OK thanks man. Good place to start.

 

Can always trade'er in for a new one.

 

That's great Don. LOL

IndyD

 

Keep us posted on the outcome Durangotan. Hopefully it won't involve removal of the dash to repair
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Now when you say stuff like "removal of dash" you really hit a lazy arse like me right in the gut, you know.

 

ill vote for expansion valve as well seen a lot of them go on early model D's

 

Now when you say stuff like "removal of dash" you really hit a lazy arse like me right in the gut, you know.

It could be worse, you could own a Bronze 4.7 LOL
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Bronze D's rule.

OK, I know so many of you're busying yourselves with the preparations for the plant tour, but I noticed something this morning that's additional to the actions described above. Here goes, with a brief summary since this is an old thread. (It's been cool lately so I haven't used the A/C in a while.

The A/C very suddenly stopped blowing cold. Really, doesn't blow very cool, either. So I did the usual stuff- felt the lines (nice and cold), listened for the compressor (stays on)?

Inside the cab I hear what sounds like a loud sigh that lasts for 2 seconds, and occurrs every 6 seconds, sharp.

Now that's as much as I'd posted so far. Well, this morning I needed the defroster so the A/C kicked on. When I got in the truck I heard the usual sigh, but the blower mtor was on low so I could hear better. Along with the sigh I could hear a motor kicking on and off for exactly the same duration as the sigh noise. Does that help anyone with a diagnosis?

 

The motor kicking on and off and the lousd sigh every six seconds are definite clues. The motor kicking on and off is most likely the compressor cycling, the sigh is refrigerant passing by the expansion valve. The fact that it happens every six seconds, or 10 times a minute is listed in the FSM as a sign of low charge. Normally, the compressor will run constantly until an evaporator temperature of 45 degrees is reached then it'll cycle with the evaporator temperature.

I'd begin by checking the charge or the system the pressures. This should be done using a set of gauges, not the single quickie gauge that they supply with the recharge kits. If the charge is low, it means there's a leak. It should be fixed before recharging.

 

Quoting Jimbo?

I'd begin by checking the charge or the system the pressures. This should be done using a set of gauges, not the single quickie gauge that they supply with the recharge kits?

AGREED 100% If you have access to a decent set of AC gauges, please give us high and low side pressures with engine at 1500 rpm AC on max full blower speed and windows down. Note the ambient air temp, relative humidity and vent temps. We can start from there.

Watch the gauges when you observe the sound and report back the fluctuation, if any, in the high and low side readings.

 

Guys that's awesome. Thanks a lot for that. So those sounds I hear are actually not just in my head. Then what about the voices I hear when I'm driving. They say such strange things. Wait, I think that only happens when the radio's on the spanish station?

Thanks again for the great tips, I'll be sure to check it out.

 

I looked for the low side fill cap and didn't see it. Does anyone know where it's or have a picture?

 

Look on the passenger side. On my '00 5.9, it's on the hardline coming from the condenser to the receiver/dryer. Mine has a black cap. It has the smaller diameter cap.

The high side is near the compressor on the line that connects to the rubber line.

 

Thanks jimbo.

 

WHOA There?

Better check that? I have a '98 and the low side (suction) is darn near right on top of the compressor and is the larger of the two male ports (as the low side typically is).

 

freeon low??



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You're half right. The suction (low) side is on top of the compressor, my error. But it's the smaller of the 2 ports. If it were the larger, it might be possible to open the high pressure side with the low pressure fitting, resulting in a real mess. I just checked it on my D.

 

My mistake?

You're correct sir. For R134a systems, small port = low side, large port = high side. Good thing the gauges are color coded - and different sizes for when those senior moments occur.

 

Right on top of the compressor, got it. I started on the lines and worked my way away from it. Duh. Thanks.

 

Dropped 2 cans of 134a in there and it's working as new now. I could absolutely have sworn the compressor was staying engaged but I was indeed wrong. Breaks a string of 18 years of not being wrong, dangit.

 

Now remember adding refrigerant without finding the leak is a band-aid fix. Check all your lines and the condenser for telltale oil stains. If you casn't find any leaks, it could be the evaporator, that's a common weak link. Unfortunately, the repair requires pulling the dash. $$$

 

I could absolutely have sworn the compressor was staying engaged but I was indeed wrong. Breaks a string of 18 years of not being wrong, dangit.

LOL. I can relate and find that very funny. Unfortunately, my string is often 18 minutes long instead of 18 years. Ouch!

IndyD

 

Now remember adding refrigerant without finding the leak is a band-aid fix. Check all your lines and the condenser for telltale oil stains. If you casn't find any leaks, it could be the evaporator, that's a common weak link. Unfortunately, the repair requires pulling the dash. $$$

Hello old thread, good to see you again?

Well, fast forward to today and nothing's changed. To save you the trouble of re-reading this here's a summary.

My A/C doesn't work. The previous posts in the thread all related to diagnosing that. Bottom line- The freon leaks out. I haven't tried to source the leak yet, because I didn't drive the truck last summer so it wasn't urgent. Well, now it's urgent since Summer isn't far away and I like to sweat only when I choose to do so.

I'd really love to take it to the shop but I lack the funds and a backup to drive. So unfortunately I really need to do this myself, while keeping the D road ready at basically all times.

How hard is it to find the source of an A/C freon leak? How hard is the evaporator to replace, and can it be dome incrementally while D'tan is still driveable? Can it be done DIY with success?

 

My money is 100% on the evap.

While my wrench did the job in under 5 hours, DIY is usually 3 days. Seriously. And label then zip lock bag EVERY section of screws for replacement thereafter. Make sure you get the blower box sealed. Stock seal is a goo, replacement seal is a gasket. One doesn't work very well. I'd recommend even adding a sealer around the two part section. Trust me on that.

http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92837&highlight=evap#92837

Change the core, blower motor and evap while you're there. No options! If you need part numbers, albeit from a 2000, let me know.

IndyDurango

 

Ouch, egads, yikes, holy cow, et al. Looks like it's going to be a long hot summer.