Remove the engine cover to get a better look. If that is on the top of the head on either side below the intake, it's probably a bit of seepage from the intake gaskets.
Not a crisis by any stretch but indicative that said gaskets should be replaced at some point sooner than later.

Don

 

Well, thanks Don.
Monday morning I’m leaving it at the dealer.
so, they can check/replace the caliper, and check that.
I was avoiding dealer but it is inevitable

 

yosy:
How many miles on your D? Either way, the intake gaskets are covered under the 5/60 powertrain warranty. Unless you have an extended warranty, or are still inside the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty, the caliper will be on you.

Don

 

I have 3/36 yet. Probably 1 month left 😅
My D is 31K miles. If the intake manifold gaskets would be the issue, I think I could do it since they are pretty cheap, I could time my time to clean everything well. I don’t think at the dealer they take their time to do a good job, or am I wrong?
do you thing I should let the dealer do it?
Or I can try it myself?

 

If you have warranty left, I'd let them do it. No sense in expending time/money on something they will do at no cost. When the intake gaskets on my '14 Charger 5.7L were leaking, my local dealer did them and did a great job.


Don

 

Well, I finally was able to leave the Durango at the dealer. It will take, at least, 3 days to inspect the car, send a report to the warranty, and from there, they will let me know how many days depending on what they found, if parts are available or back-order, etc.
Notes to check on the car:
1- Intake manifold gasket leak (or see what that heck it is)
2- Rough idling when the engine is cold (misfires in cylinders 2 and 7, only when cool. No codes stored, nothing)
3- Fix caliper clear delamination (front passenger side)
4- Transmission clunk (at constant rpm/speed, if try to accelerate you feel a clunk underneath. The dealer guy told me they check engine blocks, weird, I don't think he knows about it. Hope the technician does)
5- Check for any exhaust leak (probably they won't check anything, but let's see)
6- Grinding noise underneath (Lift the car and put it on gear to hear)
7- Check front suspension (clunk when taking bumps)
8- Replace exterior door seal trim (a piece of rubber/plastic in the door/window, was cracked and all 4 of them are like crystallized, but he told me if the warranty approves it will only be the cracked one )

I asked the price for alignment, and $176. I didn't take it, I think is not fair, right?
Also, I told him not to do the recall for the back camera. A lot of people are complaining about having more issues with Telematic box messages.
I asked for the moisture inside the front headlights and he told me they only replace that when there is a defect like not working, blocking, or so.

 

Hey there @DodgeCares,
Can you do something about those crystallized trims (shouldn't turn like that and get cracked) and moisture inside the headlights (it shouldn't be foggy moisture inside, it should be sealed from the factory)?

Thanks

 

The headlight moisture is not a problem, it's a feature.

 

Well, get back my car after the parts didn't arrive on time. It was supposed to arrive the next day, but the County was working on the main road and the truck couldn't access the dealer (he couldn't go around the other entrance, but...). So, I picked up the car and will go back probably next week.

So, the concerns taken by the service guy (pretty good guy) and the opinion of the technician:
1—Intake manifold gasket leak (or see what the heck it is) --- There is no oil leak; he thinks it is like the glue they use in that plastic part.
2—Rough idling when the engine is cold (misfires in cylinders 2 and 7, only when cool. No codes stored, nothing) --- There is no code stored, so there is nothing they can do. He told me that the HEMI engine starts up using only 4 cylinders and shuts down cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7. My concern was cylinders 2 and 7, so there is probably nothing to worry about because, after the engine warms and runs, there is no more misfire read.
3- Fix caliper clear delamination (front passenger side) --- Waiting for that part
4- Transmission clunk (at constant rpm/speed, if try to accelerate you feel a clunk underneath. --- He couldn't replicate it and I couldn't when they call to replicate it.
5- Grinding noise underneath (Lift the car and put it on gear to hear) --- Didn't hear anything. He has a theory about walls, eco, etc. So, he says nothing wrong with the transmission, transfer case, driveshaft or any differential.
6- Check front suspension (clunk when taking bumps) --- He told me because I have the SRT suspension, it will feel stiffer. He only found a little noise in the control arm and asked for the part to be replaced.
7- Replace exterior door seal trim (a piece of rubber/plastic in the door/window, was cracked and all 4 of them are crystallized, but he told me if the warranty approves it will only be the cracked one ) --- They only replaced the driver front side because it was cracked. Damn, how beautiful those trims look brand new. I will buy the other 3 to replace them myself.

Fun fact, the tech told me: "Bro, this is the cleanest car I have ever seen that I have worked. Look at that engine, wow!"

 

Yosy:
It sounds to me like your dealer's service department is a purveyor of BS!

#1. You are reporting a misfire when the engine is cold, and it appears that the intake gaskets maybe questionable. Were they able to verify that concern? If so I'd push for new gaskets. If it is misfiring, there should be a CE light and code stored.

#2. Have you tried to tighten the intake manifold bolts? They are known to loosen up over time. This might be the source of your rough running or misfire at idle. This is something THEY should be aware of, and should have checked/noted.

