmission. Again, I could be wrong on some of this, this is just what I’ve gathered.
I noticed on the TnG with Drive Modes pages enabled the transmission does not start in 2nd gear like in the 392 and HC models when in ECO mode, even though it says it does in the description. I know this is only because the Drive Modes pages are for the 392 and HC, not the TnG which has different trans tuning.

 

[stoopalini]

Hmm, I've never had ECO start out in 2nd. Snow will do this, but I don't recall ECO ever doing it.

Where are you seeing this in the documentation? Here's what I'm finding in the SRT Drive Mode supplemental:

From digging through the canbus messaging, I've surmised that ECO is actually treated as a sub-configuration of Auto drive mode. Like Suspension, or Steering, etc .. is for Custom. It's not really it's own drive mode.

For the button repurpose, what I'm going to do is write code with variables to control the ECO button or Snow button being repurposed as SRT, and provide some user input through ICS buttons to select which one. If ECO is selected for repurpose, I'll set the ECO button LED to light up when Custom drive mode is selected. So you can leave the ECO button in place and have the LED function as a Custom drive mode selection (maybe with a vinyl overlay to relabel it) or you can swap out the button for the SRT button which doesn't have an opening for the LED to shine through; but the LED would still be lighting up behind it when Custom mode is selected (you just won't see it)

I think I can set it up where the user could hold a button down on the ICS (maybe mute?) and then press the button they want to repurpose. So hold mute and press Snow to repurpose it, or hold mute and press ECO to repurpose that one. Do the same to undo the repurpose, etc ...

 

[stoopalini]

Here's the only mention of starting out in 2nd gear I can find ...

 

[stoopalini]

So the hazard button pops out pretty easily, held on by two tabs at the top.

It's probably better to get that out of the way 1st. Before I realized that, I had already removed the left side though.

I used a small iPhone repair flat head screwdriver. Sliding it in at the base of the button, then twisting slightly and prying with light pressure. This causes the top pivot on that side of the button to pop out.

Then it's a matter of preventing that side from popping back in while you do the same to the other side.

The buttons themselves are two pieces: A base and a cover. They come apart with three slide tabs.

The SRT button base does not have the LED light pipe and the cover doesn't have the cutout for a light pipe ... but it does have the molding of where the cutout would be

Here's the launch button parts ... you can see the light pipe on the base:

and the cutout in the cover:

So my current thought is to get a drill bit, or a honing bit, or a small router bit, that is the correct size for the light pipe cutout, and run it through from the inside, to create the light pipe cutout in the SRT button cover.

Then removed the ECO button from the TnG panel, separate the button pieces, and put the modified SRT button cover on.

So I would have an OEM SRT button along with an LED.

Then in the code, I'll repurpose the ECO button for the SRT button functionality, and configure the LED to light when Custom drive mode is active.

 

[stoopalini]

Ahhhh, so I just realized the buttons are sized/shaped differently based on their position on the panel ...

So maybe a vinyl overlay is the best option here, unless I want to put the SRT button where the Tow button is located. And I don't think I want to do that.

 

[80363]

2nd gear launch in eco mode is in one of the 392/HC supplemental owners manuals, I’ll try to find it later.

Also, for anyone that might find it useful, you can enable Off Road Pages with Alfa. It works as intended, however it’s for a Grand Cherokee so that’s what’s displayed in the Pitch and Roll section. Idk if I’ll keep it on there or not.

 

[stoopalini]

The one thing that's a bit useful in the Off Road pages is the ability to see when AWD vs RWD is active. Other than that, I didn't find any real value in it either.

 

[stoopalini]

.

 

[stoopalini]

I know it's been a while since any update has been given here, so thought I would provide one.

The setup has been working flawlessly for weeks, and has been great! Here's a 4 minute video demonstrating the current state of the solution:

I've still been unable to get the "Sport" mode splash and icon to work in the cluster, and I'm starting to think it may be a cluster firmware issue and not a canbus messaging issue. It's not a big deal, but an annoyance and really the final thing to work out for drive modes to be 100% as they are in the SRT, working along side the TnG panel drive buttons.

Launch control seems to be dependent on the cluster cooperating as well, and since it appears the RT and SRT clusters have different firmware on them, I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get Launch working with the R/T cluster. I've thought about switching to an SRT or Hellcat cluster, but I really don't like the analog speedomoter replacing the analog tachometer. It's weird to me the performance version has a speedo instead of a tach, but oh well ...

