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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a low miles 2018 DD R/T a couple weeks ago. It does not have the factory tow package. The dealership advertised it as having the tow package and the salesman was pretty surprised when I showed him that it did not. The salesman offered to have a hitch installed, but when quizzed on his definition of a towing package, it was clear that they were just going to slap a crappy hitch on without consideration of the 7-pin wiring harness (by far the more difficult portion of the towing package install). Not wanting to be unhappy with the work, I negotiated a price decrease so that I could do it myself with the RIGHT parts.

I found this site while researching the level of complexity in installing a hitch/7-pin wiring/brake controller. I did not have a harness tucked near the spare tire, but do have the brake controller socket mounted above the parking brake under the dash.

I installed everything this past weekend. This is not intended as a how-to, but I wanted to highlight what I bought, what was missing from my kit, and add clarity to a few areas where the instructions were unclear.

PRO TIP: Get a thorough underbody wash before you do this so you don't have mud, dirt, and salt raining down in your eyes while working under the vehicle.

What I bought:

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Draw-Tite Class III/IV (factory similar) hitch from Walmart.com. etrailer had it listed but it was backordered out several weeks. WalMart shipped right away. The hitch comes with all mounting hardware required including the plastic rivets that secure your bumper at the wheel wells:
LINK: Draw Tite #76196

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Tekonsha 7-Wire Custom Fit Trailer Harness from etrailer.com. It too was backordered but shipped out 5 days after ordering
LINK: Tekonsha #TK22113

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Prodigy P3 Brake Controller from etrailer.com
LINK: Prodigy P3

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Things you will also need to buy:
  • Bracket to attach the 7-pin connector to the bumper. I got one from the towing section at Tractor Supply. You should be able to get this from your favorite big box store or online as well. The holes in the bracket I bought didn't match up to the supplied connector in the Tekonsha kit, so I clamped the bracket to the 7-pin receptacle and drilled 4 of the holes through the connector using the outboard most holes in the bracket as drill guides. It's not ideal, but should work fine. The mount holes in the bracket lined up nicely with the holes in the mounting tab on the hitch.
  • Extra blue cable splice as the Tekonsha kit, although advertised as a splice-free kit, requires you to splice to the backup light circuit at the very back of your headliner and to the brake controller signal wire at the passenger front wheel well. The kit comes with one, when you actually need two. More on this later as the instructions are very unclear on these two important splices...
  • Heat shrink tubing in various sizes up to 3/8" ID. An assortment from Harbor Freight or similare should do, and is handy to have around anyway.
  • 3M dual lock velcro to mount your brake controller if you don't want to drill holes in your vehicle's interior to mount it.
  • Plastic rivet tool. I bought this one on Amazon that came with an assortment of rivets. This is important as you may need more than the four plastic rivets that come with the hitch and is nice to have should I ever have to replace more of these rivets as they seem to be used elsewhere on the vehicle.

More in the next post. But I need to get back to work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So here's the 2nd part.

The Hitch Install:
Removal of the bumper cover was going fine until I realized that I had taken portions of the bumper mount bracket with the bumper cover rather than the bumper cover releasing from them, on both sides. :eek:

So over to Amazon to order both of those. 55079112AD (left) and 55079113AE (right). I was able to securely reattach the bumper cover in the meantime, but will replace these when time permits. And yes, I had removed the screw on each side that goes into the end of each of these at the wheel well. They just didn't want to let go. The one on the right even ripped the square expanding anchor out of the sheetmetal. Guess I'd better start eating 2 eggs every morning instead of 3.

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The hitch went on easily enough in place of the bumper crash bar. The hitch came with fish wires to pull the hardware through. Easy peasy. Lowering your spare is critical. Dropping the exhaust isn't necessary so long as you have a shallow 3/4" socket to tighten and torque the down-hanging nuts next to the tail pipes.

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If you reach this point and are going to run wiring, do yourself a favor and do not put anything back together at this point. Oh, and clear the rest of your day, cuz the wiring is going to be the fun part. I was able to get to this point in less than an hour. It helps a lot to have the rear up on ramps just to give yourself some space.

Wiring install in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
3rd Part

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T

NOTE: The vehicle wiring harness changed for 2019+ model years and will require different connection points for the brake controller signal. Do some research!

