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5.7L to 6.4L intake manifold swap

72K views 108 replies 22 participants last post by  awehlage  
#1 · (Edited)
I gathered all the necessary information by searching online forums, Facebook and YouTube. I really only found one general source for the Durango otherwise many installs were for the Charger, Challenger and Grand Cherokee. So I decided to compile all the information and make this post for my 2016 R/T. There are minor differences between all platforms which small modifications had to be made most notably dealing with the emissions control vacuum harness.

I did not do the complete install at one time. This actually took me a couple weeks as I was waiting for parts and did a lot of the wiring before I even swapped the intake manifolds. I would say I have a total of about 15 working hours. You could probably slap this on and have everything wired in 3-4 hours and functional but I took my time and made it look as factory as possible. I did more than the average person would based on personal preference (aka my OCD) which you will see in the pictures. Enjoy!

Parts needed:
•6.4L/392 intake manifold from any Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler SRT vehicle
•Short runner valve (SRV) actuator (05038529AC)
•Short runner valve (SRV) wiring pigtail (68064996AA)
•MAP sensor (68271094AB)
•PCV Valve Cap (05038532AA) *5.7L will not fit correctly
•MSD 8969 digital RPM window switch
•Painless Performance 70213 Cirkit Boss or 30/40 AMP waterproof relay
•In-line waterproof fuse holders (3) if using the 30/40 AMP relay
•Micro2 tap-a-fuse
•Air intake (OEM or aftermarket for 6.4L Durango SRT) or modify current intake
•20 gauge colored primary wire
•16 gauge colored primary wire
•Split wire loom (1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”)
•Tessa tape (high heat exterior)
•Super 33+ electrical tape
•Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
•Zip ties
•Soldering iron
•Ring terminal electrical connector
•3/8” fuel line quick disconnect tool
•Blue threadlocker

Optional:
•6.4L/392 engine half covers (05281359AA & 052813358AA)
•New intake manifold gaskets (Mahle MS19825)
•New throttle body gasket (Mahle G32511)

Swappable parts from the 5.7L:
•PCV breather hoses
•Throttle body (*I upgraded to a BBK 85mm p/n 1842)
•Brake booster vacuum hose
•Fuel rail and fuel injectors
•Oil filler cap

Wiring Extensions:
•MAP sensor (8”)
•IAT sensor (4”)
•TPS (16”)

Wiring Connections:
SRV connector clip (p/n 68064996AA) facing up L to R from the rear (1-2-3-4)
Pin #1 (blue) - Pin 87 on relay (blue)
Pin #2 (black) - Ground
Pin #3 (yellow) - MSD yellow
Pin #4 - Not used

MSD Box (settings: mode=1, on=4,400rpm-4,800rpm off=8,000rpm)
Gray - Not used
Black - Ground
Yellow - SRV Pin #3 (yellow)
White - Fuel injector ground wire (brown/dark blue)on cylinder #8 with green rubber water seal (forward most wire on injector connector)
Red - Relay Pin 87 (yellow)

30/40Amp relay
85 (black) - Ground
86 (white) - Micro2 Tap-a-fuse 12V+ switched accessory (fused 10A) - Fuse #76 ESP
30 (red) - 12V+ constant battery (fused 30A)
87 (blue) - SRV pin #1 (blue) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A)
87 (yellow) - MSD (red) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A) *Note: re-soldered yellow wire from pin 87a to 87 for (2) switched power outputs

Wiring and associated components:
Image

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SRV (short runner valve) pigtail
Image

Image



TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
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MAP sensor
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IAT sensor
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I
 
#62 ·
Great write up! I almost followed suit with the whole deal but I'm going with the z automotive ccontoller.

Just picked up a 6.4 manifold with 6.4 fuel injectors included for my future cam swap.
 
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#66 ·
Disregard LOL i just went through the messages i didnt realize all the pages my bad! Also, this turned out awesome, i am impressed. I am definitely not a DIYer so this for me would not work lol. Would you think it would be smart to take it to Dodge and say “hey lemme get a 392 intake manifold on this” or should i take it to my guy (who i am close with and trust) and do it there with him? My only concern is that this seems to be a very involved upgrade that maybe a dodge dealership would be safest dealing with? If i tried this i think my rango would catch on fire lol.
 
#69 ·
The z automotive srv controller is way easier to install and costs about the same to get all the components using the MSD method. It also suposedly helps with the hp drop off when the short runner valves open. Can't confirm that yet. When the weather cools I'd like the do a pre then post cam dyno.

The intake manifold swap itself is easier than you think. Lots of helpful videos on it. Mostly plug and play. If you get an aftermarket CAI specifically for the 6.4 it's even easier.

The wiring extensions for the throttle body and MAP sensor take the most time and precision. The intake wiring is only two wires. I just did them one wire at a time.

Too me It's more satisfying learning and completing these kinds of projects yourself. If you have the time to research, gather all the tools/parts, practice wire splicing and crimping. You should be able to do it yourself.
 
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#93 ·
do you still have to tap into the injector wire with the z automotive harness? I’m confused on that part
 
#72 ·
I gathered all the necessary information by searching online forums, Facebook and YouTube. I really only found one general source for the Durango otherwise many installs were for the Charger, Challenger and Grand Cherokee. So I decided to compile all the information and make this post for my 2016 R/T. There are minor differences between all platforms which small modifications had to be made most notably dealing with the emissions control vacuum harness.

