[durango5.9]

Couple weeks ago the 46re with around 100k miles, decided to stay in 3 gear, reverse worked too, no error codes, transmission fluid was good and no signs of damage in the oil pan. So I parked it and did some Internet search on the subject.

Found lots of input including "NO LOW GEAR (MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR ONLY)
1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 1. Test with DRB® scan tool and repair as required.
2. Valve Body Malfunction. 2. Remove, clean and inspect. Look for sticking 1-2 shift valve, 2-3 shift valve, governor plug or broken springs.
3. Front Servo Piston Cocked in Bore. 3. Inspect servo and repair as required.
4. Front Band Linkage Malfunction 4. Inspect linkage and look for bind in linkage. " on Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Chart - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums and on some other internet pages.

In storage I already have a complete 46RE rebuild kit from https://www.700r4l60e.com, that I ordered around 3 years ago to rebuild what turned out to be a A500/42RE instead of A518/46RE. I then ordered the A500 rebuild kit, rebuilt the A500 and kept the A518 rebuild kit in storage.
This A518 rebuild kit includes the Transgo JR shift kit.

So I decided to overhaul the Valve Body, change/upgrade the electrical sensors and Install the Tansgo TFOD-Jr Shift Kit. Inspect the bands while at it and decide from there If rebuild the whole 46RE.

I ordered the master solenoid service kit from A518 / 46RE Master Solenoid Service Kit Fits 1998 & 1999 Models
Very happy, the kit also included a rubber pan gasket, which makes maintenance/service a lot quicker and cleaner.

Here are the instructions, it is sometimes handy to have an extra copy.

Removing the check ball (yellow) is not a Transgo shift kit modification.
After removing it, 1-2 is almost too firm for stop and go traffic, for my taste, I will probably put the check ball back in one day, to test the difference.

There is also an old video here TransGo-Video Assistance that covers the removal of the VB.

 

[durango5.9]

These two linkages have to be removed.

Suspending the VB and removing the e clip, like shown in the Transgo video.

With the VB on the bench, started by removing the bracket.

Bending a little the retaining plates to remove the boost valve tube.

Removing the VB screws. TORX T 25 head.

 

[durango5.9]

Center section with check balls and separator plate with holes to enlarge (page 3 of instructions). All the screws on the VB are torqued to 4Nm.

Center section ready with new solenoid and sensor, one little check ball to not forget during reassembly.

Removing shifter shaft/arm and boost valve retainer.

Removing valves.

I took all the valves out, to make sure non are sticking and for easy cleaning.

 

[durango5.9]

Inspection and cleaning of upper housing.

Shift kit mods from instructions on page 1.

Grinding notch on 4 land valve as per instructions on page 2.

Manual valve comparison, for curiosity.

 

[durango5.9]

Using the mumbly peg to reinstall the shift shaft/rooster comb.

New manual valve alignment, instructions page 2.

Upper housing completed.

Lower housing, disassembly and inspection.

Yellow replacement spring and tapered bushing installed, instructions page 4.

 

[dizzyD]

Great write up. I see a sticky in the future for this thread, thanks!

have you installed her back in and how's she drive, now?

 

[durango5.9]

Thank you, hope this can help other durango fans/owners.

Yes it is back in, only put around 100 miles on it at the moment, so-far working good.
1-2 is almost too firm for stop and go traffic, for my taste, I may put the check ball back in one day, to test the difference. Though this was not a Transgo shift kit modification.
For the rest it feels just a little more connected to the drivetrain.

 

[durango5.9]

This are the shift kit mods on instruction page 4.

Center section with check ball, preparing to reassemble the VB.

At this point the shift kit is installed and the VB is ready for reinstallation.

 

[durango5.9]

Inspecting the bands, what is visible looks good.

During my internet research I came across this interesting treads, with some upgrades (hopefully) I wanted to try out.
So I left out the check ball and shimmed the low reverse servo solid.
DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums - View Single Post - Transgo TFOD JR install...
DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums - View Single Post - Transgo TFOD JR install...


Procedure to remove the reverse servo.

 

[durango5.9]

The front band adjustment was easy before putting the VB back in.

New output speed sensor.

10 VB to case bolts.

During the whole process the transmission lost around 8L of transmission fluid.

 

[durango5.9]

Here a picture of the boost valve.
Plug, valve, spring and retainer

 

[DLJ]

Real nice presentation and pictures durango 5.9!

I'll be doing my 46RE soon, it's a 1999 stock behind a 5.2 V8 and I got a Superior Shift Kit instead. I've recently bought the truck in mint condition after 2 years seaching for it but already had to change the Governor Pressure Solenoid and transducer (1-2 shift back and forth low rpm issue), adjusted bands, front band went in almost 2 whole turns, and removed the VB to check bands. My truck has a stock transmission, never serviced with about 58,000 miles on it and the front band is shown in the picture below:

I was concerned the front band could be worn , I did some research and got a slip in band but for my surprise, the lining material on the new band is only about 20% thicker than my actual 14 yo band in the transmission.

The pic below shows the front band adjusting screw after band adjustment at 58,000 miles:

Question is, after adjusting your front band how many threads are left above the locknut and is that a stock band? Thanks!

 

[durango5.9]

Thank you DLJ,

it is the band that was on there, almost certain it is the O.E. band. The D had around 87k miles when I bought it, close to 105k now.
I did many fluid and filter changes right after I got it, as that's one of the things many owners generally neglect.
During band adjustment, I backed up the adjuster screw only 1.5 turns and it ended up with around 5 threads past the nut. About the same as before.

The friction material does not come in a thick layer, your band looks still good.