So with the hitch complete, it was time to move onto wiring. I hung the control module from the hitch while I got everything sorted out and planned my wiring runs. I pulled the D-pillar garnishes, garnish at the top of the hatch where it meets the headlinder, and the cargo compartment & cover. The instructions say you need to remove the interior panel on the driver side of the hatch, but I was able to get by without doing that. Note: If you do not and will not ever need reverse lights on your towed trailer, you can skip the wire run to the top of the hatch entirely (along with pulling those garnishes and the cargo compartment).

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This part is fairly straightforward, but presents some gray areas. I removed both tail lights and made the inline connections between them and the vehicle body harness and reinstalled the lights. The instructions tell you to route the blue wire through the body grommet and into the cargo area, and up to the top of the hatch (this is the reverse light circuit). It was unclear to me what path this wire should take as the body grommet is sealed and there's another layer of sheetmetal to go through before you get into the cargo compartment. I could have seen where the body harness routes and follow the same path, but I couldn't get the panel off the driver's side at the hatch and was worried I'd break something trying to force it. So here's what I did.

I pulled the grommet on the left rear quarter panel and poked a hole in it with an awl. I then ran the blue wire through it. Now how to get through the 2nd layer of sheetmetal? I looked and looked with a flashlight and eventually a borescope trying to find the natural path, then gave up. So I pulled the driver's side louvered vent. The securing clips on the back side of mine inverted and deformed to the point they wouldn't hold the vent tight anymore. More on that in a few. My DD had a sealed black plastic bag full of foam bits or something tucked in here for sound deadening. I carefully slipped it out the vent hole without damage.

I ran to the hardware store and got a tiny rubber grommet sized for a 1/4" drilled hole. Behind the louvered vent you can see the back side of a christmas tree fastener that holds the body harness from inside the cargo compartment. To see this from inside the cargo compartment, you have to pull the plastic tub compartment on the driver's side. Push outboard on the inboard edge and lift and it will pop right out. I drilled a 1/4" hole about 2" up from that body harness fastener, well clear of the body harness. Don't want to put a drill bit through that! I then installed the grommet and fished the blue wire through. I used a 3" length of utility wire to fish down from the top of the driver's side panel and pulled the blue wire up and through. I found it useful to bend over the end of the utility wire as it was wanting to snag on the shredded foam glued to the inside of the panel for sound deadening. Make sure to run this wire so it won't interfere with the airbag at the top of the D-pillar.

Here's where things get goofy with the instructions. You'll see elseswhere that people have been having trouble figuring out which wire to tap into for the reverse lights. The instructions say tap into the white wire with the yellow stripe. I see a white wire with a brown stripe, a white wire with an orange stripe, and a YELLOW wire with a WHITE stripe. Hmmm. I will interrogate these wires with a test light when I can round up a helper to put the vehicle in reverse while I test. For now I folded over the end of the blue wire and shrink-tubed the end so it won't touch anything. I made sure I have a little extra slack in it, then zip tied it to the existing harness and put all the garnishes back on.

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I then went back to the left side and pulled the slack in the blue wire back through the grommets and zip tied inside the cargo compartment. Then I used some black RTV sealant to put a nice goober all the way around the grommet I installed (including adhesion to the wire) as well as where the blue wire passes through the outer grommet. When I went to reinstall the vent, I realized that I had damaged the clips that secure it. It installed and wasn't going to fall out, but the rubber weatherstripping on the outside was no longer making contact with the body. So off it came and I put a 1/4" bead of the RTV on the weatherstripping and stuck it back in place. The RTV was sticky enough to hold it until it cured.

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I then started finding a good location for the module. It's placement is limited by the length of the harness that goes to your 7-pin socket and the ground wire. I found that if I used the existing nut just above the driver side muffler, I could situate the box right on top of the hitch tube and still have plenty of length to get to my 7-pin socket. I used two star washers from my stock (1 on either side of the eye terminal, and cranked the nut down. I used my multimeter to make sure that I had low resistance between the eye terminal and another grounding point on the chassis. One might want to completely coat this connection with RTV or dielectric grease to prevent ground issues in the future.

