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I’ve only had my used one since the end of March the first month it was fine my Volta stayed consistent at 14.5 now my voltage is continuously dropping . I have already been towed off the highway once my car stared slowing on its own and sounded bad and the engine light came on however the dealership found nothing wrong that the code reader didn’t even show a history of my light coming on . My battery now drops In to the 12.0 range while in motion but the dealership nor my husband can get it to duplicate it only does it for me and I feel stupid however driving to work yesterday the car was jerking me all around and my power/ speed drops on its own it doesn’t do it all the time but it does it has anyone has this happen I mean it dropped into the 11.0 Saturday on my way home on a highway no where even for it to do the start stop but weirder yet some times when I’m stoped the voltage is higher then when I drive I know in my gut something isn’t right but the dealership stated the battery and the Alta were where they needed to be I asked it they checked the wires and the pcm I. Which they stated did you have any error messages on your dash I said not that I’m remember they said then it’s not the problem so no we didn’t but this brings me back to why didn’t the code reader pick up that my engine light came on when I had to be towed to me their missing something am I wrong please help like I said I’ve only had the car for two months and it’s been I. The shop most of the time one was my fault though I hit a pole but the others they had to fix other issues
 

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Probably just need a new battery. They only last 3 years-ish. Take it to autozone to have it tested for free. You may have 2 batteries a smaller & larger. The small one powers the car when auto stop/start is enabled to save fuel. You can just disable that via the radio until you get this sorted.



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That is hard to read all in one breath....... I hate cell phones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Probably just need a new battery. They only last 3 years-ish. Take it to autozone to have it tested for free. You may have 2 batteries a smaller & larger. The small one powers the car when auto stop/start is enabled to save fuel. You can just disable that via the radio until you get this sorted.



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The dealership said they tested my battery and that it was putting out the right voltage it’s under warranty I don’t want to pay for a part whe I paid for the extended warranty they initially thought it was the alternator yesterday and said it wasn’t when I called today that it was running fine so I’m not sure what’s causing the problem
 

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The dealership said they tested my battery and that it was putting out the right voltage it’s under warranty I don’t want to pay for a part whe I paid for the extended warranty they initially thought it was the alternator yesterday and said it wasn’t when I called today that it was running fine so I’m not sure what’s causing the problem
Don’t it crank a little more than normal when starting it? I don’t think a battery is covered under warranty. Go to another dealer to get a 2nd opinion then (or Autozone).


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Battery voltage should be whatever the charging voltage is when the engine is running. A voltage reading on a battery, only tells part of the story. The other part, is whether it can maintain proper voltage and output current for the specified amount of time under load. The PCM controls alternator output. The issue may be there. If all the dealer rube did a was a voltage test, you need to find a competent dealer.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don’t it crank a little more than normal when starting it? I don’t think a battery is covered under warranty. Go to another dealer to get a 2nd opinion then (or Autozone).


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No cranking problem car starts fine it starts acting up after it’s been running a while like on my way to work or to family about 30 minutes or so
 

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First off I’d give it to your husband to drive, I wouldn’t let my wife drive an unsafe vehicle. Second, I’d turn on every electrical do dad it has to put a massive load on 5he system to see what happens
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I get it back from the dealership I’ll try overloading it husband did drive it a short distance said it was normal by short I me a ten min drive not sure why it only does it for me car must hate me
 

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First off I’d give it to your husband to drive, I wouldn’t let my wife drive an unsafe vehicle. Second, I’d turn on every electrical do dad it has to put a massive load on 5he system to see what happens
Why kill the husband who may be a terrible frantic driver compared to the OP?

I would suggest to the OP is to take a snap shot/video of the voltage level while driving. (have a passenger take it)
You need proof to stick it to the man (or dealer LOL)
Undeniable proof makes all the difference in the world with dealers as well as a possible lemon law action.
Dealers don't want to waste time on warranty work because mfg don't easily pay for it.
Show proof and it helps the process along.
 

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Battery voltage should be whatever the charging voltage is when the engine is running. A voltage reading on a battery, only tells part of the story. The other part, is whether it can maintain proper voltage and output current for the specified amount of time under load. The PCM controls alternator output. The issue may be there. If all the dealer rube did a was a voltage test, you need to find a competent dealer.
^This^

Battery is only used to start a vehicle, after that all power comes from the alternator, including charging the battery.

