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Dodge Durango Dealership Tests

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4.9K views 69 replies 9 participants last post by  yosy  
#1 ·
Hey Guys,
My lease is ending this December, and I would like your advice on a couple of things I am still unsure about.
Like many HEMI-powered cars, this one has ticking and cracking noises that bother me and make me doubt whether to keep it (I would like to).
I would like to take it to the dealer for a full inspection (it will cost who knows how much) and I would like to know if somebody has done this before and if it is worth paying for it.
I know there are some tests like:

-Vacuum test: A vacuum gauge can indicate an engine's condition by measuring manifold vacuum at idle, low cruise, and high cruise. At sea level with a stock cam, normal readings are between 17 and 22 inches of mercury. Low, fluctuating, or vibrating readings may indicate problems.
-Diagnostic test: A diagnostic test can detect serious engine issues that may not be noticeable through other means. A diagnostic test can be performed when the "check engine" light comes on, or as part of regular maintenance.
-Visual inspection: A visual inspection of the engine bay can reveal issues such as leaks, damaged or loose hoses, damaged or oxidized wiring, or worn or damaged belts.
-Smell the engine: A smell of gas, oil, exhaust, or other chemical in the cabin of the car could be a sign of serious engine trouble.
-Listen for strange noises: Listen for any unusual noises coming from the engine.
-Check the service history: Ask for the vehicle's service history, including oil changes and repairs. (I have my report since I have done every oil change and blackstone lab test result)
-Check the color of the exhaust fumes: Check the color of the exhaust fumes.

But also I would like something like:
-Compression test: to show if cylinder pressure is within the normal range
-Or a deep Scan looking for a faulty camshaft position sensor that could cause engine failure.

Concerns:
-It does a transmission clunk at a certain speed and when you hit the gas it reduces like 2 gears causing a bang/clunk or so, probably it is not the transmission and could be the driveshaft.
-At low speed when you get a speed bump I can feel like a "bang" or so. It feels like the front suspension not absorbing the bump (this could be fine, but I have no other Durango with SRT suspension to compare). I checked underneath and everything looks brand new and no leaks were found.
-When topped and I accelerate hard, I feel when it shifts to 2nd gear like it lost some torque, then at 3rd gear you barely can feel this shift. If I do it with the paddle shift I won't notice that feeling.
-Worried about any issue related to faulty rod bearings. (Copper always comes high for average but slowly comes down between oil test results)

I know... I'm creating a storm without any reason other than some underneath tick noises (it never goes away when the engine is warm or sometimes you notice it more, less, or nothing at all).

Should I take it to a different shop (like a performance shop) for those tests and if they find something, then go to the dealer and let them know what to fix, or can i trust in Dodge dealership tests?

I want all this done under warranty (I know I have to pay for the Tests, but if something needs to be repaired, warranty)
I know I will have a powertrain warranty until 5y/60K, but anything covered only under the basic warranty (like the caliper issue).

***Also, should I purchase an extended warranty after my lease ends?

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
 
#2 ·
If you keep it, get a Mopar extended warranty for used vehicles. It will give you a piece of mind!

FWIW, your power train is covered to 5/50k miles so report the trouble and tell them to fix it under warranty. Otherwise, because the transmission should not clunk and your dealer will not fix it, do not keep it. But I think a trans relearn or firmware update will fix it but the dealer can't pull the bullshit with, NTF or Trait of the vehicle baloney.
 
#3 ·
Otherwise, because the transmission should not clunk and your dealer will not fix it, do not keep it
Did you mean not to keep the Durango, not to buy it?

your power train is covered to 5/50k miles
My window sticker says 5y/60,000 miles

But I think a trans relearn or firmware update will fix it but the dealer can't pull the bullshit with, NTF or Trait of the vehicle baloney.
What this means, they cant do a tranny relearn now?
Is this something another shop can do?
There is a recall now but I don't think it is a firmware update

The 66B recall for the Dodge Durango is a safety recall for a rearview camera issue that can affect a driver's visibility and increase the risk of a crash:
Issue: The radio software may prevent the rearview camera image from displaying.
Affected vehicles: 2021–2022 Dodge Durango, 2021–2023 Chrysler Pacifica, Jeep Grand Cherokee L, and other vehicles.
Resolution: Dealers will update the radio software, either over-the-air or in-person, at no cost to the owner.
Notification: Owners were mailed notification letters in July 2024.
Contact: Owners can contact FCA US, LLC customer service at 1-800-853-1403.
 
