Sounds like sludge. Have you seen under the valve covers? I was just saying the fix to someone else. You better look to make sure it is basically clean. If it is not, you gotta get rid of the worst of it first.

Here's saying it is not totally full of caramel which might get dislodged in massive chunks.

Then idle it for 20 minutes with a litre of oil - thick truck oil is best - and 5 litres of diesel fuel with a clean oil filter. Just be careful during the process your pickup doesn't block. If the oil pressure light comes on or it sounds starved, turn it off.

But there is no danger apart from that. I do it all the time. I would happily go outside and do it to my pride and joy right now.

Don't keep driving flat out cause in addition to sludge on sensors and solenoids and lifters not working right, galleries might be blocked and when you give it the gas some parts are not getting a good bath.

Sometimes the pickup is heaps blocked but somehow not setting off the oil pressure warning light. Have you seen how fine the mesh is on these? Unbelievable. Clean pickup, basically clean motor, new oil pump is a good start before the flush.

 

Disclaimer: I don't know boo about the hybrid motors. I just have experience with them as run on gas.

But I am saying a tick on a cold start that goes away as the oil warms up is a sign of poor flow.

Starts with a tick on a cold start or when you give it the gas and it needs more oil. Graduates to knocks, misfires, chugging like a tractor and your warning light finally coming. Then you're screwed.

Blocked pick-up from crap in the motor building up over time and/or sludging is generally the root cause.

 

Why pull the heads to replace the cam? Should be no need for that unless you want to verify the tops of the pistons, ring land ridges and valves.
Does your engine have VVT because the cam phaser which is hydraulically controlled could be acting up especially if sludge such as @wannaeatyourbrains mentioned could be the cause.
Or maybe a bad solenoid valve that controls the VVT cam phaser? Not sure as I do not know 2009 as far as all the fancy gizmachis Dodge added to the Hemi.

 

Yeah pull sensors and solenoids out and manually clean is good as part of the cleanup. And the bloody PCV can sometimes be the root cause if it is blocked or there is no catch can, or a major contributor. Hell, I got a catch can but have not put it in yet. Giving me a heart attack now.

I got some good exhibits of motors I repaired and rebuilt lately that were ticking and misfiring and carrying on. I will sort and post later. Full of sludge and/or scale, and that with hair, chewing gum and God knows what else blocking the solenoids and pickup.

 

Are Hemi's even susceptible to sludge like a 4.7 was which was due to its poor oil gallery system. I know the unit was purchased used but I would imagine running the same DINO oil, time and time again for 10k plus could do it.(owner neglect)

 

First exhibit I will show you is under the vave covers of mine when I first bought it and brought it home. Guy said it was ticking, but it ran fine for the test drive. Cause I was gentle. Get to the last roundabout near my place and I gave it some gas. Starts ticking loudly and then oil pressure light comes on. This is why.

I thought here we go, this motor is gone. Stripped it right down, so I could clean it up and see the damage. Don't have any pictures, but inside the sump pan was like bubble tea with burnt toast in it. You wouldn't think it would even run, let alone make it home for an hour from where I bought it. (I just hung the grille and lights on it and put the wheel back on it at night to camouflage it a bit, so the MPs wouldn't go crook at me for fixing it then and there in the car park outside my apartment ha ha.)

I cleaned it all up and put new gaskets and seals in it. Not to the extent of Graman's new heads, but pretty diligently.

Apart from an oil and water pump - the former of which I replaced with a high volume pump and the latter of which was ruined only by that Haynes manual fiasco about the right hand thread I mentioned - I did not have to buy even one new part! After it was cleaned up, I found zero wear in anything! It looked good when I chucked it back together.

But it still ticked so loud on a cold startup and started knocking again when I gave it revs for a bit and it needed oil up the top. There was crust somewhere blocking something still. I ran it with diesel fuel instead of oil for a bit as I say. From then to now, you can't even hear my motor running up the engine bay, startup or otherwise.

I ran it for 1000km on the first oil. Did the diesel flush again. Changed the oil. Now that motor is spotless inside. I have done a couple of thouand kilometres on the most recent oil change, and the oil is just like I put it in there yesterday pretty much. Clear still. No soot on a tissue. I don't even burn one drop.

Maybe Blazz has some smilar issues from, like Vice-White says, owner neglect or just old age. Have a look inside and clean 'er up, I say.

 

First exhibit I will show you is under the vave covers of mine when I first bought it and brought it home. Guy said it was ticking, but it ran fine for the test drive. Cause I was gentle. Get to the last roundabout near my place and I gave it some gas. Starts ticking loudly and then oil pressure light comes on. This is why.

