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We recently had a problem with our 2018 R/T. I was driving along going about 30mph and the car just suddenly turned off. I coasted over to the side of the road and put the car into park and restarted it after a couple of tries. It ran for about 30 seconds then turned off again. All kinds of warning lights showed up on the dash. I restarted it again and it ran for about a minute then died again. Finally was able to make to a parking lot, called AAA and had it towed to a dealer. Check engine light stayed on while I was driving it. After towing car to dealer, they couldn't duplicate the problem the next day. No code, no nothing. They tried for 3 days to duplicate the issue but no luck. I picked up the car today and drove it home no problem except it said "key fob battery low". Is it possible that that was causing the issue all along?
 

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No...that should not keep the engine from running. Could be fuel pump...they can sometimes act up before quitting for good...or maybe its the security system?
Its tough when its an intermittent issue.
 

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2016 Durango R/T Arizona
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There should have been a code for the fuel pump I would think or at least for fuel starvation or a lean condition. I wonder if they are snowing you on about not finding a code.
 

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Have the battery load tested, and if it comes back less than 100%, replace it.

Don
 

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Problem Codes are stored and logged.... they should be able to find the codes.. Don’t trust them! I would not accept vehicle back until they show me up hats the problem and that it was rectified. With all that being said I think it’s your fuel pump malfunctioning, not sure what else would make the car cut off. That or the alternator.


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Sounds very similar to the issues people were having years ago..I remember my 2011 Durango did this regularly, and never threw a code. Ended up being the fuel pump relay.
 

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2013 Durango Crew-Hemi-Leather Seats-Bought New-Garage Kept, Dealer Maintained
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We recently had a problem with our 2018 R/T. I was driving along going about 30mph and the car just suddenly turned off. I coasted over to the side of the road and put the car into park and restarted it after a couple of tries. It ran for about 30 seconds then turned off again. All kinds of warning lights showed up on the dash. I restarted it again and it ran for about a minute then died again. Finally was able to make to a parking lot, called AAA and had it towed to a dealer. Check engine light stayed on while I was driving it. After towing car to dealer, they couldn't duplicate the problem the next day. No code, no nothing. They tried for 3 days to duplicate the issue but no luck. I picked up the car today and drove it home no problem except it said "key fob battery low". Is it possible that that was causing the issue all along?
I’ve had this same issue with my ‘13 Crew Hemi. Did a lot of reading and determined it was a faulty fuel pump relay in the TIPM. I would hope that problem got fixed in the 5 years between our vehicles, but maybe not. My ‘13 has a standing recall for the relay, which means FCA may have to repair mine again. As mentioned above, it’s either dropping fuel or ignition. My suggestion is to see if your vehicle has a recall for the relay.

Edit: It seems there’s a recall for the power train controller on your vehicle that gives your symptoms. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram/Fiat recall, Powertrain - The Car Guide
 

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2013 Durango R/T 5.7 - Black w/blackout package
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Didn't FCA get rid of the TIPM internal fuel pump relay issues some time after the 2013 model run?

I have seen where folks have had their vehicles just die randomly while driving, but all my research showed it was the FCA DD's and JGC's from like 2011-2013 mostly. I thought they fixed all that stuff with the later models well before the 2018 run.
 

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Didn't FCA get rid of the TIPM internal fuel pump relay issues some time after the 2013 model run?

I have seen where folks have had their vehicles just die randomly while driving, but all my research showed it was the FCA DD's and JGC's from like 2011-2013 mostly. I thought they fixed all that stuff with the later models well before the 2018 run.
I have to believe you are correct. The issue was/is that FCA didn't want to replace a $1200.00 TIPM on half a million vehicles and convinced the NHTSA they could fix it with a jumper that had a new relay soldered into it. NHTSA agreed to the fix, but since the jumper relay can fail, as well, the NHTSA considered it a "temporary fix", so when any of those vehicles have the issue, whether the TIPM relay, or the jumper relay, FCA must fix it again . . . forever. Again, I believe subsequent models were exempt from the issue, but I don't know for certain. The OP's model has a recall for the 'drivetrain controller' that yields very similar symptoms. Hope he can get a resolution soon.
 

