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I have a 2000 durango my parents gave me , recently ive been getting into trucks ,lifts and more.

Looking to make my wheels come out a little farther until i Get the Bigger wheels and rims.So is it possible to put spacers on stock wheels/Height without messing anything up. Also Please leave some ideas for wheels/rims. Wanna make it fat and 3 inch lift.
 

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Wandering the same thing myself. I'd like to put some 1.5"-2" bolt on spacers on my 20' D and lower it some,give it a meaner stance. I hear the cheaper spacers can ruin stuff and are dangerous,but I see vids of the solid bolt ons being safe. Consensus here??
 

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I have no experience with spacers on a Durango, but I had them on my old Jeep. The only advice that I can you give you is to do your research, don't get the cheap ones, and make sure that you get hub-centric wheel spacers. The cheap non-hub-centric ones can shift around and damage your rims and potential cause wheel loss.
 

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Hi - and welcome!

There are probably spacers for all vehicles. The hub centric advice is spot on, so you would not only need to know your bolt pattern, but also your hub size to make sure they fit properly. Looks like 2000's had a 6x114.3mm bolt pattern and a 71.6mm hub (don't take my word for it), and a quick search turned up these as an example... https://amzn.to/2Sj2oTP

For thinner spacers (like the 1" or maybe even 1.5" thicknesses), the lugs from your Durango's hub will stick out beyond their face, but this is OK if the back of the rim you are using has pockets where the last bit of lug can go. If the back of your rim is a solid face than you need spacers that are at least as thick as the lugs are sticking out.

I put a set of 1" spacers on my 2013 after I added the 2.5" Rough Country lift. Plan is to add bigger tires eventually, but right now I still have the stock wheels (that have the pockets for the studs to extend into) and tires.

Not dramatic, but I like how it fills out to the lip of the fender.

spacer ... ... ... ... ... no spacer

IMG_20191011_162051352.jpg IMG_20191011_162058062_HDR.jpg
 

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I run 1" spacers on my 2018 DDSRT OEM wheels with stock suspension. Like bigbruin, I think it looks better with the wheels out to the edge of the fender.

108949
 
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Most Adaptors today come from Asia, and fortunately, I have observed an increase in materials quality over time.
When someone uses the term ‘spacers’, I think of those simple thin flat metal plates that might be used to increase wheel-to-caliper clearance, but having no studs pressed in, only pass-thru holes. Overall thickness less than “5/16”(M8) is best.

I generally consider anything with a full set of new mounting studs included an adaptor, even if the bolt circle is the same and is being used to move a wheel further outboard.
Having your adaptors made to be hub-centric is no guarantee of perfect wheel, axle flange and bearing axis concentricity.
We recently made Adaptors for a drag racer who supplied us with his brand new Moser axles where they manufactured the bearing center non-concentric with the OD of the mounting flange, and the protruding outer wheel indexing hub was another .015” out of true!
I consider that an unacceptable accumulation of T.I.R. (Total indicated runout) with no easy way to fix, because all motion is determined by the location of the bearing shoulder.

Most quality adaptors are made of 6061-T6 aluminum which is fine, but the studs supplied usually measure slightly small on diameter, and the nuts provided are way oversized in the threaded hole.
I prefer to use brands like ARP or Moroso for wheel studs, but you MUST do careful research to insure a proper length and press-fit into the adaptor stud-bore. The Chinese studs are adequate for non-competition vehicles usually. But in my opinion, these cheap nuts should not be used, the loose fit is typically so bad it’s laughable. When I can find the exact fit, I prefer to use McGard Toughnuts, zero failures, zero complaints!

I’ve heard people say bolt-on adaptors are terrible or unsafe, BS! They are exactly the same mechanical connection having equivalent reliability as bolting a wheel directly to the car, and a 6061-T6 billet aluminum slug is more likely superior in strength to the material used in most aluminum wheels.
One connection is better from the standpoint of complexity and of course re-torqueing wheels after 100 miles requires wheel removal and another 100 miles the outer connection must be re-torqued.

a good method of torqueing and re-torqueing the adaptor (by itself) to the hub-flange, when there is nobody around to step on the brake pedal, is to insert a solid 3/8” square piece of steel bar-stock into a vent louver in the rotor, and this buts up against the caliper support. But with rear drums, you’ll need a partner on the pedal if the E-brake is not strong enough to resist the torque.

Note: I do not like the idea of moving a narrow wheel outward for ‘looks’.
This relocates the center point of the wheel/tire and loads the bearing to its disadvantage. Engineers might call this a ‘rocking couple’ and should be avoided, as it is NOT the same as mounting a wider wheel/tire combo where the center of the contact point remains unchanged. This is why using the ET measurement of a new wheel can be beneficial. On the front, moving the wheel outward changes the scrub radius and will affect steering accuracy and hard braking torque steer and wandering due to leverage induced bushing deflection.
 

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Hi, how was fitement for the front wheel? Any rubbing?
1" spacers/adaptors caused No rubbing with the OEM wheels/tires.

Here is a comparison. The top picture is OEM (No spacers/adaptors) and the bottom picture has 1" spacers/adaptors.

No Spacers.jpeg
1%22 wheel spacers.jpeg



.
 
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2017 durango sxt,tinted windows,Cooper tires, oem splash guards, husky liners, avs vent shades,Clean
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Bottom pic is way better
 

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Did you cut the studs on your durango? I have 1” hub centric wheel spacer but when i put it on my stud is long i need to cut it

I did not have to cut the studs because the back of the wheels have small hollow areas between the lug holes that the studs protrude into, similar to what this picture shows:
 
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