Best Oil Brands certified by American Petroleum Institute for 5.7L HEMI engines
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That's OK, Pennzoil is owned by Shell....so just buy Pennzoil.
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The results speak for themselves Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5W-20. This oil had lower than normal wear running oil samples when I hit 100K . This oil was used for 95% of the life of the vehicle. Sold it privately at 136K miles and the purchaser was thrilled to see these reports. Oil filters were from K&N
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I've never experienced any of the above issues on any of the Hemi's I've owned in the past 10 years, and that's 5 of them. They all get 5w30 Redline
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207 Posts
i use PP. haven't done a change in the durango yet but this is i think the 4th 5.7 and i've not had any issues with using that oil. i've also used pennzoil in my old mazdaspeed3 (turbo 2.3L) after having started it with mobile1, then switching when i couldn't find it for a regular oil change at the local store. been using pennzoil in everything ever since (except my motorcycle). in every new vehicle i use full synthetic, although a couple used vehicles i opted for their "high mileage" line.
i also use their SRT brand for my 2500 with the 6.4, although i have to get that from amazon since i never find it in the stores
on a side note, i always go to the dealer for the oil filters. i think because it's the only paper trail that i don't have to worry about keeping for myself. i figure if anyone wants to know the oil change history i can go to the dealer and find every time i bought a filter for said vehicle. but of the dozens of cars i had over the years the oil change history has never come up during a trade or sale
i also use their SRT brand for my 2500 with the 6.4, although i have to get that from amazon since i never find it in the stores
on a side note, i always go to the dealer for the oil filters. i think because it's the only paper trail that i don't have to worry about keeping for myself. i figure if anyone wants to know the oil change history i can go to the dealer and find every time i bought a filter for said vehicle. but of the dozens of cars i had over the years the oil change history has never come up during a trade or sale
But that's an average of only 2 yrs of ownership...I'm at 16 yrs and 8 yrs....265,000 and 145,000. 5W20 working fine.
I'm not saying 5w30 oil won't work...but I see no evidence from my ownership that 5W20 oil causes any additional wear.
To the 60% of you using the Pennzoil 5W20, I hope you have better luck using it in your 5.7 than I did. In my '06 Hemi Daytona, I tried it, and even the Ultra Platinum, and found both very noisy at cold start-up, and noisier at idle. Same issue when I tried the 5W20 even in our 2.4L Jeep. Switched to Mobil 1 EP, and much quieter in both.
In our new '21 DD 3.6, 1st oil change I used Mobil 1 EP 0W20, and very happy with cold start-ups all winter. I really wanted to like the Pennzoil, but after trying in multiple engines a couple of times, it just makes sense to me that any brand of oil that produces more noise will cause more wear.
In our new '21 DD 3.6, 1st oil change I used Mobil 1 EP 0W20, and very happy with cold start-ups all winter. I really wanted to like the Pennzoil, but after trying in multiple engines a couple of times, it just makes sense to me that any brand of oil that produces more noise will cause more wear.
Yep... Someone else has experienced the noise using Pennzoil?
Nope, I had just the opposite using Mobil 1...more noise than Pennzoil in my non-VVT Hemi.
I have only used Pennzoil in my VVT-Hemi as it met the MS-6395 oil spec and I didn't want to deter from that during the warranty period. But I noticed the engine was quieter than my Hemi with Mobil 1 in it. Thus I stopped using Mobil 1.
Honestly I feel Walmart Supertech syn oil is better at keeping the Hemi quiet than Mobil 1.
Though I have not used Mobil 1 EP.
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Oh boy! An oil thread! 🍿😁 This one is pretty civil, I must say. Things usually get pretty heated!
I'm not going to sway anyone one way or the other with what I use. I'll just say I've been working on engines of all kinds for decades, and I've used them all. Clean oil is good oil, regardless of the brand. That said, there are wild variations in additive packages from one brand to the next. I ran Pennzoil for decades in my old V8's for hundreds of thousands of miles without an issue. I still run it in my '86 Grand Marquis that has leaked out of the rear main seal for the past 19 years. No point in wasting expensive Amsoil on a leaker. She's got 286k miles on her with zero signs of slowing down yet! You could argue that this is built in a different, much better quality time, and I'd say you're 100% right - this car is still on the original transmission, rear end, and in-tank electric fuel pump (first year of multi-port FI).
I've known people running cheap Walmart Tech 2000 (or whatever it;s called now) oil for over a decade, and they're still running.
But if you're towing, and when you're not, you've got your foot to the carpet every single time you leave from a stop, then Amsoil really can't be beat, especially for 10k mile plus oil changes. Oil analysis is a must, though. Not because the oil can't handle it, but because some engines just make trash over the course of running and might contribute to higher than normal wear.