#3. I call 100% BS on their comment that the Hemi starts and stops on the 4 MDS cylinders. I have NEVER heard such a thing. This has to be misinformation, or worse yet, them making up stuff. I learned along time ago that dealership employees sometimes know very little about what they are trying to sell or work on.

Case in point. Back in the 80's a friend and I were killing some time at a Ford dealer, checking out some trucks. We came across a particular F150 that my friend liked, so we popped the hood. One of the sales rubes came out, and asked if we needed any questions answered or other help. I saw that this truck had the 351W with the 4 barrel carb, as noted on the air cleaner as 351/4V. I knew what that meant, and asked Mr. Rube what the "4V" stood for? He paused for a moment, then replied, "That means it has 4 valves!"
We looked at each other, and excused ourselves.

#4. The caliper and door seal should absolutely be replaced under the 3/36. If the other 3 seals look that bad, I'd push back on that arguing that the vehicle isn't 3 years old!

#5. Your 5/60 PT warranty will cover the trans/drivetrain and seals/gaskets for a good while yet.
The comment re the SRT suspension being stiffer is correct, but it should NOT clunk or knock.

As we mentioned earlier (I think), if you are gonna hang onto it, I'd pick up an MVP plan and extend the full warranty out another 5-6 years. if you do it before the 3/36 expires, I believe you can go to 8yrs 125k if you want.

Don

 

Yosy:
It sounds to me like your dealer's service department is a purveyor of BS!

#1. You are reporting a misfire when the engine is cold, and it appears that the intake gaskets maybe questionable. Were they able to verify that concern? If so I'd push for new gaskets. If it is misfiring, there should be a CE light and code stored.

#2. Have you tried to tighten the intake manifold bolts? They are known to loosen up over time. This might be the source of your rough running or misfire at idle. This is something THEY should be aware of, and should have checked/noted.

#3. I call 100% BS on their comment that the Hemi starts and stops on the 4 MDS cylinders. I have NEVER heard such a thing. This has to be misinformation, or worse yet, them making up stuff. I learned along time ago that dealership employees sometimes know very little about what they are trying to sell or work on.

Case in point. Back in the 80's a friend and I were killing some time at a Ford dealer, checking out some trucks. We came across a particular F150 that my friend liked, so we popped the hood. One of the sales rubes came out, and asked if we needed any questions answered or other help. I saw that this truck had the 351W with the 4 barrel carb, as noted on the air cleaner as 351/4V. I knew what that meant, and asked Mr. Rube what the "4V" stood for? He paused for a moment, then replied, "That means it has 4 valves!"
We looked at each other, and excused ourselves.

#4. The caliper and door seal should absolutely be replaced under the 3/36. If the other 3 seals look that bad, I'd push back on that arguing that the vehicle isn't 3 years old!

#5. Your 5/60 PT warranty will cover the trans/drivetrain and seals/gaskets for a good while yet.
The comment re the SRT suspension being stiffer is correct, but it should NOT clunk or knock.

As we mentioned earlier (I think), if you are gonna hang onto it, I'd pick up an MVP plan and extend the full warranty out another 5-6 years. if you do it before the 3/36 expires, I believe you can go to 8yrs 125k if you want.

Don

Now do you understand why I hate dealerships?

 

I sure do. I guess I've been lucky along the way, as for the most part the ones I have dealt with whether they were Ford, GM, or Dodge treated me more good than bad.

In same way that we have to be our own advocates when we deal with the medical profession, the same goes for automotive stuff.

Don

 

Well, Durango is back.
Only they found as issues and replace the parts:

• weatherstrip outer right front side (driver side)
• caliper passenger front
• arm-upper control

and I did an alignment, please someone that can confirm if those parameters are correct for SRT suspension

They bleed the brake line and changed the brake fluid. Can they do that without removing the other 3 wheels left?
And of course, the new caliper was scratched in the bleeding procedure! Why someone can’t take care of not scratch the beautiful red paint in those calipers?

 

there is a mopar touch up pen for the red brembos..

 

I couldn’t find that one, if you have part number or link, please share it. I bought this time ago but it is not the same red.

https://a.co/d/17wZXY2

 

the # on the pen is

survey says

06102726AB

 

Alignment looks great. Your tire wear from all that negative camber will now be normal. The alignment tech did a great job!

 

Alignment looks great. Your tire wear from all that negative camber will now be normal. The alignment tech did a great job!

Good to know that!

 

RAL 3020 Touch Up Pen - Traffic Red - Pen | LVP Paints

www.lvppaints.com

 

I think my steering wheel is slightly turn.

 

Seems like your dealer did not lock down your steering wheel dead center when doing the alignment. That is a quick fix. Have them fix it and get before and after to make sure it stays within specs. (IT SHOULD EASILY) Make sure your tires are inflates properly (cold) as well when testing for a crooked wheel.

 

Also I have noticed when I do a 90 degree turn the steering wheel not return fully to the initial position, it stays like 1 stop before, stops, and slowly comeback to “middle”. Also It feels weird, like more stiff. Yes, I will take it back on Monday.

 

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