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I put the module as far to the right as the ground cable length would allow, then moved it to the left slightly so the ground cable had a tiny amount of slack. I cleaned the mounting surface and the hitch tube at that area, and applied the double face foam tape that came with the wiring kit. Since the wire bundles coming out of the module are pretty stiff, I wouldn't rely on the tape alone, so I added some zip ties around the hitch tube for added peace of mind. By their powers combined, like Captain Planet, they should come out on top.


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For added protection, I put some plastic loom on the wires running to the right tail light and secured it with zip ties along the length of the hitch tube, used an existing hole in the sheetmetal at the vertical turn and tied it all the way to the light.

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Then I did some tidying up, clipped my zip tie tails, and had a beer. Next step is to run the harness up to the passenger side under the hood. And that will be in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
4th part

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T - Main wiring harness from hitch to under hood
I began feeding the primary harness forward from the hitch, following existing wiring paths. It is important to keep the harness away from the exhaust and away from any moving parts. I crossed over to the passenger side, right along the front of the spare tire shield where it meets the body. I then fished the harness up against the body and over top of the rear subframe. Once I got to the main body harness ahead of the passenger wheel well, I followed it from there forward. The body harness enters a molded plastic conduit. This conduit has handy tabs with holes every 12" or so, so I used those to secure the tow harness with zip ties.

Once at the front wheel well, I jacked up the right front (with the rear still on ramps) and set it on a jack stand. I removed the right front wheel, drilled out the two plastic rivets where the rocker panel meets the wheel liner, and removed the rear half of the locking push pin fasteners that secure the wheel well liner. I folded the wheel well liner forward for access within the wheel well. And this is where I departed from the instructions. They say to find the green wire at the body harness plug at the back of the wheel well and to use the supplied Scotchlok splice to connect the blue wire that exits the harness prematurely to the green wire. This wire is for actuation of the trailer brakes from your brake controller.

UPDATE 22FEB2021 - The green wire that I needed to connect to was not present at this location.

I am not comfortable using a Scotchlok splice in a relatively inaccessible, uninspectable, and wet/salty location. So instead I traced the green wire to where it enters the fuse box from underneath. I added about 4' of 14ga wire to the blue wire, sealed the connection with shrink tubing and ran both the primary harness and blue wire up through the grommet about halfway up the wheel well and into the engine compartment, under the heater plenum near the positive jumper cable post.

I fed my extended wire through the open port of the wire management block under the rear hood weatherstripping, securing it to the vehicle harness up to the bottom of the fuse box. I removed the fuse box without disconnecting anything by depressing the four tabs and lifting straight up. I had to use a screwdriver to lever the tabs as two would jam after I got the other two released. With the fuse box pulled up and flipped on its side, I could access the wires underneath.

You can see in my photos which wire is the green one that gives the trailer brake signal. VERY IMPORTANT: The green wire will not get a signal from your brake controller until you have had your dealer flash the PCM to enable tow mode. I used a test light to check this wire before I got the PCM flash and it only got a signal after the flash. To test, plug in your brake controller and have somebody hold the manual brake override on the controller or trigger it yourself and hold it in place gently with a clamp. Your brake lights should activate and you'll see 12V on the green wire.


UPDATE 16FEB2021 - So when bringing my new travel trailer home and putting on my right turn signal to enter my driveway, I found out that the green wire also gets a signal when you turn on your right turn signal, which also toggles the trailer brakes on and off. This is very bad. I will investigate this evening and update this post with the correct wire to tap into.

After confirming that the green wire was getting the brake signal from the controller, I trimmed the excess length from my extended wire, and spliced an inch or so below the fuse box input plug. This gives me room to make a repair some day if this ever corrodes or gives me trouble. It is also fairly clean and dry here, unlike in the wheel well. The fact that none of the wires that enter the fuse box are sealed is a good sign that this location should be trouble-free.

Also note that some Durangos without the factory towing package will not have the green wire (or any of the other wires for towing harness) installed. You may not have the requisite fuses in your fuse box either. In my case, fuses and wires were present. If you're missing the wires, you will probably want to go with the MOPAR tow harness which comes with these wires that have ends made to install directly into your fuse box blocks (the green block gets several and the blue block gets one).


UPDATE 22FEB2021: Don't tap into this wire for the trailer brake signal. This is entirely the wrong wire. I tore my DD back apart this weekend and found the mysterious green wire that sends the brake signal from the brake controller. Mine was at the opposite corner of the vehicle. See my update post below.

