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2012 Dodge Durango RT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have a 2012 Durango RT that I purchased and quickly (like a week later) it developed the Hemi tick. So rather than cam and lifter that, I have purchased a 392 out of a 2012 SRT8 Chrysler 300 to put in it. I have the old 5.7 out and the transmission and torque converter mounted back up to the 6.4. I also have my short runner lock out that I purchased from MMX, on the back of the intake manifold...I just got my Jeep SRT8 Exhaust manifolds today so I can start moving forward with getting this engine back in the Durango. I am doing this project on my own and in my own garage so it is taking me a little time however I have been pretty motivated to get this up and running. Appreciate any suggestions or comments.
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2016 Durango R/T Arizona
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What and why did you weld onto the flywheel?
 
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2012 Dodge Durango RT
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What and why did you weld onto the flywheel?
Lol,, there is a pilot bushing that is in the 6.4l cars... that the torque converter fits into that bushing has to be removed for the Durango torque converter and transmission to mount up too.
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the one without the bushing is the old 5.7,the one with is my 6.4L
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That pilot bushing has been the worse part of this process up until this point. I tried everything to get it out... pullers.. the grease trick.. the bread trick... nothing worked I even bought a 1 inch pipe tap to try that but it didn’t work either... I ended up buying a small flux welder for about $150 bucks and that worked.... along with a slide hammer
 

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Sawzall? I'm being semi serious. Cut through it almost all the way and then tap it out with a cold chisel.
 

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2012 Dodge Durango RT
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sawzall? I'm being semi serious. Cut through it almost all the way and then tap it out with a cold chisel.
Well that welder and the slide hammer worked... I could not think of a way to grind that sucker down to hit it with a chisel,, just couldn’t get to it with the Sawzall.. plus I didn’t want to damage the crank.. so kinda had to be careful..
 

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That pilot bushing has been the worse part of this process up until this point. I tried everything to get it out... pullers.. the grease trick.. the bread trick... nothing worked I even bought a 1 inch pipe tap to try that but it didn’t work either... I ended up buying a small flux welder for about $150 bucks and that worked.... along with a slide hammer
I gotta ask.... what is the "bread trick"?
 
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2012 Dodge Durango RT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ha,,, well it’s the hillbilly trick that actually works if your getting out a pilot BEARING as in if you have a standard shift vehicle That has a needle bearing in the crank shaft,, and in some cases it will work with a bushing... fill the hole full of bread then use a socket or something that Fits perfect in the hole and beat it in there with a hammer

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Exhaust manifolds are on and this thing is almost ready to drop back in. Note ( DO NOT put the starter and motor mounts back on until AFTER you put the exhaust manifolds on) because even with the engine out of the vehicle this costed me time. Bottom bolts are very hard to get to.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Once I get this engine in I am having trouble deciding on an exhaust system for it... I think I am gonna go with stainless works cat back system.. I really wanted flowmaster but I dont think they make one in 3 inch for the Durango.. I looked for 2018+ SRT Durango flowmaster system and can’t find one.. At least if they do I can’t find it.. I suppose I could take it to an exhaust shop and have theM bend up a system with flowmasters for it.. However if I buy the stainless works cat back I can just bolt it up myself.
 

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2015 Dodge Durango RT AWD
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I vote for custom exhaust. You've come this far, right?

I went with a kooks 3" mustang h pipe, flowmaster outlaws, and srt tailpipes. I don't have a pipe bender so cutting and welding helped get around that. Just an idea

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good idea, thanks.. I am gonna kick it around for a few. I am pretty excited to get this 392 engine back in there this weekend... then that exhaust will be my only real issue.
 

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You have a very interesting way of lifting a motor and trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well that second strap helps me keep the tail of the transmission high enough where I could get it in and not grab any power steering lines or other lines whiles pushing it back in place ... it actually worked out well. I could raise and lower the transmission without raising and lowering the engine.
 

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Yes, pretty smart. I presume the yellow one is to avoid trying to lift from the plastic intake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Correct, I have it wrapped All the way around the bottom of the motor then back up the other side... I just removed a coil pack from each side so I didn’t damage those... I just wanted it secure since the only help I had was my son and I surely didn’t want it getting loose. Oh and I definitely didn’t want to damage my new headlights.. ha
 
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