[MWeed]

Personally, I'd replace them just to be safe. Bad gears can hurt a good chain.

 

[greendurango]

Should I use thread-locker on the bolts that attach the cams, sprockets and tensioners, I didn't see any mention of it in the FSM?
Thanks!

 

[greendurango]

More progress? slow progress that is! :lol: I finally got the cover off after breaking 2-3 jaw pullers! :cheesy: I made a

, it can be pushed down with one finger and hardly has any tension on it! The driver's side was pretty tight and I couldn't push up on it.

More pics to come.

 

[greendurango]

:wall: :wall: :wall: :furious: I started on pulling the chains and first undid all the guides, low and behold, the %$^& passenger side cam spun a little so it's no longer at 12 o'clock, it's more like 3 o'clock! Arrrgghhh!! I didn't realize they were under that much tension that they'd spin. is this easy to correct? since it's all coming off anyway, can I just turn it back to 12? Any help appreciated!

 

[dakattack]

Yes you can! Happens all the time and no harm done.

 

[greendurango]

Oh OK, so do I just rotate it back to 12 when I get all the chains set?

I had emailed a guy called Nick, he runs airrampeformance.com, and this is what he told me to do.

Not a problem. Your sprockets are timed to the chains so you just turn the cam to align the key to the sprocket key hole which, since the sprocket should already be aligned to the chain, it's the cam that needs to be turned and aligned to the sprocket.

For me this is the easiest way to do the chains & sprockets on the 4.7L.

Needed - bag of 4" Zip ties
Large piece of CLEAN cardboard box laid out on the ground.

Lay the sprockets on the cardboard as they'd sit in the engine
Align your chains to the sprockets making sure your timing marks are all lined up.
Zip tie the sprockets to the chain in a manner that'll hold the chains to the sprockets and secure the timing marks in place BUT allow you to mount to the engine without removing them. Verify timing marks are lined up.
Lock each chain to the sprockets with the zip ties and double check your timing marks are still aligned.
Pick up the assemble by the two cam sprockets and gently mount the idle sprocket & crank sprockets and turn the crank to align to the sprocket.
Now run the cam sprockets up into the head and line the cams keys to the sprocket.
Insure the guides and tensioners are mounted and torqued.
Pull the tensoner pin.
Triple check and verify all the timing marks are lined up.
Verify the cam keys are in the cam sprockets and then torque the cam bolts.
Remove all the zip ties.
Verify all the work.

Remember, timing is EVERYTHING. You must insure once the chain marks are lined up with the sprockets that they NEVER lose that relationship throughout the install procedure.

If you have any additional questions, please feel free to contact me.

Nick D'Ambrosia
www.AIRRAM.com
817-800-7760

Just thought I'd share because someone else will probably have to do this one sooner or later!

 

[greendurango]

got my friend who works at a ex-dodge dealer to set my gears, guides and chains. so, after the set back with the timing cover, the re-assembly begins. :lol: what can I use in place of the special tool to reinstall the harmonic balancer? thanks!

 

[dakattack]

A hammer! Seriously, how I do it without the tool is to TAP (not wail on it) the balancer back on the crank far enough for the crank bolt to thread on 3 to 4 turns, find something to hold the crank from turning, tighten the crank bolt down until the balancer is in place, and then torque the crank bolt to specs.

 

[greendurango]

so a hammer can be used? I'd be afraid I'd mess something up, I don't use a hammer lightly!! :lol: hahaha :cheesy:

 

[RennGent]

My D is currently at 115k miles and I don't know if the timing chain has ever been replaced. I bought the truck with 50k miles on it and it was a fleet vehicle so I'm assuming it hasn't. My brother, who's currently attending UTI to become a mechanic, is encouraging me to replace the timing chains and will help me with it next weekend. I drive my D hard and want to do the maintenance that's needed, so I figure this will be good to do.

I found this kit that looks complete for $162. From reading this thread and some other resources, I assume I should replace the chain and sprockets? Basically whatever's in the kit?

Also, what special tools will I need? I was looking at the list greendurango posted above but didn't know if all of those were needed for my 2003 D. Also, given the price of all of those tools, it seems it might be the same or cheaper to just pay a shop to do the work. I haven't called to see what a shop would charge for this, but that's easily a couple hundred dollars in tools. I'd like to spend no more than $300 total (parts and tools), but I'm not sure what kind of choices I'll have.

