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FCA says the oil must meet their MS-6395 spec.
Mobil 1 does not. Pretty much ends the discussion of Mobil 1 being a good choice in my book.
 

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Looking for recommendations for oil types to use in my new 2020 GT. Never really paid attention with my last car, but want to be more educated now. I understand full synthetic is the best way to go. Any higher end brands or types I should look for?

Thanks!
MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

use any top rating 5w20 or 0w20 from here... I run amsoil signature series 0w20 and amsoil filter in my Hemi Durango and have no noise whatsoever
 

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Top rated full synthetics are all good, and certainly base stock is important, but for certain applications, the additive package can become the more important deciding factor regarding which oil formulation is “best”.
Matching viscosity to intended temperature use range and purpose can be another opportunity to make choices carefully. Engines using fully rollerized cam followers won’t have to worry about 8620 cam-lobe scuffing from the ‘skidding’ 9310 roller wheel, a problem which is more common in full synthetics than conventional base stock that we see in radical all-out drag racing engines. This is due to the abrupt and extreme cyclic change in roller wheel RPMs as it sees surface speeds so radically different from base circle to being accelerated driven over the nose, this condition is exasperated by the mechanical clearance (valve lash gap) that allows the materials to scuff, caused by the slower spinning lifter wheel ‘landing’ on the opening ramp at a huge difference in surface speed. Our modern Hemi engines live happily using full synthetic partly because hydraulic lifters maintain constant contact throughout the constantly changing rotation RPMs of the wheel on the cam lobe.

Amsoil seems to have a very good package of friction modifiers and a balance of detergent, but probably MOST IMPORTANT,,, it MUST be changed out BEFORE it gets worn out, broken down, or dirty, the HEMI HATES DIRTY OIL!
 

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1999 Durango SLT 4x4
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I have used Pennzoil Platinum in my 2013 Kia Optima 2.4l 4 cyl. (you know, the engine EVERYBODY says is junk?) for over 140k miles.
For a junk engine it runs really well!
I have gone over 100mph in that little grocery store sedan more than any other of the more than 30 vehicles I've owned and it has never had more than brakes, tires and 1 alignment.

The REAL secret though....I thonk....is that I always used either Mobile 1 or Wix XP filters.

Using a cheap filter with premium oil just doesn't make any sense to me.

In my 99 Durango I use Pennzoil High Milage synthetic and ditto on the premium filter. It's my "baby"

Good luck.
 

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Looking for recommendations for oil types to use in my new 2020 GT. Never really paid attention with my last car, but want to be more educated now. I understand full synthetic is the best way to go. Any higher end brands or types I should look for?

Thanks!
I've been using Mag1 in my 2017 RT.... I also like Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic. Any name brand synthetic oil is going to be pretty good. There really isn't a great reason to spend a ton of money on the "top of the line" brands as there performance won't be much better, if at all in a passenger vehicle driven on the highway.
 

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So over on the Ramforum there are guys who have done some pretty serious legwork on this issue. Many threads and 100's of pages to read. Trying different oils, having oil analysis done etc. as far as warranty goes just make sure it meets specs. I tried a few different ones and find the Penzoil Ultra Platinum keeps the engine noises quieter. Ihave 60k on the Ram including 100 or so passes down the dragstrip with no issues. I do use the prolong additive in it also with SRT oil filter on both Hemis. I have considered trying the Amsoil or the Redline but not going to fix what isn't broken.
 

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Pennzoil FTW!
 

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I've used Pennzoil Full Synthetic in all my vehicles since 2008. I've changed the oil myself about %95 of the time. I'm only recently having the dealer change the oil, with synthetic, on my new-to-me 2016 Durango R/T because I don't like where the oil filter is and I don't like the composite oil pan, and it's the only vehicle I have with an extended Mopar warranty.

Here are my results:
2008 Dodge Charger SXT with 3.5 V6 - Put 207,000 miles (bought with 10K mies) on it with nothing done to the engine except spark plugs, water pump at 112,000 miles. Used Pennzoil Full Synthetic and Fram Filter. Yes, I know now that wasn't a good idea.

2009 Dodge Caliber SXT with 2.0 Inline 4 - Put 110,000 miles (bought with 15 miles) on it with zero engine problems. Changed spark plugs at 100,000 Miles. Used Pennzoil Full Synthetic and again, Fram Filter.

2015 Dodge Charger SXT 3.6L V6 - Bought with 20K Miles, put 35K on it. Had zero problems with engine. Used no oil between oil changes and I changed the oil every 7,000 Miles. Used Pennzoil Full Synthetic and genuine Mopar Filter (I finally saw the light!)

2016 Dodge Durango R/T - Bought with 39K and I have 58K on it now. I have the dealer change the oil with Synthetic and whatever oil filter they use since I'm not willing to take chances on voiding my warranty or break something changing the oil. From the Carfax report, it's already had the water pump and the oil pan replaced, all before 39K.
I must note that my R/T has had the Hemi Tick since I got it at 39K. I know it had regular non-synthetic oil in it at the time, so at 4K miles, I had the dealer change it with Full Synthetic. Magically, the tick is gone now.

