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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, going to get my wife an amp and. sub for xmas, she has a 2018 Durango with the Beats Audio. Where is the best place to get a signal, is there an. output on a factory amp or head unit? Remote turn on?

Appreciate your feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
$350 for that? Costs more than the amp and sub combo itself. I hate newer vehicles, so glad I kept my older ride with none of this nonsense.
 

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Crutchfield has them for $280, I got mine gently used for half price. It, or you could go Maestro/DSR1 for about the same cost, are about the only way that you will get a good clean signal. Otherwise you would need to get a line level converter after the amp and all the processing that has been performed. If you do go that route be sure to grab the signal from the front door woofers and not the sub output as it has been documented to be a poor choice that distorts quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are many line converters available, I would expect however that getting the signal before the amplifier wouldn't require the converter. I haven't taken this vehicle apart yet so I am not sure where the components are laid out. Where is the amplifier on these?
 

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Would be nice, but the output is non-variable voltage so you have to go after the amp for a LOC. The amp is in the far rear drivers side. Can get to both sides of it by lifting out the storage 'cup' and also taking out the rear floor/storage. The PAC amp harness (Can get it for half price elsewhere) has the wire colors and descriptions in the manual which worked just fine in my '16.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Excellent, thanks for the feedback. Buying the wife an amp and sub, never wired one to a recent chrysler.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Excellent, thanks for the feedback. Buying the wife an amp and sub, never wired one to a recent chrysler.

are there any other line converters that are of decent quality? I see many available but not sue what will work well with the higher level outputs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would be nice, but the output is non-variable voltage so you have to go after the amp for a LOC. The amp is in the far rear drivers side. Can get to both sides of it by lifting out the storage 'cup' and also taking out the rear floor/storage. The PAC amp harness (Can get it for half price elsewhere) has the wire colors and descriptions in the manual which worked just fine in my '16.

That would be nice to be honest, upgrade the speakers, amp for the highs and add the sub. This may be beneficial for future upgrades after the sub is installed.

Thanks!
 

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Sure thing man. The harness can certainly be helpful no matter which path you end up taking. Crutchfield should have them for about $30.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Does anyone have information on the wiring for the amp? I plan to solder in a pig tail for the signal output. No more warranty so don't really need a harness, I just need to tap the signal from a non-tweeter output.

Also, from what I searched and found, this vehicle doesn't seem to have ANC as with the RAM. We had a harness made up to bypass it on the RAM but from what I've seen, ANC will have additional mics which the Durango doesn't seem to have. Can someone confirm or provide information on how I can confirm?

Appreciate all of the feedback so far, very helpful.

It has the Beats Audio system in case that makes any difference.

The one thing I've learned with the Durango is that the battery is under the passenger seat which is an SOB to get to but I ran the power wires back through the floor and while the 3rd row of seats made it a little difficult, it went fairly well.


Thanks again!
image1.jpeg
 

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18 DDSRT with Beats “Alpine” with sub

Removed the factory subwoofer. Took the speaker level harness that connected the subwoofer from the enclosure and spliced it to the speaker level input on my 10” Rockford Fosgate truck “box is slanted” powered subwoofer which fits in the floor bin and connected the ground to a bolt close by and ran the power wire to the battery.

The subwoofer doesnt require a remote wire as the amp that’s built into it can detect dc offset and kicks on automatically.

It’s sounds amazing and I have separate subwoofer control so I can leave the bass flat on the radio.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Worked out well. There is no need to get a high power converter at all, the high level inputs on the amp are perfectly fine with the output of the factory amplifier.

I did screw up at first, the wiring code calls for a gray and dark gray wire, they look almost identical and I thought the one I had was the + but I had it reversed.

I added just the amp and sub so far and it sounds great. I will say watch where you ground the amp as a log of the points are an intermitting ground, it works but not that well. Make sure the studs, bolts and washers are all scratched clean.

Thanks for all your input, very much appreciated.
 
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