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2016 R/T Odd Overheating Issue

1K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  iamangieford  
#1 ·
Yeah, so the title is pretty self-explanatory. Here are the details:

A mechanic performed all repairs.

About a year ago, I had some overheating issues, so the water pump and thermostat were replaced. A couple of months later, the thermostat failed again and had to be replaced.

A few months after that, I noticed the cooling fans were always running at full speed when I parked and shut the truck off, but it wasn’t overheating. I checked the radiator and found it full of orange sludge—almost like clay.

The mechanic flushed the radiator because, apparently, my truck is a princess and needs all the expensive OEM parts, as the aftermarket ones they ordered wouldn't fit. This also meant waiting a few more days, but I needed my truck back ASAP for an out-of-town work trip. The radiator hoses were also replaced, and everything seemed to be working fine.

Fast forward about six months, and now things are getting weird.

I noticed the truck overheating, got it inspected, and the mechanic found nothing wrong—he couldn’t duplicate the issue. So I started investigating and realized it only overheats when hauling a trailer or accelerating. At idle and while cruising at highway speeds, everything is fine.

The mechanic then replaced the radiator and radiator fan/fan assembly. After $1,500 in parts, I still have the overheating issue.

Here’s the weird part:

  • Driving down the highway at 60 mph in 8th gear—no overheating. RPMs are in the normal range (1,500–1,600).
  • Drop it down to 5th gear manually, increasing RPMs to around 3,000, and it starts overheating.
It seems like the engine only overheats when it's spinning above 3,000 RPM.

Any help would be appreciated. A friend suggested there might still be air trapped in the system, so I’m going to try bleeding it again, as I know these can be a PITA.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Your coolant must be purple/pink OAT and nothing else. Mixing coolants will create the sludge you found. We always recommend factory sensors and parts when available. Someone else here had the same fan and overheating at low speed issue. I don't remember what his resolution was but you can search for it. What's happening, as you probably know, the high speed is pushing plenty of air through the radiator to cool the engine but the fan isn't doing that at low speed. It's entirely possible that your fans aren't running fast enough in general which causes the overheat at lower speeds when the hot engine should still be calling for max fan speed. You should have a fan module mounted to the fan bracket. If you don't then they put the wrong fans in it. You also want to ensure they put in the heavy duty cooling radiator and not a V6 radiator or a non-heavy duty from a prior year. It could also be a faulty temp sensor isn't triggering the fan high speed.
 
#4 ·
I have seen head gasket failures cause. The fire ring on the gasket fails in a place which connects it to a water jacket. Under normal normal driving the cooling system can maintain as there is not a ton of heat entering through the failure. When you are on the throttle hard the exhaust gases overpower the ability of the cooling system. It basically creates high pressure steam. This can be easily tested with a “sniffer” here is an example. Good luck.
 
#5 ·
Jason:
Hopefully the current T stat is oem. When the rpms go up, so does the heat generated by the engine. For some reason, the cooling system can handle the heat when it's being driven gently, but not when you are working it harder.

Making sure that the radiator fan(s) are operating correctly is a box that should be checked asap.

Don
 
#8 ·
Jason:
As shelbymopar89 says, sorry to hear the news, but at least you know now.

A couple of thoughts. Unless your budget is really tight, I'd have them do both sides. How many miles on it currently?
If you are anywhere near or over 100k, I'd have them eyeball the lifters since the heads will be off anyway. If they look good, leave them be. If not, throw in a new oem set while they are accessible.

Don
 
#10 ·
Ok.
At that juncture, assuming the current lifters are original, if you plan to hang onto it, I'd probably do the lifters anyway just because you are right there. Going back in 6 months later paying the same labor again would suck.

Don