#5 ·
Did you mean not to keep the Durango, not to buy it?


My window sticker says 5y/60,000 miles


What this means, they cant do a tranny relearn now?
Is this something another shop can do?
There is a recall now but I don't think it is a firmware update

The 66B recall for the Dodge Durango is a safety recall for a rearview camera issue that can affect a driver's visibility and increase the risk of a crash:
Issue: The radio software may prevent the rearview camera image from displaying.
Affected vehicles: 2021–2022 Dodge Durango, 2021–2023 Chrysler Pacifica, Jeep Grand Cherokee L, and other vehicles.
Resolution: Dealers will update the radio software, either over-the-air or in-person, at no cost to the owner.
Notification: Owners were mailed notification letters in July 2024.
Contact: Owners can contact FCA US, LLC customer service at 1-800-853-1403.

The transmission is an adaptive/learning transmission and will modify itself to accommodate the driver. I don't like it cause sometimes it gets stupid.
So you can have the dealer essentially do a reset on the transmission so it will be like it came out of the factory programming wise.
On my Ram I could remove a fuse for a few minutes that would reset the transmission but I do not know if you can do that same trick on the Durango?
I guess you could disconnect the battery for a few minutes but you may lose your radio/seating settings and have to redo them.

It would not be a recall, rather a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). TSBs are not directives, rather a repair process with engineering defined fixes and it must be done under warranty. Your dealer can pop in your VIN into DealerConnect and check for transmission TSBs and if a TSB matches your complaint, they should follow the TSB if you are in warranty. If out of warranty they will do it but charge you their labor rate plus parts if needed.
 
#4 ·
The 5.7 HEMI is pretty robust with the cam lobe/lifter being the most problematic failure (hard to know if or when it can happen) with water pump coming in second. That said, not sure how a faulty camshaft sensor can cause engine damage as you can literally swing the cam without fear of a valve making contact with the piston...that is how the engine was designed. Unless you are hearing valvetrain noise or noticing unusual performance, such as, lower MPG or hesitation...etc. I would not sweat it.
 
#8 ·
@Don Fox you know me since the beginning back in 2021 when I placed this order. I truly love this car, but because I don’t understand or have no knowledge in mechanical engineering, probably what is an annoying noise to me it is nothing on these cars. This is the first lease car I will keep, see how much I love this car. Just want to make sure I’m doing right and what I could do to know more about all these concerns. I really hate the clunk in the transmission but it is always under certain conditions and not always if I try to replicate it. I will try the relearn reset. So, I think I will do only the caliper issue but need to figure out if worth to leave the car for a week or more just for they to check the car, take some pictures and put the claim to the insurance. Then I think 1-2 weeks more until they replace it. Let’s see.
I will take the extended warranty for sure! Let me see if Granger dealer can help me here.
 
#10 ·
Yosy:
Bear in mind that no mass production item is going to be perfect. Evert vehicle I have owned in my 40+ years of driving has had its quirks.

When you go to get warranty quotes, reach out to Garrett Jensen at Robbins Motors for a quote. Garrett now handles the MVP plans for Clay Robbins who I purchased the lifetime MVP plan for my '14 Charger R/T from.

Garrett is a pleasant no nonsense guy.

Garrett Jensen

Sales Manager

Robbins Motor Co

Manhattan, KS

Phone: 785-537-0357

3100 Anderson Ave

Manhattan, KS 66503

robbinscdjrf.com
 
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#11 ·
There's also the guy from Granger that keeps shilling for his warranties too.
 
#16 ·
I'm all for the open market, and seeking out the best deal, but don't care for Granger's form of advertising.
There is NO way they are selling anything at $25 over cost. That sort of "smarmy" turns me off right now!

Here locally, we are bombarded daily by window companies advertising "buy one get one", or 50, 60% or more off of the labor costs. Anyone with sense knows that IF this were accurate, they'd be out of business in a heartbeat.

You might buy 10 windows and get 10 free, but the 10 you buy will be marked up enough to cover what 20 would normally cost.

PT Barnum said it best sadly, in that a sucker is born every minute.

Caveat Emptor!