In a battery test, the process (in very short form) charges the battery for a timed length, then the system watches for voltage drop, if it drops too fast or past a certain point then it fails.

Like others have said, have someone video the voltage while you are driving, turn things on and off, demand the system to account for the current draws and watch the voltage. If the computer is working properly to the alternator then the voltage should stay at or around 14.3V.

I've driven with an alternator that was failing before (long ass 8hr drive) its not fun, but yes the voltage would jump up, then slowly drop, then kick up, etc, etc.

My vote is something with the charging system........not the battery.
 

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I’ve only had my used one since the end of March the first month it was fine my Volta stayed consistent at 14.5 now my voltage is continuously dropping . I have already been towed off the highway once my car stared slowing on its own and sounded bad and the engine light came on however the dealership found nothing wrong that the code reader didn’t even show a history of my light coming on . My battery now drops In to the 12.0 range while in motion but the dealership nor my husband can get it to duplicate it only does it for me and I feel stupid however driving to work yesterday the car was jerking me all around and my power/ speed drops on its own it doesn’t do it all the time but it does it has anyone has this happen I mean it dropped into the 11.0 Saturday on my way home on a highway no where even for it to do the start stop but weirder yet some times when I’m stoped the voltage is higher then when I drive I know in my gut something isn’t right but the dealership stated the battery and the Alta were where they needed to be I asked it they checked the wires and the pcm I. Which they stated did you have any error messages on your dash I said not that I’m remember they said then it’s not the problem so no we didn’t but this brings me back to why didn’t the code reader pick up that my engine light came on when I had to be towed to me their missing something am I wrong please help like I said I’ve only had the car for two months and it’s been I. The shop most of the time one was my fault though I hit a pole but the others they had to fix other issues
Hi Slbergman87,
Sorry to hear of the trouble you’re experiencing. If you decide to address this concern with your certified Dodge dealer again, please feel free to send us a private message. We would be happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Rob
Dodge Cares
 

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^This^

Battery is only used to start a vehicle, after that all power comes from the alternator, including charging the battery.

In a battery test, the process (in very short form) charges the battery for a timed length, then the system watches for voltage drop, if it drops too fast or past a certain point then it fails.

Like others have said, have someone video the voltage while you are driving, turn things on and off, demand the system to account for the current draws and watch the voltage. If the computer is working properly to the alternator then the voltage should stay at or around 14.3V.

I've driven with an alternator that was failing before (long ass 8hr drive) its not fun, but yes the voltage would jump up, then slowly drop, then kick up, etc, etc.

My vote is something with the charging system........not the battery.
I agree! But then again, the Durango gremlins come out in force as the battery ages...
 

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I’ve only had my used one since the end of March the first month it was fine my Volta stayed consistent at 14.5 now my voltage is continuously dropping . I have already been towed off the highway once my car stared slowing on its own and sounded bad and the engine light came on however the dealership found nothing wrong that the code reader didn’t even show a history of my light coming on . My battery now drops In to the 12.0 range while in motion but the dealership nor my husband can get it to duplicate it only does it for me and I feel stupid however driving to work yesterday the car was jerking me all around and my power/ speed drops on its own it doesn’t do it all the time but it does it has anyone has this happen I mean it dropped into the 11.0 Saturday on my way home on a highway no where even for it to do the start stop but weirder yet some times when I’m stoped the voltage is higher then when I drive I know in my gut something isn’t right but the dealership stated the battery and the Alta were where they needed to be I asked it they checked the wires and the pcm I. Which they stated did you have any error messages on your dash I said not that I’m remember they said then it’s not the problem so no we didn’t but this brings me back to why didn’t the code reader pick up that my engine light came on when I had to be towed to me their missing something am I wrong please help like I said I’ve only had the car for two months and it’s been I. The shop most of the time one was my fault though I hit a pole but the others they had to fix other issues
If the battery voltage drops while the vehicle is running it is not the battery, it is the charging system.
 

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I have a 2021 SXT so not sure any difference to 2019. I had brought mine in for what sounded like a air intake or exhaust manifold leak. Loud sometimes at 3500 rpm plus, dealer found nothing. I did tell them my voltage ranges from 12.5 to 14.4 on the gauge. He said per the technician the alternator has a clutch and will turn on/off as the electrical load increases. Also said there was issues with the alternator on the 3.6 engines that they have had to replace them. Bring it to another dealer.
 

