MSD rpm window switch & 30/40 amp relay wiring (did not use the cirkit boss because it was $85!!)

Custom bracket for the MSD
•1/8” ABS
•1/4” rubber backer so it doesn’t slap against the ECM
*3/8” mounting hardware

Wired up on the bench

In the vehicle

Fuel injector connection

Relay mounting
•Drilled a hole under the hood seal and used SS fasteners

Ground connection to ECM ground strap

Constant power connection to fuse box battery terminal
•30A mini fuse waterproof holder

Switched power connection
•White wire routed under the fuse box and through a small hole
•10A Micro2 Tap-a-fuse

New throttle body gasket

New intake manifold gaskets

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Drilled and inserted knurled press inserts (E-Z LOK Knurled Press Insert, Flush, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 8-32 Internal Thread Size, 5/16 in Length - 4ZU14|240-008CR - Grainger)
•SS bolts and washers used to mount
•Didn’t want to rely on the OEM bolts in the plastic manifold for securing the throttle body. This is a much stronger mounting point for the throttle body.

New PCV valve cap made for the 6.4L
•It was blue (even though picture showed black online) so I threw some herculiner spray on it.

Intake manifold swap

Before (engine cover removed)

1. Remove air intake tube and disconnect all wiring harnesses and PCV hoses (*note I have a catch can installed)
•IAT sensor
•MAP sensor
•Throttle body sensor
•Fuel injectors
•Emissions control harness

2. Disconnect fuel line using 3/8” quick disconnect tool

3. Unbolt the intake (8mm bolts)

4. Disconnect vacuum hose in the back of the manifold

5. Remove intake, clean the cylinder heads and tape them up so nothing falls into your engine [emoji15]

6. Swap over the 5.7L fuel injectors/fuel rail onto the 6.4L intake manifold

7. Emissions control harness bracket will not fit on the 6.4L intake manifold so modifications needed to be made.

Before modifying. The bolt hole in the bracket and manifold bolt hole do not line up.

After modifying
•Last picture shows the intake manifold bolt washer had to be ground down to fit a little hump on the bracket.

8. Apply blue threadlocker into manifold bolt holes

9. Reinstall intake manifold bolting down to 110 INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS
•Reconnect vacuum hose in the rear before bolting down
•Bolt on the throttle body. You can swap over your 5.7L throttle body but I upgraded to a BBK 85mm.

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11. Install new air intake tube (ground off K&N logo and sprayed with Herculiner bed liner)
•K&N intake tube was purchased for the new 6.4L intake manifold as the old tube would not fit. I could have cut up the old tube but if I want to go back to stock I wouldn’t be able to use it. Called up K&N and they sent me just the tube from a 6.4L intake kit. To save costs I reused my Volant cold air intake box and filter. No need to spend extra money on a 6.4L Durango cold air intake!
**Volant does not make a specific CAI for the 6.4L Durango at the time of this post. So I guess that makes me the first?!?

12. Recheck ALL connections, turn the ignition to RUN (not start) to prime the fuel rails and check for fuel leaks.

13. Start engine again checking for anything out of the ordinary.

14. Rev the engine and enjoy!!

*I do have 6.4L half covers but they need to be trimmed to fit.

I am also grinding out the “powered by SRT” and putting something custom on there like this:

My OCD kicked in because if the factory had split loom I replicated on the extended wiring harnesses. If the factory used exterior fabric tape I used the Tessa tape. I tried to make it look nice and neat as best I could. If you have questions please ask!! Can’t wait for a dyno tune [emoji594]!!


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Impressive

 

Nice clean install. Have you noticed a difference before getting tuned? Where did you get the intake?

 

Nice clean install. Have you noticed a difference before getting tuned? Where did you get the intake?

Thanks!

You can notice the low end torque with the long runners for sure. Feels stronger coming out of a stop. I have to take a longer drive to get the short runners activated but most people who have done the swap say they don’t feel the horsepower increase on the top end as much as the torque increase on the low end. I also have to dial in the MSD RPM window switch setting that will be the best through a tune.