Don
 
#22 ·
I'm all for the open market, and seeking out the best deal, but don't care for Granger's form of advertising.
There is NO way they are selling anything at $25 over cost. That sort of "smarmy" turns me off right now!

Here locally, we are bombarded daily by window companies advertising "buy one get one", or 50, 60% or more off of the labor costs. Anyone with sense knows that IF this were accurate, they'd be out of business in a heartbeat.

You might buy 10 windows
and get 10 free, but the 10 you buy will be marked up enough to cover what 20 would normally cost.

PT Barnum said it best sadly, in that a sucker is born every minute.

Caveat Emptor!

Don

My favorite sales lie (recently) is if you invest 100k in gold, we will give you 15k in gold for free. ROTFLMAO!
 
#17 ·
Buying anything off lease makes sense If you have the coin, because it breaks the cycle of never-ending car payments. I bought my 21 off lease as well..took ally about a month to mail me the title..
I'm all for the open market, and seeking out the best deal, but don't care for Granger's form of advertising.
There is NO way they are selling anything at $25 over cost. That sort of "smarmy" turns me off right now!

Here locally, we are bombarded daily by window companies advertising "buy one get one", or 50, 60% or more off of the labor costs. Anyone with sense knows that IF this were accurate, they'd be out of business in a heartbeat.

You might buy 10 windows and get 10 free, but the 10 you buy will be marked up enough to cover what 20 would normally cost.

PT Barnum said it best sadly, in that a sucker is born every minute.

Caveat Emptor!

Don
I will look, but for sure here in Miami I won’t get a good extended warranty price. When I was in the market for a TRX, in all south Florida they were asking $30,000 over msrp, at Granger they gave me an allocation, I built my TRX, placed the order and I got a $12,000 discount on MSRP. They offered me the extended warranty for the TRX around 2k-2.4K, but I couldn’t take it, I had enough ton that payment. Probably I will try many options out there.

What is the best company for an extended warranty in used cars with 30-36K miles on clock?
 
#18 ·
yosy:
As you may (or may not) know, Florida is one of a few weird states that does not allow service contracts to be sold at a discount. This is what I've heard from more than one seller. You will probably have to get it there from an in state seller.

The factory backed MVP plan is the best. Typically the FB plans are mush better than the 3rd party plans which can be a nightmare.
I like to visit Florida, but would not want to live there. I also understand that Florida frowns on people buying or bringing in an out of state vehicle to live there. Some kind of crazy fee they hit you with to do that.

Don
 
#20 ·
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#21 ·
Yosy:
An interesting comment here re Granger and warranties in Florida.




Don
 
#23 ·
I have a 2016 RT with 140,000 within the last 12 months I have had all the below replaced under the maxcare lifetime. All this work cost me $400 in deductible.

Water pump
Radiator
Motor mounts
Driveshaft
Lifters
Transfer case
Transmission
AC condenser
Rear AC lines
Alternator
Serpentine belt

A couple dealerships were chasing a clunking sound, on acceleration and breaking. It ended up being the transfer case.
 
#26 ·
I have a 2018 durango RT with the hemi and it developed a tick earlier this year at about 50k miles. They replaced the exhaust manifolds and exhaust manifold mounting bolts and said that it was a common issue with the Durango.
My radio also started changing settings on its own or choosing something completely unrelated to the area of the screen you touched. Turned out that there is a clear plastic layer laminated over the screen and that layer was delaminating so that the radio was detecting "touches" in the areas where it is coming loose.
We bought the extended warranty, 7/70 I think that includes electronics and it has more than paid for itself.
 
#40 ·
yosy:
I prefer to remove just the negative batt cable, then depress the brake pedal for 30 seconds, then carefully reconnect the battery, fire it up, and touch nothing for 5 minutes. If all appears well, go for a drive and see what you have.
 
#42 ·
Only the negative needs to come off then hold the brake for 30 - 60 sec to drain the computers. Reconnect and then drive as normal.
 
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#43 ·
Well I was doing my regular oil change and I came across this. I thought, "Man, this can't be happening," but when I tried to clean it out thinking it was oil, it's stuck, I can't get it out. Any idea what this could be? An oil leak that crystallized? This is the first time I've noticed this, and yes, I've checked it before and never seen it.

@Vice-White @Don Fox @Tin Foil Hat


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