This thread is my attempt to document the install of a Gen 5 Whipple 3.0L, twin screw, positive displacement (PD) supercharger on our 2023 Durango R/T Tow & Go.
The goal here was to increase the power level of the vehicle up to (or over) an SRT 392 while maintaining driveability and without increasing the noise level of the vehicle. Hence the choice to go with a supercharger.
(Jump to post #291 for final dyno tune results)
(Jump to post #312 for the Mighty Mouse gen 6 catch can install)
I opted to do the install myself as this is my wife’s daily driver, and I couldn’t afford for it to be at a shop for 1 – 2 weeks. Plus, doing the install myself allowed me to learn every aspect of the system so I can maintain and troubleshoot things in the future if/when there are issues.
![Image]()
For details on the decision making process, and other options considered … you can read my other thread here: $10k to bring R/T TnG up to (or over) 392 SRT Power Levels
Planning & Materials
For materials, here is what I ended up buying to complete this job:
The Whipple install guide does a decent job in outlining the tools and materials required, and I’ve attached the document to this post. The guide is specific for Jeep Grand Cherokee and Durango R/T, which meant there were some differences I encountered due to a T&G having the SRT front fascia and ducting. If I were to do this again, I would ask Whipple to provide me both the R/T and the SRT install guides, and also ask them if there are different Intercooler brackets for the SRT vs the R/T. If so, I’d want them to include the SRT brackets instead.
I ended up taking advantage of the Whipple black Friday sale and got 15% off the supercharger kit. I also had Whipple remove their RTD tuning solution from the package since I purchased a full HP Tuners setup myself. This reduced the cost by another $250.
For the HP Tuners setup, they will provide the PCM unlock service for free if you purchase the MPVI3 and 6 credits on the same order. Just add everything to the cart and when you check out, the cost for the unlock service will show $0 on the invoice.
![Image]()
Here is the total cost, including the tools I had to buy:
![Image]()
I could have paid Whipple $250 extra for an RTD tuning solution and not spent $735 with HP Tuners directly. But I paid the extra $485 so I could tune things myself in the future, or use any custom tuner I want by bringing them my interface and only paying them for their time & expertise.
The RTD solution does allow Whipple to tune your vehicle, and includes a PCM unlock … but, you are restricted to only loading Whipple’s tunes. If you go for this and want to use a custom tuner in the future, you will need to pay for additional credits for that tuner to be able to license your PCM and/or TCM. I basically wanted the full solution to have options in the future.
The Whipple kit is delivered in two large boxes, which are heavy! One box contains the supercharger itself ..
![Image]()
And the 2nd box contains everything else ..
![Image]()
For the install, I decided to deviate a bit from the Whipple guide. I broke this into two phases with phase 1 addressing all the peripherals which require the front fascia to be removed and phase 2 addressing the supercharger. This meant I jumped around the install guide quite a bit.
Phase 1 – Peripherals Install
As stated, this phase addressed the peripherals … so the front mount intercooler “air to fluid” heat exchanger, the intercooler fluid pump, the intercooler hoses, the MSD fuel pump controller, and all the wiring for the intercooler pump and fuel pump controller.
So I set up my working parts/tools table, and got to work.
![Image]()
I started by removing the front fascia (see attached PDF for the procedure). When I removed it, the grille separated from the lower part for some reason. I imagine it may not have been fully clipped in from the factory, but was easy to remedy. When reinstalling the fascia, it’s much easier to do when these two pieces are clipped together before putting back on the body.
![Image]()
I started by installing the brackets for the heat exchanger. To make room for these, you have to relocate the horns. The instructions are not very clear in a lot of places, this being one of them. It tells you to use the relocation brackets for a Durango, but doesn’t give a pic. So I grabbed two brackets and relocated the horns, then installed the heat exchanger brackets.
What I learned later on is I ended up grabbing the wrong brackets, so the horns in this picture are not oriented correctly but I didn’t know it at the time.
![Image]()
The goal here was to increase the power level of the vehicle up to (or over) an SRT 392 while maintaining driveability and without increasing the noise level of the vehicle. Hence the choice to go with a supercharger.
(Jump to post #291 for final dyno tune results)
(Jump to post #312 for the Mighty Mouse gen 6 catch can install)
I opted to do the install myself as this is my wife’s daily driver, and I couldn’t afford for it to be at a shop for 1 – 2 weeks. Plus, doing the install myself allowed me to learn every aspect of the system so I can maintain and troubleshoot things in the future if/when there are issues.