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I then made the final connections to the positive jumper terminal post directly behind the fuse box. There was a bit of extra length to the harness, so I coiled it up. I attached the fuse blocks (be careful about which is which), heat shrinked the butt connectors that came with them, and attached the ring terminals to the other end. I added heat shrink to the ring terminals for an extra level of moisture intrusion protection to these otherwise unprotected crimp connections. In order to not reset my radio, I ran a jumper wire with alligator clips from the battery lead that connects at the post to the positive input at the fuse box while I removed the positive post and made my connections.

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Don't forget to install your supplied fuses in the trailer wire harness fuse blocks. I don't have my travel trailer yet, so I hooked up my 7-pin tester with the brake controller manually triggered and observed all lights on (except the reverse light, which I have yet to splice). I will figure out which wire above the headliner is correct for the reverse light and update here once I do. In the meantime, I believe I am ready to tow!

Oh, and with this hitch, you can use the regular bumper cover over the hitch without needing the bump-out that is on the DDs with factory towing. It fits a little wonky, but it does go on and looks good once in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bump since this post languished in 'awaiting approval' state for while.
 

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It's odd that I already saw this post about 3 days ago. Or at least the third installment. Maybe it was the first two that were held up? Very nice thorough explanation. Good job!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I need to identify that reverse light wire to tap into yet. Maybe I'll get to that this weekend. I will update when I get that squared away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here's a picture of the installed hitch. I had to bend the bracket that holds the 7-pin trailer receptacle forward so that the connector would clear the non-bump out panel in the bumper.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UPDATE: Do not connect your trailer brake signal wire to the GREEN wire under the fuse panel. See update to post #4 above. I will correct this once I identify the correct wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
5th part

SUCCESS!

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T - Brake controller signal wire (infamous Dark Green wire that people have trouble finding)

So it was clear on my first tow that I connected the 12ga blue wire from the Tekonsha harness to the wrong green wire on my vehicle, causing the trailer brakes to come on full when applying the vehicle brakes and to toggle on and off when I used my right turn signal. I removed my connection I had errantly made to the green wire at the fuse box and patched up the wire where the splice had pierced the insulation.

The 12ga blue wire on the Tekonsha harness carries the variable voltage from your controller to the 7-pin plug, and on to your trailer brakes.

I tore apare the vehicle this weekend and solved the mystery of the dark green (DG) wire.

First off, the instructions supplied with the harness say this:
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Here is a photo from another forum member showing the gray plug in the right front wheel well with the dark green wire entering it. This is the one the Tekonsha harness is intended to connect to:

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However, my 2018 DD R/T had no gray plug in this area. Only the black one you see above.

I tore apart the driver footwell area so I could chase the wires from the brake controller and see where they go. I don't have a photo, but the wires (including the DG in question) from the brake controller socket under the dash enter a bundle and run under the carpet, toward the rocker panel, and straight back, INSIDE the vehicle. Hmmmm...

I removed the rear cargo compartment and all trim on the driver's side. The main panel on the side would be much easer to manage and fully remove if you remove the 3rd row seats. I did not do that and instead had to fight it all the way since it jams against the seat once you get it loose.

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After I got it loose, I went to the driver rear door and started looking for wires. There is a huge bundle running to the rear of the vehicle, and a fat solid green wire is part of that bundle. Could it be? BINGO! (Note there is another green wire running next to it, but it has a red or brown stripe. You want the solid green wire.)

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With the test light connected, my Prodigy P3 immediately recognized that it was connected to a 'trailer' and stopped showing the 'No Trailer Connected' warning. Manually actuating the override lever slowly made my test light smoothly ramp up from nothing to a bright light. We've got proportional control, baby!

I went to the left rear and started looking at where that green wire might terminate. I finally found it, terminating in a gray body connector in front of the driver side tail light. Another quick check with the test light confirmed that this was, indeed, the droid I've been looking for.

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So now what? I have a wire, inside the vehicle, at the left rear that I need to connect to a wire from the Tekonsha harness that I've terminated under the hood at the fuse panel. I saw that I had two options.