I've never torn into an engine before so this will be new ground for me. I don't have the FSM for my D, just the Haynes manual and reading about the procedure I'm rather hesitant, but perhaps it sounds worse than it is?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[greendurango]

I'd recommend the Cloyes kit with sprockets (they make the OEM stuff) and Amazon had a good price on their kit a while back when I did mine. a lot of those tools can be substituted; i.e. a block of wood can be used instead of the wedge tool and, if you have a extra set of hands, you can do without the sprocket holder. make sure you start with #1 at TDC and MARK ALL YOUR TIMING MARKS, both cams should be at 12 o'clock!! you'll need a new timing cover gasket, new antifreeze and a fresh oil change because antifreeze will run into the oil pan once you tear into it. if you run into any snags along the way, PM me and I'll help ya.

 

[RennGent]

Thanks greendurango. Since the Cloyes kit runs about $400 right now, that really stretches me for the money to do this replacement. I mostly got into this since my brother recommended because I have over 100k miles on the truck now. I checked both the manual for my D and the Haynes book and neither mention a timing chain as recommended maintenance at 100k. While I want to trust my brother since he's now attending school to be a mechanic, I'd like a second opinion on if I should replace the timing chains now or if it'll be OK to wait. I know many of you on here have well over 100k on your Ds, have you all replaced your timing chains and would you recommend I do this now? Thanks!

 

[tomk]

Don't change the timing chains unless they need changing (or you're in there for other reasons.)

Unlike a timing belt, timing chains don't have scheduled maintenance. It's also extremely rare for a timing chain to fail without warning. The reason for scheduled timing belt replacements is that a timing belt usually fails by breaking without warning, leaving you stranded and possibly damaging the engine.

 

[RennGent]

Thanks tomk. What would be the warning signs for a timing chain failure?

 

[tomk]

They usually get pretty noisy and sometimes they'll throw a code because the PCM detects timing slop.

 

[Big Al]

+296K on my OEM timing chain so far.

I have recently been considering replacing it simply because 300K is a LOT of wear for a chain/sprocket setup. Not really noisy yet and no codes, but I'm starting to get a few minor symptoms that "might" indicate a bit of timing slop.

 

[IndyDurango]

+296K on my OEM timing chain so far.

I have recently been considering replacing it simply because 300K is a LOT of wear for a chain/sprocket setup. Not really noisy yet and no codes, but I'm starting to get a few minor symptoms that "might" indicate a bit of timing slop.

Same concerns and thoughts here Big Al. I'm thinking once the waterpump poops out, I'll do the combo at that time. My original pump went out around 60k and was replaced at the dealer.

In regards to the timing chain/sprocket/etc, based on the life we're all getting out of them, Dodge certainly made an excellent timing setup in the 5.Xs.

Of course the alternative if a failure occurs prior to proactive action isn't pleasant.

What are the early tell signs?

IndyDurango

 

[RennGent]

I have a 4.7L engine, can anyone post the mileage they have on their timing chain for a 4.7? I don't know how different it's than the 5.x but I know the 5.x is a very different engine in other respects.

 

[greendurango]

My chain/tensioners started acting up very early, mine was really worn on a new jasper engine with about 25k miles on it. I'd recommend changing it if you're gonna keep the D. the sprockets on mine were in great shape and there's lots of plastic guides in there so, if money is tight, you could go with just the chains, guides and tensioners and save about $150.

 

[Ssneed8269]

As far as the balancer, I don't remember if it's a keyed pulley or pressed on?? If it's keyed, a standard 3 jaw puller will work fine, even using 2 pry bars will work. If it's pressed on, you'll need a special 3 jaw puller that has a rod that goes into the crank after you remove the center bolt and locks onto the puller so you can remove it.

As far as the timing marks, I take the front cover off and put the crank bolt back in. The chains should have timing marks on them and I just line all the marks up and then take the chains and guides off.

I am reusing my timing chains after replacing oil pump my chains don't have marked links. I need to know the number of links between the double marked link and single marked link on left and right cam chains