I got the intake off eBay (used) from a 2018 Dodge Charger with 18K miles. It came with everything I needed except for the PCV valve cap and SRV wiring harness. I looked for a while to find one that had most of the components still attached and not stripped down. It even came with the 6.4L fuel injectors, which I thought about using since they would push more fuel but I decided to stick with stock and resold the 6.4L injectors to offset the build cost. Using the 6.4L injectors would have required a tune immediately as the engine would run too rich and I don’t get a tune until December. The 6.4L injectors would have provided an increased HP gain though...[emoji53]


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Very nice write-up, great job!

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Thanks, appreciate it!!


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Any issues fitting the half covers on the driver side? Mine hits on the fuel line as well as the vacuum fittings

 

Yes, I will have to trim the drivers side cover for sure! Possibly the passenger side because of the large gauge power wire/wiring harness cover that crosses over the throttle body. I am going to use these pictures I found for reference and trim a little, test fit, trim a little, test fit, etc.

Let’s see your install!!


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Great write-up!

 

So let me ask this... was the swap worth it to you? Do you think there was enough difference that you would do it again?

 

For sure and it’s not even tuned yet!!!

Edit: I also made it very budget friendly compared to other intake manifold modifications.

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Notice any fuel mileage increase?

 

I have only driven 15 miles so far [emoji23] and it’s not tuned yet.


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Ok, gotta show this to anyone doing this. It's only available from Modern Muscle Xtreme.

 

Interesting [emoji848]


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NOW he tells us?!

 

This just dropped about 2 or 3 weeks ago.

 

It would be cool to control the RPM switch point through the instrument cluster...but that’s usually set it and forget it.


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I was watching Richard Holdener doing dyno testing of gen 3 hemi's and he mentioned that 2017 and up 5.7's also got a dual runner intake, it came on Ram trucks. I checked and it's true! I've been trying to buy a 6.4 intake for almost a year now but it's either not available or too much $$$. Well, we have another source and it's cheap. I quickly checked eBay and got complete one that included TB injectors and the switching solenoid for the runners for $320 shipped. I've since found them for around $200. I got motivated by this thread and will be installing it as soon as I get some time. Just need to order new gaskets.
Will probably also do some light clean up on the ports, since it's all open now.
Only thing is I'll have to redo my cold air again, since on Ram TB is pointing up instead of forward. Not a big deal.
Also, I'll check out that controller posted earlier but I did see an option for short runner solenoid when looking through OBDAlfa options, so may looks at that as well. I have HPTuners ECU, so I should be able to adjust switching through there in theory.

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Keep us posted on the RAM 5.7L intake manifold swap. Also, I have HPTuners and didn’t see anything there which I didn’t think I would. Try to find a wiring diagram for the RAM to see where the SRV is wired to the vehicle to integrate possibly into the ECU. I think it would be hard to activate a feature that didn’t originally exist as an option for the Durango 5.7L platform. I like your thinking though!


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Engine half covers trimmed, painted, “HEMIfied”, purge valve relocation and new 6AN fuel line fittings with braided nylon hose. 5.7L to 6.4L intake manifold swap complete [emoji736]

Passenger

Driver

VHT GM Satin Black High Heat Paint

 

So you went with custom fuel rail and vacuum lines? You've outdone yourself once again. Great looking work. What's the part numbers for those?

Engine half covers trimmed, painted, “HEMIfied”, purge valve relocation and new 6AN fuel line fittings with braided nylon hose. 5.7L to 6.4L intake manifold swap complete [emoji736]

Passenger

Driver

VHT GM Satin Black High Heat Paint

 

Super cool seeing someone else who swapped in a 392 intake manifold! I'm really impressed that you did all the work yourself. I had initially started in on it solo, but wound up running out of time for a variety of dumb reasons and just had the performance shop do the heavy lifting for me. I'm glad that I did, given my total inexperience with wiring. Your project turned out great!

 

Super cool seeing someone else who swapped in a 392 intake manifold! I'm really impressed that you did all the work yourself. I had initially started in on it solo, but wound up running out of time for a variety of dumb reasons and just had the performance shop do the heavy lifting for me. I'm glad that I did, given my total inexperience with wiring. Your project turned out great!

Thanks! I’m a true DIYer plus knowing what a shop would charge me would be crazy. Plus the less hands that touch her the better!


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Update: replaced the custom 6AN/braided fuel supply line with an OEM MOPAR 392 fuel supply hose. Was having some issues with the startup fuel pressure. My assumption was the rubber fuel line wasn’t keeping a consistent pressure upon shutdown so the startup wasn’t pressurized like it should be. So much for being cool [emoji41]!!