  • Abandon the factory green wire and route my underhood 12ga wire back into the body somewhere and make a splice to the green wire where the brake controller plugs in. This will require some careful routing to get the wire from the passenger side to the driver side, piercing the body somewhere, and making a splice in a fairly inaccessible location in the driver footwell under the dash.
  • Abandon the blue wire (to which I had already spliced an extra length of black wire) that is built into the Tekonsha harness and make a connection through the body at the left rear of the vehicle. This would require removal of the bumper cover again, piercing the body with another wire, cutting and splicing into the green wire where it enters the connector in a fairly inaccessible location, and splicing the other end into the blue wire a few feet into the Tekonsha harness.
Both options are crummy, but I opted for the 2nd one since I had yet to install my replacement bumper brackets that got broken during the original installation and have my new ones on hand.

So off with the bumper cover again. I couldn't get the vent panel back out since I had done such a good job of securing it with RTV back in part 3. It would have been nice to be able to get it out to drill my 2nd hole as it allows easy access. Instead I had to wrestle the large driver side trim panel to sneak my cordless drill in there. I popped a new 1/4" hole, installed a grommet, and fished a 14 ga wire through. I know the 14ga wire is smaller than the 12ga blue wire on the Tekonsha harness, but the green wire feeding the whole works is only 14 ga, so I should be good.

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I removed the rubber grommet on the exterior, poked a hole in it with my test light, and fished the wire through it as well.

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Hit my pic limit. More in the next post!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
6th part

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T - Brake controller signal wire (infamous Dark Green wire that people have trouble finding)

I opened the Tekonsha harness right below this point, squinted my eyes, and clipped the 12ga blue wire in half. I made a solder connection here to the end that runs back to the 7-pin plug and used shrink tube since it will be exposed to the elements. I shrink tubed the other end of the blue wire and pinched the end tight while it was still hot to protect this wire in case I should need it someday. It is basically a dead line from here to under my fuse box at this point.

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I sealed both new body perforations with black RTV. On the inside, I clipped the green wire and used a crimp butt splice here since I had very little room to work and didn't want to be dripping melted solder on my amp/other wires.

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I tested the 7-pin with my tester and all looks great! I didn't bother to connect the reverse light wire at the top of the hatch since my trailer doesn't have back up lights. I'll do that someday, but this should be good to go for now. I installed my replacement bumper mount brackets and put everything back together. I hooked up my travel trailer and everything looks good; with the brake controller now recognizing that it is connected to a trailer. As soon as the snow melts, I'll drag the trailer out and do a tow test.

That should be it, and I hope this write up helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I took my camper on a tow over the weekend and was able to play with the brake controller. After setting the max brake output to the trailer, I excercised the system in a few panic braking stops on an empty highway. All is working as it should!
 

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3rd Part

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T
So with the hitch complete, it was time to move onto wiring. I hung the control module from the hitch while I got everything sorted out and planned my wiring runs. I pulled the D-pillar garnishes, garnish at the top of the hatch where it meets the headlinder, and the cargo compartment & cover. The instructions say you need to remove the interior panel on the driver side of the hatch, but I was able to get by without doing that. Note: If you do not and will not ever need reverse lights on your towed trailer, you can skip the wire run to the top of the hatch entirely (along with pulling those garnishes and the cargo compartment).

View attachment 113377

This part is fairly straightforward, but presents some gray areas. I removed both tail lights and made the inline connections between them and the vehicle body harness and reinstalled the lights. The instructions tell you to route the blue wire through the body grommet and into the cargo area, and up to the top of the hatch (this is the reverse light circuit). It was unclear to me what path this wire should take as the body grommet is sealed and there's another layer of sheetmetal to go through before you get into the cargo compartment. I could have seen where the body harness routes and follow the same path, but I couldn't get the panel off the driver's side at the hatch and was worried I'd break something trying to force it. So here's what I did.

I pulled the grommet on the left rear quarter panel and poked a hole in it with an awl. I then ran the blue wire through it. Now how to get through the 2nd layer of sheetmetal? I looked and looked with a flashlight and eventually a borescope trying to find the natural path, then gave up. So I pulled the driver's side louvered vent. The securing clips on the back side of mine inverted and deformed to the point they wouldn't hold the vent tight anymore. More on that in a few. My DD had a sealed black plastic bag full of foam bits or something tucked in here for sound deadening. I carefully slipped it out the vent hole without damage.

