Yes but make sure you have fuel at the rail and its not bleeding back down hence the reason for the long crank
Steve
DOC Pres

 

so, would you put back on the factory coil 1st while its cold? then check fuel supply? what's the best way to test the fuel pump and the leak down procedure? it seemed to start fine after it was warm kinda weird? :?

 

When its cold after it sits a bit go to fuel rail and push in schrader if fuel squirts(with a little pressure) its not bleeding down
and most likey coil if no pressure you're losing fuel at rail
Steve
DOC Pres

 

How long would you wait after running it to depress the schrader valve?

 

None go out there don't start the D or put key in at all
just go right to fuel rail and press it
Steve
DOC Pres

 

After it sits overnight, will I be able to test it cold and still get pressure?
thanks Jim

 

Get rid of that Accel coil. You're losing it through that adapter most likely. Swap for the stocker coil for a second and see what happens. Takes 3 minutes to eliminate the coil as the culprit.

IndyDurango

 

Thanks! I'll swap the coil as well those accel coils I heard a lot of people had problem with them, maybe they're made in CHINA!? :lol:

 

Thanks! I'll swap the coil as well those accel coils I heard a lot of people had problem with them, maybe they're made in CHINA!? :lol:

I can tell you for absolute certain that the last 2 Accel coils I had WERE both made in China? and neither lasted longer than 6-9 months before dying on me vs the first Accel coil I installed way back in 99 which lasted until 2006 (that one was made in Mexico.)

I'll never use another "Made in China" Accel product again!

 

I can tell you for absolute certain that the last 2 Accel coils I had WERE both made in China? and neither lasted longer than 6-9 months before dying on me vs the first Accel coil I installed way back in 99 which lasted until 2006 (that one was made in Mexico.)

I'll never use another "Made in China" Accel product again!

I hear ya! I wish more performance parts were made in America. I'm going out to swap the coil a little later to see if that was the problem? :?

UPDATE
Ok, I changed out the coil and put the factory one back on. I also depressed the schrader valve at the intake and nothing came out, not even a drop. I read in the FSM manual that the fuel pressure goes back to zero if it sits for a while? Is that right? :? Could the fuel pump be leaking down?

 

yup, fuel pump is leaking down.

IIRC the fix is to replace the fuel pump module.

 

So a fuel pump is in order? Could it be a bad/leaking injector? Someone told me if it was a injector, it'll run really rough. Is that right? Thanks.

 

If an injector was leaking, you should be able to tell by looking at the sparkplugs as the rich cylinder would be a different color on the porcelain. You'd also see this by the injector pulse rate being lowered by the PCM for that cylinder to try to compensate for the richer fuel mixture coming from it. Unfortunately most of us don't have the stuff to read those signals. If you need injectors go to www.fiveomotorsports.com as they have pretty darn good prices and excellent service.
I'd also check to make sure the fuel pump relay is seated fully for constant contact before springing for a pump.

 

If an injector was leaking, you should be able to tell by looking at the sparkplugs as the rich cylinder would be a different color on the porcelain. You'd also see this by the injector pulse rate being lowered by the PCM for that cylinder to try to compensate for the richer fuel mixture coming from it. Unfortunately most of us don't have the stuff to read those signals. If you need injectors go to www.fiveomotorsports.com as they have pretty darn good prices and excellent service.
I'd also check to make sure the fuel pump relay is seated fully for constant contact before springing for a pump.

Where's that relay located? The person that told me about the injector told me it'd run rough at first since all that fuel would be leaking into the cylinder. It runs pretty good, it's just getting it to start!

UPDATE
Found the relay, it's in the PDC and was seated really well but I gave it a little extra bump.

Would this work for getting most of the gas out of the tank to replace the fuel pump, other than driving it?

Disconnect the fuel line quick disconnect from the fuel rail, attach a long hose like a cut up piece of garden hose to the fuel line and put it in a 5 gallon can, turn the ignition switch to the ON position? Repeat each time it fills? luckily I have about 4 of those 5 gallon cans laying around.

Just an idea to make getting the tank off easier or if someone knows of another way, please let me know, thanks!

 

You'd probably wear your wrist out turning it the thousands of times that would take as it only pressurizes the line, the injectors squirt, and then it shuts off till the engine starts. Then it runs as needed to keep pressure in the lines, IIRC. Siphon the tank and then drop it.

 

You'd probably wear your wrist out turning it the thousands of times that would take as it only pressurizes the line, the injectors squirt, and then it shuts off till the engine starts. Then it runs as needed to keep pressure in the lines, IIRC. Siphon the tank and then drop it.

That wouldn't be good! LOL :lol: So the system just pressurizes the fuel rail/injectors then the pump cuts off? What's the best way to siphon it out, I remember back in the early days people would use a garden hose and suck real hard; often getting gas in their mouths. Ewwwww!

 

I imagine you could just jumper the ASD relay and make the pump keep running.

 

It's a shame you don't have a body lift installed or you could always do what Duranged408 did and cut an access hole in the floor right above the pump! :lol:

 

I hear ya! :lol:

 

It's a shame you don't have a body lift installed or you could always do what Duranged408 did and cut an access hole in the floor right above the pump! :lol:

Why would you have to be lifted to access it from the TOP as he did? A lift would aid a bottom access, no?

IndyD

 

The gas tank is fixed to the chassis, not the body, so when the body is lifted, it's actually raised 3 inches above the gas tank (this is why the fuel fill and vent hoses must be lengthened when installing the body lift), which provides a comfortable clearance to make that cut in the floor above the fuel pump.

 

So at stock height, trying to cut the trap door from above would get into the tank? :shock:

IndyD

 

I suspect so, unless you can use a sawzall or cutting wheel with surgical precision. If you look at the pics in Duranged's thread, even with the 3 inches of clearance it still looks a little close for comfort tbh, so I'm guessing the tank must be nearly butted up against the body at stock height. If you didn't cut into the tank, you'd still run the high risk of severing any hoses that rest on top connecting to the tank or pump.

 

Got a new fuel pump ordered and on it's way. It's made by Delphi, part # FG0238, and I got it for a pretty good price on amazon.com at $157. Is that who makes the OEM ones? I called a friend of mine who's the service manager at a local Dodge dealer and he said he'd install it for me for $194 + 10% off. Is that a good deal or not? He said it lists at 2.5 hrs labor.
Thanks for all of your help!
Jim

 

Sounds like a great deal to me. 10% off will put you at a total cost of about $175 and, for 2.5 hours of labor, this job could easily cost you $250 depending on labor costs and where you go to get it done.