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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At least I'm pretty sure that's what's needed... passenger side doesn't change temp no matter what setting you're at. You can hear the motor spinning but nothing changes. And when you first start it, for about the first 5 minutes, it makes the fan ramp up and down as it tries to change the temperature on that side before it gives up. As for right now the driver side works okay.... how do I get to it to replace it?

And no, no dealerships. Few guys said on the Facebook page it cost them $600+ and I ain't paying that for a $20 part.
 

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Skippy you are still around, haven't seen you in any threads I went to lately.

If you hear the motor, I would check to make sure the door didn't fall off/in/out/etc. On your semis the motors hardly ever have issue, but the pins the door hangs/hinges from can pop out of the detent and then its all or nothing. Sometimes they have a remote motor with linkage but mostly there is 1 pin and the other end of the door axle plugs into the blendor motor itself (how my Mother's Grand Caravan is also). Otherwise the gears stripped or "MAYBE" a in duct temp sensor is bad?

Normally the insane cost is from things like the dash has to come out. I did a Heater Core on a 99 Grand Prix...LAST time I EVER did automotive HVAC, people almost died that day. I had rage for almost hours, and think I might have become claustrophobic temporarily. Not to say the dealer doesn't rip people of...

Turned out when they told her it was the heater core, they were wrong.....it was coming from the overflow tank under the hood....Stereo shop pulled a wiring harness gromment of the firewall to run Amp wiring and it was coming in through there when the fan kicked on. The reason the fan was kicking on all the time and the overflow tank was over filling was......a bad radiator cap. Did NOT learn that till after the interior was gutted, opened the HVAC box and it was DRY with no coolant evidence. So a crap dealer diagnosis, crap stereo install, and ZERO consideration for mechanics/techs from engineers, and my taking someone's word.....caused all the trouble. Would a dealer change you for the whole job if they found out they were wrong and it was just a $15 cap and a loose grommet? DAMN Right they would.

Good Luck Skippy, get a manual, possible backup plan if the vehicle is down for a few days, and tackle that puppy. Since its dual/tri zone, they blendor might be easy to access. The 90's-2000's all the stuff was BURIED under the center stack like pirate treasure to never be found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Skippy you are still around, haven't seen you in any threads I went to lately.

If you hear the motor, I would check to make sure the door didn't fall off/in/out/etc. On your semis the motors hardly ever have issue, but the pins the door hangs/hinges from can pop out of the detent and then its all or nothing. Sometimes they have a remote motor with linkage but mostly there is 1 pin and the other end of the door axle plugs into the blendor motor itself (how my Mother's Grand Caravan is also). Otherwise the gears stripped or "MAYBE" a in duct temp sensor is bad?

Normally the insane cost is from things like the dash has to come out. I did a Heater Core on a 99 Grand Prix...LAST time I EVER did automotive HVAC, people almost died that day. I had rage for almost hours, and think I might have become claustrophobic temporarily. Not to say the dealer doesn't rip people of...

Turned out when they told her it was the heater core, they were wrong.....it was coming from the overflow tank under the hood....Stereo shop pulled a wiring harness gromment of the firewall to run Amp wiring and it was coming in through there when the fan kicked on. The reason the fan was kicking on all the time and the overflow tank was over filling was......a bad radiator cap. Did NOT learn that till after the interior was gutted, opened the HVAC box and it was DRY with no coolant evidence. So a crap dealer diagnosis, crap stereo install, and ZERO consideration for mechanics/techs from engineers, and my taking someone's word.....caused all the trouble. Would a dealer change you for the whole job if they found out they were wrong and it was just a $15 cap and a loose grommet? DAMN Right they would.

Good Luck Skippy, get a manual, possible backup plan if the vehicle is down for a few days, and tackle that puppy. Since its dual/tri zone, they blendor might be easy to access. The 90's-2000's all the stuff was BURIED under the center stack like pirate treasure to never be found.
Been doing more lurking lately, but I'm always here!

It sounds like it's coming from towards the middle of the dash but on the passenger side, like near the foot well area. It's stuck at a perfect temperature for her, which is good, but the fan cycles from wherever I put it to low while it tries to move the door for about the first 10 minutes. I can't find a manual, i guess I'm more looking for info on how hard it would be to get to it, if the dash has to come out I ain't touching it, if just some plastic has to come off that's fine with me


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright... Got around to finally buying and installing the gear. It was awful. I don't recommend it at all. My arms are on fire from all the sharp ass plastic...





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Follow this guide to have the actuator repair done easily like the professional car lockout service providers.

Step 1:

Remove the door panel
First, remove the bezel from the door handle and pull out the clip.
Step 2:
Remove the door panel
Disconnect the connectors from the door panel. Disconnect the battery and pull out the switch panel. Then the door panel. Door panel comes out easily with a pull.
Step 3:
Peel off the plastic backing from the door
Gently remove the plastic backing from the door and you can see the actuator.
Step 4:
Check the old actuator
Remove the clips and cables inside the door handle and unscrew the door actuator from the door lock. Disconnect the black electrical connector from the actuator. Open up the actuator using a razor through the seam and remove the electric motor from it. Clean the motor using a sandpaper and test the motor using a 9-volt battery.
Step 5:
Reinstall the door back.
 

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I know this is a dated post but is there a way to find the alignment to the gear or is it by trial and error or is there a mark to know how to align this? mine came out in 3 pieces and I have no idea how it was oriented on the actuator...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The larger tooth on the gear gets aligned right in the middle of the blend door piece. If it's off it won't work correctly and you risk breaking one or the other.


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I believe this will fix my temperature settings not changing on my passenger side.
However, while the temperature does not change on the passenger side, I now am facing the blowers going on for 1-2 minutes then turning off in the front only.
 

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it may - it seems when this part is loose, it has trouble keeping the fan on. I guess cause the temp is changing so randomly? no idea.. but will let you know if that changes.

Part was in pieces and I went to my local dodge dealer for parts.

I figured replace the control and gear - was about 60$
 

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Sorry to revive from the dead but my issue is the on the 2 driver vents. The passenger vents blow cold while the driver vents blow warm air. If I turn the car off for a 5 minutes and turn it back on it will work fine for an hour then go back to blowing warm. I don’t see any instructions on how to get to the actuator/ gears on the driver side. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Fausty
did you ever replace the driver side gear shown in this thread? It is tight up there with very little clearance. I had to replace both the passenger and driver side on our 2012. Drivers is next to impossible to access. I had to purchase the smallest 1/4 6point ratchet that I could find. Grind down a torx bit as short as possible and wedge it in the ratchet socket. Even then, one of the screws when backed out, the available clearance would not allow me to remove the tool of screw. But it did allow me to move the blend motor enough to replace the gear. Cursing the whole time. Blindly getting the gear timing is tough. Even flipping the ratchet's direction was tough so keep this in mind of the tool may become a permanent part of the vehicle.
 

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Proximity unlock function it not working on my Durango 2016 limited since replacement of the rear liftgate sensory now I can not just touch the doorknobs and unlock my durango, any suggestions on how to get this fixed?
 

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Use the search function for Proximity and you will find several threads about it.
 
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