View attachment 130538

I thought here we go, this motor is gone. Stripped it right down, so I could clean it up and see the damage. Don't have any pictures, but inside the sump pan was like bubble tea with burnt toast in it. You wouldn't think it would even run, let alone make it home for an hour from where I bought it. (I just hung the grille and lights on it and put the wheel back on it at night to camouflage it a bit, so the MPs wouldn't go crook at me for fixing it then and there in the car park outside my apartment ha ha.)

View attachment 130539

I cleaned it all up and put new gaskets and seals in it. Not to the extent of Graman's new heads, but pretty diligently.

Apart from an oil and water pump - the former of which I replaced with a high volume pump and the latter of which was ruined only by that Haynes manual fiasco about the right hand thread I mentioned - I did not have to buy even one new part! After it was cleaned up, I found zero wear in anything! It looked good when I chucked it back together.

View attachment 130540

But it still ticked so loud on a cold startup and started knocking again when I gave it revs for a bit and it needed oil up the top. There was crust somewhere blocking something still. I ran it with diesel fuel instead of oil for a bit as I say. From then to now, you can't even hear my motor running up the engine bay, startup or otherwise.

I ran it for 1000km on the first oil. Did the diesel flush again. Changed the oil. Now that motor is spotless inside. I have done a couple of thouand kilometres on the most recent oil change, and the oil is just like I put it in there yesterday pretty much. Clear still. No soot on a tissue. I don't even burn one drop.

Maybe Blazz has some smilar issues from, like Vice-White says, owner neglect or just old age. Have a look inside and clean 'er up, I say.

Never heard of using diesel to run through an engine to clean it. I would be concerned about using it due to the wax content of diesel but what do I know. LOL I would have used transmission fluid 1 quart and 6 quarts of oil. People use Marvel mystery oil but trans ATF fluid is much cheaper. LOL

No matter you did awesome on your ride and proves the damn Hemi is pretty much a rock solid design even running with burnt bubble tea oil.

 

OK I’m having a hard time finding the camshaft for this Durango. (2009 Durango hybrid)
I need a camshaft part number
53022065BE
This I am 95% sure of..
It’s hard.. I’ve been calling around dealers all day. Some of them are more helpful than others but for the most part they make me feel like my questions are wasting their time. I’m looking to spend around $1500 in parts so I don’t see that as a wasted time for them.

Either way, I ended up calling mopar themselves and this guy was more helpful than anyone else i talked to, he gave me the part number that I posted up top and explain to me that the engine in the hybrids were the ATV engine one of three hemi engines available in 2009 Apparently they use a different camshaft for the hybrids.
He also informed me that this camshaft was discontinued in 2019 and there was no one in the country that has it.
Even though the mopar website shows that camshaft part number 53022263AF Will fit my vehicle after talking to the parts guy on the phone he said that the mopar website was wrong.

So I continue to search and I found that summit racing has a camshaft with the part number that ends in BE that I need but it is special order and I wouldn’t be able to get one until February 20. They are literally going to make it.
Before I purchase that I want to try to speak to someone but I have to wait until tomorrow possibly even Monday to be able to talk to somebody on the phone.

I thought that the engine itself was just the basic hemi engine. It’s the transmission that has the electric motors in it, the hybrid computer, and all the wiring and extra hybrid components all plugged into the transmission.
I’ve seen a video that Frank V posted, and in that video they explained how the transmission worked and made a brief description on some small modifications to the engine to improve gas mileage. I guess the camshaft was one of them.

from my research, there is definitely a difference between MDS and non-MDS cams
Also, VVT and CVT makes a difference in the cam.
I believe I have a CVT (cam variable timing), which was introduced in 2009.
I only believe that because I have the oil control valve that is connected to the same wire harness as the MDS solenoids. From my understanding, that is what controls the CVT.

Anyhow, I figured I’d post this as an update maybe someone out there has some connections or works for Dodge that can explain or confirm that the 2009 Dodge Durango hemi hybrid had a camshaft that was unique to just that vehicle. Or possibly another camshaft that will work without programming.

thanks I really appreciate any help you guys offer for me.

 

@LT.Raven used to work for a Dodge dealer in Canada so a PM to him might get you a little help. I can't remember if he has said that he kept some of the parts info from Dodge or that he said he no longer has access to it. I would imagine that you could just swap everything over to a non CVT, non VVT camshaft. Have you looked in the Chiltons manuals from the McDowell Library links on this site? Edit: It just dawned on me that no part numbers are listed there but they do say you have the VVT system in your engine. Here is the link to the site: McDowell County Public Library - Chilton Auto Repair

 

If this helps here is my vin

1D8JB18T89F705417

I will try to contact Raven
I did try contacting Franky V (the guy that worked on the hybrid project)
a few months back, but I never got a reply.

i’m sure I could probably use a different cam but I don’t want to deal with reprogramming.

