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Great write up! I almost followed suit with the whole deal but I'm going with the z automotive ccontoller.

Just picked up a 6.4 manifold with 6.4 fuel injectors included for my future cam swap.
 
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Just a little update. I think I've found a more "simple way to do the RAM intake under Durango hood. I was going to cut the elbow and glue the flange like our stock. However last weekend I was able to do some more measuring and thinking about the issue and I've come up with an idea of making an elbow with a flange that will bolt up to the intake instead of the throttle body and will move throttle body to a better position. This leaves plenty of clearance to close the hood and also has the effect of increasing the plenum volume. I have the 4" elbow and pipe left over from when made the cold air for the larger throttle body, so just need to order some aluminum plates for the flanges. If I get the parts by this weekend, I should be able to tig something together next week.

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any update on this? would love to see pics if available.
 
This is awesome, good job. Glad i found this. Whatd you end up spending total?
Disregard LOL i just went through the messages i didnt realize all the pages my bad! Also, this turned out awesome, i am impressed. I am definitely not a DIYer so this for me would not work lol. Would you think it would be smart to take it to Dodge and say “hey lemme get a 392 intake manifold on this” or should i take it to my guy (who i am close with and trust) and do it there with him? My only concern is that this seems to be a very involved upgrade that maybe a dodge dealership would be safest dealing with? If i tried this i think my rango would catch on fire lol.
 
Would you think it would be smart to take it to Dodge and say “hey lemme get a 392 intake manifold on this” or should i take it to my guy (who i am close with and trust) and do it there with him?
Dealers replace and repair with like-kind. Sometimes they don't even know how to do that. They won't have the wherewithal to make a parts swap like what this takes, nor do I think they'd be authorized by their manufacturer or the owner of the dealer itself. I'm sure there are exceptions to this opinion that may have occurred.

What AWEHLAGE performed here is for those who have the mind and skillset to do so or a speed/performance shop. And it was a bang-up job I might add.
 
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Dealers replace and repair with like-kind. Sometimes they don't even know how to do that. They won't have the wherewithal to make a parts swap like what this takes, nor do I think they'd be authorized by their manufacturer or the owner of the dealer itself. I'm sure there are exceptions to this opinion that may have occurred.

What AWEHLAGE performed here is for those who have the mind and skillset to do so or a speed/performance shop. And it was a bang-up job I might add.
yea i can agree with that too. Its a tough one. Whatre the thoughts on just getting an aftermarket intake manifold? Ideas? Is that worth it too? Or even have AWEHLAGE come to jersey and hook mine up 🤣
 
The z automotive srv controller is way easier to install and costs about the same to get all the components using the MSD method. It also suposedly helps with the hp drop off when the short runner valves open. Can't confirm that yet. When the weather cools I'd like the do a pre then post cam dyno.

The intake manifold swap itself is easier than you think. Lots of helpful videos on it. Mostly plug and play. If you get an aftermarket CAI specifically for the 6.4 it's even easier.

The wiring extensions for the throttle body and MAP sensor take the most time and precision. The intake wiring is only two wires. I just did them one wire at a time.

Too me It's more satisfying learning and completing these kinds of projects yourself. If you have the time to research, gather all the tools/parts, practice wire splicing and crimping. You should be able to do it yourself.
 
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The z automotive srv controller is way easier to install and costs about the same to get all the components using the MSD method. It also suposedly helps with the hp drop off when the short runner valves open. Can't confirm that yet. When the weather cools I'd like the do a pre then post cam dyno.

The intake manifold swap itself is easier than you think. Lots of helpful videos on it. Mostly plug and play. If you get an aftermarket CAI specifically for the 6.4 it's even easier.

The wiring extensions for the throttle body and MAP sensor take the most time and precision. The intake wiring is only two wires. I just did them one wire at a time.

Too me It's more satisfying learning and completing these kinds of projects yourself. If you have the time to research, gather all the tools/parts, practice wire splicing and crimping. You should be able to do it yourself.
yea maybe ill just take it to my shop and talk with him about it then if its not that bad. Just looking at the pics confused me lol
 
The z automotive srv controller is way easier to install and costs about the same to get all the components using the MSD method. It also suposedly helps with the hp drop off when the short runner valves open. Can't confirm that yet. When the weather cools I'd like the do a pre then post cam dyno.

The intake manifold swap itself is easier than you think. Lots of helpful videos on it. Mostly plug and play. If you get an aftermarket CAI specifically for the 6.4 it's even easier.

The wiring extensions for the throttle body and MAP sensor take the most time and precision. The intake wiring is only two wires. I just did them one wire at a time.

Too me It's more satisfying learning and completing these kinds of projects yourself. If you have the time to research, gather all the tools/parts, practice wire splicing and crimping. You should be able to do it yourself.
I used this when I did the motor swap. It was very easy to hook up and is adjustable through the evic screen and steering wheel controls. I also agree that a manifold swap is very easy.
 