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I’ve only had my used one since the end of March the first month it was fine my Volta stayed consistent at 14.5 now my voltage is continuously dropping . I have already been towed off the highway once my car stared slowing on its own and sounded bad and the engine light came on however the dealership found nothing wrong that the code reader didn’t even show a history of my light coming on . My battery now drops In to the 12.0 range while in motion but the dealership nor my husband can get it to duplicate it only does it for me and I feel stupid however driving to work yesterday the car was jerking me all around and my power/ speed drops on its own it doesn’t do it all the time but it does it has anyone has this happen I mean it dropped into the 11.0 Saturday on my way home on a highway no where even for it to do the start stop but weirder yet some times when I’m stoped the voltage is higher then when I drive I know in my gut something isn’t right but the dealership stated the battery and the Alta were where they needed to be I asked it they checked the wires and the pcm I. Which they stated did you have any error messages on your dash I said not that I’m remember they said then it’s not the problem so no we didn’t but this brings me back to why didn’t the code reader pick up that my engine light came on when I had to be towed to me their missing something am I wrong please help like I said I’ve only had the car for two months and it’s been I. The shop most of the time one was my fault though I hit a pole but the others they had to fix other issues
Slbergman87-Have the Dealer check the negative battery cable connection under the passenger seat. I had a 2017 R/T with the negative cable post was stripped from the factory causing the cable connection to shake loose from time to time. My gauges would go crazy while driving and the passenger window would roll down on it's own. Found arc burn marks in the batter compartment around the frame post that the cable bolts too.
 

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I have a 2021 SXT so not sure any difference to 2019. I had brought mine in for what sounded like a air intake or exhaust manifold leak. Loud sometimes at 3500 rpm plus, dealer found nothing. I did tell them my voltage ranges from 12.5 to 14.4 on the gauge. He said per the technician the alternator has a clutch and will turn on/off as the electrical load increases. Also said there was issues with the alternator on the 3.6 engines that they have had to replace them. Bring it to another dealer.
Sorry what? The alternator clutch........what kinda crack smokin, trailer trash, useless tit information is this dealer trying to pass off?

115757


thats a 5.7 alternator.......don't see anything looking like a clutch on that pully. AC yes, alternators no.....

Time for a new dealership.
 

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Sorry what? The alternator clutch........what kinda crack smokin, trailer trash, useless tit information is this dealer trying to pass off?

View attachment 115757

thats a 5.7 alternator.......don't see anything looking like a clutch on that pully. AC yes, alternators no.....

Time for a new dealership.
The alternator does have a clutch, but it's not used like the AC clutch. The clutch does not shut the alternator off to control the voltage. The clutch is to control shock and vibrations, generally during deceleration. It's a one way clutch.

1949 International KB2, 302/T5
1968 Dodge Dart GTS, 340/727
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T "SRT Design"
2016 Dodge Durango Limited
 

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I’ve only had my used one since the end of March the first month it was fine my Volta stayed consistent at 14.5 now my voltage is continuously dropping . I have already been towed off the highway once my car stared slowing on its own and sounded bad and the engine light came on however the dealership found nothing wrong that the code reader didn’t even show a history of my light coming on . My battery now drops In to the 12.0 range while in motion but the dealership nor my husband can get it to duplicate it only does it for me and I feel stupid however driving to work yesterday the car was jerking me all around and my power/ speed drops on its own it doesn’t do it all the time but it does it has anyone has this happen I mean it dropped into the 11.0 Saturday on my way home on a highway no where even for it to do the start stop but weirder yet some times when I’m stoped the voltage is higher then when I drive I know in my gut something isn’t right but the dealership stated the battery and the Alta were where they needed to be I asked it they checked the wires and the pcm I. Which they stated did you have any error messages on your dash I said not that I’m remember they said then it’s not the problem so no we didn’t but this brings me back to why didn’t the code reader pick up that my engine light came on when I had to be towed to me their missing something am I wrong please help like I said I’ve only had the car for two months and it’s been I. The shop most of the time one was my fault though I hit a pole but the others they had to fix other issues
Try googling the issue. It may show someone else with the problem.
 
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