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Dodge Durango 2012 Citadel
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

I have a problem with my 2012 Durango. The error has come up twice so far. When I turn the engine off, the expansion tank boils. I have no errors in the control unit. Fuses are good. My fan won't spin when the engine is off after driving.Is that normal?

Thank you for your help and time

Greetings from Germany
 

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It's one of these causes.

1. Thermostat stuck closed or partially closed
2. Radiator fan(s) is having issues
3. Water Pump is not pumping correctly
4. Air pocket in the coolant system

What is the coolant temp while driving and when you park but do not shut the vehicle?
 
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Dodge Durango 2012 Citadel
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey

The cooling water temperature is at 95°C-98°C according to the on-board computer. The normal display shows just before 90°C.

I have the 5.7l engine

The coolant cap Is ordered. Do you mean the radiator cap? My container has a yellow plastic cap
 

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2017 AWD durango GT 3.6
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Hey

The cooling water temperature is at 95°C-98°C according to the on-board computer. The normal display shows just before 90°C.

I have the 5.7l engine

The coolant cap Is ordered. Do you mean the radiator cap? My container has a yellow plastic cap
Yeah for the 5.7 it would be the radiator cap. That is why I asked what engine.
 

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Dodge Durango 2012 Citadel
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't understand why it doesn't boil over while driving. Only when I turn the engine off. I don't think the thermostat works too well for the cooling system
 

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I don't understand why it doesn't boil over while driving. Only when I turn the engine off. I don't think the thermostat works too well for the cooling system
do you hear the fan running after you shut the engine off?
 

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2017 AWD durango GT 3.6
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When the engine is off you have no flow so any coolant in the heads can boil if system pressure is low. As for the fan running when the vehicle is off none of my FCA vehicles ever had the fan running while the engine was off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When the engine is off you have no flow so any coolant in the heads can boil if system pressure is low. As for the fan running when the vehicle is off none of my FCA vehicles ever had the fan running while the engine was off.
how can i prevent the pressure from getting too low? So do I understand correctly that the fans do not run when the engine is switched off?
 

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2017 AWD durango GT 3.6
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how can i prevent the pressure from getting too low? So do I understand correctly that the fans do not run when the engine is switched off?
The cap on the radiator controls system pressure. The caps can be tested by shops to make sure it holds the proper pressure. As for the fans running when the engine is off, like I said none of my FCA vehicles (durango GT, JGC overland 5.7, Challenger RT and Liberty) ever did this. BTW on my RT challenger I remember there was a TSB where the metal cap was replaced with a plastic one and IIRC the pressure was different...higher. I used to get a beeping noise when the car would cool down in the garage and it turned out to be the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the information. I ordered a new cap but it is metal again. I hope that's the end of it. Do you think I should order a plastic one?
 

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thanks for the information. I ordered a new cap but it is metal again. I hope that's the end of it. Do you think I should order a plastic one?
I generally don't like throwing parts at a problem but considering the cap is inexpensive and several years old I would try replacing. The correct cap for yours is metal.

On my challenger RT the cap is on the reservoir tank which is what the TSB was for. Did not see one for your 2015 when I did a TSB search so what the online parts catalog has should be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if it were the water pump, it would have to overheat while driving, right? I'll see what happens when I change the cap. I'm about to change the water pump to be on the safe side
 

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if it were the water pump, it would have to overheat while driving, right? I'll see what happens when I change the cap. I'm about to change the water pump to be on the safe side
Only reason to change the pump is if you see coolant on the back side of the pulley like the TSB states. If it were the pump you would be experiencing coolant loss and if the impeller was damage you would have little to no flow and the engine would overheat while driving. I just mentioned the TSB to give you a heads up.
 

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Most modern engines run right at the temperature water boils, and with a hot soak (Engine off, hot) it will go WAY over the boiling point of water. Pressure raises the boiling point - I believe it's 1 psi raises it 10°F if memory serves. Bad cap, no pressure = boiling liquid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have one more question for you. Can I buy Chrysler's StarSCAN software? My ACC needs to be calibrated and no workshop can do it for me.
 
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