I ran to the hardware store and got a tiny rubber grommet sized for a 1/4" drilled hole. Behind the louvered vent you can see the back side of a christmas tree fastener that holds the body harness from inside the cargo compartment. To see this from inside the cargo compartment, you have to pull the plastic tub compartment on the driver's side. Push outboard on the inboard edge and lift and it will pop right out. I drilled a 1/4" hole about 2" up from that body harness fastener, well clear of the body harness. Don't want to put a drill bit through that! I then installed the grommet and fished the blue wire through. I used a 3" length of utility wire to fish down from the top of the driver's side panel and pulled the blue wire up and through. I found it useful to bend over the end of the utility wire as it was wanting to snag on the shredded foam glued to the inside of the panel for sound deadening. Make sure to run this wire so it won't interfere with the airbag at the top of the D-pillar.

Here's where things get goofy with the instructions. You'll see elseswhere that people have been having trouble figuring out which wire to tap into for the reverse lights. The instructions say tap into the white wire with the yellow stripe. I see a white wire with a brown stripe, a white wire with an orange stripe, and a YELLOW wire with a WHITE stripe. Hmmm. I will interrogate these wires with a test light when I can round up a helper to put the vehicle in reverse while I test. For now I folded over the end of the blue wire and shrink-tubed the end so it won't touch anything. I made sure I have a little extra slack in it, then zip tied it to the existing harness and put all the garnishes back on.

View attachment 113378

I then went back to the left side and pulled the slack in the blue wire back through the grommets and zip tied inside the cargo compartment. Then I used some black RTV sealant to put a nice goober all the way around the grommet I installed (including adhesion to the wire) as well as where the blue wire passes through the outer grommet. When I went to reinstall the vent, I realized that I had damaged the clips that secure it. It installed and wasn't going to fall out, but the rubber weatherstripping on the outside was no longer making contact with the body. So off it came and I put a 1/4" bead of the RTV on the weatherstripping and stuck it back in place. The RTV was sticky enough to hold it until it cured.

View attachment 113379

I then started finding a good location for the module. It's placement is limited by the length of the harness that goes to your 7-pin socket and the ground wire. I found that if I used the existing nut just above the driver side muffler, I could situate the box right on top of the hitch tube and still have plenty of length to get to my 7-pin socket. I used two star washers from my stock (1 on either side of the eye terminal, and cranked the nut down. I used my multimeter to make sure that I had low resistance between the eye terminal and another grounding point on the chassis. One might want to completely coat this connection with RTV or dielectric grease to prevent ground issues in the future.

View attachment 113380

I put the module as far to the right as the ground cable length would allow, then moved it to the left slightly so the ground cable had a tiny amount of slack. I cleaned the mounting surface and the hitch tube at that area, and applied the double face foam tape that came with the wiring kit. Since the wire bundles coming out of the module are pretty stiff, I wouldn't rely on the tape alone, so I added some zip ties around the hitch tube for added peace of mind. By their powers combined, like Captain Planet, they should come out on top.


View attachment 113381

For added protection, I put some plastic loom on the wires running to the right tail light and secured it with zip ties along the length of the hitch tube, used an existing hole in the sheetmetal at the vertical turn and tied it all the way to the light.

View attachment 113382


View attachment 113383

Then I did some tidying up, clipped my zip tie tails, and had a beer. Next step is to run the harness up to the passenger side under the hood. And that will be in the next post.
The white wire with yellow stripe can be located on the passenger side harness entering the hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The white wire with yellow stripe can be located on the passenger side harness entering the hatch.
Yeah, I looked at that bundle and there's no white wire with a yellow stripe. I don't need reverse lights on my TT, so no worries.
 

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6th part

Tekonsha 7-pin Wiring Harness for non-factory tow package equipped DD R/T - Brake controller signal wire (infamous Dark Green wire that people have trouble finding)

I opened the Tekonsha harness right below this point, squinted my eyes, and clipped the 12ga blue wire in half. I made a solder connection here to the end that runs back to the 7-pin plug and used shrink tube since it will be exposed to the elements. I shrink tubed the other end of the blue wire and pinched the end tight while it was still hot to protect this wire in case I should need it someday. It is basically a dead line from here to under my fuse box at this point.

View attachment 113741


I sealed both new body perforations with black RTV. On the inside, I clipped the green wire and used a crimp butt splice here since I had very little room to work and didn't want to be dripping melted solder on my amp/other wires.