After I got pretty frustrated with the whole "Sport" splash thing, I decided to take a break from it and started focusing on the hardware package. The setup thus far has been the Teensy controller with a large 3-can shield sitting on it, tucked behind the driver's side dash end cap, with the wires shoved in screw terminals.

This has been fine from a development perspective, but I don't want to leave something like that for years to come; so I started working on a more durable and compact design.

@F8HEMI found this small dual-can shield for the Teensy, so we picked this up to try out:

Since we don't need to interface with the C-bus, we really only need two can controllers anyway, and this little thing is absolutely perfect! It sites right on top, so it doesn't take any additional realestate except a bit of height.

Doing it this way meant we also had to then devise a power solution to reduce the vehicle's 12v - 14.4v down to 5v. In the current setup, the large 3-can shield does this for us ... so I picked up these little buck converters, which do the job nicely. There are smaller ones out there, but I chose these because they're rated to 5 amps, which is extreme overkill for a simple dual-can Teensy setup; but I wanted to toy around with adding an LED strip behind the center hood scoop. So 5A gives me the power overhead I need to do that.

Then I grabbed an old LED controller I had laying around and repurposed the enclosure for my new design. I was able to fit everything neatly inside, and incorporate JST connectors for everything (power, canbus and an LED strip) while also leaving the USB port of the Teensy exposed.

So instead of this:

I'll have this (USB thumb drive provided as a size reference):

Here's a look inside ....

I'm much more comfortable with this package sitting behind the dash for years to come rather than the exposed electronics of the development setup.

I also started playing around with different LED strip modes. Like remaining solid but changing colors with drive mode selection, or changing intensity with RPM, or going to a "Knight Rider" scan when stopped at idle then increasing scanning speed as RPMs increase and going solid around 2k RPM, etc, etc ...

Here's a 30 second video showing the box and an LED strip connected:

Having access to the canbus communications definitely makes a lot of things possible here

I also now have an unlocked PCM installed and a red key paired to the vehicle, so I tried to get "Black Key" reduced power mode going, but it doesn't seem to work on an R/T. I believe it's due to the black key power reduction mode on a Hellcat reducing power by limiting the supercharger's electronic bypass valve. Since the Whipple I am installing uses a vacuum bypass, it still won't work after that's complete. So I started looking at the Smooth Boost controller, which would give me an electronic bypass valve.

Since I have access to the canbus messaging, I could connect some of the Smooth Boost control wires to my Teensy controller and do my own black key reduced power mode by having the Teensy detect a black key in use over the canbus, and then activate the Smooth Boost's "no boost allowed" mode.

The Blue, Gray and Tan wires are optional and activate when they receive a GROUND signal. These can be used in conjunction with momentary and on/off switches or other control systems NOTE: NEVER put voltage of any kind to these wire's as internal damage WILL occur!!!

⦁ BLUE wire:
This is the BOOST CUT Wire - This wire defaults the actuator to open the bypass valve. This will cut all capable boost from the engine. Signal can be generated by components such as a failsafe air/fuel guage, water meth low level, aftermarket ECU, ect.

⦁ Gray wire:
Calibration Mode- Activate this wire with a ground signal when adjusting the Actuator to the valve closed/BOOST position.

⦁ Tan Wire
This is the Scramble Mode - Activation will give full boost mode as if the boost knob was turned up all the way up or the bypass plug is installed.

**Boost control through a standalone ecu's auxiliary PWM output can be achieved with our SB-DCA converter which
transforms a (PWM - ) signal to a 0-5v analog signal. It replaces the standard open loop boost control knob

I also completed phase 1 of my Whipple install last weekend, which was to get all the peripherals behind the bumper installed. All I have left to do is swap the intake for the supercharger itself, and then connect everything I installed last weekend up to it ... and of course, load the Whipple calibrations in. I'll start another thread on this though, when I have time to write it up and describe my experience with that. I took a bunch of pics, especially as I ran into things where I needed to fabricate a solution.

 

[Beast502]

They come off with a lot of force, a small pick or screwdriver helps. I broke the first SRT panel I took apart, but after getting it all apart I figured it out.

