[blazz81]

2006 Durango limited 5.7
P0304..misfire cyl 4
P1414.. reactivation control performance cyl 4

Hello I need help with this one my Durango started running ruff the other day. I scanned and got just the two codes.
I have replaced the MDS solenoid and oil change/flush. I also visually checked the wires going to Mds they looked fine not burnt or anything.

I’m still having the same problem. It’s running on 7 cylinders. With same two codes popping up..
according to my scanner cylinder 4 MDS is activating all the time.
After searching around I can’t find any information other than replacing the solenoid which worked for most but not for me.
Any help would be MUCH appreciated

Thank you..

 

[keegantimber]

Hmm. Very interesting. So the ecm sees the new MDS solenoid as active for cyl 4 and is shutting the fuel off to cyl 4.
Just talking out loud here.....new solenoid did not change the issue...how does the ecm "read" the status of the solenoid?? I don't know?? More for elimination purposes ....I might run a quick compression check on cyl 4? .... Just out of curiosity.
Then maybe disconnect the new MDS solenoid and see how it runs? I know much easier said than done...and it will throw another code? On another thought I believe there is a main connector for all 4 MDS solenoids at the back of the engine which you could maybe disconnect...all 4..which may save you from removing intake ??

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[DuRonbo]

Interesting. Looking at the FSM and causes/solutions for P1414....this appears to be an electrical control problem for the MDS solenoid. The FSM talks about Oil pressure/blocked passages/failed lifter but those would only apply to the MDS not engaging.

Hope it's not a PCM issue. I'll take some pictures later today of the FSM pages for you and post them.

As suggested above...disconnect the main MDS harness and verify none of the MDS solenoids are active. Does your Vident tool allow you to access the PCM and activate MDS solenoids?

 

[blazz81]

I need to redo the compression test after i pickup a new tester I guess... cyl 4 tested 130psi but when i tested cyl 1 and 2 i got 0 psi which is impossible I think I broke my tester somehow or maybe I'm doing something wrong I pulled one spark plug out leaving the other one and cranked.

Im going to see if i can get my hands behind the intake to unplug that main MDS plug.

To give you an update I noticed with the scan tool when I first start the truck the MDS is inactive and fuel injectors are working but the truck is still misfiring, after running for about 30 seconds to 60 seconds the scan tool indicates that the MDS is active and injector is off on cylinder 4 as you see in the pictures I posted.

When this first happened I got the codes and the truck ran rough after setting overnight the next day it was good to go again until I hit about 45-50mph and the MDS kicked in after that it would go back to running rough it's like the MDS is stuck on so if it's not the MDS solenoid what else controls this cylinder shut off I understand oil pressure could be the problem but I also read something about a locking pin does anyone have any knowledge of the workings.

My oil pressure was in the 40's if I remember correctly im going to recheck tomorrow.


DuRonbo..
My first Vident tool did do the activate test but this new one i got dont. Which i just realized.

Also the spark plugs I pulled out of cylinder 4 are black compared to other cylinders all spark plugs were replace about 6 months ago. Here is a picture of them side by side cylinder 4 is the black one cylinder 2 is the other..

The second picture was taken after disassembling the oil filter and running a powerful magnet throw it.

Thanks again for taking your time to help me with this.

 

[blazz81]

Pulled valve cover today on the passenger side everything seems to be moving smoothly valves opening all the same should rule out a cam issue or hydraulic lifter.

I also switched out a coil pack from my other 06 Durango but it did not help any.. I didn’t run it for very long but I’m not getting the P 1414 anymore now I’m getting cylinder 4 misfire and multiple cylinder misfire p0300 and p0304.

i’m going to pull the other valve cover off to confirm that they are all moving smoothly as well to rule out any major engine problems.

 

[keegantimber]

Meant to ask if you had any engine noise. First impression on that black plug... looks like oil ?
Did you have a real good look at valve springs for cyl 4? Some were known to break...not so much your model year from what I remember.

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[Don Fox]

Blazz:
If you have not yet, have the battery properly load tested to rule out any issues there before you go any further. A bad battery can cause all kinds of electrical grief.

Don

 

[blazz81]

how can i post a video? i dont see a way. do i have to link it from youtube?

The battery and alternator are a few months old. its seem strong turning over. ill put it on a charge over night and see if it helps.

Meant to ask if you had any engine noise. First impression on that black plug... looks like oil ?
Did you have a real good look at valve springs for cyl 4? Some were known to break...not so much your model year from what I remember.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Not realy...... i do hear a tick noise some times, it comes and go's (not the exhaust manifold tick my other durango has that tick)
The only thing I could think of is when I changed the spark plugs 6 months ago cyl 4 was carbonated like they are now in the picture. running rich maybe the coil pack going bad. As i type this im realizing i cant remember if i switched the coil after the plugs or b4 hmmm. ill have to back track. valve springs for cyl 4 are definitely good.