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NHTSA agreed to the fix, but since the jumper relay can fail, as well, the NHTSA considered it a "temporary fix", so when any of those vehicles have the issue, whether the TIPM relay, or the jumper relay, FCA must fix it again . . . forever.
My external ("jumper") relay just crapped out on me for the first time since I have owned it from 40K miles back in 2016. Mine got the first factory recall external relay added. I just bought another relay to match, popped it on and ever since no issues starting...…….until that one again fails, of which I have two (2) waiting on the shelf to save the day again.

Through all of my research when I was trying to diagnose my "no-start" issues (mine didn't die while driving thank the Lord), I did see where some folks had issues with their modules under the start/run button and it did have something to do with the remote start function and/or key fob. I believe one of the folks replaced that module under the dash and it corrected all of their issues.

These vehicles are finicky. One thing out of whack in a circuit and the whole truck goes nutso sometimes.
 
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These vehicles are finicky. One thing out of whack in a circuit and the whole truck goes nutso sometimes.
All vehicles are. 🥴 I believe one of the issues is that most mechanics simply don’t know/understand the technology that’s incorporated into vehicles manufactured these days. That’s not a slam! It’s a tall order to ask someone to get trained in transmissions and computer sciences at the same time.
 

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All vehicles are. 🥴 I believe one of the issues is that most mechanics simply don’t know/understand the technology that’s incorporated into vehicles manufactured these days. That’s not a slam! It’s a tall order to ask someone to get trained in transmissions and computer sciences at the same time.
No joke there......FACT! All of this "convenience" crap they put on cars these days is just another reason for something to break or make the vehicle freak out. I just love getting in my 1987 Buick and not caring about whether the display will work or if the passenger window will roll down randomly and all on it's own. That car has about 4 idiot lights and that's it. Simple and anxiety-reducing.

Don't get me wrong, the safety inventions over the years are amazing and prove that things can be made better and safer. But do I really need a volume control on my steering wheel located about 6 inches from the actual knob on the radio? Nope...…….and if that thing breaks I'll be furious! :) :) :)
 
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I took my 2011 R/T in for quitting while driving. They could not duplicate it and told me it was ready to pick up. Went in, took care of the paper work and went out to go home. It would not start, they pushed it into the bay and hooked it up. While trying to start it, it showed no codes. It would just crank till it timed out. They told me nothing was wrong with it (because the computer showed nothing wrong) we got into a heated argument and then I asked does it run? They said no. I said if it does not start then something is wrong, no matter what the computer says. I said an engine needs fuel, timing(spark) and air to run. You have ASE certified mechanics, find out which one it is missing. After about 20 min of sitting there they tried it again and it started. I took it home and ordered a few of the relays from Amazon and keep one in my glove box. I have never been back to that dealer, nor will I ever go. I can verify that no codes were shown while this was happing, I was standing over the guys shoulder watching. I was more upset that nobody cared because the computer showed nothing wrong.
 

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2013 Durango R/T 5.7 - Black w/blackout package
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Shelby - same thing with mine, and I'm sure most or all of the others. No codes. It just won't start because it's not getting the power through the relay. I won't go back to the dealer either, unless absolutely handcuffed into it.
 

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Not sure if you guys have heard of the car doctor ron ananian - I love his podcast and he often talks about how current mechanics don’t know how to troubleshoot anything without having a screen in front of them. I almost called him when dodge couldnt figure out my issue after 3 repairs!

 

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I have a 2000 5.9l, 145K and that is the same issue I was having with mine last year. No lights, no codes, just shut off at any speed like the key was shut off, any type of terrain; seemed to occur about 20 mins after starting when it was hot. Even when we had it hooked up when it would run and let it die, still no codes. Eventually I noticed a No Bus message on the odometer, meaning there was no communication with the computer. I finally changed out the PCM and, knock on wood, no issues since. Not sure if they changed the layout on the newer models and hopefully fixed this issue; seems to be more focused on the 1st gens. My pcm is located on passenger side by the washer fluid reservoir.
 

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No joke there......FACT! All of this "convenience" crap they put on cars these days is just another reason for something to break or make the vehicle freak out. I just love getting in my 1987 Buick and not caring about whether the display will work or if the passenger window will roll down randomly and all on it's own. That car has about 4 idiot lights and that's it. Simple and anxiety-reducing.

Don't get me wrong, the safety inventions over the years are amazing and prove that things can be made better and safer. But do I really need a volume control on my steering wheel located about 6 inches from the actual knob on the radio? Nope...…….and if that thing breaks I'll be furious! :) :) :)
I hope that Buick is a GN or even better a GNX?
 

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