[rm1469]

Very interested to see how this is turning out, I also have been attempting to put a system in my '14 and also live here in Vegas.....maybe we can meet up sometime!

 

[Lanson]

Very interested to see how this is turning out, I also have been attempting to put a system in my '14 and also live here in Vegas.....maybe we can meet up sometime!

Definitely! And if you want that box I started building, just let me know and pick it up. It is ~.6 cubic feet and suitable for a 10" SD3 (or possibly other shallow-ish subwoofers.) It won't be doing much for me but it might be a head start for someone else.

 

[Lanson]

New gameplan, I scored a much more powerful sub amp (and some other goodies) and I'm ditching the PR setup to run two SD10's in a sealed config. With the additional power I'll get the SPL I was expecting with the PR setup, very similar to MoparMike's setup at this time. I predict our setups will look quite similar near the end, but it isn't on purpose, in fact I think it is more just how this vehicle "wants" to be built.

The PR setup would have been cool but more power with more active cone area is always better if it is available. If I was forced to keep my power level the PR solution would still be implemented.

 

[MoparMike]

New gameplan, I scored a much more powerful sub amp (and some other goodies) and I'm ditching the PR setup to run two SD10's in a sealed config. With the additional power I'll get the SPL I was expecting with the PR setup, very similar to MoparMike's setup at this time. I predict our setups will look quite similar near the end, but it isn't on purpose, in fact I think it is more just how this vehicle "wants" to be built.

The PR setup would have been cool but more power with more active cone area is always better if it is available. If I was forced to keep my power level the PR solution would still be implemented.

Sweet! Looking forward to watching your build and playing off of one another for info and tips. What you accomplished on the Vette build at DIYMA was awesome so this probably will be too. Keep it up!

 

[Lanson]

This weekend I started on my new plan, and came across a semi-decent way to do it. Turns out the rear interior trunk panel (the one the covers the sub) is "only" about $98 online brand new, oem so I decided to take a chance and cut it up. I did this because my design plan has me keeping the factory top cover, and the best way I've found to keep it is to also keep the trunk interior panel.

This is what it looks like on top, just like stock. But underneath, this is the initial trim I did to make it work.

I trimmed much further, to get a somewhat consistent cut around the part. I startted with as big a panel as I could, but quickly I realized that my equipment is just too large for this.

With the part trimmed, I have 5" of clearance (4.25" of side, .75" top board) to make a box.

Based on the fact I need to mount my processor, my KS900.6, and some other parts, I needed to change my box shape. This is what I came up with as a solution. This gives up a bit of airspace but it make it possible to mount all my equipment at least.

Before I packed it in, I soldered up my speaker terminals

My other amps should be here tomorrow or so, which will let me figure out the final mounting design.

 

[Lanson]

After getting the two subs in, and test-fitting / measuring, I realized my path was not a good one. I decided to start over again and this time, build firing up. I don't mind restarting because its just wood, glue, and air brads... not exactly expensive to learn on.

In other news I got my CSS LD22 "seconds" tweeters in, and within 10 minutes of arrival I had "ruined" them. hahaha. Well I was told this by other experts, that the LD22 is really a Wavecor tweeter, and I guess I had to see this for myself. Lookie:

So it really is a Wavecor tweeter, and the model number is W022WA03 4 ohm

I had to tear into them pretty good

I also got my center channel, a somewhat hard speaker to get I guess... Wavecor , cute little thing, hope it fits!

 

[Lanson]

Time for some update pics, the new direction is working!

Clearance to the subwoofer is about an inch

I decided to mount the subs close together, just for aesthetics (for the top board to come)

You can probably see here that I had use a roundover on the subwoofer cutouts. I cut them to 9 1/4 like it shows in the spec list online, but that's not quite enough. Using the roundover on both sides took care of it.

Just a messy test fit

You can see from these pictures I had to trim the inner plastic trunk panel where it will contact the enclosure. To get this nice and straight, I ran it through my saw very carefully. Worked like a charm!

Here is the box sealed up. I made it as large as I could, even stealing a little bit of amp space.

I had to cut the inner panel further to clear the subwoofers. I created notches to let the subs fit right underneath, and this works well

To mount my processor, I decided to take advantage of the little cubby space on the driver's side. I made this board and I'm able to use existing threaded studs located at the bottom, to hold the panel

I used some of my strongest L brackets and created a nice, stable mount for the MS-8

The processor will fit like this, which will give access to the crucial microphone port, for calibration/tuning purposes.

 

[Lanson]

Minor update, I had a few moments free so I decided to work on the box some more. I first added some (extra) bracing, just to be smart. Deadening mat also added strategically

I sprayed the inside and outside with rubberized sealer. A great value at Lowes for only ~$3.90 a can, I bought a few JIC. This stuff effectively seals, and has become my preferred way to guarantee a sealed up box, vs. hitting the edges with caulking. It also works a little like a deadener.

I also added Ultratouch radiant barrier (like a jute padding) to certain areas

I then added poly batting and loose polyfil

The padding/insulation/etc should provide an apparent 10-20% extra space, so this new box should sit around 1.1-1.2 cubic feet (apparent) after displacement.

 

[Lanson]

So time for an update I think,

In order to power the rear and D-pillar speakers, I've implemented a Power Acoustik CA4-1600D to handle the job.

This is the stock RCA converter setup that's on the CA4-1600D, I've simply cut the factory wiring and soldered up some RCA's in a Y config.

I'm using Switchcraft short body RCA's, soldered up to Gepco EZ RCA wire

I've soldered in a high current XT60 connector to power up the amp with a quick-disconnect cable. I love using XT60 connectors

Here it is bolted up to the vertical panel, along with the MS-8

Here it is in its planned mounting spot

Fits!