View attachment 113743

I tested the 7-pin with my tester and all looks great! I didn't bother to connect the reverse light wire at the top of the hatch since my trailer doesn't have back up lights. I'll do that someday, but this should be good to go for now. I installed my replacement bumper mount brackets and put everything back together. I hooked up my travel trailer and everything looks good; with the brake controller now recognizing that it is connected to a trailer. As soon as the snow melts, I'll drag the trailer out and do a tow test.

That should be it, and I hope this write up helps someone else.
Urbish,

I would like to sum up what I just read as I am now about to wire in my harnesses on my Durango. Let me know if I have anything wrong or made bad assumptions:

1). If I plug my brake controller into grey harness plug under the left dashboard, I should have power to the controller.

2). Without doing anything else, the blue output wire from the controller should have full continuity to the green wire behind the drivers side taillight.

3). Is that green wire/connector behind the tail light INSIDE the body of the vehicle behind the inside LR quarter panel? Or outside behind taillight but on the inside the bumper/facia panel that had to come off to install the hitch? (My bumper mount bracket also broke on the driver's side, that's for the Amazon link). The panel is back on, except for the rivets.

TY
 

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Urbish,

I would like to sum up what I just read as I am now about to wire in my harnesses on my Durango. Let me know if I have anything wrong or made bad assumptions:

1). If I plug my brake controller into grey harness plug under the left dashboard, I should have power to the controller.

2). Without doing anything else, the blue output wire from the controller should have full continuity to the green wire behind the drivers side taillight.

3). Is that green wire/connector behind the tail light INSIDE the body of the vehicle behind the inside LR quarter panel? Or outside behind taillight but on the inside the bumper/facia panel that had to come off to install the hitch? (My bumper mount bracket also broke on the driver's side, that's for the Amazon link). The panel is back on, except for the rivets.

TY
In regards to the green wire it is located inside the vehicle on the driver's side by the tail light. I personally pulled the third row seating out and folded the second row forward and completely removed the LR plastics this made quick work of routing wires and tapping into that green wire. If you follow his guide the job is super easy and is what I used to wire my durango. If you want reverse lights on my 2018 durango citadel the wire was located in the right harness going into the rear hatch just drop down the headliner down enough to access the harness and pull that bundle apart and it was in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
1). If I plug my brake controller into grey harness plug under the left dashboard, I should have power to the controller.
Yes. That was the case for me, even before I had the dealership activate the tow mode.

2). Without doing anything else, the blue output wire from the controller should have full continuity to the green wire behind the drivers side taillight.
Yes, that was my experience. Keep in mind that your green wire may be found inside the driver front wheel well OR inside the left rear quarter panel.

3). Is that green wire/connector behind the tail light INSIDE the body of the vehicle behind the inside LR quarter panel? Or outside behind taillight but on the inside the bumper/facia panel that had to come off to install the hitch? (My bumper mount bracket also broke on the driver's side, that's for the Amazon link). The panel is back on, except for the rivets.
My connector was inside the body and accessed by removal of the interior trim and panels from the left side of rear cargo area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In regards to the green wire it is located inside the vehicle on the driver's side by the tail light. I personally pulled the third row seating out and folded the second row forward and completely removed the LR plastics this made quick work of routing wires and tapping into that green wire. If you follow his guide the job is super easy and is what I used to wire my durango. If you want reverse lights on my 2018 durango citadel the wire was located in the right harness going into the rear hatch just drop down the headliner down enough to access the harness and pull that bundle apart and it was in there.
I am glad to hear of someone benefitting from my write-up. I was beginning to wonder if it was worth the time and effort to document. (y)(y)
 

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So, I have a 2019 GT Plus, pretty loaded up but no tow package. I pulled apart the LR interior quarter panel trim only to discover that the grey plug did not have the green wire (coming from the brake controller harness). I then went under the drivers side dash only to find out there is no plug for the brake controller either. Which makes sense if there was no line in the back. I wish I had checked that first instead of wasting 2 hours pulling apart the whole back half of my vehicle. So, not all Durango’s are created equal. Now I have to figure out how to wire in the brake controller harness. The brake pedal switch is definitely not a 12V old fashion, it’s using small signal sense wires in it.
 
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