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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stopping at a light on way to work this morning heard a whirring noise that sounded like an airplane going over head. Turned down the radio to realize it was my truck making the noise. I continued on thinking this isn't good. Then noticed the 4 lock light on my dash flashing. I decided to pull over and noticed when I turned my wheel the truck acted like it didn't want to go at all. As if the brakes were locked up. Luckily I was near by a local shop and drove the truck there and left it. The shop however got into the truck and found nothing wrong. They drove it twice and found nothing wrong. It also had no codes. I have done a little research and found that the ac pressure switch can cause this, as well as the transfer case shift motor. My question is can I replace the AC pressure switch my self without letting all the refrigerant out. Or is it something I need to have a shop do? Has any one had this problem before what was your fix? I'm pretty sure this problem will return, I want to nip it in the bud now!:confused:

Any other ideas are most welcome.

BTW this is 2005 4.7 limited model 4x4 of course.
 

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DB:
This issue was more prevalent on the Gen 1 D's, but some Gen 2's had it as well. IIRC, for the Gen 2's, replacing the transfer case shift motor was the remedy.
You can disconnect the harness connector to it to prevent further issue until you can replace the SM.
The less likely but more costly option is the unit that signals the SM on the T case.

Don
 

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Had the same issue. Truck going into 4 lock whenever it felt like. Changed the transfer case shift motor ( faulty switch in it ) and it works just great. Understood at the time that the problem isn't all that uncommon and it is a really expensive fix for a simple switch fault! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so I disconnected the shift motor at the transfer case, took the pigtail out, I now have a SVC4WD light which I'm sure is normal..lol My question now is does this mean I only have 2wd now? Or do I still have AWD just will not go into four lock?
 

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Hard to tell. The transfer case is probably wherever it was when you pulled the plug.

As long as you aren't in a 4WD locked-case mode you are safe to drive.. or, said another way, if you can slowly go around a curve on a hard surface without binding, you are safe to drive..
 

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DB:
Tom's assessment is good. Since the Gen 2 Durango 4x4 do not have a 2wd option, you would have AWD at minimum, or possibly 4Lock or 4Lo depending on what position the shift motor ended up in.
You are correct that the Service 4wd light is due to the unplugged connector.
Sounds like a new shift motor might be your remedy.
Don
 

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X4 Replace that shift motor
STEVE
 

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Mine is in the shop right now for this. Dodge dealership wanted $900 just for the shift motor. I took it to my regular mechanic and he replaced it for $500 parts and labor. It worked for a day then started acting up again and the service light came back on. He put it back on the computer and it gave a code for high voltage. Now I have to replace the FCM(front control modular) turns out that was bad and put to many volts to the shift motor and burnt it up. He didn't know if it was a dealer only item, so I called the dodge dealership and they quoted me a price of $1200 to replace the FCM and reflash the computer. Mechanic called me back and said he found one for $150-$200.
 

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Hanne:
Sorry t hear of your T case dilemma. I think the FCM is the Forward Control Module which is one of the fancy shmancy upgrades to the Gen2 platform over the Gen 1's
The FCM has been a sore point for several Chrysler vehicles, and the $1200 price tag is no fun after the warranty is gone. It's good to hear that your shop was able to source a used one for a much better price. Hopefully it will not croak as the oem one did.

Don
 

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WOW...... I will correct myself as there is indeed a Front Control Module or FCM.
It does a scary number of things that I tried to copy/paste here, but either my computer or this system won't allow it.

Don
 

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Durango TC motor among other things

I don't know if this post is too old, but I had this same issue with my 05 Durango. After doing some research I too replaced the Transfer case motor, only to have the problem persist. So, I ended up just unhooking it and have gotten comfortable with the SVC4WD light on the gage. Not that I ever do any offroading with it, but I did pay to have both 4WD options and now only have the AWD. Now I guess I need to find a used FMC to see if I can plug the TCM back into the vehicle.

Yea I looked up what it did and it was crazy lol!!!
 

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I don't know if this post is too old, but I had this same issue with my 05 Durango. After doing some research I too replaced the Transfer case motor, only to have the problem persist. So, I ended up just unhooking it and have gotten comfortable with the SVC4WD light on the gage. Not that I ever do any offroading with it, but I did pay to have both 4WD options and now only have the AWD. Now I guess I need to find a used FMC to see if I can plug the TCM back into the vehicle.
There has been a lot of noise about this issue on the interwebs and I compiled several bits of info that can get this fixed for you. For the vast majority of folks the issue is wiring. I think in the cases where transfer case motor was swapped out, the unplugging/replugging of the wiring was enough to allow for cleaner connections for a short time before the crud/corrosion built back up again...at least that's my theory. Here's all the info I found (warning, it's a lot):

These problems can be caused by the car’s computer (Front Control Module [FCM]), the Instrument Cluster (wiring is routed through it), the Transfer Case itself, the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor, the Wiring Harness, and the Transfer Case Switch. It's been my experience that it's mostly wiring issues.