With the way it switches between gas and electric seamlessly. It’s probably not a good idea to put a performance cam or something other than stock in there.

edit:
just talked to Summit racing. They’re saying the website is also misleading. They cannot get the cam either. Part 53022065BE
They’re saying because moper‘s website says it’s discontinued that they cannot get it which is weird because they are selling it for a MUCH cheaper price. so I assumed they make them or got them from somewhere else other than Mopar

I guess it’s time to work on Plan B. I really didn’t want to have to do an engine swap.
for now, I’m going to keep trying to find this camshaft.
I really like 2gen Durango's,, and this is the coolest and rarest 2ng gen i have, so I will fix it even if it's not worth fixing, to me it is worth it
i have 3 Durango's and a Cadillac XTS. Believe it or not i prefer driving the Durango hybrid over all. and my XTS is NICE.

my XTS:

 

I really love my car too. It is my trusty steed. It gets me through the gorilla swamp every time when that vindictive strumpet on Google location has a Robert Frost moment. 'The woods are lovely, dark and deep...'

What kind of engine in the Cadillac? I looked it up. Seems to be the GM High Feature, or what we call Alloytec in Australia. I had that in my Commodore. Know it well. I much prefer the Durango because it is bigger, has the V8, and doesn't break on the bad roads.

 

I Found A cam!!

 

@ Vice-White:
Just rereading the thread here. Re your post #4, how would one change the cam on the 5.7 w/out head removal? There is no access to the lifters unless the heads are removed?

Don

 

Ya i forgot to ask about that. maybe he is not familiar with the 5.7.
But I believe if you’re just swapping cam for performance, you can do that without removing heads.
In my my case, I definitely need to remove the heads to get to the lifters

 

started tearing it down today.
Cylinder five I believe it’s the intake valve that barely moves.
Probably wondering how I got the vehicle to start with no intake or coil packs I’ll let you guys guess for a little while before I tell ya🤣🤣😂🤯

 

An impact on the crank bolt?

Don

 

Did you just crank it over with the starter? Shouldn't be too taxing on it with no compression in any of the cylinders (assuming you had the plugs pulled).

 

I did not pull the plugs, but there is no gas or coil packs. I did not use any external device. Here's a video I took a few years ago of my 06 Durango. This is what I expected to happen when I cranked it over.
I did not expect it to turn on, and idle.

 

Is it running on one bank? Or running from your electric motor?

 

Yes your right, its running off the hybrid motor. i had to bypass the hybrid cutoff,

 

Update. Still working on it a little bit at a time. I got the hybrid main computer out today which now allows me to get to the passenger side head.

 

Ended up being one non-MDS lifter that seized.

 

Can't press like, cause nobody likes that to happen. What a biznatch. It must have been siezed for ages. Wonder what caused it to sieze up? Ran dry some or faulty part? Was it making noise?

For a couple of days mine was making a shocking rattling noise from I think the lifters on cold start. Passenger side bank. I had only done 4000km on the oil, too. But I suspected blocked oil filter because my engine is still cleaning itself out after the work, and because the noise disappeared as soon as the oil warmed. I changed the oil and oil filter yesterday and that immediately solved it.

They sure as heck don't like any kind of restricted flow.

 

Well, it looks like this engine is toast.
Finally got the remaining parts in today. I was doing some final cleaning on the head, preparing them for a reassemble. When I noticed one of the heads had a triangle shaped hole in an area very close to the combustion chamber that does not belong there. I didn’t notice it at first, but whoever replaced the exhaust manifold gasket must’ve had to drill out one of the broken studs and they drilled way too far on a horrible downward angle.
This completely destroyed, the head and the block.

I can’t believe this engine ran as well as it did in this condition. I just don’t understand how it was possible.

I found another engine, but I’m debating on whether or not I want to go any farther and put more money into it.

 

Oofta. Right in the middle of the fire ring. That really stinks. I feel your pain.

 

blazz:
Sorry to hear this. That just plain sucks!!!!!!!

Don

 

No way. Managed to get both parts of your motor. Those broken manifold bolts come out easy, too. First touch with a left-handed drill bit for every one for me so far. It is still worth fixing, but. A hybrid is legendary.

 

Well, I got good news today. I have a good friend that has a good friend that owns a machine shop dudes 80 years old, but has state of the art equipment, very clean and organized workshop.
He said he’s going to completely fill the hole, and then re-drill out and tap the stud for the manifold and then resurface the head both heads actually.
And the best part is he needs some electronic work done, which is what I specialize in so we’re going to barter