 

[Lanson]

OK I just completed 89 full sweeps of the factory system (including results of each step of EQ up and down) , and I'm working on compiling, screen-shots, and analyzing of the data gathered. I need to source a place to store high res images and files so I can properly represent the research. Distortion analysis will also be part of this, since I was able to measure and capture that data at the same time (thank you REW!)

I can tell you that my initial analysis is that the distortion (at this test volume) was significant at some frequencies, and significant resonance as seen in the waterfall graphs. What this tells me is that A: the factory speakers aren't too good after all, and B: the vehicle is resonating like crazy, and it is severely screwing up the final response as heard by the ear. As example, I got spikes of more than 7% THD and I was "only" sweeping at around 100dB. I would have sweeped at lower volumes but I really wanted to capture what my ears were hearing when the system is pushed, and that's the door resonance, etc.

I can also say that, despite these bad things, the factory system is "voiced" very well and produces a nice smooth downward slope which is nearly ideal. Also the EQ sections produce predictable bumps up, or down.

 

[Lanson]

Here's the Bass EQ measurements, I tried to keep the mic dead stable, directly in front of me.

Mid EQ measurements, same with the mic

Treb EQ measurements, again keeping mic as steady as possible

 

[Lanson]

Left front without subwoofer, as swept via several points of measurement approximately around my ears.

LF sweeps averaged together

Left front without subwoofer, distortion profile.

 

[Lanson]

More to come, this is time consuming so it might take a while to get everything laid out.

 

[Lanson]

I'll get back to the measurements in a bit, here's an update on the build itself:

So this is the amp rack layout plan

I made these amp boards out of 1/2" MDF. They are beveled, smoothed, and set up with T-nuts to fasten the amp.

I used a cool crosshatch vinyl for the amp rack parts

Backside of the board

I decided to stagger the height to clear a few things. I had a clearance issue with the top panel's latch otherwise, plus I needed just a little bit extra width left to right so this got it done. PLUS, it let me add lighting as you'll see very soon.

Lighting

I wanted a sweeping shape, something that would let the light curve around, instead of being forced around a 90 degree angle. This way the light is smoother and more "floating".

Tested the setup, love it!

 

[Lanson]

Next up, I decided to tackle a part I've been dreading, which is doing the power wire run. I didn't how it would go, since the battery is under the passenger seat. Turns out it is semi-easy if you take a good path, and I think I figured out a good one. I started by running the wire through a hole here on the passenger side, under the 3rd row.

I ran this through the passenger side, with the rear quarter panel (its HUGE) pulled up and out of the way just enough to safely run the wire. I also ran the RF woofer (14 gauge 2 conductor, sheathed Monoprice wire) since I figured I better do it now.

I used pry tools to clear the plastic spacer panel and place the wire under. Plenty of room, once you get under that spacer.

This is right behind the front seat, passenger side. The wire tucks under the plastic spacer, and goes right into the battery box. So easy!

The panels went back together without a hitch.

The 300 Amp Stinger circuit breaker is also in the battery box. Man this is hard to photograph!

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6d839b3127cceec305a547ed600000030O30AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820160619031618176.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D3/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[img]
[img]https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6d839b3127cceec30ef6bbf1b00000030O10AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820160619031610773.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I also augmented the factory ground with 1/0 as well

 

[Lanson]

Back to measurements

RF sweeps

RF average

RF distortion
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6d839b3127cceec31dba81ebe00000030O00AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820160619044852584.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[img]




LR sweeps
[img]https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6d839b3127cceec301cc77e6600000030O00AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820160619050207243.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

LR average

LR distortion

RR sweeps

RR Average

RR Distortion

 

[Lanson]

Left front with subwoofer, sweeps

Left front average with subwoofer

Left front distortion (with subwoofer)

closeup with and without subwoofer (it doesn't do a lot.)

This is the average of all speakers playing

 

[Lanson]

Today I decided to try and get as much down as possible, starting with setting up the ground. I played with a few different options but settled on using the driver's 3rd row seatbelt bracket. I chose this because the passenger side is where the fuel pump is, and is likely be much noisier.

For MS-8 inputs, I decided to tap into the LF tweeter, RF tweeter, LF woofer, RF woofer, Center, and one of the sub channels.

The factory amp's outputs are all clipped, and soldered up, this an in-progress shot

For the rear doors and D-pillars, I have this wired up.

The wiring can get real complicated real fast.

In an attempt to get a grip on all this, I loomed up the MS-8 wiring and got it out of the way

One problem I saw coming was getting a turn-on signal. So I took a remote turn-on device from my stash, and tapped that into one of the subwoofer channel + wires. This turn on device can take speaker or other low voltage inputs and produce a solid 12V out.

Then, I tapped that output to a relay, so I can power up 4 amps, processor, lights, and who knows what. But at least I don't have to worry about a switch 12V anymore.

I re-routed my power wire to the outside of the 3rd row seat, and built a simple panel to hold my power and ground blocks. I used the screw holes from the subwoofer mount.

Next I mounted up my power and ground blocks

Then I laid some butyl rope down on the bottom of my sub box, and installed it, hopefully for the last time. I wanted to keep pressing but I ran out of time.

 

[dsga1]

@Lanson -- this entire thread is just GLORIOUS. thanks for taking the time to document and post. much appreciated and very enjoyable.

 

[dsga1]

Hello @Lanson, I see the JBL MS-8 is showing "discontinued" on crutchfield.com.

What would you recommend as alternative? Are there features unique to JBL MS-8 that you like? The remote display LCD looks fantastic.

Most of the other DSP options I see require manual visit to device with screwdriver.

any insight would be appreciated. -GA