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Discussion Starter #21
Probably can get a "Pancake" air compressor from Harbor Freight fairly cheap that will do the job.

I'm sure other Auto manufacturers have "Poor" designs for some of their engines too. It's not just Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep.

It's not like the "tools" cost thousands of dollars where only dealers can afford to have them. Did you check all the fluids including the coolant before you bought the vehicle? If not...it's on you. And it's an 8 year old vehicle bought used. Good luck with whatever path you take.
Vehicles comes with a warranty from Dodge. But the weird thing is, the Thermostat isnt covered. Again its only a half hour job plus the bleeding. But no I agree with you on the poor designs. But the highest point in any cooling system should have a bleed valve. In this 3.6 there is a bleed valve on the thermostat housing. But would also need the front end elevated and the bleeder cracked.
 

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JR:
What causes you to think that a T stat would not be covered? It certainly is under the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. Powertrain warranties are much narrower in scope, but usually cover the water pump and T stat. Some aftermarkets warranties might not. I think we call agree that the burping process for the 3.6L could have been deigned better. It's not the first vehicle I have come across though as such.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #23
JR:
What causes you to think that a T stat would not be covered? It certainly is under the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. Powertrain warranties are much narrower in scope, but usually cover the water pump and T stat. Some aftermarkets warranties might not. I think we call agree that the burping process for the 3.6L could have been deigned better. It's not the first vehicle I have come across though as such.

Don
There is a bleeding valve on the stop of the tstat housing. I spoke to a mechanic and he said that will sufficiently get 90% of air from the system. And the remainder will work its way out over 10k miles or so. If I had access to an outdoor power outlet I would try the vacuum fill method. But I just learned that my apartment has ZERO outside outlets and my neighbors dont work at all. LOL
 

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I had a similar issue on my '13 R/T but, it was a few things, Coolant line in the rear passenger undercarriage had a leak, once that was fixed, I had to top off the coolant but also bleed out the air pockets over several days. Not sure about the 3.6L but on the 5.8 there is a little bleeder valve on top of the water pump. That helped me and also changing the thermostat out to a 180F gets me going quicker. Hopefully, you get to the bottom of the issue so you can really enjoy your D.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I had a similar issue on my '13 R/T but, it was a few things, Coolant line in the rear passenger undercarriage had a leak, once that was fixed, I had to top off the coolant but also bleed out the air pockets over several days. Not sure about the 3.6L but on the 5.8 there is a little bleeder valve on top of the water pump. That helped me and also changing the thermostat out to a 180F gets me going quicker. Hopefully, you get to the bottom of the issue so you can really enjoy your D.

I did notice a small bit of liquid near the exhaust in the rear. Where is that line located? Is it easy to get to? Or is it a hard line?
But its not gonna hurt to do a new thermostat regardless.
 

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I did notice a small bit of liquid near the exhaust in the rear. Where is that line located? Is it easy to get to? Or is it a hard line?
But its not gonna hurt to do a new thermostat regardless.

Looking under the truck, back most corner there are two lines running with clamps. Make sure its now the exhaust that is letting out condesation. The exhausts near the very rear have little holes to let out moisture... ill snap a pic when I go downstairs later.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Looking under the truck, back most corner there are two lines running with clamps. Make sure its now the exhaust that is letting out condesation. The exhausts near the very rear have little holes to let out moisture... ill snap a pic when I go downstairs later.
I have noticed a much larger pool of "moisture" around the rear exhaust if I go into a store. Even after the vehicle has been off for a few minutes. And I know its not normal. But regardless I have the Thermostat and will be change as just another step. But at least if the rear heater core is leaking its covered under the warranty. Let them fix it.
 

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Unless that pool is sweet and has an oily feel, the pool you are seeing is plain water from the exhaust. Water is a by product of the cat converters as they convert the bad gasses to not so bad gasses. Several gallons of water will be created when burning through a full tank of gasoline. I know it sounds crazy, but it's true.

Don
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Unless that pool is sweet and has an oily feel, the pool you are seeing is plain water from the exhaust. Water is a by product of the cat converters as they convert the bad gasses to not so bad gasses. Several gallons of water will be created when burning through a full tank of gasoline. I know it sounds crazy, but it's true.

Don
Oh I know that. But yeah I ended up putting the Durango on Ramps(for height) and ran the engine with the bleeder cracked. added coolant until no more air was sputtering from the bleeder. I shut it down and topped everything off and it seems to be better. Still did the thermostat. No reason not too. But it seemed to work great. Temps are good. coolant was definitely low.

I will see if I get that "pool" tomorrow. Ill be going on a pretty decent trip tomorrow. so we will see if I develop a pool or not. Ive never seen a vehicle create that much water though.
 

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Sounds like good progress. Keep us posted.

Don
 
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Discussion Starter #32
So I have discovered the cause of the air in the system. And I noticed it the other day and mentioned it. But I finally got to touch it while it was still fresh. The rear heater core must be leaking. And its draining onto the ground right above the rear muffler/resonator. Its coolant both smell and feel.
113223
 

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So I have discovered the cause of the air in the system. And I noticed it the other day and mentioned it. But I finally got to touch it while it was still fresh. The rear heater core must be leaking. And its draining onto the ground right above the rear muffler/resonator. Its coolant both smell and feel.
View attachment 113223
Have you looked under? Make sure that it isnt the mufflers pin hole letting out moisture?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Have you looked under? Make sure that it isnt the mufflers pin hole letting out moisture?
Nope. Its staining the ground. Has the smell of coolant and is slick to the touch like coolant. Water doesnt stain where it lands. And i checked the motor oil its not a head gasket leak.
 

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Then, it's the rear heater core, or the lines that bring the coolant to/from the engine. Hopefully, it's not a corrosion issue, as most extended warranties won't cover that. I don't agree with it, but that has been my experience. If you are lucky, it might be a simple as a leaking rubber connector hose where the hard lines connect to the core.
Keep us posted please.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Then, it's the rear heater core, or the lines that bring the coolant to/from the engine. Hopefully, it's not a corrosion issue, as most extended warranties won't cover that. I don't agree with it, but that has been my experience. If you are lucky, it might be a simple as a leaking rubber connector hose where the hard lines connect to the core.
Keep us posted please.

Don
It was just a leaky spring clamp, was corroded bad. I installed a stainless steel marine grade hose clamp. Rubber hose was in good shape. But the clamp was toast.
 

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It was just a leaky spring clamp, was corroded bad. I installed a stainless steel marine grade hose clamp. Rubber hose was in good shape. But the clamp was toast.
This is EXACTLY what I meant. I had this very same issue. Granted I bought my 13 RT from auction so no warranty, but i switched it out for one of those aluminum clamps you screw down to tighten. I would top off your coolant once this is fixed and bleed it over the next couple of days heres a video

 

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Discussion Starter #39
This is EXACTLY what I meant. I had this very same issue. Granted I bought my 13 RT from auction so no warranty, but i switched it out for one of those aluminum clamps you screw down to tighten. I would top off your coolant once this is fixed and bleed it over the next couple of days heres a video

Yeah ive been watching my temps and coolant level and its all ok. But wont know for sure until Friday or so. All the air should have worked its way out by then.
 

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Yeah ive been watching my temps and coolant level and its all ok. But wont know for sure until Friday or so. All the air should have worked its way out by then.
Just make sure youre bleeding out the air. Hopefully youre good though.
 
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