Never heard of a slip in band, where did you find that?

 

[DLJ]

Thank you DLJ,

it is the band that was on there, almost certain it is the O.E. band. The D had around 87k miles when I bought it, close to 105k now.
I did many fluid and filter changes right after I got it, as that's one of the things many owners generally neglect.
During band adjustment, I backed up the adjuster screw only 1.5 turns and it ended up with around 5 threads past the nut. About the same as before.

The friction material does not come in a thick layer, your band looks still good.

Never heard of a slip in band, where did you find that?

Ok, thanks for the answer, well I was concerned about the front band being worn out, I paid alot for the truck when I bought it about 2 years ago because it was in great shape with only 50,000miles on it and I did not expect to have transmission issues, but found out the governor pressure and /or transducer were bad, already solved that by replacing them first and now I am going to change all sollenoids and install a shift kit from Superior.

You mentioned you adjusted the front band by backing off the adjusting screw only 1.5 turns from 72 inch/LB? The manual calls for a 2+7/8 turns for the 46RE front band and mine ended up by going in 2 whole turns.

I heard the front band wears out faster on these transmissions so I bought a slip in band from Makro transmission in the US, just in case. I heard the "slip in" kickdown band can be put in without dropping the transmission but the old band must be cut in half to remove. Anyway I am not changing the front band now and wearing can be monitored by doing more frequent band adjustments and check how many threads the adjusting screw has above the locknut (zero threads = replace). Mine went in 2 turns but I heard these flex bands do stretch a bit too over the years...
Besides, I think the bands have never been adjusted before, nor filter and fluid have ever been changed and that could cause some more wearing, specially in hot climate.
Your bands look new, it's amazing for 100k miles, perhaps the mild climate helps.

I was disappointed with the slip in band I got because it seems to be a backyard shop modification of the ordinary front band with one end partially cut and a bit narrower than the other.

I spent alot to get all the parts for the valve body from the US, in special the ATF+4 which cost about US$ 80.00/quart down here.

I am curious, what fluid did you put in? Have you drilled out the check valve from the cooling line too? I plan on removing the valve body once again and then I'll drain all fluid from the lines, do the shift kit, some seals and put in new ATF+4.

 

[skitzo.d]

Great write-up. it is now sticky!

 

[durango5.9]

skitzo.d, awesome!

This was my 4th shift kit install (2x 700r4, 1x 42re and 1x 46re) In addition to the factory manual and ATGS manual, it is always nice to have some detailed pics with details.

 

[durango5.9]

DLJ,

sems like Chrysler had some QC issues, ... luckily for us the aftermarket and some gearheads are helping us fix them.

It appeared that generally the experienced transmission rebuilders suggest backing that adjusting screw only 1.5 turns or less then 2 turns, to increase longevity of the transmission.

I probably changed filter and fluid around 5 times the first year I got the D, this may explain why it looks clean

Yes I use ATF+4 too, used to made by Mopar but now since Chrysler was bought up completely by Fiat it is made by Petronas. Wow 80$/1 quart ATF+4 in Brazil :wall: IIRC I pay the equivalent of around 100$/5L.
Must be really cool to drive a Durango or Dakota in Brazil, thank you for sharing your adventures from your part of the world.

No I did not touch the check valve, to be honest I did not even think about it. Though as long as not clogged up it should be serving its purpose. I will definitely look in to it.

 

[durango5.9]

Little update!

Couple monts ago with around 124k miles the O.E. torque converter decided to let go.

Time for a rebuild, luckily there where barely any debris and I did not have to replace big $ parts like planetary gears, ...
... except the torque converter I got the stock stall tow unit street edge with billet cover from EDGE racing converters as I had good luck with them in the past.

I had this "TransGo 95 B" plate in the master rebuilt kit, but it has this large hole, so I decided not to use it.

So I decided to replaced these 0.250" in. steel check balls with Torlon check balls and reuse the O.E. valve plate.

Will replace this smaller 4.8 mm steel ball another time.

Remember the slightly hard 1-2 shifts after I removed this ..., I put it back in and I prefer the 1-2 shifts a lot better now (almost like stock).

 

[DLJ]

You seem to be overskilled on these trannys... And perhaps with a heavy foot like mine, sure great info for us who like to use our wrenches, please post up any details. You are probably replacing bands and cluches, metals...? Are they worn out? I recall for the first pics you posted your bands were looking new... Cheers

 

[durango5.9]

Hi DLJ,
yes bud I do have a heavy foot.

This was my 4th automatic transmission rebuilt, I did one road race 700r4, one HD 700r4, one HD 42re and this 46re, that certainly helped a lot, but I'm just a weekend mechanic and all I do is follow the instructions.

The internals of this 46re were still in fairly good condition, even on the washers the copper was just starting to show trough, I would guestimate it should have done another 60k miles easy on these mostly uphill and downhill roads here.
Really a shame to trow it all out but generally with torque converter failure there are debris that need to come out.
On a side note half of the new steel plates were the wrong thickness so I reused the old ones where necessary.

Debris

The colors of the pics don't do justice to the parts, the bands and friction plates looked still good. The rear band is burned on one half, odd.

The O.E. clearance of the rear front clutch pack was too tight and probably caused the slight discoloration of its friction plates. I replaced the selective snap ring with the correct one.

There are many 46re rebuild treads and videos on the net, made by professionals, so I don't feel it necessary to cover that myself.

But here for comparison are couple pics of the 42RE with around 140k miles from a 95 grand cherokee, I had to rebuild, the owner drove it for about 13k with strange noises until it quit working... the problem came from the OD bearing, as you can see.