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The ram intake does point up but I'm sure I'll be able to make it work, will measure things up this weekend if I get a chance.

 

[emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360]

Do you have a tuner?


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Don't have a tuner yet, still looking for someone who can tune HPTuners without leaving the car there for 2 weeks.
I may just have to do all myself (as I've done in the past with other projects) if I can't fine anyone to just do a dynotune as usual, 1-2 hours and done.

 

Sent you a PM.


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So, I measured up the RAM intake and there is indeed very little rom on top, not with stock hood anyway. I'm going to investigate rotating or even cutting off the elbow and gluing or hot-welding the throttle body flange to the intake directly.
Alex...

 

So, I measured up the RAM intake and there is indeed very little rom on top, not with stock hood anyway. I'm going to investigate rotating or even cutting off the elbow and gluing or hot-welding the throttle body flange to the intake directly.
Alex...

Just a little update. I think I've found a more "simple way to do the RAM intake under Durango hood. I was going to cut the elbow and glue the flange like our stock. However last weekend I was able to do some more measuring and thinking about the issue and I've come up with an idea of making an elbow with a flange that will bolt up to the intake instead of the throttle body and will move throttle body to a better position. This leaves plenty of clearance to close the hood and also has the effect of increasing the plenum volume. I have the 4" elbow and pipe left over from when made the cold air for the larger throttle body, so just need to order some aluminum plates for the flanges. If I get the parts by this weekend, I should be able to tig something together next week.

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Well I got rid of the MSD Window Switch setup in favor of using my unlocked PCM and HPTuners to control the SRV. Used all factory plugs and terminals. Fully integrated without any aftermarket parts! BTW MUCH cheaper than any aftermarket setup if you have a tuned PCM.

Details:

SRV connector clip facing up L to R front rear (1-2-3-4)

Pin 1-Red
*Fused ASD Relay Output BN/YE (PDC C3in 7) 16 gauge 20A inline fuse

Pin 2-Black
*Ground BK (PCM ground strap)
16 gauge

Pin 3-Green
*SRV Actuator Control Signal DB/GN (PCM C2in 53)
18 gauge

Pin 4-Blue
*SRV Sense Output DB/YE (PCM C2in 60)
18 gauge

Routed the wires following the yellow line. Through the black plastic cover at the front of the engine, under the engine cover between the fuel injectors and coil packs then behind the intake manifold to the SRV.

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How is that working out? Looking forward to a follow up on this

Does the pcm need to be unlocked for this to work? If you're just splicing into existing wires, can't it work with the oem pcm?

Well I got rid of the MSD Window Switch setup in favor of using my unlocked PCM and HPTuners to control the SRV. Used all factory plugs and terminals. Fully integrated without any aftermarket parts! BTW MUCH cheaper than any aftermarket setup if you have a tuned PCM.

Details:

SRV connector clip facing up L to R front rear (1-2-3-4)

Pin 1-Red
*Fused ASD Relay Output BN/YE (PDC C3in 7) 16 gauge 20A inline fuse

Pin 2-Black
*Ground BK (PCM ground strap)
16 gauge

Pin 3-Green
*SRV Actuator Control Signal DB/GN (PCM C2in 53)
18 gauge

Pin 4-Blue
*SRV Sense Output DB/YE (PCM C2in 60)
18 gauge

Routed the wires following the yellow line. Through the black plastic cover at the front of the engine, under the engine cover between the fuel injectors and coil packs then behind the intake manifold to the SRV.

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Killer detailed install in this tread...not sure how I miss it, but HATS OFF awehlage!!!

 

Thanks! Also, sent you a PM on another matter [emoji846]


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Huh? English please.

 

I’m asking 2 that have done half cover to message me so I can install mine that are coming in

 

If you reread what you posted before you will see that it made no sense. Just follow that thread and you will see the places he had to cut. If you aren't making any other mods to your motor then chances are that you won't need to make any cuts to the covers but you won't know until you test fit them. It's when you add parts from SRT motors or add an oil catch can that you might have to make some cuts. Keep in mind that the thread you referenced was for a motor with a 392 intake manifold, not a stock manifold.

 

Thanks for information I’ll just wait till can get message from one of the guys that did there half cover I have JLT catch can here just waiting for covers to come in