Your dealer may want to connect their diagnostic computer to your interface socket of your car and read codes. This did not work in my case since the problem requires deeper data collection/evaluation (by reading codes, my dealer said the FCM was the problem. Ask your dealer if you can use the recording module (Flight Recorder) that attaches to your computer interface socket and then drive the car (we used the recorder over the weekend) gathering data (understand it is expensive, so the company may want a deposit if you don’t return it [ours did not]. When a problem occurs (for example 4LO starts blinking in the Instrument Cluster), you push the activation button on the recorder. The recorder goes back in stored history recording 1 minute of past events and then records 1 minute more after you pushed the botton capturing 2 minutes of total data. It captures all the running/code information! We gathered 17 different events (we kept a log of the events). The mechanic then analyze what was going on (previously every time we took the car into a mechanic, the car was on best behavior and would not show any problem). After gathering 17 events, the mechanic had 34 minutes of the car failing in some aspect that he reviewed as if it were happening in real time with the mechanic on hand. Plus he could “Play it again, Sam,”

After looking at the data, the dealer’s mechanic said all errors pointed to the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor (remember, in the beginning when stored codes were used, it was the FCM). Specifically, the Mode Sensor was not telling the system what was going on and sometimes even lied about the Shift Motor’s position.

A short time later, the repaired car was returned with a new Shift Motor/Mode Sensor and, to date, not one problem. A caution, we are also waiting to find out if something caused the Mode Sensor to fail. After a physical examination of the unit, it appears all the problems originated from the Mode Sensor!

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I'm calling this problem RESOLVED. I touched base with the tech that did the last work on my truck. What he did was a 'pin test' where he removed the TIPM connection that leads to the TC actuator. Several pins were not gripping like they should. I guess what this entails is inserting a pin in each electrical connection and seeing how much resistance it has against pulling the pin out. The tech said several connections has very little grip on the pin. He tightened those connections so they would grip the pin on the pigtail better, then coated everything with dielectric grease and I have had no problems since then. They recommend removing all pigtails from the TIPM and checking all connections and greasing everything. I hope this helps someone with the same problem down the road. Before you replace the TIPM or TC motor assembly, check the electrical connections at all the pigtails and make sure the connection is solid. Add dielectric grease and see if that resolves the issue. I wonder how many TIPM's were replaced unnecessarily???

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I got hung up on a post from another person having the same issues that related the problem to their AC Pressure switch, i took my TIPM out and examined all of the connector pins, on connector C7 (Smaller blue 14-way connector) pins 6 & 13 were heavily corroded, i cleaned them off with "Deoxit" and checked the pins seemed to be good shape once cleaned, them, I traced them down on the wiring diagram and schematics, pin 6 is unused so i turned my attention to pin 13, which turned out to be A/C Pressure ground..( Interesting given the other person who said replacing his a/c pressure switch cleared his problem) I traced those wires back to the AC pressure switch, pulled the connector and the ground pin was also corroded, so i cleaned it off as i did with the others and reseated the connector, this was a week ago and I have no seen my 4wd low problem since doing this.

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I also pulled the tipm which is the fuse panel , located on the left front fender under the hood. I removed the wire plugs , cleaned and sprayed them with an anti corrosion. Pulled the plug at the AC pressure switch and did the same. Then after having the transfer case motor unplugged because of it going into 4 LO for a year I did the same to that plug ( cleaned and sprayed). Three weeks and no issues.

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are you checking the AC pressure switch connector at the AC side? if not that should be checked and cleaned as well. also keep in mind you probably have Front Axel Disconnect (FAD) actuators that are the other 50% of your AWD/4WD systems. To fix mine i had the Fad actuator replaced the transfer case motor and i had to clean the corroded pins on the TIPM and AC pressure switch connector i basically rejuvenated that whole 5v dc loop just a thought

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Discussion Starter #15
I just decided to leave mine unhooked, been fine, and the SVC 4WD light doesnt bother me. Rather be safe than sorry.
 

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2 years ago when I bought my 2005 ST Durango, the transfer would not lock into 4x; the light would just blink. A year ago, I was screwing around and decided to turn the knob again and lo and behold, it went into 4lock and worked fine....until yesterday morning. I cranked and backed up, stopped and went to put the xfer back into AWD(it was muddy parking the night before) and the blasted thing would not switch out of 4by and thus, it is still stuck there. Anyone know how to get it out of 4lock?
 

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Bout:
You need to put the trans in neutral when switching in or out of 4 LO. It is a good thing to "exercise" the T case on a monthly basis to keep the shift motor working properly.

Don
 
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