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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I purchased my Durango, Ive never had the A/C function properly. When its activated, the unit doesnt instantly blow chilled air but switches back cool to hot. It can last for a few minutes like this then eventually comes back to a chill. I can count on one hand how many times its actually functioned near properly but each time Ive taken it back to the dealership, they assure me they cant find any problems. Ive even had a friend of mine who has 20+ in A/C installation/repairs take a look but we cant find a problem.
Does this happen to anyone else? Suggestions on what to look for as the issue?

Thanks
 

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put a pinch clamp on a heater hose (this will take blend-door issues out of the picture) and see if it still behaves like this.
 

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I will say it has nothing to do with the AC system but indeed as Tom said above the blend door is acting up. That will allow air to flow over heater core simultaneously when the AC is on thus giving that lukewarm effect and then it finally closes partially maybe not completely and cools a bit.
Could be something as simple as an adjustment or the foam gasket has seperated a bit and is blocking the door a bit.

STEVE
 

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Thanks for the information. It hit the 90's up here in the NorthWest so I went to use the A/C and it was working for a moment again. Got a little frustrated and pulled a Fonz move by hitting the controls and suddenly the A/C was working correctly. Now Im thinking the problem is in the controls.
 

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So the answer is to keep a 3 lb. hammer under the seat, just pound on the dash when it acts up!

If you go to a mechanic and explain as suggested above that it's a blend door, or control issue, they will stay away from the A/C and just trouble shoot the mechanism, my guess is it will be a fairly easy fix.

If Tom's heater hose pinch fixes it, and you're desperate for A/C NOW, you can leave the heater hose clamped or remove both ends and connect them with a hose barb connector (bins of them at Home Depot) until you get the problem fixed.
 

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need some ideas here. I am trying figure out what is wrong with my AC in my 01 Durango. There is freon in it and it blowing hot. the defrost and all works. i was told the door was closed to the Ac and need to be opened or replaced. I do most of my own repair to my vehicles, but this one I am not sure i want to do. if replacement is necessary, how much would it costs? I live in Texas and need my Ac for summer with 2 little kids.
 

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im having probs with mine too, but I figured out that I have a vacuum line that's off in the engine compartment and cant figure out how to reconnect it any ideas on how to do this any help will be appreacited.
 

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Any pics you can reference that show which hose to clamp?
I do not have any pictures but it seems most of the answers in this thread are spam in the amount of help they give. I am betting the heater hose they said to clamp is for the heater core.

When you are looking at the engine, there will be 2 rubber hoses that are part of the coolant system that run through the firewall to the dash. Inside the dash is the heater core. Myself, I would not want to clamp one of the hoses. It is circulatory from the water pump. I do not like blockages that may cause damage or cause issues with engine cooling.

Once you locate the hoses, and if they are easy to get to, figure out what diameter they may be. Go to a hardware store and get a metal barb that can be stuck into each end. Get some metal hose clamps to tighten them down as well. Remove the hoses with the engine COLD! and connect them together. If you are kinking the line, you may need to purchase 2 barbs and a length of hose to make a bypass.

Google how to make a heater core bypass for pictures and videos. This will stop the hot coolant from going to the core inside your vents. It won't fix the problem, but if you have a mixing problem where it is blowing both cold and hot, this removes the hot from the equation.
 

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I do not have any pictures but it seems most of the answers in this thread are spam in the amount of help they give. I am betting the heater hose they said to clamp is for the heater core.

When you are looking at the engine, there will be 2 rubber hoses that are part of the coolant system that run through the firewall to the dash. Inside the dash is the heater core. Myself, I would not want to clamp one of the hoses. It is circulatory from the water pump. I do not like blockages that may cause damage or cause issues with engine cooling.

Once you locate the hoses, and if they are easy to get to, figure out what diameter they may be. Go to a hardware store and get a metal barb that can be stuck into each end. Get some metal hose clamps to tighten them down as well. Remove the hoses with the engine COLD! and connect them together. If you are kinking the line, you may need to purchase 2 barbs and a length of hose to make a bypass.

Google how to make a heater core bypass for pictures and videos. This will stop the hot coolant from going to the core inside your vents. It won't fix the problem, but if you have a mixing problem where it is blowing both cold and hot, this removes the hot from the equation.
Thanks for the info. I mainly wanted to temporarily clamp the hose just to see if that's what the problem is. Being a woman in the south it can be difficult to find an honest shop to diagnose and repair problems that aren't clear cut. I would feel better if I knew what the problem was before I take it in. My rear air is blowing cold and the unit appears to be fully charged.
 

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Thanks for the info. I mainly wanted to temporarily clamp the hose just to see if that's what the problem is. Being a woman in the south it can be difficult to find an honest shop to diagnose and repair problems that aren't clear cut. I would feel better if I knew what the problem was before I take it in. My rear air is blowing cold and the unit appears to be fully charged.
When you first start the car, is the front AC cold (before the engine heats up)? The heat works by circulating the hot coolant through the heater core in the dash board. If the coolant is not hot yet, nothing to heat the air. I am not sure, but I would imagine there is a seperate heater core for the back in the durango.

A bypass can be made for under 10 bucks. And you only need the bypass if there is not enough slack in the hose to allow them to be hooked together safely. The metal barb should not cost more that $3 at a Lowes or Home Depot.
 

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Air Conditioning help requested

Hope this comes through as a new related topic. I have a 2008 4.7L Durango. For the past few years I have had intermittent "A/C" issues. Same story as others posted, dealer can't find the problem. Facts - rarely happens until car has been running highway speed for 1.5-2 hours. At that point, AC cuts off, and it's almost like you manually selected another option on the control panel like defrost or fresh air to the feet. The power drops from the blower into the cabin, and an audible change in the volume (increased) like it's trying to work harder. Except the air is not really coming out of anywhere. If you turn off the vehicle, go get a bite to eat, come back in 15-30 minutes and turn the car off... the AC works again. Sometimes for the 1.5-2 hours, sometimes less. Potentially related issue, the control panel (particularly just left of the standard left to right temperature control slide switch ) gets hot sometimes. Not hot enough to burn, but hot enough that if you hold your finger against that are, it is noticeable. (of course, the dealer can't/won't replicate this as they would have to send a tech on the road for that amount of time and that's $$$ to them. Been to the dealer with it numerous times, even recorded the sound, but it's next to impossible to bring it to them directly from a 2 hour drive with the problem actually visible. Love the truck, this one problem is irritating. Won't get rid of it for awhile either as I bought an awesome dealer warranty that I pay very little for anything other than expendables like shocks, brakes, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
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