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I gathered all the necessary information by searching online forums, Facebook and YouTube. I really only found one general source for the Durango otherwise many installs were for the Charger, Challenger and Grand Cherokee. So I decided to compile all the information and make this post for my 2016 R/T. There are minor differences between all platforms which small modifications had to be made most notably dealing with the emissions control vacuum harness.

I did not do the complete install at one time. This actually took me a couple weeks as I was waiting for parts and did a lot of the wiring before I even swapped the intake manifolds. I would say I have a total of about 15 working hours. You could probably slap this on and have everything wired in 3-4 hours and functional but I took my time and made it look as factory as possible. I did more than the average person would based on personal preference (aka my OCD) which you will see in the pictures. Enjoy!

Parts needed:
•6.4L/392 intake manifold from any Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler SRT vehicle
•Short runner valve (SRV) actuator (05038529AC)
•Short runner valve (SRV) wiring pigtail (68064996AA)
•MAP sensor (68271094AB)
•PCV Valve Cap (05038532AA) *5.7L will not fit correctly
•MSD 8969 digital RPM window switch
•Painless Performance 70213 Cirkit Boss or 30/40 AMP waterproof relay
•In-line waterproof fuse holders (3) if using the 30/40 AMP relay
•Micro2 tap-a-fuse
•Air intake (OEM or aftermarket for 6.4L Durango SRT) or modify current intake
•20 gauge colored primary wire
•16 gauge colored primary wire
•Split wire loom (1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”)
•Tessa tape (high heat exterior)
•Super 33+ electrical tape
•Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
•Zip ties
•Soldering iron
•Ring terminal electrical connector
•3/8” fuel line quick disconnect tool
•Blue threadlocker

Optional:
•6.4L/392 engine half covers (05281359AA & 052813358AA)
•New intake manifold gaskets (Mahle MS19825)
•New throttle body gasket (Mahle G32511)

Swappable parts from the 5.7L:
•PCV breather hoses
•Throttle body (*I upgraded to a BBK 85mm p/n 1842)
•Brake booster vacuum hose
•Fuel rail and fuel injectors
•Oil filler cap

Wiring Extensions:
•MAP sensor (8”)
•IAT sensor (4”)
•TPS (16”)

Wiring Connections:
SRV connector clip (p/n 68064996AA) facing up L to R from the rear (1-2-3-4)
Pin #1 (blue) - Pin 87 on relay (blue)
Pin #2 (black) - Ground
Pin #3 (yellow) - MSD yellow
Pin #4 - Not used

MSD Box (settings: mode=1, on=4,400rpm-4,800rpm off=8,000rpm)
Gray - Not used
Black - Ground
Yellow - SRV Pin #3 (yellow)
White - Fuel injector ground wire (brown/dark blue)on cylinder #8 with green rubber water seal (forward most wire on injector connector)
Red - Relay Pin 87 (yellow)

30/40Amp relay
85 (black) - Ground
86 (white) - Micro2 Tap-a-fuse 12V+ switched accessory (fused 10A) - Fuse #76 ESP
30 (red) - 12V+ constant battery (fused 30A)
87 (blue) - SRV pin #1 (blue) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A)
87 (yellow) - MSD (red) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A) *Note: re-soldered yellow wire from pin 87a to 87 for (2) switched power outputs

Wiring and associated components:
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SRV (short runner valve) pigtail
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TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
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MAP sensor
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IAT sensor
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Solid info!! I couldn't find this anywhere!
 
Did you need to use injector spacers for this? I've seen a couple of kits (they say the kit is for a ram) and they mention needing injector spacers to reuse the 5.7 injectors.
No you dont need spacers
 
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Solid info!! I couldn't find this anywhere!
FYI. There is a less expensive and easier way to do this.
Image

It is available from Modern Muscle Xtreme.
 
FYI. There is a less expensive and easier way to do this.
View attachment 116792
It is available from Modern Muscle Xtreme.
When I calculated the price with everything ordered from amazon, it came out to pretty much the same price. But yeah it's way easier.
 
Where are y’all finding manifolds? I didn’t search real hard today but I found one for $1000.
Ebay. Yeah they are very popular now. The one I found had the 6.4 injectors/ fuel rail, srv controller (which ended up being broke) and the map sensor. Was a steal at $970 shipped. That was sarcasm! A lot of people were bidding on it near the end. But for my overall build it was worth it.
 
The z automotive srv controller is way easier to install and costs about the same to get all the components using the MSD method. It also suposedly helps with the hp drop off when the short runner valves open. Can't confirm that yet. When the weather cools I'd like the do a pre then post cam dyno.

The intake manifold swap itself is easier than you think. Lots of helpful videos on it. Mostly plug and play. If you get an aftermarket CAI specifically for the 6.4 it's even easier.

The wiring extensions for the throttle body and MAP sensor take the most time and precision. The intake wiring is only two wires. I just did them one wire at a time.

Too me It's more satisfying learning and completing these kinds of projects yourself. If you have the time to research, gather all the tools/parts, practice wire splicing and crimping. You should be able to do it yourself.
besides the 6.4 manifold and z automotive controller what other parts are required? Going to start getting it all together to do this
 
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