 

[blazz81]

New coil new spark plugs ran great better than ever until I hit 55... back to the same MDS stuck active.
I’m getting 150 pounds on cylinder 4 with new compression tester..

 

[DuRonbo]

Did you disconnect the main MDS harness and verify none of the MDS solenoids are active with your Vident?

 

[blazz81]

Did you disconnect the main MDS harness and verify none of the MDS solenoids are active with your Vident?

We’re actually trying to figure out if we can reach that plug or not as we speak.. I may have to pull the intake back off. Took us 2 1/2 hours last time and 2 1/2 hours to put it back on..

I noticed on this last test drive it runs great at first...with me keeping an eye on the computer I noticed that they all activate still running normal but when I go to give it gas they all deactivate like they should.. but starts running rough then the computer indicates that the one cylinder activated by itself as if it’s not fully disengaging it takes a second for the computer to realize it.

If I let it sit for an hour or so it runs great again if I leave tow haul turned on it continues to run great because it will not kick into four-cylinder mode..

 

[DuRonbo]

And now I ask where did you get the MDS solenoid from? Dealer/OEM or something like Dorman?

 

[blazz81]

We got it from Autozone I believe it was the dorman.

Question can I remove the window wiper assembly and have enough room to pull the intake off that way? because the way we did it last time was remove AC compressor and alternator and belt.. We’re in the middle of doing that now this way I’ll have access to the computer as well to check wiring.
Or do I have to remove the compressor and alternator

Edit.. just found the box it is a doorman

 

[DuRonbo]

Here's the Removal procedure for the Intake. Still indicates moving the A/C compressor.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the wiper module (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE - REMOVAL).
3. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components:
² Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
² Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
² Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
² Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
5. Disconnect brake booster hose and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
6. Remove generator and set aside.
Note: It is not necessary to remove lines or remove freon from A/C compressor.
7. Remove air conditioning compressor and set aside..
8. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
9. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in a crisscross pattern starting from the outside bolts and ending at
the middle bolts.
10. Remove intake manifold and IAFM as an assembly.

Might need to bite the bullet and get an OEM MDS solenoid.

 

[DuRonbo]

12 month/12k mile warranty on Mopar parts.

53032152AC - Mopar Parts Giant

www.moparpartsgiant.com

 

[blazz81]

We were able to get the plug off. But still runs rough with it unplugged...It hasn’t sat long enough..
I hooked up the Computer and it shows inactive
Tired he goes active on the one cylinder
So basically it’s doing the same thing with it unplugged I think I’ll have to let it sit for a while.

Maybe the hydraulic lifters not getting enough oil but I don’t understand why letting it sit change that

 

[blazz81]

We were able to get the plug off. But still runs rough with it unplugged...It hasn’t sat long enough..
I hooked up the Computer and it shows inactive
Once I start it it shows active on the one cylinder
So basically it’s doing the same thing with it unplugged I think I’ll have to let it sit for a while.

Maybe the hydraulic lifters not getting enough oil but I don’t understand why letting it sit change that

Maybe I should try a more aggressive flush before I take it back apart..

 

[blazz81]

Clearing the code it now will stay inactive After start up is it safe to drive this way I’m curious to see what it does when I hit 55

 

[blazz81]

OK took it for test drive with the harness unplugged with keeping an eye on the computer everything activate and deactivate just fine.
Truck seems to run fine with the harness unplugged..

How does the system work does the oil pressure keep the valve open in four-cylinder mode so the other cylinders don’t have to fight the compression or closed I would imagine it would keep them open but then again that would destroy the valves if it’s a interference engine

 

[blazz81]

I believe the problem is solved... i’ve been driving around for over an hour and it’s been working as it should..
After unplugging the Harnest and not having any rough engine conditions I decided to put some seafoam in it. After driving around not even a mile I decided to plug the harness back in to allow solenoids to activate with the seafoam running through it.

I don’t know if it was the seafoam or not maybe re-plugging in the Harnest got a better connection I don’t know but I haven’t had a problem since then.
Time will tell if I have any issues I’ll be sure to update them here for anyone in the future that may Google this..

Quick rundown of what was done.
Engine started running rough. with code p0304 and p1414.

Put a bottle of engine flush and did oil change
Switched coil with known working coil
Replace spark plugs.
Replaced MDS solenoid
Compression test
Pulled the valve cover to inspect valve function
Used seafoam in oil.
Unplugged and reattached main harness to MDS solenoids.

thanks for the help guys I was getting ready to pull the intake back off I’m glad I played around with that connector first..