Wow! On a 5.xL I'd have a good idea where the oil had gone, but on the 4.7l I have no idea??

Obviously change the oil to get a proper fill, check the pan for leaks, and wait for the 4.7ers to chime in with help.

IndyDurango

 

Sounds like your oil change was so far overdue that you just burned it away. My wife's Mazda did this a long time ago. She went over 10,000 miles on regular Dino oil and complained her car was making noises. I took it down the street, went right back home, checked the oil, and promptly put in 4 quarts (she was lucky!) 100,000 miles later, we sold the car (last month.)

Fill it up, run it a few days to get the remaining oil mixed in real good, and then change it all out including a new filter.

To stop this from happening, change the oil more often.

 

Check the PCV valve. Sounds like it's gone bad and you're sucking oil directly into the combustion chambers.

 

Do as SKITZO said and then, as Mike, said change that PCV valve. Letting the change interval go to 15K will surely take it's toll after only a short amount of time.
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Check the PCV valve. Sounds like it's gone bad and you're sucking oil directly into the combustion chambers.

Thanks for the tip! Is there an easy way to get the PCV valve out? It's on the side of the oil filler tube and it looks like I need to remove the air filter housing to get at it.

 

Its been almost 15,000 since my last oil change

Was that 15,000 mile oil change interval an accident?

3000 miles on Dino oil, about 5000 miles on Synth oil. Even the crazy oil companies only set their claims at 10,000? which in reality is insane.

Once you have the oil changed, don't be surprised to find a damaged engine.

? Or are you pulling our legs to gauge the reaction? :bugeyed:

IndyDurango

 

Indy, yes it was an accident. The manual says 7500 miles, and I usually change at 5000. Looks like I slipped a digit.

How will I know if it's damaged just by changing the oil? :wall: :wall:

 

Listen for new noises and watch for oil and fuel consumption. Those would be the external indicators.

Here's a mug for you with well wishes that there's nothing to worry about mate.

IndyDurango

 

Even at 15K it shouldn't be down 4 qts. When I was running synthetic I ran 8K and, when sent out samples, Blackstone said there was still life in the oil. I think something else is leaking as there should have been no change in level. I'd warm it up, change the oil and filter, and then watch it closely to see if it's disappearing again. My 4.7 is leaking a little oil from the valve covers and that would be my first guess for a leak.

Damage from running it low could be anything from high oil consumption to completely blowing it up.

 

To get PCV out, take off the hose to it, push in a tad and twist it 90° and then pull it out.
Steve

 

5k mile intervals for oil changes with dino oil (as stated Dodge, calls for 7500 miles on dino oil.) 15k is way too long, but 3k is way too short with today's modern oil.

As to where it went? while it's likely you burned some of it, I burn < .5 qt for 5k mile in mine. I'll also note that you should still have 2qts in it even if you were 4 qts low. So at least you didn't run the engine dry and you may get lucky.

 

I can't help but wonder if these extended intervals are what's posted for severe duty service. If no, go to that schedule. The temp ranges our engines run for emissions control isn't the easiest thing on oil life, as well as the poor air quality for engines to run in. If you live in a large city/suburb environment, you qualify for severe duty service anyhow. I know it's more costly to follow that schedule, but it's well worth it in the long run.

 

I have always believed that my secret to high mileage is changing the oil at shorter intervals. An oil change is mega cheaper than a new engine. Just sayin'!

+1 on Blackstone. I recommend them 100%

IndyDurango

 

With it that low you'll aerate the oil so it doesn't fill all of the passages and the oil pump but still have a readable level in the pan. Since a lot of air got pumped, there's possibly some damage. As Indy stated, more frequent intervals lead to longevity. The old standard of 3 months/3000 miles for dino is gold while with synthetics 5000 is great. Most manufacturers are only worried that you make it past their warranty limit. With today's engines, 2-3 times that limit or even more should be normal for everyone.

 

Thanks for all the comments & suggestions guys, I certainly agree with them and will certainly be more careful in the future.

I ordered the PCV valve from OC Dodge and will change it out tomorrow (cost $21.50 -- yikes!) I looked very carefully and don't see any valve cover, oil pan, or other visible signs of leakage. I also had someone follow me and they don't see any smoke.

A buddy told me he had a similar problem on his Mitsubishi Montero SUV, suddenly 4 qts low with no clue how, and his oil change guy did some "flush on the oil system" that supposedly helped remove any sludge buildup caused (it cost $100!) He never had any oil loss problems after that. So, is such an "oil flush" advisable/effective??

 

A buddy told me he had a similar problem on his Mitsubishi Montero SUV, suddenly 4 qts low with no clue how

Note: That isn't the same problem. Yours wasn't "suddenly 4 qts low", it was low from neglect and not changing the oil in 15,000 miles. Totally different thus the cause/effect/outcome aren't necessarily corollary.

As for the flush, I wouldn't do anything other than what's already been suggested. Quality oil & filter, 1000 miles MAX, change it again with quality oil and filter, maintain correctly thereafter and pray no damage has already occurred.

IndyDurango

 

Because of the catalytic converter, you won't see smoke out the back end (any oil will get burned up in the cat), but it could lead to early cat failure. However, since you're not really complaining about a performance issue, I wouldn't worry about that. Change the PCV and oil as Indy and I suggested and then change the oil at the proper severe duty intervals. I always say 3 mo/3000 mi on dyno oil and up to 5k on synthetic.

 

Mike and Indy, thanks! Will do and report back in a few months on the outcome. One more question, dumb one perhaps. When I open my oil filler tube, I can see straight down into the crankcase. Shouldn't there be a baffle/oil separator at the top of the fill tube? I saw references to that on the other Durango site.

 

There's supposed to be a removable baffle in there
Steve

 

I wonder if MY2000 4.7s maybe didn't have the baffle and it was only added after the uproar about the brown foam in the oil cap?

 

The baffle was to combat the yellow muck (just an oil/water paste and harmless) and it was added at a later date.
Steve

 

Since 00 was the first year for the 4.7 in the D, I bet there was no baffle. I know that my 01 did have it, but I believe there was an upgrade kit that provided a new filler tube and baffle for those wanting to add it.

Don

 

My 2000 didn't have the baffle in the filler tube either, but my 2001 does. I believe the upgrade kit has the cap and baffle.

 

Update:

After changing the oil and PCV valve, the D runs and sounds great with no change in gas mileage noticed. Sure enough though, after 1500 miles, I'm a quart low on oil. I'm going to go ahead and change it again and will keep an eye on it. Hopefully my engine isn't damaged. Are there any additives/etc. folks recommend to help cut down on oil loss/burn? I don't notice any leaks or smoke.

 

Take a look at your spark plugs. If you're burning oil at that rate, you should see signs of it on the plugs as deposits and discoloration.