Also, I'd like to say that I have my oil analyzed by Blackstone Laboratories on the Caliber, the 2015 Charger, and my 2016 Durango R/T. I would recommend spending $28 on an analysis to see where your vehicle is at in terms of health because when my daughter got the Caliber from us, she was putting 10,000 miles or more in between oil changes. Even though it was Pennzoil Full Synthetic, the analysis was OK but not great. They suggested changing the oil sooner, so at 7K miles, the analysis was better, but still not optimum. So, what's crazy is she bought the oil, which was Walmart brand Supertech Full Synthetic, she put 7K miles on it again, and it was the best result to date. The car is almost in spec at 138,000 miles.

So, what's my point? I've had great results from Pennzoil, but even the cheapest Synthetic Oils do a good enough job to out perform it once in awhile. Even Blackstone Laboratories will tell you motor oil is motor oil.
 

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The less stressed the engine, the more true this statement becomes.
Any oil that passes minimum industry classification standards is functionally equivalent to any other oil in the same classification.
The higher the specific output of any engine, the greater the requirement for using better base stock and carefully engineered additive packages.

A variety of engines are built along a broad spectrum of intended uses, ranging from the cheapest import garden implement, all the way up to winning Formula 1 engines, or top competition aircraft.
Engines that are 'higher up the food chain' obviously require increasingly more specific and more competently formulated lubricating motor oils.
My 55 yr/old 3.5HP B&S lawn mower won't benefit from anything more special than possibly a clean crankcase of generic motor oil once a year.
My SRT deserves better, and it will return a longer service life if it gets premium consumer grade synthetic oil, but the very best (and even the most expensive exotic synth oils) won't prevent permanent harm to the 6.4 if left in too long to get loaded up with silicates, acids and debris etc.

Engine oil serves several purposes, transferring heat from one area or part eventually out to the cooling system, it provides film strength to keep metal parts from making contact, absorbing, nuetralizing and encapsulating acids, carbon, random debris, and silicates from clogging passageways, coking or gluing parts together, abrading the smooth load bearing surfaces while maintaining ideal clearances, also it delivers hydraulic functions to lift valves off their seats, variable valve timing events or maintain cam-drive chain tension.
Synthetic oil's base stock possess a flatter curve of change (coefficient) regarding viscosity over its full operating temperature range, so that the oil behaves more consistently and predictably over this range. It also tolerates higher extremes of temp before burning off into carbon.

My old third-hand, late 60s, slant six used so much oil that, after 400K, I only replenished what was lost per week with what I drained out of my other vehicles, after they had their scheduled motor oil changed.

Cheaper synthetic oil is ok in a current generation Hemi, but it may need to be changed sooner, all things being equal, so if I can budget a better brand after learning that exhaustive lab tests prove one to be consistently and measurably better, I'm using that superior brand.
But, if I find I can not locate that "TOP" brand when it's time to change out my dirty oil, I have in the past, I do now, & I will continue to reach for any other available decent oil just to make sure I'm not running old dirty cruddy oil .... ever.
 

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Speaking of oil filters, I have never been a fan of Fram oil filters, but I have to say I like the Fram Ultra synthetic oil cartridge oil filters. I used them in my 2016 Chrysler Town & Country and I plan to use them in my 2020 Chrysler Pacifica. As compared to the Wix XP cartridge filter, I actually like the Fram better. So if you have the 3.6 in your D I think the Fram Ultra cartridge filter is a good choice.
 

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I think that the Fram ultra synthetic canister filters are good quality also from what I’ve researched. At our Walmart though they are the same price as the mopar filter and the Mobil 1 filter, so I choose the Mobil 1 filter. However, I would run that fram and feel good about it if I had to.
 

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I think that the Fram ultra synthetic canister filters are good quality also from what I’ve researched. At our Walmart though they are the same price as the mopar filter and the Mobil 1 filter, so I choose the Mobil 1 filter. However, I would run that fram and feel good about it if I had to.
I like the Mobil1s too, but even at Walmart they tend to be slightly more than the Mopar or the Fram Ultra and for some reason they don't always have the Mobil1s in stock at my local Walmart.
 

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Interesting thread to me anyways.

@Chase300 I used to be a big Mobil 1 fan because they are used on race cars. Figured they must make good oil, but Dodge recommends Pennzoil so I’ll go with that.
 

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I'm sorta new here, so not sure how "which oil is best?" threads play out, but most sites I visit they usually get rowdy. I'm not claiming my choice is "best", but there is plenty of evidence that says its VERY good. Wix 57060XP filter and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is what I'm using on my R/T. I use Rotella and Fleetguard filters on the Ram, and Castrol Edge and Wix/OEM filters on every thing else.
I like the Wix filter w/ Royal Purple oil...
 

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Rotella SUV & Truck full Synthetic in my research has the best wear protection and heat wear protection. Check out 'Project Farm' on YouTube the guy does really awesome testing on all types of oils.
 
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