For details on the decision making process, and other options considered … you can read my other thread here: $10k to bring R/T TnG up to (or over) 392 SRT Power Levels
Planning & Materials
For materials, here is what I ended up buying to complete this job:
- Whipple 3.0L Supercharger Kit for a Durango R/T
- This kit included 16 NGK 5107 spark plugs
- This kit also included an HP Tuners Smart Access Cable for Stellantis vehicles
- Spare PCM from eBay (Part #: 68434934AC)
- This PCM was from a Jeep Grand Cherokee (with Hemi). I used several Mopar direct parts sites to verify compatibility of the PCM part number with our vehicle, to ensure it would work before buying.
- HP Tuners MPVI3 interface
- HP Tuners PCM Unlock Service
- HP Tuners universal creditsfor registering the engine PCM as well as the transmission TCM
- 6 credits needed – 2 for engine and 4 for transmission
- 4 Extra ¼” Cobalt M42 Drill bits
- Cutting oil
- Mopar Coolant
- 3 bottles of Redline Water Wetter
- Distilled Water (from local grocery store)
- Green LocTite
- Spark Plug gapping tool 1 & tool 2
- Right angle drill
The Whipple install guide does a decent job in outlining the tools and materials required, and I’ve attached the document to this post. The guide is specific for Jeep Grand Cherokee and Durango R/T, which meant there were some differences I encountered due to a T&G having the SRT front fascia and ducting. If I were to do this again, I would ask Whipple to provide me both the R/T and the SRT install guides, and also ask them if there are different Intercooler brackets for the SRT vs the R/T. If so, I’d want them to include the SRT brackets instead.
I ended up taking advantage of the Whipple black Friday sale and got 15% off the supercharger kit. I also had Whipple remove their RTD tuning solution from the package since I purchased a full HP Tuners setup myself. This reduced the cost by another $250.
For the HP Tuners setup, they will provide the PCM unlock service for free if you purchase the MPVI3 and 6 credits on the same order. Just add everything to the cart and when you check out, the cost for the unlock service will show $0 on the invoice.
Here is the total cost, including the tools I had to buy:
I could have paid Whipple $250 extra for an RTD tuning solution and not spent $735 with HP Tuners directly. But I paid the extra $485 so I could tune things myself in the future, or use any custom tuner I want by bringing them my interface and only paying them for their time & expertise.
The RTD solution does allow Whipple to tune your vehicle, and includes a PCM unlock … but, you are restricted to only loading Whipple’s tunes. If you go for this and want to use a custom tuner in the future, you will need to pay for additional credits for that tuner to be able to license your PCM and/or TCM. I basically wanted the full solution to have options in the future.
The Whipple kit is delivered in two large boxes, which are heavy! One box contains the supercharger itself ..
And the 2nd box contains everything else ..
For the install, I decided to deviate a bit from the Whipple guide. I broke this into two phases with phase 1 addressing all the peripherals which require the front fascia to be removed and phase 2 addressing the supercharger. This meant I jumped around the install guide quite a bit.
Phase 1 – Peripherals Install
As stated, this phase addressed the peripherals … so the front mount intercooler “air to fluid” heat exchanger, the intercooler fluid pump, the intercooler hoses, the MSD fuel pump controller, and all the wiring for the intercooler pump and fuel pump controller.
So I set up my working parts/tools table, and got to work.
I started by removing the front fascia (see attached PDF for the procedure). When I removed it, the grille separated from the lower part for some reason. I imagine it may not have been fully clipped in from the factory, but was easy to remedy. When reinstalling the fascia, it’s much easier to do when these two pieces are clipped together before putting back on the body.
I started by installing the brackets for the heat exchanger. To make room for these, you have to relocate the horns. The instructions are not very clear in a lot of places, this being one of them. It tells you to use the relocation brackets for a Durango, but doesn’t give a pic. So I grabbed two brackets and relocated the horns, then installed the heat exchanger brackets.
What I learned later on is I ended up grabbing the wrong brackets, so the horns in this picture are not oriented correctly but I didn’t know it at the time.
The way it is driving now, after I learned how to tune it myself, is just about perfect. The start up, idle, part throttle, and full throttle driving manners are really, really smooth. It feels like a factory Hellcat in how the throttle reacts and how it goes in and out of boost. Very OEM driving experience now, just with 190 extra horses 