From everything I can gather ECO mode on the 2021+ RTs only deactivates or changes the characteristics of MDS. I’m keeping MDS enabled in my tune even after the supercharger because some of the reason I bought a TnG over a 392 was the fuel mileage, even though the 392 also has MDS, the fuel mileage doesn’t compare to the TnG.
On the 2021+ 392 models ECO mode changes the transmission and possibly how sensitive MDS is, but I haven’t looked at a 392 ECM file to confirm.
On the HC models ECO mode only changes the transmission. Again, I could be wrong on some of this, this is just what I’ve gathered.
I noticed on the TnG with Drive Modes pages enabled the transmission does not start in 2nd gear like in the 392 and HC models when in ECO mode, even though it says it does in the description. I know this is only because the Drive Modes pages are for the 392 and HC, not the TnG which has different trans tuning.

Hey, I’ve been following along and haven’t commented cause I wanted to see the outcome of this and have never dealt with messing with a pcm/bcm too much besides messing with forscan on my company cars. I want to first thank yah for yahs time on this, all of you all are amazing and are very talented. I’m young so I’m still learning. My question is, I do have a 2021 Dodge Durango R/T TNG as well and I noticed you got yours to work by only enabling SRT to ON and something else. Could I just enable SRT with my Tazer to get the full SRT drive modes on the screen? Or would I have to follow what Stoopalini did by using AlphaOBD and system flash/upgrade firmware? Also, did you have to use a canbus hub with a Teensy as well? Thank you for your time.

 

[stoopalini]

Hey, I’ve been following along and haven’t commented cause I wanted to see the outcome of this and have never dealt with messing with a pcm/bcm too much besides messing with forscan on my company cars. I want to first thank yah for yahs time on this, all of you all are amazing and are very talented. I’m young so I’m still learning. My question is, I do have a 2021 Dodge Durango R/T TNG as well and I noticed you got yours to work by only enabling SRT to ON and something else. Could I just enable SRT with my Tazer to get the full SRT drive modes on the screen? Or would I have to follow what Stoopalini did by using AlphaOBD and system flash/upgrade firmware? Also, did you have to use a canbus hub with a Teensy as well? Thank you for your time.

I’m not sure of the Tazers capabilities, but you can certainly try enabling SRT and see?

For full details of what I did, read through my power point fox and see if it answers your questions.

Durango_Drive_Modes.pptx

Overview: Approach: This project is an attempt to enable the SRT dashboard screens on a 2021+ Durango R/T Tow & Go, and have the functionality work along side the drive mode hard buttons located on the 2021+ Durango R/T Tow & Go’s Integrated Center Stack (ICS). The concept here is to install the ...

docs.google.com

 

[Beast502]

I’m not sure of the Tazers capabilities, but you can certainly try enabling SRT and see?

For full details of what I did, read through my power point fox and see if it answers your questions.

Durango_Drive_Modes.pptx

Overview: Approach: This project is an attempt to enable the SRT dashboard screens on a 2021+ Durango R/T Tow & Go, and have the functionality work along side the drive mode hard buttons located on the 2021+ Durango R/T Tow & Go’s Integrated Center Stack (ICS). The concept here is to install the ...

docs.google.com

Thank you sir, I will start reading.

 

[Beast502]

I know it's been a while since any update has been given here, so thought I would provide one.

The setup has been working flawlessly for weeks, and has been great! Here's a 4 minute video demonstrating the current state of the solution:

I've still been unable to get the "Sport" mode splash and icon to work in the cluster, and I'm starting to think it may be a cluster firmware issue and not a canbus messaging issue. It's not a big deal, but an annoyance and really the final thing to work out for drive modes to be 100% as they are in the SRT, working along side the TnG panel drive buttons.

Launch control seems to be dependent on the cluster cooperating as well, and since it appears the RT and SRT clusters have different firmware on them, I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get Launch working with the R/T cluster. I've thought about switching to an SRT or Hellcat cluster, but I really don't like the analog speedomoter replacing the analog tachometer. It's weird to me the performance version has a speedo instead of a tach, but oh well ...

After I got pretty frustrated with the whole "Sport" splash thing, I decided to take a break from it and started focusing on the hardware package. The setup thus far has been the Teensy controller with a large 3-can shield sitting on it, tucked behind the driver's side dash end cap, with the wires shoved in screw terminals.

View attachment 132199

This has been fine from a development perspective, but I don't want to leave something like that for years to come; so I started working on a more durable and compact design.

@F8HEMI found this small dual-can shield for the Teensy, so we picked this up to try out:

View attachment 132200

Since we don't need to interface with the C-bus, we really only need two can controllers anyway, and this little thing is absolutely perfect! It sites right on top, so it doesn't take any additional realestate except a bit of height.