I did not do the complete install at one time. This actually took me a couple weeks as I was waiting for parts and did a lot of the wiring before I even swapped the intake manifolds. I would say I have a total of about 15 working hours. You could probably slap this on and have everything wired in 3-4 hours and functional but I took my time and made it look as factory as possible. I did more than the average person would based on personal preference (aka my OCD) which you will see in the pictures. Enjoy!

Parts needed:
•6.4L/392 intake manifold from any Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler SRT vehicle
•Short runner valve (SRV) actuator (05038529AC)
•Short runner valve (SRV) wiring pigtail (68064996AA)
•MAP sensor (68271094AB)
•PCV Valve Cap (05038532AA) *5.7L will not fit correctly
•MSD 8969 digital RPM window switch
•Painless Performance 70213 Cirkit Boss or 30/40 AMP waterproof relay
•In-line waterproof fuse holders (3) if using the 30/40 AMP relay
•Micro2 tap-a-fuse
•Air intake (OEM or aftermarket for 6.4L Durango SRT) or modify current intake
•20 gauge colored primary wire
•16 gauge colored primary wire
•Split wire loom (1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”)
•Tessa tape (high heat exterior)
•Super 33+ electrical tape
•Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
•Zip ties
•Soldering iron
•Ring terminal electrical connector
•3/8” fuel line quick disconnect tool
•Blue threadlocker

Optional:
•6.4L/392 engine half covers (05281359AA & 052813358AA)
•New intake manifold gaskets (Mahle MS19825)
•New throttle body gasket (Mahle G32511)

Swappable parts from the 5.7L:
•PCV breather hoses
•Throttle body (*I upgraded to a BBK 85mm p/n 1842)
•Brake booster vacuum hose
•Fuel rail and fuel injectors
•Oil filler cap

Wiring Extensions:
•MAP sensor (8”)
•IAT sensor (4”)
•TPS (16”)

Wiring Connections:
SRV connector clip (p/n 68064996AA) facing up L to R from the rear (1-2-3-4)
Pin #1 (blue) - Pin 87 on relay (blue)
Pin #2 (black) - Ground
Pin #3 (yellow) - MSD yellow
Pin #4 - Not used

MSD Box (settings: mode=1, on=4,400rpm-4,800rpm off=8,000rpm)
Gray - Not used
Black - Ground
Yellow - SRV Pin #3 (yellow)
White - Fuel injector ground wire (brown/dark blue)on cylinder #8 with green rubber water seal (forward most wire on injector connector)
Red - Relay Pin 87 (yellow)

30/40Amp relay
85 (black) - Ground
86 (white) - Micro2 Tap-a-fuse 12V+ switched accessory (fused 10A) - Fuse #76 ESP
30 (red) - 12V+ constant battery (fused 30A)
87 (blue) - SRV pin #1 (blue) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A)
87 (yellow) - MSD (red) 12V+ switched power (fused 10A) *Note: re-soldered yellow wire from pin 87a to 87 for (2) switched power outputs

Wiring and associated components:
Image

Image

Image

Image


SRV (short runner valve) pigtail
Image

Image



TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
Image


Image

Image

Image

Image


MAP sensor
Image

Image


IAT sensor
Image

Image



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I
Solid info!! I couldn't find this anywhere!
 
#75 ·
FYI. There is a less expensive and easier way to do this.
Image

It is available from Modern Muscle Xtreme.
 
#74 ·
No you dont need spacers
 
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#78 ·
Ebay. Yeah they are very popular now. The one I found had the 6.4 injectors/ fuel rail, srv controller (which ended up being broke) and the map sensor. Was a steal at $970 shipped. That was sarcasm! A lot of people were bidding on it near the end. But for my overall build it was worth it.
 
#84 ·
So I have an unlcoked pcm from diablo and a i3 tuner from diablo. Can that control the SRV or is that just an hp tuners thing?
 
#85 ·
I know about that one, but there’s also one on the passenger side on the trans hump close to the firewall. It was easier to get to that the driver side one. View attachment 116183
Tony H posted this, it's where the can-c plug in is. Then you can control the rpm you want it to switch through the steering wheel controls. It's a pretty easy job. There's already hole in the firewall on the passenger side down in the heater/ac blower area. I used a hanger to make a wire hook for pulling wires through. I'll try to get you some pics.

Awehlage found a way to run it through the PCM but seems a bit more complicated than it's worth if you're going the Z Automotive way.
 
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#86 ·
Started working on this. Doing a little at a time. Extended the IAT sensor tonight. Does the TPS sensor really need to be extended 16 inches?
 
#87 ·
Really it depends on which way you mount the throttle body. If you do it like it's normally on the 6.4, upside down compared to the 5.7, then yes.
 
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#89 ·
Extended my IAT, MAP, and TPS. 6.4 ported manifold should be in next week. I’ll be using the mmx harness with z auto controller. Ignore the hvac duct tape lol. I rigged up my 6.4 afe intake to the 5.7 manifold just until the new 6.4 one comes in

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#90 ·
You're probably not the first to do something like that lol
 
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#92 ·
Nevermind just saw your older post, hole it there already
 
#96 ·
Yes those won't swap.

It's easier to find the hole from underneath the dash. Behind the carpet. It's up the firewall almost behind the glove box. Has a small circle plastic cap. It pushes out. Once it's out you'll be able to see the hole down in the blower area. Especially if you stick something through it to help you see it.
 
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#100 ·
Have everything i need to start this and realized i dont have the three bolts to mount the srv. Hoping the local dodge dealer has them so i can get this done this weekend
 
#101 ·
6509377AA

This is the actual part number.
 
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#105 ·
Called 3 dealers and they are all closed until Monday 😭. Just going to get the srv controller harness in place today I guess until I can get to the dealer monday for the bolts i need