I'm not going to sway anyone one way or the other with what I use. I'll just say I've been working on engines of all kinds for decades, and I've used them all. Clean oil is good oil, regardless of the brand. That said, there are wild variations in additive packages from one brand to the next. I ran Pennzoil for decades in my old V8's for hundreds of thousands of miles without an issue. I still run it in my '86 Grand Marquis that has leaked out of the rear main seal for the past 19 years. No point in wasting expensive Amsoil on a leaker. She's got 286k miles on her with zero signs of slowing down yet! You could argue that this is built in a different, much better quality time, and I'd say you're 100% right - this car is still on the original transmission, rear end, and in-tank electric fuel pump (first year of multi-port FI).
I've known people running cheap Walmart Tech 2000 (or whatever it;s called now) oil for over a decade, and they're still running.
But if you're towing, and when you're not, you've got your foot to the carpet every single time you leave from a stop, then Amsoil really can't be beat, especially for 10k mile plus oil changes. Oil analysis is a must, though. Not because the oil can't handle it, but because some engines just make trash over the course of running and might contribute to higher than normal wear.
So, you are on the Pennzoil team. Yeah, you are right, but always is good to know the experience of everyone using some kind of brand. Seems like Pennzoil is a strong winner on those engines.
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I always stuck with Pennzoil, but I've run Castrol GTX, Quaker State, and some ultra cheap crap in my oil burners / leakers in the day. My '85 Monte Carlo used to burn a quart every 100 miles. I used to buy cases of Sunoco oil at ADAP Auto Parts for .77 cents a quart, lol. That car used to make people roll up their windows in the summer if they were unlucky enough to stop at a light next to my tailpipe. At idle, it pumped CLOUDS of blue out ... then when I jumped on the throttle when the light turned green, I couldn't see anyone behind or beside me. Good ol' days!
Love those storiesI always stuck with Pennzoil, but I've run Castrol GTX, Quaker State, and some ultra cheap crap in my oil burners / leakers in the day. My '85 Monte Carlo used to burn a quart every 100 miles. I used to buy cases of Sunoco oil at ADAP Auto Parts for .77 cents a quart, lol. That car used to make people roll up their windows in the summer if they were unlucky enough to stop at a light next to my tailpipe. At idle, it pumped CLOUDS of blue out ... then when I jumped on the throttle when the light turned green, I couldn't see anyone behind or beside me. Good ol' days!
Post some pics sometime
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Here ya go. I paid $600 for her. Drove it 2.5 years with CONSTANT abuse! I even welded up a hitch and pulled mine and my buddies ATVs on a snowmobile trailer for a while. She never left me stranded! Took it to NYC and drove right past the Twin Towers, been to the mountains of NH, and VT, down the Cape, and everywhere in between. The transmission never had 2nd gear - it would skip right over to 3rd, HAHAHA! When it finally lost reverse, then the rest of the forward gears except 1st, I drove it to the junkyard at 5k RPM. In those days they'd pay you $100 if you drove it there. That was a good chunk of money back then! They were betting on the fact that most people were sane, and would drive a street legal & inspected vehicle there. I was cut from a different mold, lol. Guy says to me, "You hit everything but the lottery with this thing!! I'll never get my money back on this!" He didn't want to pay me! I said hey, a deal is a deal! Your ad said if I drove it here! He paid me, but he was grumbling the entire time. 😁
The front end was so mangled, I could take my hands completely off the wheel on sharp, sweeping right-hand turns on the highway, and she'd go right around it, LOL! My favorite thing to do with a carload of buddies was take my hands off the wheel completely and put them behind my head as we went around the corner. That always made for some interesting comments ...
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The front end was so mangled, I could take my hands completely off the wheel on sharp, sweeping right-hand turns on the highway, and she'd go right around it, LOL! My favorite thing to do with a carload of buddies was take my hands off the wheel completely and put them behind my head as we went around the corner. That always made for some interesting comments ...
And with the old water heater? out in the snow, too.
Which of these oil filters is my best option for any oil brand?
Also, I have to leave my car at the dealer 1-4 days so they can figure out what that ticking noise is (exhaust leak, lifters or something else). Can I ask them to change the oil pump for the Hellcat oil pump to have more PSI?
https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-filter-p4452890
https://www.rockauto.com/mobil-filter
https://www.rockauto.com/fram-racing-filter
Also, I have to leave my car at the dealer 1-4 days so they can figure out what that ticking noise is (exhaust leak, lifters or something else). Can I ask them to change the oil pump for the Hellcat oil pump to have more PSI?
https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-filter-p4452890
https://www.rockauto.com/mobil-filter
https://www.rockauto.com/fram-racing-filter
Definitely not the Fram Racing. It is a high-flow, low filtration kind of filter. If you want Fram look for the Titanium which is good. The more common Fram Ultra Synthetic is OK, synthetix blen media like the Mobil 1. If I'm paying for a quality filter I want one with fully synthetic filter media. My current favorite is Wix XP.
What about the Mopar black one? Is not good enough? I have read that it should be a high-performance filter. Planning to use Pennzoil or Amsoil. I don't know yet.
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