Doing it this way meant we also had to then devise a power solution to reduce the vehicle's 12v - 14.4v down to 5v. In the current setup, the large 3-can shield does this for us ... so I picked up these little buck converters, which do the job nicely. There are smaller ones out there, but I chose these because they're rated to 5 amps, which is extreme overkill for a simple dual-can Teensy setup; but I wanted to toy around with adding an LED strip behind the center hood scoop. So 5A gives me the power overhead I need to do that.

View attachment 132201


Then I grabbed an old LED controller I had laying around and repurposed the enclosure for my new design. I was able to fit everything neatly inside, and incorporate JST connectors for everything (power, canbus and an LED strip) while also leaving the USB port of the Teensy exposed.

So instead of this:

View attachment 132204


I'll have this (USB thumb drive provided as a size reference):

View attachment 132205


Here's a look inside ....

View attachment 132207


I'm much more comfortable with this package sitting behind the dash for years to come rather than the exposed electronics of the development setup.

I also started playing around with different LED strip modes. Like remaining solid but changing colors with drive mode selection, or changing intensity with RPM, or going to a "Knight Rider" scan when stopped at idle then increasing scanning speed as RPMs increase and going solid around 2k RPM, etc, etc ...

Here's a 30 second video showing the box and an LED strip connected:

Having access to the canbus communications definitely makes a lot of things possible here

I also now have an unlocked PCM installed and a red key paired to the vehicle, so I tried to get "Black Key" reduced power mode going, but it doesn't seem to work on an R/T. I believe it's due to the black key power reduction mode on a Hellcat reducing power by limiting the supercharger's electronic bypass valve. Since the Whipple I am installing uses a vacuum bypass, it still won't work after that's complete. So I started looking at the Smooth Boost controller, which would give me an electronic bypass valve.

Since I have access to the canbus messaging, I could connect some of the Smooth Boost control wires to my Teensy controller and do my own black key reduced power mode by having the Teensy detect a black key in use over the canbus, and then activate the Smooth Boost's "no boost allowed" mode.



I also completed phase 1 of my Whipple install last weekend, which was to get all the peripherals behind the bumper installed. All I have left to do is swap the intake for the supercharger itself, and then connect everything I installed last weekend up to it ... and of course, load the Whipple calibrations in. I'll start another thread on this though, when I have time to write it up and describe my experience with that. I took a bunch of pics, especially as I ran into things where I needed to fabricate a solution.

Updating firmware question: Do I need to extract all the firmware files to the usb stick or only certain file needed?

 

[stoopalini]

Updating firmware question: Do I need to extract all the firmware files to the usb stick or only certain file needed?

You actually don't extract it at all. Just copy the single ZIP file to the USB drive and put it in the USB port. The uConnect system will recognize it and unzip it during install.

If you unzip it 1st, the uConnect system won't recognize it as a firmware file.

 

[Beast502]

You actually don't extract it at all. Just copy the single ZIP file to the USB drive and put it in the USB port. The uConnect system will recognize it and unzip it during install.

If you unzip it 1st, the uConnect system won't recognize it as a firmware file.

Thank you. That was my issue.

 

[Beast502]

You actually don't extract it at all. Just copy the single ZIP file to the USB drive and put it in the USB port. The uConnect system will recognize it and unzip it during install.

If you unzip it 1st, the uConnect system won't recognize it as a firmware file.

Another question, in Alpha OBD under start where you select model and function, which body computer are you selecting? MY2020+ powernet or the last one MY2021 powernet? I see there is no MY2023

 

[stoopalini]

My2020+ But Alfa will auto detect even if you accidentally select the wrong one.

 

[Beast502]

Ok, I’ve updated all settings per your list in the PCM/BCM with alphaOBD and updated firmware with the firmware you included and only thing I’m getting is the SRT splash screen on startup and the SRT on the vehicle button. I still have my normal performance page but not the drive mode screen. I have also disabled the telematics via alpha as well. What else am I missing? Does it take hours or minutes for the drive mode screen to appear?

 

[stoopalini]

Ok, I’ve updated all settings per your list in the PCM/BCM with alphaOBD and updated firmware with the firmware you included and only thing I’m getting is the SRT splash screen on startup and the SRT on the vehicle button. I still have my normal performance page but not the drive mode screen. I have also disabled the telematics via alpha as well. What else am I missing? Does it take hours or minutes for the drive mode screen to appear?

It can take some time for things to load. You can try a reset to speed it up?

But things should start to load over time. Do you have the driver and passenger temperature numbers back in the top corners yet, or is it still the red and blue icons?